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Jeep Grand Cherokee Mirror - Side ViewJeep Grand Cherokee Header PanelTJ 5.25" Speaker Adapters - NalinMFG

View Poll Results: What do you think?
Like it. 436 42.13%
Awesome wish mine had that. 443 42.80%
You just ruined a perfectly good jeep 69 6.67%
Why would you replace a 2.5 with a 5.0. 2.5 are the best 87 8.41%
Voters: 1035. You may not vote on this poll

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Unread 11-20-2008, 01:11 PM   #151
sourskittle
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First off, this is the shoe I wear while working on the jeep. Bought this set of shoes right after I blew up the 4.0L. I think its a sign that I was supposed to have a 5.0L jeep like 472cid/Amos. This was way before I even knew Amos.



This pic was taken to show the close-ness of the header to the motor mount, and the excess of room for the O2 sensor and clutch slave cylinder, but the camera chose to focus on the brake lines..



This was meant to show the close-ness of the strut tower on the pass to the alternator bracket, and the A/C comp. to the steering shaft.


Meant to show the mounting of the engine related to the strut towers ( how far back it sits ).


This was meant to show the drive accy's are even with the front axle. You can see the pumpkin if you look in front of the power steering.


Meant to show there is plenty of room for the alternator, although, it is a "snug" fit.


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Unread 11-20-2008, 01:22 PM   #152
sourskittle
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This was meant to show the clearence to the firewall. Its tight, but the way the motor sits now, it clears by abour 3/4'' of an inch ( plenty ).


This is meant to show where I beat the firewall in to make room for the intake manifold. It actully only rubbed here while trying to install the motor at an odd angle ( to clear the driver side engine mount and header ).


This was taken to show that my pass. side O2 sensor does not have room. I'm going to have to plug it and install another bung in the Y-pipe when I build it. You have to look close at this pic to see the bung at 12:00 O'clock.



Passenger side mount, free and clear.


Front veiw of the pass. mount. You can see we built room into the mount to let the upper control arm do what ever it wants. Although, it would prob have to bent/break to reach the mount...


THis is actully the underside of the driver mount. We needed to bend in the mount by about 9/16'', but the mount was too close to get a good swing on the hammer, and the mount was laughing at me... So. The solution was to weld a bolt in from the backside, to gain extra strength by welding the upper control arm bracket to the motor mount ( yea, the one I couldn't bend with a mini-sledge, haha ).


Underside of the passenger side mount.


Meant to show how close the steering shaft and A/C comp. are from the side. Its close, but now an issue.


Unless you've gotten this deep in a jeep, you might not reallize what this is. Its the steering joint on the frame. We spaced the steering out with a bolt and spot welded the top, to get just a hair more clearence of the A/C comp.
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2002 TJ Apex edition with EFI ford 5.0L H.O., NV3550, 33'' Maxxis A/Ts, 5'' lift with custom built rear 4-link, Ford 8.8 LSD 4.10s, HP D30 with spartan locker 4.10s
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Unread 11-20-2008, 01:30 PM   #153
sourskittle
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Just shows the slave cylinder had plenty of room.


Really shows the closeness of the driver header and the mount. You can see why this actully made it a bit difficult to line the motor up b/c the motor had to be dropped in OVER the mount, then "worked" into place. Its actully not as close as it looks in the pic, and there's plenty of room for header flange bolts and stuff.


Intake manifold clearence.


Engine mounting height vs the stock OEM bumper.


And that's it for now...
Got the accys squared away, and used 180 degree rubber hoses on the back of the hot water tubes instead of cutting the tubes like I think Amos did. Either way will work.

After only a bit of work, its mounted in 100% and I can move on to......WIRING THE EFI SYSTEM which should be FAIRLY straight forward due to Amos's prepping of the wiring harness ( ford side ). I'm taking tomorrow off to take my daughter to the fair and relax a bit ( although, I'm sure I'll sneak out there ).
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2002 TJ Apex edition with EFI ford 5.0L H.O., NV3550, 33'' Maxxis A/Ts, 5'' lift with custom built rear 4-link, Ford 8.8 LSD 4.10s, HP D30 with spartan locker 4.10s
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Unread 11-20-2008, 01:40 PM   #154
472cid
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Looking good. I will look when i am outside but i have the part number for weld in o2 bungs you can order from advance for 5.00 that is what i used. Let me know how it all works out
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1997 Jeep Wrangler 5.0 ho gt40p motor w/ e303 cam, ax15 trans. 241j rock trac transfer case from 05 rubicon. 05 front rubicon 44 with yukon chromoly shafts and rear rubicon dana 44 and rubicon rims with 33x11.50x16 mtrs
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Unread 11-20-2008, 01:44 PM   #155
472cid
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ecm

Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderman637 View Post
I was reading on another forum that the computer you want for a 5.0L swap is the auto computer, regardless of whether you are using a stick or auto. Supposedly this is because the auto computer's tune is more agressive to help overcome the torque converter aka slushbox. Any thoughts on this? I think the A9L is the computer I'm seeing the most out there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Dawg 97124 View Post
I had to have my computer reprogramed to work properly in my jeep..... But I did several mods to the motor so that was my plan all along.

I would recommend tuning what ever computer you put in.. My Jeep ran so much better after the reprogram and tuning.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sourskittle View Post
I'm running the A9L, but the auto version. Supposed to be the same, just for automatics.

Rock Dawg 97124 when you say "tuned" did you use a Eprom style chip or something ?

I had 6 hands on the 302 today. I had to removed the motor again so we could shorten the shaft a bit more ( advanced A tells you to take off 1/4'' ). With 3 of us, it was about 9000% less stressful. I was telling the guys that its a shame I changed the motor/tranny two different times in my SRT4 100% alone in the garage, but my V8 jeep takes three of us

Anyway, get ready for a shot storm of pictures.
Any of the A9 series computers are fine and in our cases no programming required right now because all stock but if you are looking into tuning tweecer is the cheapest burner out there and you can turn off all emmisions crap and change idle speed fuel curves timing curves pulse width all that fun stuff. also can change injector size instead of using different mass air meters
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1997 Jeep Wrangler 5.0 ho gt40p motor w/ e303 cam, ax15 trans. 241j rock trac transfer case from 05 rubicon. 05 front rubicon 44 with yukon chromoly shafts and rear rubicon dana 44 and rubicon rims with 33x11.50x16 mtrs
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Unread 11-20-2008, 01:46 PM   #156
Parker1599
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UH OH I have those same shoes.
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Unread 11-20-2008, 01:47 PM   #157
472cid
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when you want to start on the 5.0 conversion
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1997 Jeep Wrangler 5.0 ho gt40p motor w/ e303 cam, ax15 trans. 241j rock trac transfer case from 05 rubicon. 05 front rubicon 44 with yukon chromoly shafts and rear rubicon dana 44 and rubicon rims with 33x11.50x16 mtrs
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Unread 11-20-2008, 02:19 PM   #158
sourskittle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 472cid View Post
but if you are looking into tuning tweecer is the cheapest burner out there and you can turn off all emmisions crap and change idle speed fuel curves timing curves pulse width all that fun stuff. also can change injector size instead of using different mass air meters
I looked at tweecer for the turbo 351/408 were building, but after the build got out of control, we've moved on to an AEM standalone, but the tweecer would be perfect for some jeep guys.
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Unread 11-20-2008, 03:42 PM   #159
Rock Dawg 97124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 472cid View Post
Any of the A9 series computers are fine and in our cases no programming required right now because all stock but if you are looking into tuning tweecer is the cheapest burner out there and you can turn off all emmisions crap and change idle speed fuel curves timing curves pulse width all that fun stuff. also can change injector size instead of using different mass air meters
Yes you should be fine. I went to after market heads (ported and polished), Comp cam, different headers, under drive pullies, different injectors, exc.. exc.. The jeep ran but not as well as after I had it tuned. I didn't tune it myself I just drove it to a race shop and had them tune it. After 5 years of abusing it; it is starting to use and leak oil. I am thinking of pulling it down and rebuilding it this summer. Plus my Comp cam choice is not the best for how I drive it, so it will give me a chance to go to a smaller cam shaft that will take off just off idle.
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Unread 11-20-2008, 04:40 PM   #160
472cid
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mine runs and drives already. it works fine other than at idle it is a little rich due to the jeep using 49 psi all the time where 5.0 only carries 30 to 35 at idle
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1997 Jeep Wrangler 5.0 ho gt40p motor w/ e303 cam, ax15 trans. 241j rock trac transfer case from 05 rubicon. 05 front rubicon 44 with yukon chromoly shafts and rear rubicon dana 44 and rubicon rims with 33x11.50x16 mtrs
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Unread 11-20-2008, 04:58 PM   #161
spiderman637
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The more I look into it, the more I want to find an Exploder engine. Pull-a-part gets a set amount for engines and I think they only get about $130 for a V8. That free 302 I was offered was carbed and after looking into how much I would pay for all the EFI stuff if purchased separately (sensor alone would add up), I'm thinking a complete EFI roller engine is going to be the way to go. I don't plan on building a monster engine (yet) due to my stock axles and fundage so a stock computer should do just fine. Quick question for Amos, though. You said earlier that Bryan used different headers than you, which do you think fit the best?
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Unread 11-20-2008, 05:38 PM   #162
472cid
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both are the same other than his had O2 bungs. mine did not and he cant use one of his so i would get them without. 87 f 150 4x4 5.0 . technically he should use either one as they should be same distance from manifold
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1997 Jeep Wrangler 5.0 ho gt40p motor w/ e303 cam, ax15 trans. 241j rock trac transfer case from 05 rubicon. 05 front rubicon 44 with yukon chromoly shafts and rear rubicon dana 44 and rubicon rims with 33x11.50x16 mtrs
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Unread 11-20-2008, 08:47 PM   #163
SpaceGhost
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Great swap-I love the pictures and the details on engine swaps. Good Job. Just surprised no one has asked about MPG's!
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Unread 11-21-2008, 01:11 AM   #164
sourskittle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 472cid View Post
both are the same other than his had O2 bungs. mine did not and he cant use one of his so i would get them without. 87 f 150 4x4 5.0 . technically he should use either one as they should be same distance from manifold
I got the summit headers per what you told me. I think they just changed the design from when you bought yours vs when I bought mine later.

spiderman, don't buy any 302 that is or was carb'd. They are not the newer roller motor type, and are basiclly refered to as junk in the mustang world.

The explorer motor is the best option, other than one small detail. They use a slightly different style header than the fox/SN95 5.0Ls. It comes with the "GT-40" motor, which is the best factory 5.0L ford made, but the exhuast ports and spark plug angles are slightly different. If I could get one for $130 bux, I'd find a way

I'm trying to keep the pics coming as I go, to really document some of the things that Amos and I have had to deal with. Its much easier on me b/c Amos gave me all the info. It will be much easier on the next person b/c I'm giving all the detailed pics.
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Unread 11-21-2008, 02:32 AM   #165
472cid
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the early explorer 5.0 had gt 40 heads which take same headers where later ones have gt 40p which take all different stuff. As far as the headers those are 92 and newer on summit site
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