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Unread 05-02-2010, 01:59 PM   #16
nriver
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With the PP brackets. You can decide where you want them on the frame. Then the rest becomes self evident.

I did a bunch of the calculator stuff, then threw it all out the window and placed the brackets on the frame where they wanted to go and did the arms to match.

At about full stuff the arms hit the frame. But the front axle hits the engine and the rear axle hits the tub, and the upper arms hit the tub....

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Unread 05-02-2010, 04:53 PM   #17
Dogman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrca View Post
Dogman, do you have the 4Link Calculator spreadsheet? It's quite convenient for quickly getting a glance at arm lengths at stuff and droop and graphing out things without using an eraser and a ruler. Just a thought.

Stolen from POR
http://highvibesoffroad.com/drawings/4BarLinkV3.0a.zip
I have played around with them, but I like drawing it out. I'm actually about a year out on this project, so I started measuring and drawing more as a learning tool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nriver View Post
With the PP brackets. You can decide where you want them on the frame. Then the rest becomes self evident.

I did a bunch of the calculator stuff, then threw it all out the window and placed the brackets on the frame where they wanted to go and did the arms to match.

At about full stuff the arms hit the frame. But the front axle hits the engine and the rear axle hits the tub, and the upper arms hit the tub....
I'm starting to think I'll spend the money on brackets just because I want to do things right. I've done some decent fabrication, but making brackets can be a real pain.

I'm starting a develop an opinion on theory vs. reality here
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Unread 05-04-2010, 11:07 AM   #18
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Ok, I broke down and started using the Calculator Now back to theory, I need some help with the numbers. Mainly what kind of anti-squat number I'm looking for?

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Unread 05-07-2010, 06:46 PM   #19
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i'm just goings to buy claytons brackets mount them in claytons location and built the arms to fit. seems like it would save the headache
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Unread 05-07-2010, 07:38 PM   #20
Dogman
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I'm thinking these Poly brackets are what I might use for the lowers, then just build the upper brackets on top of them with 3 or 4 mounting positions.

Poly Performance Inc.*::*Brackets/Tabs/Trusses*::*Axle & Chassis Brackets*::*High Clearance Lower Control Arm Frame Mount - Un-Welded - Jeep JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CTM, Johnny Joints®, Currie Enterprises, Edelbrock, Pi

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Unread 05-25-2010, 02:24 PM   #21
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Well, I'm updating this for myself and anyone else who might stumble upon this thread. I have been going crazy thinking about brackets. I've been mocking stuff up with cardboard and searching for pre-made brackets. I hate to buy stuff when I can make stuff, but this is one of the times that I'm realizing how much of a pain it is to make nice brackets for this and how much time/effort it will save to buy.

I found these Kore brackets that are nice and cheaper ($215/pr) than the Poly brackets:

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Unread 05-25-2010, 06:40 PM   #22
nriver
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Nice, looks about the same. Saving time on this part is not a bad thing, IMHO.
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Unread 05-25-2010, 06:54 PM   #23
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Those Kore brackets look awesome. I'd say go with those.
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Unread 05-26-2010, 12:59 PM   #24
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Well, it looks like there is no provision for the brake/fuel lines to pass through the Kore brackets (as seen on the Poly brackets). The difference in cost is not worth having to cut/flare/route those lines around the brackets.

Poly:

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Unread 05-26-2010, 07:41 PM   #25
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IIRC, I ended up routing mine on the top of the frame/bottom of the tub. Not sure that is totally an issue.

I will say, routing all the lines is an issue, but behind the mount, not an issue. IMHO.
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Unread 05-27-2010, 07:50 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nriver View Post
IIRC, I ended up routing mine on the top of the frame/bottom of the tub. Not sure that is totally an issue.

I will say, routing all the lines is an issue, but behind the mount, not an issue. IMHO.
I appreciate the input. I was reading your thread yesterday trying to see what other kind of issues I may run in to (I have more time than money right now ). Fortunately, I just have the fuel/brake lines to deal with and not the evap stuff.

I'm also trying to figure out the dimensions of the poly brackets. Would you possibly be able measure the distance from the lower link bolt hole to the front of the mount for me? My guess is about 4". If so that would mean my lowers will be in the 26-27" range.
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Unread 05-27-2010, 09:08 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dogman View Post
Well, it looks like there is no provision for the brake/fuel lines to pass through the Kore brackets (as seen on the Poly brackets). The difference in cost is not worth having to cut/flare/route those lines around the brackets.

Poly:

Nothing against Poly because I use a lot of their stuff, but I'd strongly recommend against that routing. If you have any issue with a line, it's going to be harder to deal with. I always route them around and on top of the frame and then back down. Besides, you have to follow the upper down with the brake line and typically an air locker line so those exit in front of or beside the upper mount.
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Unread 05-27-2010, 12:36 PM   #28
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Sounds like I have a little more homework to do

So whichever brackets I go with, the hard line will pretty much terminate at the bracket and then a soft line will route on the upper arm down to the T on the axle?

I'm actually glad that I have time to work through all this stuff and ask questions ahead of time.
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Unread 05-27-2010, 09:00 PM   #29
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I will try and take some measurements this weekend. Lots to still do under there.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 07:03 PM   #30
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any updates what happened with this?
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