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#1 | |
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Registered User
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4" lift for an 06 LJ Rubicon?
Hey all,
He took our stock 06 Rubi up the John Bull run in Big Bear over the weekend. While we made it we did get hung up a few times which required the placement of a few rocks under the tires to get us going again and the bottom got pretty scafred up. So we decided it's time (while sitting there high-centered on a rock) to go for a little lift. My goal is 4" with 33's but I want to maintain good road manners as it's a DD. So, the first major question is long or short arm? I'm leaning towards long as I've heard the on-road ride is better. What are some otheradvantages or dis-advangtages? Erik
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Erik 2006 JL Rubicon, white 4.0L, Auto, 4" FT LA lift, Bilstein 5100's, Currie HD tie-rods, Napa steering stabalizer, Currie lower cntrl arm skids, FT engine/oil skid, FT exhaust, Kilby sterring skid, SkidRow radiator skid, Mastercraft grab handles, Cobra 75WX cb, Wilson 3' ant, trailguide, Mopar iPod adapter, Coverking seat covers, Warn diff guard |
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#2 |
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Basically if you can afford it go long arm...
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I agree with the LA for a DD, I have a lifted SA set up and it is a rough ride, luckily its only a weekend or trail toy at this point. Full Traction has a nice LA.
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4.56's,D30 Aussie,D44 OX, Superior EVO chromo shafts,35"MTRs,8K MileMarker,TomWoods DS,SYE,K&N CAI,FOA Coilovers,CO2 OBA,EBC yellow stuff,RockKrawler 5.5 LA,Full welded cage |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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03 Sport |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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You probably got high centered due to the Tcase skid 'shovel' under the center of your Jeep. You can fix this without a lift by doing a TT. Since you have a Rubicon no CV driveshaft would be required to do a TT with the stock suspension. Check out the 'Nth TT' link in my sig for pics and an install writeup.
Instead of this (stock skid): ![]() You could have this (TT): ![]() If you went with a suspension lift, I'd recomend doing a 3" lift and 1" body to stay closer to factory geomerty for better handling, it would also likely keep you out of CV driveshaft territory. At 4", even with your LJ you may need a cv driveshaft, which is an additional $500 or so for the driveshaft and upper adjustable control arms. Theres nothing cheap about lifting your Jeep 4", so dont opt for the cheapest 4" lift you can find if thats the route you choose to take.
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OME ZJ/LJ combo | SwayLOC | 1.25" BL | Nth TT | Riddler diff covers | EMP gastank skid | 33" MTRs | Warn M8000 | Cobra75 and much more... Riddler torture test video Oil Filter Study Useful Axle Info Thread |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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On a LJ any short arm kit will work. the ride will be much bet than the regular TJ's. BUT you must get GOOD Shocks!!!!! Bilsteins or adjustable Ranchos like I run, with them set at #3 (soft).
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04 L J Travel'n Gadget Show KE5PPH |
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#7 | |
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Jeep Addict
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I run a 4 1/2" BDS short arm lift and 33" on my LJ which is my daily driver. Can't say enough about BDS Suspensions. Excellent ride on road, equally great ride off road, outstanding articulation, quality manufacturing and a lifetime no questions guarantee on all of the suspensions parts excluding shocks and bushings. Really, as good as this suspension works it should be more than adequate for you without spending the additional money on a long arm. Ultimately this will be your choice but I can tell you that you will not be disappointed with this suspension.
I also run BDS on my CJ and am equally impressed with that as well.
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__________________ GR8 Half Top Conversion Thread Quote:
2005 Rubicon LJ Unlimited - 4 1/2" BDS Suspension - 285/75/16 Toyo M/T's - 12,000# Winch - Ground Pounder Fab Rear Bumper - FabRieckAtions Custom Front Bumper - Overkill Engineering Tube Fenders - GR8 Half Top - Rock Hard Cage - Banks Monster Exhaust - 5.13 Gears - High Performance Flux Capacitor 1976 CJ-7 - 33" Super Swampers - BDS 4" Suspension - 6 Point Roll Cage |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for all the input. Descisions, decisions
So far I'm leaning towars the 4" FT LA kit with the tri-link rear. Anyone have direct experience with this kit? Looked at the RE kits also but I'm just not as impressed.
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Erik 2006 JL Rubicon, white 4.0L, Auto, 4" FT LA lift, Bilstein 5100's, Currie HD tie-rods, Napa steering stabalizer, Currie lower cntrl arm skids, FT engine/oil skid, FT exhaust, Kilby sterring skid, SkidRow radiator skid, Mastercraft grab handles, Cobra 75WX cb, Wilson 3' ant, trailguide, Mopar iPod adapter, Coverking seat covers, Warn diff guard Last edited by Ejunior2; 05-28-2008 at 01:11 PM.. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Erik,
I was with you in Big Bear. I have a 4" full traction with 33" tires. you can test drive mine any time. i'm in Simi. with the Full Traction you will need the exhaust redone to clear the tri link and a new drive shaft but not the SYE. let me or garth know if you want to test drive. My only complaint with the FT is the front track bar does make a little noise off road. If you can, I would see if you can get the kit without the track bar and buy the Clayton track bar (welding is needed for Clayton track bar) I also added the m-force shocks and rear anti-sway bar. bob |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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teraflex 4" long arm
i just put a 4" long arm teraflex with Bilstein 5150 shocks and teraflex tummy tuck. just point and shoot she'll go there. My jeep is a 04 rubi.
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#11 |
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Registered User
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I have a LJ just not a rubi. That being said I installed by myself in two days the RE 4.5" superflex with all adj.control arms and adj. trackbars and swaped out the 4.5" springs for the 3.5". I also have a 1.25" bl and a 1"mml. This combo clears my 33's very well. I have no vibes at any speed.(I have not been over 75) I have not done a tummy tuck but that is my next build with an SYE and new cv driveshaft. I did the toe in myself and it tracks well and rides almost like stock. The LJ's tend to ride a little better anyway. My LJ now drives like my wifes JK 2door. Its just a little different but still smooth. I went with the monotubes.
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Stu website supporter. http://www.stu-offroad.com/ One of the best jeep websites out there for reference. If you can help please do. http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/environment.htm |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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I have had both the RE and FT kits, both are very good, but I prefer the FT kit due to the size of the arms and heims. If you will only be running 33's, you will not need the BL if you go with the FT 4" or the RE3.5" kit.
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2006 LJ, 38" BFG's on KMC Beadlocks, Sway-A-Way coilovers, FT LA, D60 ProRocks,ARB's,Rock Hard Cage, Prestige Billet Products Etc.. |
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#13 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
I ordered the 4" FT LA kit and got their eshaust with it. Did you check out there Engine skid for the kit?
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Erik 2006 JL Rubicon, white 4.0L, Auto, 4" FT LA lift, Bilstein 5100's, Currie HD tie-rods, Napa steering stabalizer, Currie lower cntrl arm skids, FT engine/oil skid, FT exhaust, Kilby sterring skid, SkidRow radiator skid, Mastercraft grab handles, Cobra 75WX cb, Wilson 3' ant, trailguide, Mopar iPod adapter, Coverking seat covers, Warn diff guard |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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Go Long Arm if you can!
I put the RE 4.5 LA Extream Duty on my 06 Rubi LJ, also running 33"......what a great set up. The stability at highway speeds is perfect. I do agree if you go with a short arm kit buy good shocks......lots of good SA kits out there. The only disadvantge I know of for LA kits is the cost.
As far as the triangulated ( tri-link) rear goes.....great for off road articulation but will wonder/drift considerably more on road. I had a tri link set up on a 99 TJ and it was tough to keep between the lines at 65 mph. |
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#15 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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Erik 2006 JL Rubicon, white 4.0L, Auto, 4" FT LA lift, Bilstein 5100's, Currie HD tie-rods, Napa steering stabalizer, Currie lower cntrl arm skids, FT engine/oil skid, FT exhaust, Kilby sterring skid, SkidRow radiator skid, Mastercraft grab handles, Cobra 75WX cb, Wilson 3' ant, trailguide, Mopar iPod adapter, Coverking seat covers, Warn diff guard |
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