37's with a Dana 30? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 09-02-2006, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
PJTJ
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37's with a Dana 30?

Hey all,

I found a great deal on some MT's 37inch Baja Claws. I really want to get them but i'm wondering if my front dana 30 will hold up. I'm running 35 MT/R's now with no probs!

I was thinking it might if I put in alloy axle shafts and a truss?

I know a 44 and a 30 share the same u-joint which usually is the weak link.

I'm wheeling mostly in rocks.

Any thoughts would be great!


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99 Black Flat Fender TJ

TERALOW 4:1, Teraflex SYE,
35in MT/R's Gale Banks Exhaust, Skyjacker Lift
Poison Spyder Protection, Dana 44
Detroit Locker,Alloy Shafts,Warn M8000
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post #2 of 18 Old 09-02-2006, 09:40 PM
stevensinger
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Be careful after 35s on them, I would look for stronger u-joints though... I agree with them being the weakest link.
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post #3 of 18 Old 09-02-2006, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
PJTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy789
Be careful after 35s on them, I would look for stronger u-joints though... I agree with them being the weakest link.
Well if i went with a stronger joint wouldn't my ring and pinon be the new number 1 on the weak list? I don't know if that would be a good thing.

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99 Black Flat Fender TJ

TERALOW 4:1, Teraflex SYE,
35in MT/R's Gale Banks Exhaust, Skyjacker Lift
Poison Spyder Protection, Dana 44
Detroit Locker,Alloy Shafts,Warn M8000
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post #4 of 18 Old 09-02-2006, 09:55 PM
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personally,I wouldn't run a 37" tire on a D30 without a super kit and ujoint upgrades and maybe a truss,by the time your done though you could of purchased a D44 w/a hub conversion from warn,but that's just me,maybe alloy everything and go easy on it?
I just don't see it being a long term solution for rocks?

"shoot first,we have shovels"
2004 X w/ RESF 4.5- super 44/44 w/arb 35x12.50R15mt/r- all armored up! Warn 9.5 ti(front) 9.5xp(rear) (SOLD)
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post #5 of 18 Old 09-02-2006, 09:59 PM
NH Jeep Junkie
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I think it all depends on your driving style. I have seen (retards) people running 44" swampers on dana 30s without busting them.
IMO, DO IT If you bust you upgrade. At least you'll have some more time to save up.

I am not doing any of this to impress you!
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post #6 of 18 Old 09-02-2006, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
PJTJ
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well if i went with a front 44 that would be

housing = 500
shafts = 450
hub conversion = 900
u-joint upgrade = 300-500

so thats over 2G!

If I built a truss = maybe 75 bucks
shaft upgrade = 500

thats only 575!

Will that hold up?

http://www.twotrackers.org
99 Black Flat Fender TJ

TERALOW 4:1, Teraflex SYE,
35in MT/R's Gale Banks Exhaust, Skyjacker Lift
Poison Spyder Protection, Dana 44
Detroit Locker,Alloy Shafts,Warn M8000
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post #7 of 18 Old 09-02-2006, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
PJTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NH Jeep Junkie
I think it all depends on your driving style. I have seen (retards) people running 44" swampers on dana 30s without busting them.
IMO, DO IT If you bust you upgrade. At least you'll have some more time to save up.
I like that thinking!

I just don't know if my wife would!! Oh, well what she doesn't know can't hurt her!

http://www.twotrackers.org
99 Black Flat Fender TJ

TERALOW 4:1, Teraflex SYE,
35in MT/R's Gale Banks Exhaust, Skyjacker Lift
Poison Spyder Protection, Dana 44
Detroit Locker,Alloy Shafts,Warn M8000
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post #8 of 18 Old 09-02-2006, 10:33 PM
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they always find out

"shoot first,we have shovels"
2004 X w/ RESF 4.5- super 44/44 w/arb 35x12.50R15mt/r- all armored up! Warn 9.5 ti(front) 9.5xp(rear) (SOLD)
1999 Cherokee sport (build in progress)
New toy. ZO6
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post #9 of 18 Old 09-02-2006, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJTJ
well if i went with a front 44 that would be

housing = 500
shafts = 450
hub conversion = 900
u-joint upgrade = 300-500

so thats over 2G!

If I built a truss = maybe 75 bucks
shaft upgrade = 500

thats only 575!

Will that hold up?

Too bad the D44 still has the same lousy U joints that the D30 does.

Find some junkyard shafts as trail spares and be easy on the throttle.

'97 Forest green. ~6" total lift, 8.8, etc. 36" TSL's, winch. You get the drill.
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post #10 of 18 Old 09-02-2006, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BNovak
Too bad the D44 still has the same lousy U joints that the D30 does.

Find some junkyard shafts as trail spares and be easy on the throttle.
You're talking about the 44 out of a Rubicon, I think he's talking about something out of a full width narrowed for a TJ which doesn't share steering knuckles or u joints with a 30. You can build a front 44 for a TJ from a full size Ford truck or Wagoneer.
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post #11 of 18 Old 09-02-2006, 11:19 PM
Jerry Bransford
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With my low ratio axle gearing gearing, sufficient lift height, and goal of converting to an automatic transmission that probably would be a 3-speed, I asked those whose advice I trust about 37" tires for my well-built rig to lower the RPMs after installing that 3-speed automatic. I thought the 37" tires would be a cool solution to slightly lower my engine RPMs from the new 3-speed auto with my present 4.88 axle gearing.

As TJs go, mine's built for strength and durability. Hardened AlloyUSA axleshafts in the rear Dana 44, hardened Warn axleshafts and hubs in my Front D30. Currie tie rod and drag link, steering bracing, RE LA suspension, 4.88 gearing, etc... all seemingly strong enough and geared properly to convert from my present 35" tires to 37" tires. After much counsel against my 37" idea (more for lower RPM reasons for the proposed 3-speed auto), I accepted the group advice to avoid the 37" tire. The Dana 30, steering, etc. just aren't up to 37" tires if you wheel your rig. A friend did go to 37" tires with his equally well built TJ and after a year of constant headaches, went back to 35" tires where his headaches mysteriously disappeared.

Maybe 37" tires would be ok for a street Jeep but if the rig is wheeled in demanding terrain, the Jeep may not hold up all that well.

Just what I learned after having nearly the same thoughts very recently.

Getting Savvy...

When you have a choice, buy American.
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post #12 of 18 Old 09-02-2006, 11:55 PM
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I agree with Jerry, and you may get a good deal on the 37s but in the long run it wont be much of a savings when you break parts. Also dont forget you need to address your brakes espc. with 37s but really at 35s....Id say just build your 30 up and keep your 35s...
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post #13 of 18 Old 09-03-2006, 08:08 AM
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I agree with Jerry completely. With any piece of equipment there is a point where more is not better. 35's on a D30 is already pushing this envolope.

As for the idea of "do it...if it breaks upgrade", that depends on where you are when it breaks. I don't even like traveling with people whose rigs have a high chance of not making it back.


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'01 TJ. 4"Full Traction. 1" BL/MML. 35" BFG Muds. ARB's front & Rear. Full skids. Warn Winch. Lots of other crap!

Last edited by ocezam; 09-03-2006 at 10:14 AM.
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post #14 of 18 Old 09-03-2006, 08:21 AM
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You can only polish that turd so much. 37's will still destroy it eventually.
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post #15 of 18 Old 09-03-2006, 10:10 AM
ErikJordan
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37's are too much for the dana 30. the steering, and brakes are not up to the challlenge.

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What is all of this talk of Savvily designed products?
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