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Old 02-03-2009, 12:01 PM   #61
jmalys
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Haha

Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder6 View Post
you'll actually find that the size of your tire actually shrinks massively about 2 months after you put it on your jeep. i have "35" inch tires but i can walk out side and swear to god they're 31's. i believe a step to 37s are in order to cure this awful plague. i hear once you get to 37's your tires stop shrinking mysteriously.

with that said, the HUGE jump you feel you're about to take will only seem massive till you're used to it and then you'll be once again questioning if the next size tire is all its cracked up to be. just be prepared to buy other things than tires when you make your jump to 35's
This is quite true. My 32"s look really really tiny...especially when most of the folks in my jeep club have 35"-37"s. If I ever go that big, I think I will need to win the lottery.

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Old 02-03-2009, 12:09 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by quattrogato View Post
Just a Colorado guy here with over 35 years of Jeeping experience - unless you want to take on trails like Spring Creek, Holy Cross, Iron Chest and the like you don't NEED to do anything. A stock Jeep will handle 75+ percent of all the available terrain out here with no issues to speak of.

I have been very fortunate to have started wheeling here with my folks way back in 1972 in a brand spankin' new CJ5 that remained totally stock for over 90 percent of the time we owned it, and we did practically any Colorado trail you care to name short of the extreme top end types like I mentioned above. That CJ was built by cavemen and had about the same level of equipment as a Conestoga wagon compared to the TJ I wheel now.

So, did I upgrade my TJ? Yeah I did, but mostly to provide a really healthy margin of error on the trail as I wheel alone 9 times at of 10 and have always done so – I just don’t like groups. So upgrade if it suits your needs, but don’t for a minute think you’d get out here and not be able to wheel if you don’t. As somebody else mentioned elsewhere, go to TrailDamage.com and scope out the Colorado trail list, it’s a great site for planning a trip.
Thanks for your post. I appreciate hearing the thoughts of someone who has been wheeling for a long time in the area I am thinking about. I understand the benefits of bigger tires and tummy tucks. But at this point I just really need to keep finances in check and keep the Jeep drivable. If I go too big and heavy, the Jeep will handle terrible and I will never be able to afford to go any where with it anyway. Sure it might draw lots of stares and envy from others on the forum, but what do I care what they think. I'm not trying to impress anyone. I am just trying to plan my best setup. If I can wheel 75% of the trails in a stock Jeep then that's all I really need. I will not likely ever do the difficult trails. The trail riding I will be doing will be on family vacations. I'm sure the wife and kids will find no joy in walking along a trail while I drive over big rocks. That just wouldn't be fun for them. But they might enjoy a nice slow ride along a rugged mountain trail taking in some beautifull scenery on the way to a hiking trail that few people get to see or hike. That is my need. But I still plan on moving up to 32" just to gain a little extra and hey it looks better>

Right now I am really thinking that my setup will be for 32" tires. With that in mind I have two plans that I am considering.

Plan A - Cheap, simple, light

265/75/16 mud tires on Moab rims
2" Coil spring suspension lift (likely BDS or OME)


Plan B - Expensive, complicated, heavy (but armored)

265/75/16 mud tires on Moab rims
1" Body lift with tummy tuck
1" Spring spacer

From my research either setup should work fine with 265s. If I ever want to run 33s later, both plans complement each other and I just add the 2nd plan to my current install.

Plan A would be the easiest. Just install springs and shocks and go.

Plan B could be more difficult and expensive to install the Tummy tuck and drive shafts and all the headaches that TT and BLs can cause. It also adds considerable weight. But it would give me a more protected Jeep.

Anyway, I feel pretty good about either of these plans right now. I tend to lean towards plan A just for its simplicity and low cost.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
...there's very little that is more permanent than a temporary solution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oman Jeep
Go with quality and cry once. Go cheap and cry often. Take your pick ;)
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Old 02-03-2009, 12:13 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargo View Post
Thanks for your post. I appreciate hearing the thoughts of someone who has been wheeling for a long time in the area I am thinking about. I understand the benefits of bigger tires and tummy tucks. But at this point I just really need to keep finances in check and keep the Jeep drivable. If I go too big and heavy, the Jeep will handle terrible and I will never be able to afford to go any where with it anyway. Sure it might draw lots of stares and envy from others on the forum, but what do I care what they think. I'm not trying to impress anyone. I am just trying to plan my best setup. If I can wheel 75% of the trails in a stock Jeep then that's all I really need. I will not likely ever do the difficult trails. The trail riding I will be doing will be on family vacations. I'm sure the wife and kids will find no joy in walking along a trail while I drive over big rocks. That just wouldn't be fun for them. But they might enjoy a nice slow ride along a rugged mountain trail taking in some beautifull scenery on the way to a hiking trail that few people get to see or hike. That is my need. But I still plan on moving up to 32" just to gain a little extra and hey it looks better>

Right now I am really thinking that my setup will be for 32" tires. With that in mind I have two plans that I am considering.

Plan A - Cheap, simple, light

265/75/16 mud tires on Moab rims
2" Coil spring suspension lift (likely BDS or OME)


Plan B - Expensive, complicated, heavy (but armored)

265/75/16 mud tires on Moab rims
1" Body lift with tummy tuck
1" Spring spacer

From my research either setup should work fine with 265s. If I ever want to run 33s later, both plans complement each other and I just add the 2nd plan to my current install.

Plan A would be the easiest. Just install springs and shocks and go.

Plan B could be more difficult and expensive to install the Tummy tuck and drive shafts and all the headaches that TT and BLs can cause. It also adds considerable weight. But it would give me a more protected Jeep.

Anyway, I feel pretty good about either of these plans right now. I tend to lean towards plan A just for its simplicity and low cost.
You must be really fast at typing.
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Old 02-03-2009, 12:17 PM   #64
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With regard to plan B - on an LJ there is no mods you need to make for a TT. stock driveshafts work fine, no exhaust mods, just bolt it up and with the BL/MML combo you don't even have to adjust the t-case linkage.

good luck with whatever you pick!
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Old 02-03-2009, 12:49 PM   #65
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I would try option #2 without the spring spacers, 4" Xenon flares are another good option for tire clearence. But the tummy tuck is a huge value. also with 32" tires get some good dif covers.
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Old 02-03-2009, 12:51 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
With regard to plan B - on an LJ there is no mods you need to make for a TT. stock driveshafts work fine, no exhaust mods, just bolt it up and with the BL/MML combo you don't even have to adjust the t-case linkage.

good luck with whatever you pick!
That would be nice if that was true. That would cut the cost and headache of a TT down quite a bit. But I just read a post the other day of someone who put one on an LJ with no lift and he had vibes. I think it would be a pretty rare case, but that would be my luck.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
...there's very little that is more permanent than a temporary solution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oman Jeep
Go with quality and cry once. Go cheap and cry often. Take your pick ;)
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Old 02-03-2009, 01:13 PM   #67
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Fargo, slight threadjack but one that seems appropriate. Someone said that a TT will stiffen the frame. Is this going to make a noticeable difference in road handling and comfort? I'm looking at a similar set up to Fargo's for my LJ.
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Old 02-03-2009, 01:17 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by Fargo View Post
That would be nice if that was true. That would cut the cost and headache of a TT down quite a bit. But I just read a post the other day of someone who put one on an LJ with no lift and he had vibes. I think it would be a pretty rare case, but that would be my luck.
I've got an LJ, TT with an NP231J (no SYE) and i have no vibes. You've got a NV241OR, which doesn't require a SYE and has a longer driveshaft - you'll definitely be fine. I have no exhaust modifications, other than a little crow bar work to keep the downpipe from rattling against the pass side upper control arm mount. I've also got a 1.25" JKS BL and 1" Currie MML. There are two sources of vibes in my setup - poly MML and the engine skid. The poly MML only introduces a slight vibe at idle, while in Drive at a stop light. Once I hit the gas or put the trans in N, the vibes completely disappear. The engine skid however does transmit some engine vibes. The front supports on the engine skid will mount to the underside of the motor mounts, but its not bad, again - just a slight butt massage while stopped at a light. You won't notice anything at all because you've got a 6-speed - you're engine isn't powering a torque converter at idle like mine, your foot is on the clutch. I have absolutely no vibes on the road or highway at any speeds. My mom has a bone stock 06 LJ so i've got a good comparison point for my modified 04, and she even commented that mine rides better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MCDavis View Post
Fargo, slight threadjack but one that seems appropriate. Someone said that a TT will stiffen the frame. Is this going to make a noticeable difference in road handling and comfort? I'm looking at a similar set up to Fargo's for my LJ.
no but you will sure notice it off-road when you go to full flex. its hard to explain, but you feel a big difference when flexing off road - the suspenion does the work and the frame doesn't twist or torque.
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Old 02-03-2009, 01:26 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
I've got an LJ, TT with an NP231J (no SYE) and i have no vibes. You've got a NV241OR, which doesn't require a SYE and has a longer driveshaft - you'll definitely be fine. I have no exhaust modifications, other than a little crow bar work to keep the downpipe from rattling against the pass side upper control arm mount. I've also got a 1.25" JKS BL and 1" Currie MML. There are two sources of vibes in my setup - poly MML and the engine skid. The poly MML only introduces a slight vibe at idle, while in Drive at a stop light. Once I hit the gas or put the trans in N, the vibes completely disappear. The engine skid however does transmit some engine vibes. The front supports on the engine skid will mount to the underside of the motor mounts, but its not bad, again - just a slight butt massage while stopped at a light. You won't notice anything at all because you've got a 6-speed - you're engine isn't powering a torque converter at idle like mine, your foot is on the clutch. I have absolutely no vibes on the road or highway at any speeds. My mom has a bone stock 06 LJ so i've got a good comparison point for my modified 04, and she even commented that mine rides better.


no but you will sure notice it off-road when you go to full flex. its hard to explain, but you feel a big difference when flexing off road - the suspenion does the work and the frame doesn't twist or torque.
I don't want to argue the point with you. I tend to think you are right and I won't have problems. Then I read something like this thread where the guy had problems with his TT and stock suspension. It just makes me scratch my head and ask myself if I'm really ready to do all that is required if everything that can go wrong does go wrong.

Read post #34
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/whats-best-tummy-tuck-skid-what-cv-shaft-get-etc-565432-post6487648/#post6487648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
...there's very little that is more permanent than a temporary solution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oman Jeep
Go with quality and cry once. Go cheap and cry often. Take your pick ;)
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Old 02-03-2009, 01:34 PM   #70
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the 265 is really closer to a 31 and the 285 to a 32 and a 305 a 33. my buddie has 32 11.5 15 and i ave 285 70 17 and there really about the same.
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Old 02-03-2009, 01:55 PM   #71
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the 265 is really closer to a 31 and the 285 to a 32 and a 305 a 33. my buddie has 32 11.5 15 and i ave 285 70 17 and there really about the same.
Sizes will vary by brand, but just to use a common tire for comparison. Here is how a BFG AT sizes breaks down. (info from tirerack.com)


32x11.5x15 = 31.7
265/75/16 = 31.7

33x12x15 = 32.7
285/75/16 = 33

I think its fair to call a 265 a 32" tire and a 285 a 33" tire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
...there's very little that is more permanent than a temporary solution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oman Jeep
Go with quality and cry once. Go cheap and cry often. Take your pick ;)
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Old 02-03-2009, 03:12 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by Fargo View Post
I don't want to argue the point with you. I tend to think you are right and I won't have problems. Then I read something like this thread where the guy had problems with his TT and stock suspension. It just makes me scratch my head and ask myself if I'm really ready to do all that is required if everything that can go wrong does go wrong.

Read post #34
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6487648#post6487648
interesting. doesn't appear to have been a deal breaker tho, especially if he didn't even notice it.

Good luck with your choice either way You gotta do what you feel is right for your Jeep.
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Old 02-03-2009, 03:40 PM   #73
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really, dont worry about vibrations, the LJ is long enough that no matter what you do you wont have vibes until you do something extreme. most people get vibrations because of poorly balanced tires and they dont realize it.

as a foreword, places like Redrock4x4.com will throw in a new Rear driveshaft if you order certain suspensions, for example they threw in my driveshaft at a massive discount (almost free) when i ordered my suspension from them.

i'll say this again, everything you're thinking about right now is so extreme its off the charts. but once you do it and you're used to it you'll wonder why you even spent time asking yourself if was the right thing to do.
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When is the last time you saw a fully installed upper front control arm pointing straight down?

Really?
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Old 02-03-2009, 04:19 PM   #74
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I have a Short wheelbase Rubi with 2" springs, 1" BL, 1" MML and 265/75/16 BFG muds. I am working towards 285/75/16's. I just installed Xenon 4" flares and if I were to keep my 32's I would lose the 2" springs and get a TT. That transfer case skid and the fuel tank skid are my biggest problems off road. Your plan B has almost no wasted money if you go more extreme in the future. With plan A you may end up needing adjustable track bars to center your axles (I did) and still wanting that TT (I do). The long wheelbase makes the transfer case skid a bigger problem off road but makes the TT an easy install. With the rubi t-case and LJ driveline you should not see any vibes with Plan A or B.

I'm just reposting this fro 06rubicon. IT was posted in the thread linked above.

I tend to agree with you on that and I like the idea of going the TT route. My biggest hesitation besides worrying about vibes and driveshafts is just the extra weight. I'm hoping to keep my Jeep light, but this might be a worthwhile trade off. The clearance would sure be nice. Do you think your 265s would fit ok with only the body lift and no suspension lift?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
...there's very little that is more permanent than a temporary solution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oman Jeep
Go with quality and cry once. Go cheap and cry often. Take your pick ;)
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Old 02-03-2009, 04:29 PM   #75
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don't worry about the weight, you will not notice a difference. the benefits FAR outweigh the negatives. i'll post pictures of measurements of my TT when I get home. The lowest point on my TT is 2" higher than the bottom of the lower control arm mounts. Measure the lowest point on your t-case skid and we'll compare numbers.
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