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Unread 10-25-2009, 06:34 PM   #1
kbuck90
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35 inch tires with a dana 35???

i was wondering if i could do this....i have a 05 tj with a RC 3.25 suspension inch lift with a dana 35 rear and dana 30 front....i am running 33s now with stock 3:07 gears. im looking to get a bigger lift soon and upgrading to 35 inch tires...i hear that the dana 35 wont hold up to well with 35 inch tires...i wanted to know if anyone has a set up similar to this and if i would be at high risk of blowing out an axle....please help me out here

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Unread 10-25-2009, 06:45 PM   #2
never monday
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Seems like most people want 35’s for street or trail. I wrote this as a reference guide on what you’ll need to do it right. Yes, you can do it half way, or many other variations to these suggestions.

The preferred method
5-6” of lift.
This can be all suspension or a combination of suspension and body. If your going SL/BL most will say 4” SL and 1” BL. It could be done with a 2” budget boost and a 3” BL(but why).
Short or long arms are a personal choice. Stock arm’s aren’t an option above 3” of lift. You’ll need something with adjustment to recenter the axle.

Slip yoke eliminator and double Cardan drive shaft. Unless you have a Rubicon then just a CV shaft.

Decrease the up travel to keep the tires out of the fenders.
This can be done by lowering the stock bump stops or raising them from the bottom with hockey pucks. Ideally closing the gap on both the top and bottom is more effective.

Wheels,
Due to the most common width of 12.50 on 35” tires. Stock Jeep wheels won’t work well. You’ll want an 8” wide wheel with 4” of back spacing of less.

Axles
A stock Dana 35c won't last very long with the 35's. A Super kit. A Dana 44 replacement or 8.8 replacement.
A stock Dana 30 low pinion can be made to last with chrome molly shafts If your not over the edge hard core. A better option would be a High pinion Dana 30 from Cherokee with chrome molly shafts or the Super30 kit.
Rubicon 44's
Bring a different set of issues than the 30/35. The rear 44 will hold up fine stock. But it's always a good idea to upgrade the shafts to chromemoly.
The front 44 being a hybrid 44/30 presents some other issues. It has 30 spline inner shafts. But the U-joints, outer shafts and unit bearings are all D30. So that makes the outer shaft a 27 spline. At one time Alloy USA was selling a 30 spline unit bearing and outer shaft for the 30 and R44. Hopefully this will return to the market. As always chromemoly shafts will help.
The R44 Front is still a low pinion design and under severe strain can have similar failures to the LP30.
The 4.10 gears will have to go for anyone that doesn't live where it's flat.


Gears
4.88 for for manual transmissions in 4 or 6 cyl TJ's and 4 spd autos
4.56 for 3spd automatics
Some of the Rubicon owners have reported good results with 5.13 gears and 6spd man or 4spd auto.

Steering,
Stock steering components are weak. Upgrade the steering to a heavy duty drag link and tie rod at least. You might find the front tires rubbing the lower control arms or sway bar. This can be fixed by spacing out the steering stop bolt with washers.

Brakes
I’m going to split this further into Automatic Vs Stick
Automatic, Upgrade them to Vanco.
Stick, They can work. But having upgraded brakes only makes sense.
Many people have reported good results from changing rotors and using better pads like EBC yellows.
Adding rear disk helps a little, but not significantly enough to justify the expense.

Tire coverage
Please check with you local state regs. You might need bigger flares and mud flaps.

Spare storage
A 35 is too big to ride on a stock carrier even with an extension. It will cause damage to the tailgate.
Get a frame or bumper mounted carrier. Or some other way to carry a spare.

LCG method

2.5” of lift or less
tube fenders or highline kit
trim the tub
steering as above
brakes as above
wheels and tires as above
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Unread 10-25-2009, 06:46 PM   #3
incagoldjeep
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you will have a higher risk of blowing an axle for sure. but i run 35s on my d 35 and its been lasting a good while and havent had any problems so far. i do wheel it and i dont push it as hard as i want to because i dont wanna blow it but you just need to know your limitations with it. i also have 4:56 gears in it but some ppl say 4:88 is better.
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Unread 10-25-2009, 06:49 PM   #4
RogueSpear2023
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It can be done on a D35 but it isn't recommended. You run a large risk at breaking an axle. So have run 35s for years without any problems others don't make it out of the driveway it kind of a crap shoot on how well Chrysler built your D35 that day.
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Unread 10-25-2009, 06:53 PM   #5
Kenbo-Slice
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First thing..... Re-gear your axles. If you want to keep cost down and run 35's with no problem get a S35 (from superior). You don't wan't to run 3.07 gears with 35" tires. I don't care what kind of axles you have in that case. The Jeep would be beyond slow, and wouldn't go up a hill in any gear higher than 3rd.
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Unread 10-25-2009, 06:53 PM   #6
Jerry Bransford
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The short answer is 'no', I would not run 35" tires on a stock Dana 35c axle. The OE axle shafts are just not up to that big of a tire or 33" tires with a locker.
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Unread 10-25-2009, 07:06 PM   #7
sportcoupe
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You can run 35" tires with a D35 if you stay on-road only. I've seen it done and with 3.07 gears to boot.
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Unread 10-25-2009, 07:09 PM   #8
johnny9
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everyones answer is definitly correct..
but ive said this before..ive been doing it a long time..2 times a month i climb 250 ft hills that are no joke,and some really steep stuff along with some big rocks and an acasionall flex on a car..
i crawl everything slowly and take it easy.
i have,and have had for a while,stock arms,driveshaft,no sye and a 4 inch lift with 35,s...im easy on it mostly but it works and flexis more than i need and sometimes wonder if i really need a long arm

but i do need adjustable arms,just havent done it yet..but been doing it like this a long time w/out problems..i also still have the 3.07 gears that work fine in low range only..new axles are in the works..

some will,some wont,some do and some dont

if you do be extra carefull on the skinny pedal
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Unread 10-25-2009, 07:13 PM   #9
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3.07's in low range isn't crawling, even with 35's
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Unread 10-25-2009, 07:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportcoupe View Post
You can run 35" tires with a D35 if you stay on-road only. I've seen it done and with 3.07 gears to boot.
I hope it wasn't you who did it. 3.07's with 33's is bad. 3.07's with 35s is ridiculous. I know it can physically be done, it just isn't a good idea. Save the OP some frustration and don't put ideas in his head that won't have pleasurable outcomes. 35's on stock everything brakes, steering, gears and engine are not a good mix. That is all there is to it.
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Unread 10-25-2009, 07:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by never monday View Post
3.07's in low range isn't crawling, even with 35's
to a florida cracker it is lol..idle up most stuff..

when my 3.07,s leave the red light im useually ahead of all the traffic also..
with 140,000 miles it still runs great.

when i get the 4.56 axles finished i will really be haveing fun then you say,haha

no lockers and ive been where ive seen rubicons stuck,many times..
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Unread 10-25-2009, 10:37 PM   #12
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Unread 10-25-2009, 11:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by never monday View Post
Seems like most people want 35’s for street or trail. I wrote this as a reference guide on what you’ll need to do it right. Yes, you can do it half way, or many other variations to these suggestions.

The preferred method
5-6” of lift.
This can be all suspension or a combination of suspension and body. If your going SL/BL most will say 4” SL and 1” BL. It could be done with a 2” budget boost and a 3” BL(but why).
Short or long arms are a personal choice. Stock arm’s aren’t an option above 3” of lift. You’ll need something with adjustment to recenter the axle.

Slip yoke eliminator and double Cardan drive shaft. Unless you have a Rubicon then just a CV shaft.

Decrease the up travel to keep the tires out of the fenders.
This can be done by lowering the stock bump stops or raising them from the bottom with hockey pucks. Ideally closing the gap on both the top and bottom is more effective.

Wheels,
Due to the most common width of 12.50 on 35” tires. Stock Jeep wheels won’t work well. You’ll want an 8” wide wheel with 4” of back spacing of less.

Axles
A stock Dana 35c won't last very long with the 35's. A Super kit. A Dana 44 replacement or 8.8 replacement.
A stock Dana 30 low pinion can be made to last with chrome molly shafts If your not over the edge hard core. A better option would be a High pinion Dana 30 from Cherokee with chrome molly shafts or the Super30 kit.
Rubicon 44's
Bring a different set of issues than the 30/35. The rear 44 will hold up fine stock. But it's always a good idea to upgrade the shafts to chromemoly.
The front 44 being a hybrid 44/30 presents some other issues. It has 30 spline inner shafts. But the U-joints, outer shafts and unit bearings are all D30. So that makes the outer shaft a 27 spline. At one time Alloy USA was selling a 30 spline unit bearing and outer shaft for the 30 and R44. Hopefully this will return to the market. As always chromemoly shafts will help.
The R44 Front is still a low pinion design and under severe strain can have similar failures to the LP30.
The 4.10 gears will have to go for anyone that doesn't live where it's flat.


Gears
4.88 for for manual transmissions in 4 or 6 cyl TJ's and 4 spd autos
4.56 for 3spd automatics
Some of the Rubicon owners have reported good results with 5.13 gears and 6spd man or 4spd auto.

Steering,
Stock steering components are weak. Upgrade the steering to a heavy duty drag link and tie rod at least. You might find the front tires rubbing the lower control arms or sway bar. This can be fixed by spacing out the steering stop bolt with washers.

Brakes
I’m going to split this further into Automatic Vs Stick
Automatic, Upgrade them to Vanco.
Stick, They can work. But having upgraded brakes only makes sense.
Many people have reported good results from changing rotors and using better pads like EBC yellows.
Adding rear disk helps a little, but not significantly enough to justify the expense.

Tire coverage
Please check with you local state regs. You might need bigger flares and mud flaps.

Spare storage
A 35 is too big to ride on a stock carrier even with an extension. It will cause damage to the tailgate.
Get a frame or bumper mounted carrier. Or some other way to carry a spare.

LCG method

2.5” of lift or less
tube fenders or highline kit
trim the tub
steering as above
brakes as above
wheels and tires as above
If this isn't already a sticky, it should be. Nice work NM.
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Unread 10-26-2009, 12:28 AM   #14
2000jeeper
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I am running 35's on my stock 4.10 d35. Yes it is mostly street driven right now it does see some mild off roading nothing to wild as i dont want to stress nthe d35 much more. Other then that it has held up good so far. will get replaced tho when i get the funds to finish my 8.8
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Unread 10-26-2009, 03:27 AM   #15
TheBoogieman
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I did it for a couple years with an open dif with no problems.I planned on a S35 with c-clip eliminator when/if it broke.
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