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Unread 07-05-2014, 10:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowRunner View Post
So white, what do you do with the return line while your using the jug. I assume it just sits there sucking air in. That's why only 3 quarts at a time? Or do you plug it while doing the work? Just making sure before trying myself.

Tracy
Just let it hang out. It's the return line to the pan, won't suck air or loose fluid.

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Unread 07-05-2014, 10:43 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBTJ View Post

You add a length of rubber hose to the supply line coming from the transmission going to the radiator or get a brass barb fitting that connects to the radiator on the return side and connect the rubber hose there and stick it in the milk jug. This part really doesn't matter too much as you are either going to start the flush before the radiator and exteranl cooler, if you have one, or after it. It doesn't suck air, ATF will be coming out of the rubber hose. The 42RLE holds more than 3 quarts in the transmission pan but like my 32RH it only holds 3 quarts. So you can actually pump out a little more in this case. But, since there is only 4 quarts to a gallon milk jug I'd pump out 4. The reason for this is the fluid is being sucked out of the pan and pushed through the system and out the supply line or return line, depending on where you decide to make the connection, into the milk jug. Once the pan is sucked dry you want to turn off the engine to stop the process so you will not burn up the pump in the transmission. At this point is where you add new ATF through the dipstick tube to fill the pan again and repeat the process until fresh clean ATF is coming out. Now you have successfully exchanged out all the ATF in the transmission and system.
Ideally, IMHO, you should disconnect the return line from the radiator back to the trans. That way you flush the radiator cooler during the process.

On the 42RLE the pan only holds 4 quarts. That''s why you only pump 3 at a clip. On the first pump you drain 3 quarts then drop the pan to change the filter. When the pan is replaced you add 4 just like if you were only doin a filter service. Afterwards only pump 3 and you continue to replace old fluid with new. If you pump more than 3 you can draw air into the system. That air is a PITA to get out.

The first time I did this my heep (03 w/ 42RLE) had 28K. I pumped more than 3 qts into the jug and everything was all foamy afterwards. Went through the 12 qts and after sitting I was low. It took a couple days of checking and adding to get the level right. I only added a few ounces at a clip but it made me panic. I thought I had a leak cause I was below the fill mark for a couple days after repeatedly topping it off.

Lesson learned. I found a post about it here, I think, and I didn't pay attention and follow the instructions closely.
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Unread 07-05-2014, 11:02 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteMtnJeep View Post
Ideally, IMHO, you should disconnect the return line from the radiator back to the trans. That way you flush the radiator cooler during the process.

On the 42RLE the pan only holds 4 quarts. That''s why you only pump 3 at a clip. On the first pump you drain 3 quarts then drop the pan to change the filter. When the pan is replaced you add 4 just like if you were only doin a filter service. Afterwards only pump 3 and you continue to replace old fluid with new. If you pump more than 3 you can draw air into the system. That air is a PITA to get out.
Yes, disconnecting the return line at the radiator is a good idea, but if it's like my 32RH you will need to connect a brass barb fitting to the radiator to attach the rubber hose. No big deal though. But I've found that the amount of ATF in the cooler within the radiator is not very much, so for me it's no big deal. Your pumping out quarts of ATF so a couple of ounces left in the cooler doesn't matter to me. Maybe the 42RLE has a hard time getting rid of any air that maybe in the system due to pumping out more than 3 quarts, but the 32RH does not. I do this exact same thing to my 1980 CJ7 with the TF999 for the past 30 years and my 2004 Tahoe with the 4L80E transmission for the past 10 years and they do not have problems sucking air into the system. Once ATF is poured into the pan it immediately starts pumping it out. Although, it's not a good idea to let the pump run with no ATF in the system.

Here is my write up on the process for the 32RH that I posted on the forum many years ago. Process works with any automatic transmission, just needs to be tailored for the type transmission you have. It all depends on where you tap into the system.

How to completely replace the ATF in your 32RH transmission. First it helps to have a buddy help you with this. You will also need a length of 3/8th's rubber hose and an empty milk jug marked off in 1 quart increments. First start off by disconnecting the transmission cooler line at the radiator on the driver's side. Connect one end of the 3/8th's rubber hose to the metal line and secure with a hose clamp, then stick the other end into the milk jug. Now have your buddy start the engine and place into neutral. This will begin to pump ATF into the milk jug and allow to fill up to the 3 quart mark, once it does place back into park and turn off the motor. By doing this you will be empting most of the ATF from the pan so when you go to drop the pan ATF will not spill out every where creating a mess. Now go ahead and remove the pan and replace the filter. Then clean the pan thoroughly and reinstall the pan. Next is to top off with 3 quarts of ATF+4 by pouring it down the dip stick tube. At this point your are ready to replace the ATF in the torque converter. Now have your buddy start the engine and place the transmission into neutral. The transmission will begin to pump the ATF into the milk jug and allow it to fill up to the 3 quart line. Once that has happened place the transmission back into park and dispose of the old ATF, then add 3 new quarts of ATF to the dipstick tube. Remember your transmission only pumps the ATF when it's in neutral. Repeat this process until clean ATF is being pumped into the milk jug. Should be about 6 more quarts to complete this process, but you may want to run a couple more quarts through to be sure you get all the old ATF out. Total system holds 9 quarts. When your finished disconnect the 3/8th's hose from the metal transmission cooler line and reconnect it to the radiator. Now start the engine and move the gear selector through all gears, then take the JEEP out for a test drive and ensure the transmission is up to normal operating temperature and while on a flat surface and in neutral pull out the transmission dipstick and verify the fluid is at the full mark.


Only difference is the 42RLE will pump ATF in park or drive. The 32RH will not pump ATF in park.
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Unread 07-05-2014, 11:12 AM   #19
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I believe yours is the write-up I read (applied it to the 42). Looking at that has a real familiarity to it.



JBTJ also mentioned adding an auxiliary cooler, too. I second this. The worst enemy to an auto trans is heat and it's no secret that the 42RLE tends to run on the warmer end of things. Jerry Bransford did a nice write up on the Derale direct fit unit (what I did) and there are a couple threads about others, too. Many Jeepers put a B&M unit in front of the radiator that also works very well.
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Unread 07-05-2014, 11:16 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteMtnJeep View Post
I believe yours is the write-up I read (applied it to the 42). Looking at that has a real familiarity to it.



JBTJ also mentioned adding an auxiliary cooler, too. I second this. The worst enemy to an auto trans is heat and it's no secret that the 42RLE tends to run on the warmer end of things. Jerry Bransford did a nice write up on the Derale direct fit unit (what I did) and there are a couple threads about others, too. Many Jeepers put a B&M unit in front of the radiator that also works very well.
Agreed Having an external cooler and filter will keep your transmission happy for a very long time. Just ask the TF999 in my 1980 CJ7 with 365k on it.
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Unread 07-07-2014, 08:21 PM   #21
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Alright guys, I'm starting to have some problems....

I changed the transmission fluid and filter (replaced 5.5 quarts of ATF), and now I'm getting a weird slipping at the 30mph mark and only when I'm slowing down.
If I speed up, there's no problem, it's only when I kick into a higher gear past 30mph that when I slow down to a stop, at the 30mph mark, it feels like there's a slip or shudder.
Anyone experience this or have any ideas what this could be?

I checked fluid levels when hot and shifting through all the gears and landing on neutral, the fluid level is at the bottom hole of the "hot" portion on the dipstick, so I have just enough fluid in there. So I'm stumped. I also did a tcase drain and fill at the same time. Could the tcase cause this? I filled that up right I'm sure.

Help guys! I don't want to cause any damage and be out $3000
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Unread 07-07-2014, 08:47 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nishbot View Post
Alright guys, I'm starting to have some problems....

I changed the transmission fluid and filter (replaced 5.5 quarts of ATF), and now I'm getting a weird slipping at the 30mph mark and only when I'm slowing down.
If I speed up, there's no problem, it's only when I kick into a higher gear past 30mph that when I slow down to a stop, at the 30mph mark, it feels like there's a slip or shudder.
Anyone experience this or have any ideas what this could be?

I checked fluid levels when hot and shifting through all the gears and landing on neutral, the fluid level is at the bottom hole of the "hot" portion on the dipstick, so I have just enough fluid in there. So I'm stumped. I also did a tcase drain and fill at the same time. Could the tcase cause this? I filled that up right I'm sure.

Help guys! I don't want to cause any damage and be out $3000
What brand filter did you use?
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Unread 07-08-2014, 01:56 AM   #23
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I used a genuine Mopar filter.

So I did some reading on this, and it looks like like the 4-3 or 3-2 downshift shudder is a common problem after a fluid change, and it lies with the fact that I have to reset the TCM to clear all the Values, as the 42RLE is an adaptive learning transmission. I could either do that or drive 700 miles before the tranny figures out there's new fluid in there and adjusts accordingly. A dealer can do a quicklearn thing that does it instantly.

Anyone else heard of this, experienced this, or done this after a fluid change?
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Unread 07-08-2014, 03:32 AM   #24
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Lot of good info here.
I can tell you from experience that I will never do a machine flush on my jeep again.
I did a flush on my LJ when I bought it, I had 62k on the clock and it destroyed my tranny.
I've since added an external filter and Derale TJ cooler system all is well.
I feel that most won't service a transmission as needed because of the mess involved.
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Unread 07-08-2014, 03:54 AM   #25
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I can tell you from experience that I will never do a machine flush on my jeep again.
I did a flush on my LJ when I bought it, I had 62k on the clock and it destroyed my tranny.
What went wrong with the machine flush? How did it destroy the tranny?
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Unread 07-08-2014, 09:56 AM   #26
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Soon after the flush I started shifting horribly and slipping, upon tear down I found I pump seal out and the torque converter was toast too.
My LJ has led a pampered life, although I don't consider the flush to be the nain factor in my transmission committing suside it sure didn't help.
All the years I've been doing this I have found the 42 series to be the most finicky transmission ever built.
I was surprised to see what my temperatures were on it just running down the road.
As I stated before an external filter and cooler sould be mandatory if you expect a long life out of the 42 series.
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Unread 07-08-2014, 11:04 AM   #27
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I dropped the pan, replaced the filter then topped her back up. Like JBTJ I have an external filter too so I change that every other oil change, I loose about a quart ish each time so I figure it keeps the fluid relatively fresh.
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Unread 07-15-2014, 01:02 PM   #28
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I'm a little confused on the fluid capacity of the 42RLE, the FSM I'm looking at says it takes 5 quarts to fill a rebuilt transmission including the torque converter. WhiteMountainJeep mentioned 12 quarts as the capacity, did someone interchange quarts for pints or am I misunderstanding something? I want to change the filter and do the complete flush per the procedure posted earlier in this thread. Thanks.
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Unread 07-15-2014, 01:09 PM   #29
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I'm a little confused on the fluid capacity of the 42RLE, the FSM I'm looking at says it takes 5 quarts to fill a rebuilt transmission including the torque converter. WhiteMountainJeep mentioned 12 quarts as the capacity, did someone interchange quarts for pints or am I misunderstanding something? I want to change the filter and do the complete flush per the procedure posted earlier in this thread. Thanks.
5 quarts is for drop the pan and top back off. Doing the flush the way I posted you want to run a quart or 2 more thru the system. Either way, 12 quarts is what you want to buy.
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Unread 07-15-2014, 01:35 PM   #30
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5 quarts is for drop the pan and top back off. Doing the flush the way I posted you want to run a quart or 2 more thru the system. Either way, 12 quarts is what you want to buy.
Thanks for the quick clarification, now I can go out and get started on it...heading to the Rocky's on Thursday and wanted to put fresh fluid and filter in the trans before leaving.
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