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35" Tires on stock brakes? Yes please.
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#31 | |
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#32 |
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I just put 35" Goodyear MT/R's on today so after I drive it around a little Ill report back with my discovery's. I have to say that I wasn't real happy with my brakes performance on the 33"s so this should be interesting.
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Columbus: "You're one of those guys who always has to have a better story than anyone else, aren't you?" Tallahassee: "No way... I knew a guy who was way worse at it than me!" |
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#33 | |
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Web Wheeler
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#34 | |
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so if you had the money you would upgrade your breaks? breaks being the most important thing on your vehicle. so you had the money for 35" tires, 4 kc daylighters, etc. but now you are out? this is what ill never understand. also how will you determine when "right now" is over? |
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#35 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Eastern High Sierra, California
Posts: 2,046
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Just waiting for mrblaine to show up.
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“This isn’t the Old West, because the New West has never arrived. It’s just the West, like Wyatt Earp died yesterday.” ─ Michael Martin Murphey talking about the Eastern Sierra during an interview in 1996. |
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#36 |
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MAIL Crawler.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bennington, Nebraska
Posts: 2,148
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smart. real smart.
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*98 RHD TJ: swapped 4.0L/AX-15/Dana 300, 4.88, AEV 3", LP9"/S88, Grizzly/Detroit, OTK steering, 35" muds... 84:1. *85 CJ-7: GM350/NV4500/D300, SOA on Wags, LP44/9", Aussies, 37" MT/Rs, Staun beadlocks, hi-steer, 110:1... in pieces. NEW and USED parts for sale. PM me. |
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#37 |
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: chehalis, washington
Posts: 2,310
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#38 | |
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Quote:
![]() If your getting at my conclusion being subjective and yours scientific. I have nothing for you.
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Get Savvy |
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#39 |
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Registered User
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Here in Germany I also passed the brake test with stock brakes and 35s.
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#40 |
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Where do you get the popcorn?
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#41 |
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#42 |
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I thought the brakes on my 99 TJ with 31's were weak. Can't imagine running 35's on those brakes and feeling safe..
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#43 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Eastern High Sierra, California
Posts: 2,046
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__________________
“This isn’t the Old West, because the New West has never arrived. It’s just the West, like Wyatt Earp died yesterday.” ─ Michael Martin Murphey talking about the Eastern Sierra during an interview in 1996. |
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#44 | |
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Quote:
There are three key things at work in braking 1. The friction force applied by the pad to the rotor resisting rolling, this results in "brake torque". The amount of torque is linearly proportional to the distance of the pad from the center of rotation (axle). T=r * F 2. The rotational inertia of the wheel/tire assembly. This is proportional to the mass of the tire/wheel assembly and the center of mass relative to the axis of rotation. I=m * r^2 3. The friction of the tire/road and the torque applied by this force. This again is torque (T=r * F) and is in the opposite direction of the brake torque. To stop a vehicle, #1 must oppose #2 and #3. You can easily see by increasing the tire diameter, ALL ELSE EQUAL, the torque due to friction with the road increases (#3 goes up). Since all else has remained the same, stopping distance will increase. Same story with heavier tire/wheel. #2 increases due to an increase in mass. Move the center of mass outward and it increases proportional to r^2. In the track world (where I cut my automotive teeth) it is very common to see people go +1 with rotor sizes if wheels allow. Moving the brake pad out increases brake torque a significant percentage and improves braking assuming you can maintain grip (achieved by going to slicks/DOTRs). The only way moving to larger tires does not increase stopping distance is if you are already traction limited, and by this I do not mean in a stab-at-the-brakes lockup condition, I mean in a hard braking threshold condition. If you are not traction limited, increasing tire diameter WILL NECESSARILY decrease braking effectiveness. Cheers! Jon
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'03 Sport, Patriot Blue '04 C5 Corvette |
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#45 | |
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So to answer your question, when these brakes start to loose there grip... I'll up grade. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. |
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