[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by Fargo

OK I took my measurements. I am at 10.5 on the lowest tip of the front control arm bracket and 10.0 at the lowest point on the tranny skid. So my skid is 1/2" lower than my lowest point on the control arm.

Your control arm is 9.5 and your tummy tuck is 11.25 so your skid is 1.75" higher. So it seems that you gained about 2.25"

Is yours the Rockman setup? Also I thought you had a 2" lift? How is my stock Jeep sitting 1" taller than yours.

I have a 2.5" OME sitting on the floor of my apartment waiting to be installed I'm sitting lower than you because I'm at 50k miles, 1/2 tread BFGs, have a hard top, 65 lbs of front bumper, 120 lbs of rear bumper, 60lbs of gas tank skid, 150lbs of roll cage, 50lbs in other skids, 50lbs of tools and another 30lbs in bike rack and bike hanging off the hitch - all weight you don't have...my Jeep is fat and sagging. I don't have my engine skid on in this picture, which would drop my front end another 1/4"-3/8". As stated before, I do NOT have the Rokmen setup - I've got a JeepMedic setup. Rokmen is the closest thing to JeepMedic on the market today. In that pic its hard to tell, but my front control arms aren't even level anymore - they're almost 'negative'. Also my LJ came with 129AB front springs, but later LJ's came with 130AA front springs - I'm sure you've got those (higher spring rate)..

[Fargo]

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

I have a 2.5" OME sitting on the floor of my apartment waiting to be installed I'm sitting lower than you because I'm at 50k miles, 1/2 tread BFGs, have a hard top, 65 lbs of front bumper, 120 lbs of rear bumper, 60lbs of gas tank skid, 150lbs of roll cage, 50lbs in other skids, 50lbs of tools and another 30lbs in bike rack and bike hanging off the hitch - all weight you don't have...my Jeep is fat and sagging. I don't have my engine skid on in this picture, which would drop my front end another 1/4"-3/8". As stated before, I do NOT have the Rokmen setup - I've got a JeepMedic setup. Rokmen is the closest thing to JeepMedic on the market today. In that pic its hard to tell, but my front control arms aren't even level anymore - they're almost 'negative'. Also my LJ came with 129AB front springs, but later LJ's came with 130AA front springs - I'm sure you've got those (higher spring rate)..

Yep that'll do it. I do have the hard top on my LJ but it is all stock with no armor and it is a Rubicon with pretty decent tread. So I have stiffer springs and my understanding is that the RUbi shocks give a little lift too. I didn't read your profile close enough when I first looked at it. It though you had the OMEs installed. That was the majority of my confusion.

Anyway, I like the TT idea. I was also really sold on the idea of 265s this morning, but there is still a part of me that would love to go big just because it looks so dang cool!

[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by Fargo

Anyway, I like the TT idea. I was also really sold on the idea of 265s this morning, but there is still a part of me that would love to go big just because it looks so dang cool!

personally, i think a TT is the way to go. if you do spacers now, you'll be dragging and wishing you had a TT. if you do the TT, you'll still drag a little bit, but at least you'll know you're not going to damage anything because of the super beef. you could also add a BB for cheap at the same time you do the BL & TT, and you can run your 285s. Then when you get the money after the economy stops being crappy, you can remove the BB and install the 2.5" lift kit of your choice. Used BB spacers are always cheap if you watch the forum and wait long enough. Put on shocks of your choice and you're golden.

[06rubicon]

Fargo, If you do the TT and BL, do a MML at the same time....It helps with driveline angles and fan shroud alignment. If you have AC you will have to take three extra bolts out on the drivers side for the MML. The long bolt on the motor mount will hit the AC pump...unbolt the MM from the engine block (3 bolts) and put the long bolt in the other way. Very Easy. also have the tranny mounts loose during the process. Just my lessons learned.
By the way 265's actually made my rubi 6-speed a better daily driver because of the low first gear and 410's. I dont have any worries going 285's

Have Fun anyway you go!

[Fargo]

Originally Posted by 06rubicon

Fargo, If you do the TT and BL, do a MML at the same time....It helps with driveline angles and fan shroud alignment. If you have AC you will have to take three extra bolts out on the drivers side for the MML. The long bolt on the motor mount will hit the AC pump...unbolt the MM from the engine block (3 bolts) and put the long bolt in the other way. Very Easy. also have the tranny mounts loose during the process. Just my lessons learned.
By the way 265's actually made my rubi 6-speed a better daily driver because of the low first gear and 410's. I dont have any worries going 285's

Have Fun anyway you go!

Thanks for the tips. I planned on doing the MML right away with the body lift. I would also likely do a Tummy tuck right way too. Otherwise its my understanding that I will be fighting problems with transfercase linkages as well as shifting with the 6spd.

[BlackBellamy]

When I had 31s all I could think of were the 33s I was going to get. Now that I have the 33s I can't wait for them to wear so I can have an excuse for some 35s.

/sigh

[mpyusko]

I read the OP, and don't really feel like reading 3 pages of discussion, so if it's repeating someone else then great, another "vote". If it's not, then it's one more thing to consider.

When I built my Jeep, I was leaning toward s the 34x9.5x15's that Interco makes. In the process of researching, someone made a very good point that made me go with the 33x12.5x15's that I currently run. It boiled down to this....

You have one spare tire mounted on your jeep. What happens if you get two or more flats and you need to get off the trail? There are far more people running 33's and 35's, so your chances of being lent a spare are extremely good. Odd sizes are harder to come by in an emergency and you can't run two different sizes in 4WD.

That made me opt for the 33's since moving to 35's would be a lot more expensive, both in tire cost and jeep mods to fit them. Also consider, when you run the trails, you air-down. That extra half-inch can come in really handy.

Hope this helps.

[ptra]

dont 33's also require regearing?

[bigj1974]

the bigger tires also come in handy when you stick an 8.8 in the rear with that huge pumpkin and bigger tubes.

[Fargo]

Originally Posted by mpyusko

I read the OP, and don't really feel like reading 3 pages of discussion, so if it's repeating someone else then great, another "vote". If it's not, then it's one more thing to consider.

When I built my Jeep, I was leaning toward s the 34x9.5x15's that Interco makes. In the process of researching, someone made a very good point that made me go with the 33x12.5x15's that I currently run. It boiled down to this....

You have one spare tire mounted on your jeep. What happens if you get two or more flats and you need to get off the trail? There are far more people running 33's and 35's, so your chances of being lent a spare are extremely good. Odd sizes are harder to come by in an emergency and you can't run two different sizes in 4WD.

That made me opt for the 33's since moving to 35's would be a lot more expensive, both in tire cost and jeep mods to fit them. Also consider, when you run the trails, you air-down. That extra half-inch can come in really handy.

Hope this helps.

Thank you. That hadn't been posted yet, but it was something that crossed my mind. Maybe I need to think about it a little more, its a good point.

[bigj1974]

Originally Posted by ptra

dont 33's also require regearing?

well, I guess you don't HAVE to re-gear, but it sure makes your Jeep fun to drive again.

when you go to any tire bigger than stock, it drains power from your Jeep.

lower gears helps with that.

[Fargo]

Originally Posted by bigj1974

the bigger tires also come in handy when you stick an 8.8 in the rear with that huge pumpkin and bigger tubes.

I purchased a Rubicon exactly so I don't have to do that. The wheeling I do once a year will never require that much Jeep.

ptra - I have a Rubicon. It has factory 4.10 gears so it is already geared for 33s.

[mpyusko]

Yes, and no. I have a 4cyl and I didn't, but I lost a lost of highway power. I replaced the speedometer gear (less than $20) to fix the calibration issue. If I wanted the factory feel back I would need to re-gear from 4.11 to 4.88. Then I would also be able to use the factory speedo gear too. (a re-gear is planned, so I didn't toss the original speedo gear)

[bigj1974]

Originally Posted by Fargo

I purchased a Rubicon exactly so I don't have to do that. The wheeling I do once a year will never require that much Jeep.

I hear ya. I think if I had to do it all over again, I'd have just gotten a Rubi to begin with. but.

with what I paid for the Jeep on top of the mods....it was less than a Rubi...and when I was shopping around in 2005, Rubis were WAY expensive, even used. dealerships were still asking like 3 or 4 grand more than I would have parted with. Even Sport models they were asking 16 or sometimes 18 grand. Carmax was cheaper, but not much.

got mine for 11k, paid off in 3 years, mods all paid off, too.

for now.... :-)

[TJineering]

They'res alot more options available for 33's so they're preferable. If your happy with your 32's then no need to swap.