42RLE Transmission Fluid Change questions and write-up? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 61 Old 07-18-2014, 12:31 PM
thebestskibum
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Please HELP!!! 2004 Rubicon with 42RLE

This might be a bit of a highjack... I followed WhiteMtnJeep's instructions:

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteMtnJeep View Post
For future reference the fluid should changed every 30K miles.

A full flush is actually quite easy. You need 12-14 qts of ATF+4 (12 is what is actually required but I get a little extra just in case).

Take a gallon jug that you can see through (like a milk jug) and mark it by the quart.

Disconnect the output line from the bottom of the radiator (driver's side 03-06, pass side 02 and earlier) and attach a 2-3 foot hose to it and put the other end in your marked jug.

Have someone else start the engine. Run it until you hit the 3 quart mark and shut it off.

Drop the pan and replace the filter (have a catch pan cause there will be about a quart in the pan). Make sure to use a genuine Mopar filter. There have been issues with some aftermarket filters because of pick up design. It's less messy to pump the first 3 out before dropping the pan.

Reinstall the pan and use black RTV or a quality gasket. The FSM says use RTV but a gasket is fine, too. Once the pan is reinstalled add 4 qts of ATF+4.

From here forward start and run the engine long enough to pump ONLY 3 qts at a time. Any more than that and you'll suck air into the system.

Once you've used 12 quarts, remove the hose to the jug, reattach the return line, start the engine, and allow it to reach normal operating temp. Once warm check the fluid level (parked on level surface, P-brake set, trans in N) and add if needed to bring to the full mark. At this point take it for a drive. You want the trans fluid at normal operating temp for the best results when checking fluid level. A 15 minute or so drive will do this quite nicely. After the test drive recheck your fluid level and add if needed.

If you like you can fill until there is about an extra quart of fluid. This WILL NOT hurt the 42RLE. Many do this (especially offroaders), it helps to prevent fluid starvation at extreme angles.
The problem is after I dropped my pan, I filled the transmission with 5 quarts and started the engine. Nothing came out of either of the transmission lines and the transmission won't go into any of the gears... I then put another 2.5 quarts in and still nothing. It flowed perfect before I dropped the pan...

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

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post #32 of 61 Old 07-18-2014, 12:37 PM
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Maybe something is blocking the pick up tube in the pan. Pull the filter back off and be sure it's clear. Fluid is only going to be coming out of one line, the output from the transmission.
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post #33 of 61 Old 07-19-2014, 12:40 PM
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Mine did the exact same thing after the filter/fluid swap when I started. It acted like some air was introduced and it had a hard time pickin up suction again. Once flow returned I continued with the three quarts at a clip process.

I'm not aware of all your issues, but mine was showing "delayed engagement" and I think this was why I had trouble with the flush. When my trans was tore down for rebuild the diagnosis I had was confirmed. That diagnosis indicated a possible problem with the pump assembly and TC. The pump gasket had shrank slightly over the years and the pump seal was worn.

The 42RLE is supposed to circulate fluid in either P or N but I did mine with the trans in N anyway.

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post #34 of 61 Old 07-21-2014, 11:07 AM
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I figured it out...

Some advice to people working on their jeep: wear your glasses and pay attention, if something seems funny double check what you are doing... other wise you might have an empty transmission and one clean engine... DUH... lesson learned.
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post #35 of 61 Old 07-21-2014, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebestskibum View Post
I figured it out...

Some advice to people working on their jeep: wear your glasses and pay attention, if something seems funny double check what you are doing... other wise you might have an empty transmission and one clean engine... DUH... lesson learned.
Well, what happened?
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post #36 of 61 Old 07-21-2014, 01:39 PM
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Oh come on don't make me say it... I was putting the ATF into the engine. Begin laughing now!
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post #37 of 61 Old 07-21-2014, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
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Oh come on don't make me say it... I was putting the ATF into the engine. Begin laughing now!
Well at least if you run it for a few minutes, it will clean it out.
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post #38 of 61 Old 07-21-2014, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebestskibum View Post
Oh come on don't make me say it... I was putting the ATF into the engine. Begin laughing now!
Don't feel so bad. I would be willing to bet that most, if not all of us, have done something in the past to make us think of the "double Homer Simpson" face palm.

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post #39 of 61 Old 07-22-2014, 12:08 PM
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Great write-up. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JBTJ View Post
Yes, disconnecting the return line at the radiator is a good idea, but if it's like my 32RH you will need to connect a brass barb fitting to the radiator to attach the rubber hose. No big deal though. But I've found that the amount of ATF in the cooler within the radiator is not very much, so for me it's no big deal. Your pumping out quarts of ATF so a couple of ounces left in the cooler doesn't matter to me. Maybe the 42RLE has a hard time getting rid of any air that maybe in the system due to pumping out more than 3 quarts, but the 32RH does not. I do this exact same thing to my 1980 CJ7 with the TF999 for the past 30 years and my 2004 Tahoe with the 4L80E transmission for the past 10 years and they do not have problems sucking air into the system. Once ATF is poured into the pan it immediately starts pumping it out. Although, it's not a good idea to let the pump run with no ATF in the system.

Here is my write up on the process for the 32RH that I posted on the forum many years ago. Process works with any automatic transmission, just needs to be tailored for the type transmission you have. It all depends on where you tap into the system.

How to completely replace the ATF in your 32RH transmission. First it helps to have a buddy help you with this. You will also need a length of 3/8th's rubber hose and an empty milk jug marked off in 1 quart increments. First start off by disconnecting the transmission cooler line at the radiator on the driver's side. Connect one end of the 3/8th's rubber hose to the metal line and secure with a hose clamp, then stick the other end into the milk jug. Now have your buddy start the engine and place into neutral. This will begin to pump ATF into the milk jug and allow to fill up to the 3 quart mark, once it does place back into park and turn off the motor. By doing this you will be empting most of the ATF from the pan so when you go to drop the pan ATF will not spill out every where creating a mess. Now go ahead and remove the pan and replace the filter. Then clean the pan thoroughly and reinstall the pan. Next is to top off with 3 quarts of ATF+4 by pouring it down the dip stick tube. At this point your are ready to replace the ATF in the torque converter. Now have your buddy start the engine and place the transmission into neutral. The transmission will begin to pump the ATF into the milk jug and allow it to fill up to the 3 quart line. Once that has happened place the transmission back into park and dispose of the old ATF, then add 3 new quarts of ATF to the dipstick tube. Remember your transmission only pumps the ATF when it's in neutral. Repeat this process until clean ATF is being pumped into the milk jug. Should be about 6 more quarts to complete this process, but you may want to run a couple more quarts through to be sure you get all the old ATF out. Total system holds 9 quarts. When your finished disconnect the 3/8th's hose from the metal transmission cooler line and reconnect it to the radiator. Now start the engine and move the gear selector through all gears, then take the JEEP out for a test drive and ensure the transmission is up to normal operating temperature and while on a flat surface and in neutral pull out the transmission dipstick and verify the fluid is at the full mark.


Only difference is the 42RLE will pump ATF in park or drive. The 32RH will not pump ATF in park.

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post #40 of 61 Old 08-20-2014, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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SO great news!!!

After driving my Jeep around for a while (around 500+ miles), the 4-3 downshift shudder disappeared! Everything is back to normal! I didn't need to re-do a tranny drain and fill, or overfill the transmission. The whole quicklearn/drivelearn thing actually works. So thankful!!
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post #41 of 61 Old 09-27-2015, 01:34 PM
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Great resource,
I am new to the forum.

I have a 2006 LJ stock I picked up off a lease in '09 w/50k on the clock. I've always watched the tranny fluid for discoloration and level. as long as I've owned it it has performed flawlessly.

In a week my wife and I head to Yosemite for a camping trip, and I thought I'd look into changing the fluid, which still has color and doesn't smell bad.
I'm guessing it is still the original fluid, and yes the whole dropping the pan thing is a messy disaster. I bought a huge drip pan and the trans pan still ended up squirting out of my hands and into the driveway with about a quart of fluid.

At this point I'm just doing the 4 quarts and filter. Maybe next year I'll do it again, Then the year after again. Then It'll be time for one of diesels supposedly coming out.

After 170k this looks really good.
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post #42 of 61 Old 09-27-2015, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todzila View Post
Great resource,
I am new to the forum.

I have a 2006 LJ stock I picked up off a lease in '09 w/50k on the clock. I've always watched the tranny fluid for discoloration and level. as long as I've owned it it has performed flawlessly.

In a week my wife and I head to Yosemite for a camping trip, and I thought I'd look into changing the fluid, which still has color and doesn't smell bad.
I'm guessing it is still the original fluid, and yes the whole dropping the pan thing is a messy disaster. I bought a huge drip pan and the trans pan still ended up squirting out of my hands and into the driveway with about a quart of fluid.

At this point I'm just doing the 4 quarts and filter. Maybe next year I'll do it again, Then the year after again. Then It'll be time for one of diesels supposedly coming out.

After 170k this looks really good.

Welcome to the forum. Great job changing out the filter. But, only changing out 4 of the 12+ quarts in the transmission's system is pointless. If you read up a couple of posts I pointed out a way you can drop the pan without hardly spilling a drop of ATF. One thing to keep in mind is it's natural for ATF+4 to turn a darker color. So you can't really go by the color unless it turns black. Good luck with your future ATF changes.
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post #43 of 61 Old 09-27-2015, 08:04 PM
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Thanks JBTJ,
I was thinking of doing the whole 12, but I'm worried about touching most connectors on my Jeep unless absolutely necessary. My LJ spent it's first 8 winters in Wisconsin and the salt has done it's job well.
Last week I replaced my oil pan because oil was weeping through the metal/rust.

I was afraid to mess with the radiator connection so close to our trip, and not being able to go.

Maybe I'll do the 3 quart shuffle this winter.

Todd
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post #44 of 61 Old 09-27-2015, 11:55 PM
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Easier to fix those problems there in your driveway with all those tools handy.
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post #45 of 61 Old 09-29-2015, 09:45 AM
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Easier to fix those problems there in your driveway with all those tools handy.
True, but I don't plan on pulling my Trans line from the radiator while on the road.
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