Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

5.3L Silver Taco'd TJ

54K views 193 replies 29 participants last post by  indirocz28 
#1 ·
The EAGLE HEMI TJ is 95% done so, time to begin planning and sourcing parts for the next conversion.

The orginal jeep that was getting the 5.3 conversion is getting rebuilt to stock and sold. After weighing the options, investment and conditions, the best move was to fix it and sell it to someone who can make it their own.

I stumbled across a 'gotta go get it right now with cash' deal a few weeks ago. I found a 2004 TJ 4.0 Auto that had been taco'd in the front as the PO smacked a pole/stump/immobile object. The engine was good and it still moved under its own power. The body was pretty clean and the interior was all there, just neglected. Both airbags had popped as well.

We took off with some benji's and the trailer. 1 hour later we were loaded and on the way home with it.

I put it out in the back of the lot and started chasing parts for it along with the other 2 TJs. Sourced a grille, both air bags, hood, grille supports,air bag cover for the pass side, still need the drivers 'cover' and a pass fender [which ill just get a new one]. On Friday I was able to pick up a 2004 frame from a JY on the other side of the state, 2.5 hours away. Glad I made the trip, frame looks good and there are some other random jeeps parts Im going back for next week.

The project plan....
-5.3 or 6.0L LS series motor, 4l60e trans, 231c? or 231j t case. 5.3 LS out of a 2008 Silverado 65k on the clock
-SYE kit
-separate trans cross member from skid plate ordered a 2" drop skid
-aluminum radiator with computer controlled electric fan
-in house designed
*RRI motor mounts,
*RRI fuel tank adapter
*RRI fuel system kit
*RRI gauge panel with custom LS gauges
-dumping the TJ ECU, converting TJ fuse block for TJ and LS operations
-full working gauges, no converter boxes etc [speedo,tach etc]
-novak cable shifter
-retain stock TJ auto shifter assembly currently looks like i can get the shift pattern for the GM resolved, under the factory jeep console
-possibly rear 8.8 or d44 depending on best found deal at the time
-1/4" aftermarket skid plate with fabricated oil pan skid of some sort 2" drop ordered

simple suspension...
-long arm [either built in house or collectively sourced] starting with a Zone 4"long arm is on standby as i just found out my mustang popped its head gaskets
-relocate rear shocks
-1" body,
-some type of 34"/35"s on stock 15'sBFG KM2's on vision warrious

The start







The frame is in the shop, it will be slow progress until the Black and Red TJ's are sold.

I have a deal worked out with a supplier for [2] 5.3 and a 6.0 with transmissions. once they arrive, it will be a rock-paper-scissors to see what the jeep gets :thumbsup::hahaha:
 
See less See more
5
#2 ·
stock TJ auto transmission shifter has 1 2 D N R P and a dash mounted OD kill toggle switch

4L60E needs 1 2 3 D N R P...

so some modification to the stock shifter scale and to the mechanism needed.

why not a nice cable shifter from Lokar(Novak) ? will fit nicely with a manual shifter boot.
 
#3 ·
yeah going to take some effort anyway i go with it.

i plan on retaining the stock shifter because i want as much of a stock appearance inside as possible. i want to retain brake interlock features etc as well... i can get away with the 4l60e getting tj #2 for 4l60e [3] and tj #1 for 4l60e [2 and 1] i read and have notes on it in my LS folder, IIRC something in the programming has to be changed. if it proves to be an issue, maybe look for a different gated shifter out of cherokee, liberty etc of some sort.... i do have to reverse the shift direction on the TJ shifter cable as the gm trans works in a flipped pattern then the TJ auto's. theres a bunch of info on another site regarding them as well, just have to know where to look.

got the last few bugs worked out of the Hemi TJ today, got the datalink all working correctly and the brake switch 'circuits' correctly figured out. so this project gets to move up a notch :D

i am off to search down and order some of the pieces for this swap after i jump out of here.

im hoping to hear on the outcome of the first bid request for the new business tomorrow. it would be an awesome start. basic conversion with low material needs. fingers crossed.
 
#4 ·
found an older cherokee shifter with a P-N-R-OD-3-[2-1] bezel. at least the bezel would read correctly. i love ebay!

we power washed the motor and the rest of the frame. hoping to start the teardown by friday, atleast the goal is to have the tub separated and the motor pulled by the end of this weekend. ordering lift parts tomorrow, which will be here friday. also ill get a set of replacement fenders tomorrow as well. i will need them and the grille installed so i can mock up all the accessories, fuse block etc. after all that is set up, ill pull them off and send to paint.

chasing a 5.3/4l60e [4wd] manual transfer case, driveline down right now waiting for a few responses. my buddy has the motor mount bolt pattern in CAD, so now im just messing around with the design for our motor plates.





scrap pile....
 
#5 ·
got the stock mounts cut off the frame today...



remaining fender off and got things prepped for the tub removal..


getting the tub up..... man I really wish that the hoist deal was all worked out!

 
#6 ·
im beat.. and done for the night...




got some quotes on motor packages.. probably pull the trigger Monday.
 
#7 ·
went to the depot today and acquired myself a couple real boards. pair of 4x4's. sooo much better. aslo found my other jack. hmm [2] jacks and a couple of 4x4's.. totally changed the game. got the body up another few inches, put the rear axle on a little dolly and rolled the frame on out from under her. next time, I will pull the top and doors before I start the process.

It appears that this little jeep smacked something while the PO was off road, based on the condition of everything. Inside the wheels was 'caked' with mud, other key places as well.











 
#9 ·
didn't get too much done on this jeep this weekend, we were working on getting the black TJs new front clip installed and engine compartment all back together.

I dropped the gas tank and skid. Had to steal the straps for now for the black TJ. I cleaned 20lbs of mud out of the skid plate and scrubbed down the gas tank in prep for the fuel tank mods.




after...:D

 
#12 ·
today was a busy chase day. went to the west side of the state to grab parts. the yard i got the frame from had a KO'd 2002 Sahara TJ and it had a bunch of 'I need that' parts on it, and some just to have. He gave me a cash price to pull what I wanted. Needless to say, all 3 seats, perfect hood with hinges, auto brake pedal,brake light switch, seat brackets, washer bottle, rad overflow bottle, taillight housings, dash and center dash bezels, 4.0 fan shroud, dash switch panel...

i will be going back next week so i can oversee and bring back my donor motor for this TJ.. 2008 5.3 with 65K on it....

spent a couple hours at my buddy place last night. my CNC guy... gave him a list of parts including LS motor mount plates, some hemi motor plates, couple designs for straps for the RCI fuel cells, some gusset plates that are sweet... and set the ground work for a little bezel i will need.

CHMO.. i got the shifter figured out.. a little fab and maybe some in-expensive trial and error. i spill more later but looks like i will have correct/exact shift pattern, with indicator, and done under 100 with all parts shipped. i will also have neutral safety and reverse light switching incorporated with it. AND NO im not using any B&M Lokar etc parts. as mentioned above, i will most likely need to have kyle cut me up a billet bezel to trim it out.

hmm what do we have inside


taaa daaa!!!


i messed with my fuel tank adapter system yesterday and got it all figured out. the 'patent pending' adapter i designed completely replaces the stock regulator and re-uses all the stock internal fuel pump assembly 'parts'. there is one other company that makes something similar but it uses ring clamps and rubber hoses etc. :thumbdown: the stock fuel presure regulator 'blows off' un-needed fuel, back down into the 'basket. this keeps fuel in the basket and helps keep the pump 'cool.' this 'fuel in the basket' concept is fairly important with using an in tank pump and the 'basket' also acts as a 'baffle' to keep fuel in the pump area in off camber situations.

like some other companies that do conversions suggest... just drop a line in the tank and screw a fuel pump to the frame and ' they do it this way'... when you get sideways, and all your fuel pools at one end of the tank.. you're sucking air... :confused: not good. not to mention, fuel pumps on the rails are noisy. i like the fact that I am reusing as much of the factory pump assembly as possible and retaining those stock features.

ill do a full tech write up from start to finish on the adapter and system in a few days. heres a quick pick of my in tank return parts.. just to keep you guessing.:teehee:
 
#13 ·
...
CHMO.. i got the shifter figured out.. a little fab and maybe some in-expensive trial and error. i spill more later but looks like i will have correct/exact shift pattern, with indicator, and done under 100 with all parts shipped. i will also have neutral safety and reverse light switching incorporated with it. AND NO im not using any B&M Lokar etc parts. as mentioned above, i will most likely need to have kyle cut me up a billet bezel to trim it out.
...
kkewwwwl ... unfortunately around here I do not have the junk yards and the creativity of fabrication available ... so I replaced "brain" by cash ... LOL

Anyway ... I had to do it once for my swap ... whereas you are composing your recipe which you will hopefully repeat many times ;)
 
#14 ·
hell man i understand... i know you have to do what you can how you can over there. sometimes its 'more money than time,' others 'more time than money'.. depends on the day right!!!! im pretty sure i have a solution, its just getting the fit right and what that will take. i have a b/m rachet shifter in my mustang and thats not something i'd want in a jeep LOL...

this shifter thing has become a personal challenge now. I have [2] jeeps that are getting LS setups in them so if i went aftermarket, my costs would be harsh. i want to use parts/replacement parts that are available at any autoparts store, dealer, ebay etc anywhere i can in these builds.

right now i am debating on the following;
[a] throw in the 4" lift and make some adjustable rear uppers.. paid for and straight forward. $100 in heims and tubing
throw in the 4" springs.. get a RC long arm upgrade kit and just put that on, no fab work... $900 cost upgrade
[c] throw in the 4" springs and do a basic in-house LA with increase flex poly link ends.... rear 4 link with triangulated uppers on some kind of truss, 3 link the front with a new pass axle side link tower that accepts 2 5/8" joints. cost... about $650 using 'generic' brackets. all 7 arms will be adjustable. have a little idea for the lower links.

i think i want to see if i can do the long arm for my projected budget. LOL just another challenge.

today i pulled the stock fuel pump assembly... started messing with that but had to leave. when i got back to the shop i decided to keep stripping the old frame to get it done and out of the way.











some cost figures on the board...
replacement frame $750
new fenders $180
hood....$75 score
got my tires lined up, get them next week. 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2's [5] for $1022
wheels.. looking like vision warriors [5] for $410
electric fan/shroud...$120
body lift.. $100
4" lift ...$500
option [c] long arm pieces.... $470

test shifter #1 came in today..$55
 
#15 ·
getting the old frame stripped and chopped up. I kept the back half. not sure what im going to do with it right yet. either keep it as a jig or sell it on CL :D:D







getting things moving on the new frame... 4" lift springs, sway bar links etc are in. the upper links are in just to keep things pinned together. hoping my heim joint kit shows up soon so I can make the upper adjustable links. if I can get the costs right, I will be making more sets. :thumbsup: the front pass UCA mount on the axle is shot, all wallowed out. I have a new UCA axle mount coming and it will change it to be capable to run any 2.0" bushing or heim set up.:thumbsup: my motor mounts are 'in the works' so I just got a set of AA mounts for now. I will use them to line everything up. if I cant get mine cut-out yet then ill run these in this build. :rolleyes:








interior ...NASTY






as it sits right now....


I just got off the phone with my motor guy. looks like its going to be 2500 for the set up, all accessories, modules, wiring, ecu, pedal etc.... going to go get it Tuesday. maybe by next weekend the motor will be in and the chassis ready for its body again.

latest development... I will have [2] 4.0s sitting in the shop shortly. a 97 and the one from the 2004. I called my local machine shop we use for the race engines and got some numbers from him. :rtft::rtft: I have decided that they are going to get torn down, sent to the machine shop and when they get back..... Im building 4.6L strokers out of each one :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
#16 ·
Thats awesome Jim, I love your updates. I wish I could find wrecked wranglers in my area like that. Out of curiosity how much do you pick those up for? You can pm if you dont want to post the number.
 
#18 ·
did a little cleaning when I got back to the shop tonight....


look at the dirt that came out of the carpets...


got to the dash..... took some things off :D



heres a little trick that some of you may not know about... keep all your screws and bolts in one spot. I just punch a little hole in the cardboard then push the screw threw. perfect.
 
#19 ·
the engine that im getting is a 2008 5.3L [confirmed] which leads me into this little side note: the 5.3L that I was sold by the previous yard [that was slotted for the black TJ] was ACTUALLY A 4.8L. the JY guy lied to me. found out when I sold it and the new owner went to program the ECU and it came up 4.8. they scoped the pistons and yep, 4.8. that sucked. if you can verify, do it. the 4.8 5.3 and 6.0s all look identical from the outside. thanks chevy. reminds me of ford's small blocks...260 289 302 351w.. all the same from the outside in stock form.

so yeah, looking to get a '08 5.3L gen 4 engine and 6 speed auto trans,' mated set/complete drop out, clean as can be, and with 65K on it. no core charges etc... includes everything and if they cut one plug/harness the deals off. airbox to oil pan, full front dress to 4wd adapter on the trans. ECU, ECU mount etc... just checked with my contact there and had him verify that it had the correct ECU that can be programmed. I guess there are a few different ECUs in the gen 4's and some cant be flashed yet. he called me back and I'M GOOD TO GO! as it has the correct stamping on it.
 
#21 ·
randon, I've lucked out on the 2 crashed up TJs. I found them on the local CL board and was able to snatch them up.

quick overview of the parts total outside the cost of the jeep...
replacement 2004 TJ frame...................850 including some gas to get it.
4" zone kit......................................... 540
body lift..............................................100
4 hiem set ups for the upper links............85
4 bushing sets for the upper links........... 60
replacement front UCA axle side tower.....40
2 new fenders... my cost..................... 200
hood from JY......................................100
pass air bag.........................................80
pass air bag cover................................15
driver airbag........................................40 [need correct cover for 04 wheel]
new gas tank straps..............................40
motor mounts [if I use them, AA]..........180
2" drop skid........................................140
electric fan set up................................120
crossflow aluminum radiator, 3 core.......220
angle tabs for trans mount.....................20
bushings.............................................40
Camaro headers.................................100
fittings and hoses................................200
custom fuel tank fitting........................[??]
frame mounted regulator/filter kit..........80
rustoleum satin and hammered black.....20

R&D costs
2 different shifter set ups...................100

future costs...
5.3 driveline...................................2500
ecu programing................................150
external trans cooler...........................60
[if] I outboard rear shocks...................160
15x8 wheels....................................400 for [5] shipped
35" BFG KM2's................................1050 for [5]
custom gauges by speed hut.............700
replacement grille............................400
paint match fenders/grille/hood.........300
relays and fuse panels for LS wiring... 50
windshield.......................................100

recovered costs...
sale of trans this weekend...............-375
sale of grill i have............... ...........-250

the 04 take out motor will be donor for 4.6 stroker... I'll list it for $4500 complete with intake when done. golen gets 4200 for the long block only, plus core. so hopefully i can sell it quickly

for reference, current Michigan private sale, clean title listings for 2004 'stock' TJ's are about...9000 to 13000.
 
#22 ·
clint.. yeah that's exactly how the guy told me how to do it... check the piston profile....
 
#23 ·
clint.. do you have any more pics of how/where your trans/skid plate lined up etc... what mounting solution did you use on your trans....
 
#26 ·
mr blaine.... a few different answers to your questions. wow, I would not eliminate the stock basket at all. it serves a very specific purpose as you know. if it was a sedan or flat lander vehicle it would not be as much of an issue.. but we have JEEPs!!!!!

1... the adapter fitting I had made uses all the stock components of the fuel pump assembly. it requires alittle bit of modification to the upper plastic housing once you remove the stock regulator. So, I am using the stock fuel path out of the tank per se', then to a frame mounted regulator/filter on the motors that have 'returnless' fuel rails. (i.e. hemi and new LS series motors). the frame mount regulator is set at 59 psi and has a return port incorporated into its design. I will run a short line back to the tank and connect to a newly installed return fitting. **engines with 'return style fuel rails' get a new 'return line' ran back from the motor to the tank**. on the bottom side of this return fitting, I have the fuel returning into the basket. that takes a minute to get right, as we know, as the basket moves an inch or so up and down...

with the correct fittings, you can connect to the stock fuel lines, however, stock is about 5/16" where 3/8" is preferred for any v8 conversion.

the adapter works in 97-04 fuel tanks. I have a 98 on the bench and the 04 is already re-installed on the poly tank.

2... yes on the ideas. I just sent my cnc guy a drawing. I will see if he can have a part made up in the next day or so. I modified the fuel tank fitting design and it will be just a 'pick up' from the stock basket 'reservoir' if you will.

2A.... the poor mans version for just fuel pick up... or genius depending on which side of the fence your on.... use a bulkhead fitting with mods to the top plate of the assembly. problem is -8 is too small and -10 is too big. this is appears to be the 'cheapest way,' but its actually a pain in the a$$.. and if you don't have all the pieces laying around, it gets costly real quick. potential to crack the top plate housing is heightened as well. this is how and why I came up with the adapter after fiddling on the workbench with the whole pump assembly and my box of race fittings.

mr blaine, if youd like, pm me with an email address I can send you some pics of exactly what I have going on. you being a designer/engineer/crafter and all around master :2thumbsup:, you understand that im still keeping it close right now. I know you understand all that is involved in the design process. once I get it squared up, Im going to do a thread on the part, install and real life performance.

and clint, yes sir you have it. the basket will fill to the same level as the fuel around it. fluid dynamics. and yes..., when the fuel moves and the pressure levels change, the washer drops [gravity and existing fluid pressure in the 'basket]. the washer will stay in the 'closed' position once the levels equalize, as well as if there is less fuel outside the basket. after that it only 'opens' when fuel is pulled through the port by the pump or more fuel goes in the tank! that way there is always fuel in the basket for start up etc. its the same concept as 'sumping and baffling' the fuel tanks in our race cars.
 
#27 ·
#28 ·
#29 ·
finished fuel assembly with patent pending adapter... :D




im going to see if i can get the bend tighter and the return tube higher into the basket.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top