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5.0 engine swap pictures

320K views 1K replies 123 participants last post by  BDC1 
#1 ·
5.0 engine swap pictures with full functioning gauges including tach!!




:cheers2:
 
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#3 ·
yea it isnt quite done yet just couldnt wait to post the pictures . more coming later
 
#5 ·
A guy from Cape Cod Jeep CLub put a heavily warmed over 5 liter ford in his YJ with 37" Claws. You can check it out on their website on "member jeeps." i think it might be www.capecodjeepclub.org.

THe guy is one hell of a mechanic. His has the BBK intake, hes got aluminum heads, its one nasty beast.

Also, i'm lookin forward to seeing a 4.7l swap into a TJ.
 
#10 ·
I like it. I woudl love to see a 4.7L go into a jeep. or what I would also like to see is an old ford 300I6 to go in there. 4.9 liters of inline six power.....
 
#13 ·
Yea i will clean it up more i was just impatient to take pictures i will post a couple more when i am finished completely. If anyone has questions i can answer them. I can tell you all the parts you need. It is not a hard swap. I took it done the freeway and it felt awesome to get in the fast lane AND PASS SOMEONE. Yes i said pass some one not get passed and a dirty look because the wind was keeping the 2.5 from the speed limit
 
#14 ·
That's great !! I just made a post about this two days ago !!

Post up a parts list. THings that were a PITA. What adaptors, mounts ? How'd you deal with the clutch stuff ? Or did you swap the entire motor/trans ? AX-15 ? NV3550 ?

Overheating ? after market rad. ?

Parts sources ?

A/C ?

power steering adaptation ?

Keep/loose the air pump/EGR ?

Stock oil pan ?

Donor wiring harness or aftermarket ( if so who ).

As you can see, I'm really into this idea being my 4.0L is dead and a 5.0 engine set can be had for $300 ( complete ), the wiring harness ( aftermarket ) is $475, and adv. adaptors for the NV3550 is $275 with clutch. Where as the 4.0L by its self is $800 locally.
 
#15 ·
Looks good... Although you ruined a perfectly good Jeep with more ford parts... J/K.

Have you taken it down the road yet? That lil Jeep will be a rocket!
 
#17 ·
yea it plants you in the seat hard and in first gear it feels like the front tires comes off the ground
 
#19 ·
5.0 info

:cheers2:First off start with the 302 Ho from a mustang t bird or mark 7 lincoln as computer and wring harness then becomes a simple thing. also those are 225 hp from 88-93 (mass air motors) 94-95 mustang will also work but like the t bird motor and one pictures in my jeep the upper intake curves and sits lower which causes a 10 hp loss down to 215. a side benefeit is the 302 weighs 70 pounds less than 4.0 .I am running an ax15 and advance adapter plate with the ford bellhousing 84 and up ford truck w/ 4.9,5.0, or 5.8 are all the same. they can be identified by the external slave. just make sure when you buy it you buy the bracket and slave cylinder too. Flywheel can be off any ford truck 302 newer than 83 so it is 50 oz balance. Clutch you run a ford 11 clutch pressure plate and a chevy 11" disc inside of it. the advance adapter plate will come with the pilot bushing. tho hook up the slave i cut the plastic line from the tj slave at a point where it looked like it would connect good and then have the slave off with the metal fitting in it that the ford plastic line was originaly on and take a lighter and genlty heat the plastic line then shove it over the fitting. before you cut it where you want it leave a few extra inches on the line and practice a few times so you know how much too heat it. Wiring harness the easiest and cheapest way it buy a 92-93 mustang harness it is the same harness ford racing sold for years and recently discontinued. there are three peices so make sure it is whole. there is the injector harness, o2 harness and main harness. the 92-93 mustang harness can be identifed by the fuel pump relay. it will be right by the computer plug in. no relay by the computer plug in you can still use it buy will have to wire in a fuel pump relay and i dont have the connecter sheet to identify the wires as easy. Then buy any mustang ecm from an 88-93 mustang non cobra car such as an a9l or a9m. as long as it is mass air and mustang it will work.
 
#21 ·
:e
:I am running an ax15 and advance adapter plate with the ford bellhousing 84 and up ford truck w/ 4.9,5.0, or 5.8 are all the same. they can be identified by the external slave. just make sure when you buy it you buy the bracket and slave cylinder too. Flywheel can be off any ford truck 302 newer than 83 so it is 50 oz balance. Clutch you run a ford 11 clutch pressure plate and a chevy 11" disc inside of it. the advance adapter plate will come with the pilot bushing. tho hook up the slave i cut the plastic line from the tj slave at a point where it looked like it would connect good and then have the slave off with the metal fitting in it that the ford plastic line was originaly on and take a lighter and genlty heat the plastic line then shove it over the fitting..
That right there was the biggest mystery to me. I had figured that some ford truck had to have come with a 302/351 and a hydraulic clutch.

I haven't really gotten to inspect the ford wiring harnesses out of the car like I'd like to. I had a 89' LX hatch for a few years ( no mass air ), and it was basiclly a race car, but I never had to really get "balls deep" in wiring it. From the intake manifold your running, I expected that it came from an SN95, but I guess I really never paid much attention to the T-bird/lincoln 5.0L stuff ( I was more interested in the 2.3L versons of the T-bird ).

So... Ford truck hydraulic bell housing, flywheel, presure plate, slave cylinder. Chevy 11'' clutch ( prob. the one that comes with the NV3550 adaptor kit from AA ).

Why are the T-bird/lincoln motors simplier wiring wise ? ( just wondering, but they are prob. way cheaper in bone yards, and way less likely to have been abused like 92% of mustangs are/have been ).

92-93 fox wiring harness.

Good stuff man, I'm looking forward to the PM.

Wow... 70LBS. lighter than the 4.0L !! That's about enough to make up for my rear bumper I built, haha. Nice to know its not gaining any. That would put it about 150LBS away from being as light as my Xj :eek:

If/when I do it, I'll deffinately be making a large write-up on it, as this is hopefully going to be my first "non-time limited build". All my race cars have always been to some degree my daily drivers, so to do this how I want, and as clean as possible ( and right ) is going to be really nice for me and hopefully I can help other people out as 472ci is helpping me out ( just with more pictures and prob. some GT40 heads :nono:)
 
#22 ·
lincoln motors are a different firing order but can work just makes it hard because of the comppter and harness being set up for 302 ho firingorder. on a side note if you want gt40 heads. the explorers after i think 98 had gt40p heads and the best flowing intake stock. it even outflows the cobra. the earlier ones just have gt 40s. ford had to do this util the 5.0 phase out to meet emmisions. explorer engines would be the way to go as they have great heads and an awesome intake. the right fring order and also have a bigger throttle body. The lincoln motor i said was easier was the mark 7 not all lincoln as the mark seven has the 302 ho. also as far as headers use the summit racing manifold replacement headers for an 87 truck. they are 159 and wil clear the clutch. i will post more in the next day or two when i get more time. andsourskittle your email will be coming.
 
#23 ·
Holy crap your up late... get off work at 2am, most the time I don't get replies until I wake up, haha.

Thanx again man. Ok, Mark7 motors, not lincoln motors.

I'd like to get a exploder motor, but I'll pretty much take what I can get for a good price. We're building a 408 stroker T78 turbo set-up for my buddies SN-95 with 300K miles on it ( odvously were using a built 351W block, not the OEM motor ). Its still got the OEM, never rebuilt AOD in it !!! Soon to have a C4 or E40D ( depends on budget ). He's got more extra cash flow than me, I have kids :laugh:
 
#24 ·
As far as the ac i used the 94-95 brackets that came with my motor and the ac compressor is on the wrong side so i will have to cusrom make lines. The 5.0 ho oil pans are all double sump which is mostly rear with just a little front sump for the pump clearance. it will work fine. the factory radiator keeps it cool but dont make the mistake i did. run a 17" fan not 18. mine is scary close to the radiator hose. the six cylinder shroud has a 20" opening but it is too short. it seems to work good enough mine stays right at 180 and bottom of radiator is always about 140. Because of the brackets i used i had to offset the motor to the passenger side but if you use different brackets you could maybe get the ac on pass side hook it up to the jeep hose. to give you an idea of the room i had. that is a 3" spacer behind that fan. still dont make it in the shroud. On a side note make sure that you get a fan that matches the rotation of the w.p. a smooth water pump pulley is reverse rotation and a ribbed on is standard.
 
#26 ·
Very nice, I like the idea. Do you have all the sensors hooked up so it keeps the check engine light off? Did you have any trouble taping into the factory jeep harness for things like oil pressure, temp, Volts, etc?

I bet your fuel mileage improves, let us know what you get.
 
#28 ·
Very nice, I like the idea. Do you have all the sensors hooked up so it keeps the check engine light off? Did you have any trouble taping into the factory jeep harness for things like oil pressure, temp, Volts, etc?

I bet your fuel mileage improves, let us know what you get.
Check engine light is on but i am going to modify the light socket so it is wirined to the ford computer and not the gauge cluster. volts was automatic, oil pressure and coolant sensors are jeep. the computer is very unhappy right now as it dont have much stuff left to talk too:laugh: The gauges are the only reason the jeep computer is still there. I have only drove it a little as it has not had exhaust put on yet and can tell already it is better on fuel:wave:
 
#27 ·
sweet...


i would love that, but a few questions

did you get the comp. for from another car or new?
did you have to weld up new mounts?
what trans did you have to swap it with, and what was it out of?
also is it 50 state legal?

besides labor, how much did it cost you?

i thought about doing something like this, but i may just buy a new JK...i don't know~

lastly was it fun? if it was wanna have some more fun doing the same to mine?
 
#29 ·
sweet...

i would love that, but a few questions

did you get the comp. for from another car or new?
did you have to weld up new mounts?
what trans did you have to swap it with, and what was it out of?
also is it 50 state legal?

besides labor, how much did it cost you?

i thought about doing something like this, but i may just buy a new JK...i don't know~

lastly was it fun? if it was wanna have some more fun doing the same to mine?
Very fun but i enjoy these kind of things. as far as compressor it is 94 mustang so is the ps pump and alternator. i would say it cost me around 1800 but i also bought a bunch i didnt need. so prob 1500more accurate. i have no idea about 50 state legal but first guess would be NO. it would have to be a 97+ explorer 5.0 to be legal which would also mean more power:2thumbsup:
as you can not stick an older motor in to a newer vehicle
 
#31 ·
He posted that the 5.0 weighs less than the 4.0L by 70LBS. so you'd actully need to buy a HD front bumper to keep the weight distrubution the same.
 
#32 ·
Ole yea, and as far as the fan not reaching into the jeep fan shroud far enough.... The 94-95 motors have a shorter accy system than the 87-93s. An even different buddy at work is the orginal owner of a 70' Boss 302, has a 427 cobra jet replica he built, and daily drives a 93' cobra. He's newest project is a 95 cobra he got for $400 without a motor. He bought a 92' 5.0 for it, and just recently found out the sn-95 stuff is shorter. So maybe if you'd use the 87-93 accy drive, then your fan might be a bit closer to the radiator.

Good to hear the stock Rad is working out.
 
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