[02tjsport]

for the auto/off/on you would need an "on/off/on" switch. They are hard to find switches that arent huge. At least i had a problem. I think there is an option for on off on with the contura switches.

On/Off/On is actually called SPDT, single pole double throw.
One switch lead is 12v from reverse switch, one is load from the relay and the other is 12v constant so you can flip on whenever.
Up is triggered by the reverse switch, off is off, and down is triggered by the switch

[02tjsport]

Originally Posted by flatlander757

I'd look for the reverse switch wire right at the transmission shifter.

I believe the reverse wire is actually at under the tub at the transmission somewhere. I believe the reverse signal from reverse switch to factory lights is a violet/black stripe wire in the main wire harness for the TJ under the dash.

[flatlander757]

Originally Posted by 02tjsport

I believe the reverse wire is actually at under the tub at the transmission somewhere. I believe the reverse signal from reverse switch to factory lights is a violet/black stripe wire in the main wire harness for the TJ under the dash.

Good to know! Thanks

[sierraclimber1]

I am installing led tail lights that don't come with backup lights. Luckily my roof rack has light tabs on the back so I can mount some reverse lights cleanly.

If I tap into the reverse light wire, what is the max watt lamp you can run before the need to install a relay for more power?

I dont really need it on a seperate switch, I figure most of the time you will need to see back there you will be backing up anyhow. Plus you could always just put the stick in the reverse position to light em up.

[XXRider]

Originally Posted by sierraclimber1

If I tap into the reverse light wire, what is the max watt lamp you can run before the need to install a relay for more power?

Any light the draws more power than factory should be wired to a relay to be safe.

[sierraclimber1]

Ya, I figured...

I am just hoping the reverse wire has some untapped potential!

[base shakers]

i was actually able to tuck the same lights as the OP into the stock tail light housing by completely removing the stock bulb and holder. tight fit, but so far so good. they do get a little toasty in there but since reverse lights aren't on for long it never gets bad. only had to change one bulb in 2.5 years.

[erickpl]

I ran the reverse wire into the relay that I also use via a switch. When I put it in reverse, the circuit flips the relay and they come on.

[4x4grey88]

Originally Posted by bfr

My goal for this upgrade was to safely add 55w lights to the back of the jeep that are operated by both a dash mounted switch and by shifting the transmission into reverse. I had one blank in my factory switch panel, so I chose to use a factory fog light switch to make the install as clean as possible.

Materials:

20ga wire
12ga wire
Solder
12ga ring terminals
20ga ring terminals
12ga female disconnect terminals
20ga female disconnect terminals
20ga wire taps
12ga inline fuse holder
Heatshrink tubing
12v 30A relay
1 factory fog light switch for a 1999 TJ
18-22ga non insulated butt connectors
55w fog lights (H3)
3’ of ¾” angle aluminum
Self tapping sheet metal screws
Diode
Electrical tape

Tools:
13mm wrench
Soldering iron
Plastic spoon
Key ring Swiss Army Knife
Power drill
Wire stripper/crimper
Lug wrench
Multimeter
Assorted nut/screw drivers
picks
1999 TJ FSM
2004 TJ FSM

Step One: Disconnect the negative battery cable

Dash Prep:
1. Remove the trim piece from the top of the dash.
2. Remove the two screws that go from the radio bezel into the dash. (early TJ’s have a third screw behind the ashtray)
3. Remove the radio bezel by pulling out.
4. Remove the four screws that hold the switch panel to the dash.
5. Carefully pull the panel away from the dash.
6. Remove the blank by prying up on the retaining tabs on the top & bottom of the panel. (I found that a pick with a 90 degree bend worked well)


Switch Prep:
A 1999 TJ fog light switch has four pins.
Pin 1=dimmer signal
Pin 2=switch output
Pin 3=12v in
Pin 4=ground

I thought about buying a pigtail for the switch, but they seem to be ridiculously expensive, so I had to come up with another way of connecting the switch. I ended up using 18-22ga non insulated butt connectors to connect 20ga wire to each pin on the switch. I slightly crushed the pin end of the butt connector because the inside diameter of the connectors is a little too large to snugly hold the pin. After altering one end of the connectors to fit the pin, I crimped 20ga wire into the other end and used heat shrink tubing on all the connectors.

Reverse circuit tie-in:
In order for these lights to work as intended I needed to find a wire that puts out 12v when the jeep is in reverse. I could have spliced into the harness near the reverse switch on the transmission or in the monster connector behind the dash on the driver’s side. As luck would have it, jeeps with the compass/temp mirror make finding this circuit simple, as one of the wires in the mirror harness (which is on the dash just under the trim piece) carries the signal from the reverse switch. I tapped this wire and ran a 20ga wire to the wire which connects the switch and the relay. I put a diode in this wire to isolate the signal of the dash mounted switch from the reverse circuit.


Main power wires for lights:
I used 12ga wire to power and ground the lights. I put an inline fuse holder about three inches from the positive terminal of the battery, and then ran the wire across to the driver’s side of the firewall and then through the rubber grommet above the gas pedal. After getting through the firewall I routed the wire to the cavity behind the switch panel (where I put the relay). From the relay I ran the wire along the bottom of the dash (where the glove box hinges) to the side of the tub and then back to the passenger rear corner of the tub.

Light mount:
I used a piece of aluminum angle attached to the stock tire carrier to mount the lights. I look at this as a temporary mounting as I hope to move these lights to a future tire carrier. I put the aluminum as close to the tailgate as possible and then bent it until it “looked right” and mounted the lights at each end.


Connections:
1. Switch pin 1 20ga to O/D harness panel dimmer
2. Switch pin 2 20ga to relay pin 86
3. Switch pin 3 20ga to fused 12v
4. Switch pin 4 20ga to ground

5. Relay pin 86 20ga to Switch pin 2
6. Relay pin 85 20ga to ground
7. Relay pin 30/51 12ga to Battery (fused)
8. Relay pin 87 12ga to + side of lights

9. +side of lights 12ga to Relay pin 87
10. -side of lights 12ga to ground

11. reverse circuit wire 20ga to connection #2 wire

In the end this setup works exactly as I hoped it would. The lights mirror the function of the factory backup lights, and can be turned on with the dash mounted switch.

.............................

[TyJeep]

Originally Posted by jim ellsworth

Very nice set up, thanks for the write up also. Does anyone know the part numbers of the panel switches. My local dealer kills my for big $$$$ for small parts. Or a source on line for the switches? I think it actually gets darker with the factory back up lights. Nice set up.

These are the best switches around. The guy is a jeeper and is the best customer service i've ever had.
https://www.otrattw.com/index.htm

[bfr]

Originally Posted by 4x4grey88

.............................

Did I miss something?

[02tjsport]

X2 two on Otrattw.com
Best customer service ever. Best switches too.

[stunner]

Ok. I have a new thread on this HERE.

But, I've come a long way since last night... LOL.

Now I need some help.

Here is how I have it wired:

Switch:
Pin 1 - Live Wire (dimmer)
Pin 2 - Relay slot 86
Pin 3 - Hot (to battery w/fuse)
Pin 4 - Ground

Relay:
Slot 86 - Pin 2 (switch)
Slot 87 - Lights
Slot 85 - Ground
Slot 30 - Hot (to battery w/fuse)

I'm assuming that a any hot wire will suffice for the 'dimmer' for testing purposes?

Here are my results/problems with this configuration:

Foglight logo is illuminated in off position. When switch is pressed to on position, foglight logo remains illuminated but, green function light does not turn on.
If I disconnect the 'dimmer' wire, the green function light comes on in both the on and off position. Once the 'dimmer' wire is connected, the green light turns off and the logo illuminates.

Please help!

Thanks.

[stunner]

Ok. I figured it all out. I finally got tired of being lazy and just started from scratch...

The whole problem is that the directions at the beginning of this thread are wrong at the switch(pin out is reversed)... and the first diagram in the thread I linked to HERE is wrong at the relay.

So, here is the correct way to wire this:

*(make sure you go by the actual pin numbers which are embedded in the plastic, right above the pins. DO NOT go by other users pictures and schematics as they have their own numbering scheme!)*

Switch
Pin 1 - Ground
Pin 2 - 12v fused
Pin 3 - Slot 86 on Relay
Pin 4 - Dimmer Wire

Relay
Slot 85 - Ground
Slot 86 - Pin 3 on Switch
Slot 87 - Lights
Slot 30 - 12v fused

Wiring your switch/relay in this fashion will give you:
1) No lights/no action on switch when everything is off.
2) When 'Dimmer' is activated(turn on your headlights) and switch is in the off position, only Foglight Logo will illuminate.
3) When Switch is turned on, Green indicator light will illuminate and Foglights will turn on. If the 'Dimmer' was active, then both the Foglight Logo and the Green indicator light will illuminate when the switch is on.

Everything will work as it's supposed to!

[spyder6]

i have mine wired to come on all the time, i used a pair of KC 55watt floods