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TJ Wrangler 4" Rough Country Suspension Lift Kits in Grizzly Lockers available at Rockridge4wd.comBds fox ipf 2.0 racing series shocks now available at rock

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Unread 03-24-2011, 04:08 PM   #1
NotThePainter
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35s instead of 33s?

Ok, so I've been looking for a moderately built TJ with 33s (or a stock one with plans for 33s). Thinking 3-4" of lift. Pretty standard stuff.

But now a guy in my area has a rig for sale, '01 TJ, D44 rear with 3.73s, 5 spd, 6 cyl.

And Rusty's Advanced 5.5" lift with adjustable control arms and 35s. SYE, Tom Woods drive shaft.

What sorta cha-ching is my wallet to go see in the future if I buy this? I want lockers for sure (Spartan or Detroit is fine). What's the next thing to break? I'm a newbie at wheelin. Just a few months under my belt with a 4 cyl TJ, unlifted on 31s.

Thanks!

Paul

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Unread 03-24-2011, 04:11 PM   #2
NotThePainter
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I've read here about the chro-molly shafts. Might need a brake upgrade... How about steering?
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Unread 03-24-2011, 04:26 PM   #3
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Steering, gears, brakes, axle shafts, and HP30 front axle at a minimum. Do the research on costs, but it won't be cheap (if you want to do it right).
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Unread 03-24-2011, 04:28 PM   #4
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You can do a rear disc brake upgrade cheap! And a hp dana 30 can be bought for next to nothing in most areas. Just be sure it is the same gear ratio and no vacuum disconnect.
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Unread 03-24-2011, 04:34 PM   #5
NotThePainter
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Steering is something like this:

http://shoplive.rompalicious.com/sto...ase#googlebase

or something more?

The name in brakes seems to be Vanco, any other players?

Is putting shorter springs, say 3.5", and going to 33s reasonable or too much needs to be changed from the 5.5" kit?
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Unread 03-24-2011, 04:35 PM   #6
2005X
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let me ask this, does your wheeling require you to get that extra ".5 of clearance. if i hade a rebuild to do i would have stayed with 33s
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Unread 03-24-2011, 04:38 PM   #7
NotThePainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2005X View Post
let me ask this, does your wheeling require you to get that extra ".5 of clearance. if i hade a rebuild to do i would have stayed with 33s
No, it doesn't. Not many rigs in my area for sale though! Sweet price also. ($7k obo)

Actually, I take that back. One club I run with has stocker, moderate and hard trails. The hard one do require (or strongly suggest) 35s. My close club, that I've never run with, strongly suggests 33s for all runs. I've never run with them even though they are local because my rig wasn't up to snuff.
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Unread 03-24-2011, 05:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616 View Post
You can do a rear disc brake upgrade cheap! And a hp dana 30 can be bought for next to nothing in most areas. Just be sure it is the same gear ratio and no vacuum disconnect.
Rear discs are pointless, the amount of effort and cost vs increased performance isn't worth it. Go either BBK from Vanco or switch out your rotors with Centric and Black Magic pads.

You'll want to go to 4.88 gears so it doesn't matter which gear ratio the HP30 uses, you can swap out the 3.73 carrier from the LP30 and get reverse cut R&P gears for the HP30.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NotThePainter View Post
Steering is something like this:

http://shoplive.rompalicious.com/sto...ase#googlebase

or something more?

The name in brakes seems to be Vanco, any other players?

Is putting shorter springs, say 3.5", and going to 33s reasonable or too much needs to be changed from the 5.5" kit?
Steering needs to at least a thicker tie-rod, draglink, and maybe a upgraded or modded steering box. The product in the link will work but look around for cheaper prices or alternatives (ie. V8 ZJ tie rod and drag link, ect).

Like I said before about brakes: either Vanco BBK or Centric Premium rotors and Black Magic pads, don't worry about upgrading the rear drums to disc, the front does the majority of the stopping.

You can lower it and put 33's if you wish, but ask yourself what you want, the rig is already half way done for 35's, IMHO I see no reason not to finish it.

Just my thoughts.
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Unread 03-24-2011, 06:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross00TJ View Post
Rear discs are pointless, the amount of effort and cost vs increased performance isn't worth it. Go either BBK from Vanco or switch out your rotors with Centric and Black Magic pads.
The performance increase isn't the reason I swapped to discs when I swapped in my 44. It's the simplicity and self-cleaning attribute. Drums totally suck and you can't dispute that. Swapping to discs on 44's is easy and fairly cheap.

As for this TJ, you'll be welcomed to the world of Rustys unbelievably ****ty control arms. And it's a bit on the tall side. Otherwise, go for it and redo what the previous owner did wrong.
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Unread 03-24-2011, 06:42 PM   #10
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The performance increase isn't the reason I swapped to discs when I swapped in my 44. It's the simplicity and self-cleaning attribute. Drums totally suck and you can't dispute that. Swapping to discs on 44's is easy and fairly cheap.

As for this TJ, you'll be welcomed to the world of Rustys unbelievably ****ty control arms. And it's a bit on the tall side. Otherwise, go for it and redo what the previous owner did wrong.
I cant say much about rusty's flex joints. They look on par with currie units. BUT steer clear of rusty's arms with stock bushings. Totally **** and will wear out in a couple months. Its not that the bushings are ****, its just that they arent designed to flex so much.

You will want to regear for 35's. When that happens you can swap out that lp d30 for a bigger axle or you can find a hp d30 housing for around $100. You can swap all of your lp brakes axles steering over to that and get hp d30 gears. Its something I wish I did the first time around.
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Unread 03-24-2011, 06:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I cant say much about rusty's flex joints. They look on par with currie units. BUT steer clear of rusty's arms with stock bushings. Totally **** and will wear out in a couple months. Its not that the bushings are ****, its just that they arent designed to flex so much.
Oh good sir, they are so far from being on par with Currie JJ's it's not even funny.

I hate bushings. I hate Rustys joints every bit as much....here's my vid:


Those arms haven't seen nearly enough action to justify that. The bushing and joint (not just that arm) are completely shot. Hell, the bushing and sleeve were completely separated all around and the joint center ball could move in all directions about 1/16". The Rustys joint uses a hard plastic race and uses adjustable preload. NOT designed for durability whatsoever.
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Unread 03-24-2011, 06:58 PM   #12
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those are the flex joints in that video?
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Unread 03-24-2011, 07:05 PM   #13
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One flex joint, one bushing. The flex joint is at the frame. This is gribbles' TJ.
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Unread 03-24-2011, 08:19 PM   #14
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x2 on the rustys joints! i couldnt even tolerate driving my jeep until i got rid of those piece of crap joints and replaced them with curries
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Unread 03-24-2011, 11:42 PM   #15
Ross00TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotThePainter View Post
Steering is something like this:

http://shoplive.rompalicious.com/sto...ase#googlebase

or something more?

The name in brakes seems to be Vanco, any other players?

Is putting shorter springs, say 3.5", and going to 33s reasonable or too much needs to be changed from the 5.5" kit?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
The performance increase isn't the reason I swapped to discs when I swapped in my 44. It's the simplicity and self-cleaning attribute. Drums totally suck and you can't dispute that. Swapping to discs on 44's is easy and fairly cheap.

As for this TJ, you'll be welcomed to the world of Rustys unbelievably ****ty control arms. And it's a bit on the tall side. Otherwise, go for it and redo what the previous owner did wrong.
I'll give you that, my whole argument was that it is not necessary nor will it solve the problem. I, personally, see no need but I don't do a lot of mud and haven't had a problem with my drums yet. It is easy/cheap, but that's up to the OP to decide if he needs it, I don't know MA's wheeling scene but I'm gonna guess mud.

Just my thoughts. YMMV.
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