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Old 03-10-2009, 07:43 AM   #1
mud chicken
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33's or 35's

Well I need tires and I am having a delema 33's or 35's? I am running D30 w/4.88 gears up front and a D35 w/4.88 gears in the rear. I also have a super35 kit w/ Detroit locker. It is crazy on 33's but I can live with it. I have enough lift to run 35's.
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I am not a crazy wheeler, I have been very lucky not to ever break anything on the trails with the current set-up. I do not want to make it a time bomb on the trails but I would really love to run 35's PLEASE help me make up my mind. Pros and Cons if any.
Thanks!!

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Old 03-10-2009, 07:53 AM   #2
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If you have the space and the gears already to run 35's then why not run 35's? I know that is what I would do at least.

Cheers,

Josh
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:54 AM   #3
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35's and don't look back.With your S35,you won't break anything.I never even broke my d35 with my 35's.33's look tiny after having 35's.
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:32 AM   #4
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The main thing that worries me with 35's is I hear people talking about the steering components with the 35's.
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3.5" RE lift JKS 1.25" BL 1" MML Poison Spyder trail stinger A to Z rockers & rear bumper w/ tire carrier 33"x12.50 BFG MT on black soft 8's(soon to be 35's)

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Old 03-10-2009, 08:34 AM   #5
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with a S35 youre good to go for 35's. get the bigger tires and modify your bump stops.
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
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The main thing that worries me with 35's is I hear people talking about the steering components with the 35's.
so upgrade your steering

and rear axle

and driveshaft

and brakes
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:35 AM   #7
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Quote:
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The main thing that worries me with 35's is I hear people talking about the steering components with the 35's.
for that id say get a Currie kit.
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:36 AM   #8
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Quote:
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The main thing that worries me with 35's is I hear people talking about the steering components with the 35's.
You might want to beef up your tie rod and drag link but that's all.I didn't even do that and never had a problem.
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:36 AM   #9
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Quote:
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so upgrade your steering

and rear axle

and driveshaft

and brakes
no need to upgrade the rear axle. its plenty strong enough.
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Old 03-10-2009, 10:16 AM   #10
mud chicken
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upgrade the driveshaft?
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4.0 5spd Flowmaster 40 series cat-back super turdy5 w/detroit locker and 4.88 gears.
3.5" RE lift JKS 1.25" BL 1" MML Poison Spyder trail stinger A to Z rockers & rear bumper w/ tire carrier 33"x12.50 BFG MT on black soft 8's(soon to be 35's)

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Old 03-10-2009, 10:19 AM   #11
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If you have sufficient lift, you might as well go 35".
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Old 03-10-2009, 10:23 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mud chicken View Post
upgrade the driveshaft?
You could gain clearance by removing the t-case drop that you are running and installing a CV driveshaft. That would also help with driveline vibration.
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Old 03-10-2009, 10:27 AM   #13
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You could gain clearance by removing the t-case drop that you are running and installing a CV driveshaft. That would also help with driveline vibration.
I see. I have all the parts sitting in my shop for over a year now. That will be going on very soon. I keep putting it off because as my buds put it "no sack" But it will be done soon.
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4.0 5spd Flowmaster 40 series cat-back super turdy5 w/detroit locker and 4.88 gears.
3.5" RE lift JKS 1.25" BL 1" MML Poison Spyder trail stinger A to Z rockers & rear bumper w/ tire carrier 33"x12.50 BFG MT on black soft 8's(soon to be 35's)

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Old 03-10-2009, 10:44 AM   #14
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how are your brakes? i would look into some EBC yellows and centric premium rotors.
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Old 03-10-2009, 10:47 AM   #15
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Go 35s. I am running stock brakes and stock steering on 37s with no probems so far.
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