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Unread 08-04-2010, 08:19 PM   #31
Dogman
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Well, I've really wrestled with what I'm going to do. At the moment I'm on the "Currie short arm lift" side of the fence. I could always lengthen the arms and triangulate the rear later down the road if I want to.

Either way, I'm waiting to build up the funds. I just ordered the Currie steering today since I bent my tie rod. Anyone need custom software development?

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Unread 08-30-2010, 04:37 PM   #32
tazzerboy
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Iím probably a year and half away from starting a LA lift ($$$ issues). I figure this allows me to scout out as many possibilities as I can. In view of the fact that Iím still a newb, everything on this thread has been informative. I was wondering about Gen-Rights brackets and kits. They seem just as stout as PP and Koreís if not more so.

Gen-Right 4 Link Rear Bracket Kit

GenRight 4 Link Rear Suspension Kit

GenRight 3 Link Front Link Suspension Kit

They are, however, more expensive. Gen-Right claims that they have done all of the measurements already. Is this a safe bet to work without any problems or issues regards to geometry and clearance?

Also, which kit (PP, Kore, or GR) would be an easier kit to do a mid-arm? Or, is this more of an issue for the calculators to address? Can these lifts be stretch-less (Iím not sure if I want to even go there with all gas tank upgrades, spring relocations, etc.)? What are the benefits of doing a stretch besides a longer wheel base? Are coil overs ďreallyĒ necessary?

I know that Iím probably asking some elementary questions, but please educate me some more on this stuff. Iíve done a ton of reading here at JF and at Pirate. Everything has started to run together. I guess it doesnít help with all of ďnoiseĒ considering everyone, including grandma, has something to say about the matter.
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Unread 08-30-2010, 05:15 PM   #33
Dogman
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I think you really need to start with what size tires are you going to run and how are you going to use the rig? Build the suspension from there.

No matter how much I want to 3/4-link my rig and build my own suspension - I keep coming back to the fact that I'm going to run 35s and that's it. I'm just going to get the Currie 4" short arm kit and be done with it. So much easier and it's a complete system that is proven.

You know how it goes though, I reserve the right to change my mind tomorrow
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Unread 08-30-2010, 06:58 PM   #34
tazzerboy
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Dog,

I know what you mean about the Currie SA. I've even talked to Gerald at Savvy a while back about it. I also figure that the money I would save by doing a SA I could buy some under armor and other mods.

Where I'm coming from is that my Jeep is currently my DD. Once my wife finishes school and gets a job, however, I plan on buying a truck and turning my jeep in to a weekend warrior....hence, the LA option. I'm in the same boat with you in regards to not going bigger than 35's though.
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Unread 08-31-2010, 05:31 AM   #35
snowrydr01
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Why not consider the best of both worlds?

Short arm the front so that you can buy off the shelf arms, steering, and track bar components, just beefing up the stock mounts. In the back relocate your buckets, outboard your shocks, maybe a mild mid arm setup to prevent jacking when locked and turning tightly, especially if you putting an 8.8 that needs brackets welded on anyway.

I know everything is relative but thats the conclusion i came to since i have a d35 and will be tossing it what i go to 35s. After pricing out brackets for all options it was about the same to triangulate the rear and to buy TJ specific mounting brackets.

Just another option to make you loose sleep over at night
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Unread 08-31-2010, 11:25 AM   #36
Yuri
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I used the poly bracket kit on the front, and it's basically a mid-arm... @ the stock axle position, the arms would be about 29" eye to eye. If you go any further you will run into problems with an exhaust flange on the passenger side. It could easilly be deleted tho, if you wanted 35-36" arms. My front end isn't done yet, or I'd post pics. Progress is VERY slow because of a back injury...

For the rear, I made my own conglomeration of brackets... mostly because my upper is a bent- A-frame configuration instead of 2 arms. By doing this, I was able to keep the exhaust in tact (tho, now that I'm lowering my COG, I need to take an inch out of it somewhere).



btw... the pic is of it just tacked together. It has more support built-in.
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Unread 10-22-2010, 10:55 AM   #37
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Well, I'm back on the custom 3/4 link setup. Hopefully the funds will start to come in soon. I have been looking at brackets again and I really like the Barnes kits. Not sure that I'll buy the whole kit at once, depends on the funds.

A couple things I'm not sure about with their kit. They use the forged ends on both sides for the lowers. That's more adjustability, but I'm not sure about the shank/jam nut on the frame side to get dragged across rocks. Another, they use 2.5" JJs on the uppers. More strength, but is that going to cause any issues (larger links). If not, I like that idea in case I ever go with bigger axles, otherwise I can order the kit with smaller brackets and probably joints.

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Unread 10-22-2010, 11:06 AM   #38
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I guess the uppers would be 1.75" OD .250 wall DOM, I doubt the extra .25" diameter on the uppers would make much difference.
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Unread 10-22-2010, 11:11 AM   #39
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I guess the uppers would be 1.75" OD .250 wall DOM, I doubt the extra .25" diameter on the uppers would make much difference.
It could be the most fantastic weld on kit on the face of the planet and I'd never install one due to the phenomenally gender challenged stars cut in the brackets. Why do vendors feel the need to ruin a perfectly good product by doing that?
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Unread 10-22-2010, 11:31 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
It could be the most fantastic weld on kit on the face of the planet and I'd never install one due to the phenomenally gender challenged stars cut in the brackets. Why do vendors feel the need to ruin a perfectly good product by doing that?
Beggars can't be choosers.
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Unread 10-22-2010, 11:43 AM   #41
mrblaine
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Beggars can't be choosers.
Yes we can. I fully do that all the time and live by it. Even if it's free, if I don't like it, it don't go on my rig. In fact I wind up with stuff like that all the time and give it away to someone it doesn't offend.
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Unread 10-22-2010, 12:23 PM   #42
Dogman
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Keep me on your short list, I'm not easily offended

I appreciate your input Blaine. I have a lot of pictures from your builds and I reference them to see how you've done things.
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Unread 10-22-2010, 12:49 PM   #43
mrblaine
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Keep me on your short list, I'm not easily offended

I appreciate your input Blaine. I have a lot of pictures from your builds and I reference them to see how you've done things.
How about some Teraflex lowers and some fixed length RE lowers? I've not found anyone I don't like well enough to give them to yet.
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Unread 10-22-2010, 01:45 PM   #44
Dogman
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
How about some Teraflex lowers and some fixed length RE lowers? I've not found anyone I don't like well enough to give them to yet.
Ok, you've offended me
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Unread 11-01-2010, 01:31 PM   #45
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Ok, I need some input on Joints. Should I just go with the CE-9114 (1.25"-12 shank) and 1.5" ID .250 wall tube for all my arms? I know it's over kill for the rear uppers, but it's easier to just order all the same stuff. Is the 2" tube going to cause me trouble anywhere? I can't find 1.25"-12 inserts for 1.25" ID .250 wall tube.

Or, should I step down to the CE-9113 (1.00"-14 shank) for the rear uppers?

For the front upper axle side, I'm thinking about this:





Is that a horrible idea? I have 8" of separation at the axle if I were to use this and the stock LCA brackets.
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