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Unread 11-01-2010, 02:54 PM   #46
mrblaine
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Originally Posted by Dogman View Post
Ok, I need some input on Joints. Should I just go with the CE-9114 (1.25"-12 shank) and 1.5" ID .250 wall tube for all my arms? I know it's over kill for the rear uppers, but it's easier to just order all the same stuff. Is the 2" tube going to cause me trouble anywhere? I can't find 1.25"-12 inserts for 1.25" ID .250 wall tube.

Or, should I step down to the CE-9113 (1.00"-14 shank) for the rear uppers?

For the front upper axle side, I'm thinking about this:





Is that a horrible idea? I have 8" of separation at the axle if I were to use this and the stock LCA brackets.
The problem with that Genright front upper is you can't 3 link off of it. It's not large enough to use by itself, so you'd have to 4 link it and why would you?

The problem with 2" tubing is the barrels on JJ's are 2" wide. You risk burning the snap ring groove when you weld.

The problem with JJ's on the frame side of the uppers is they hold the bolt down from the bottom of the tub too far and that tends to screw up your geometry unless you drop the frame side of the lower below the frame another inch or two.

Any more questions?

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Unread 11-01-2010, 03:16 PM   #47
Dogman
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
The problem with that Genright front upper is you can't 3 link off of it. It's not large enough to use by itself, so you'd have to 4 link it and why would you?

The problem with 2" tubing is the barrels on JJ's are 2" wide. You risk burning the snap ring groove when you weld.

The problem with JJ's on the frame side of the uppers is they hold the bolt down from the bottom of the tub too far and that tends to screw up your geometry unless you drop the frame side of the lower below the frame another inch or two.

Any more questions?
I'm 100% sure I'll have more questions at some point

My lower bolt will be about 1" below the frame rail, so I think I'll be ok there. I'm shooting for 4" of separation to start.

That's too bad about the Gen-Right joint - that would have been very simple. They state it's perfect for their 3-link kit, but I've never seen anyone use it and I was suspicious about that. Since it uses about the same size bolt, is it the joint itself that's not strong enough?
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Unread 11-01-2010, 05:24 PM   #48
mrblaine
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I'm 100% sure I'll have more questions at some point

My lower bolt will be about 1" below the frame rail, so I think I'll be ok there. I'm shooting for 4" of separation to start.

That's too bad about the Gen-Right joint - that would have been very simple. They state it's perfect for their 3-link kit, but I've never seen anyone use it and I was suspicious about that. Since it uses about the same size bolt, is it the joint itself that's not strong enough?
Genright is welcome to their own opinions about that size joint, but, you are asking a single arm to do the work that used to be shared by two.

I won't ever do it that way and Drew from Poly won't either.
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Unread 11-01-2010, 05:46 PM   #49
Dogman
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
I won't ever do it that way and Drew from Poly won't either.
So is a CE-9114/CE-9114L w/ 2" x .250 wall combo up to the task?

I've decided on CE-9113/CE-9110 for the lowers and CE-9113/CE-9113L for the rear uppers. 1.75" x .250 wall for tubing.

Quote:
The problem with 2" tubing is the barrels on JJ's are 2" wide. You risk burning the snap ring groove when you weld.
See, this is why I ask questions
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4 link , arms , link , mid , suspension

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