[rfields576]

All,

I've read various threads, online posts, etc etc but I need a straight answer from someone.

I have a 05 Jeep WR UNL Rubicon. Initially, my fan speeds 1 & 2 stopped working but 3 & 4 worked fine. At the same time, my cruise control crapped out. I then deployed to Iraq and my Jeep was driven maybe once a month. When I got back, the cruise control was working fine but my speeds 1 & 2 still didn't work.

Yesterday, fan speed #3 stopped working. And fan speed #4 works still BUT it's loud as all get out and I don't want to put it on that speed. Couple of variables are listed for my Jeep.

Hawaii
Cruise control didn't work (2007 - 2008); Worked (2009 - 2010)
Deployed (2008 - 2009)
Fan speed 1 & 2 don't work (2007 - 2010)
Fan speed 3 stopped working (Yesterday, 2010)
It's a switch not a button to activate the fan

I've read it's the blower motor resistor or the blower / fan switch itself or blower motor switch. Could there have been a recall for this? Probably not, it's a Jeep.

I've also heard it's a defroster issue or the small vacuum tube. But I do not think it's this because - from what I've read - if it was the small vacuum tube, it would only blow out through the defroster. My fan works on position #4 with any option - defroster or AC or heat or face or feet, etc.

I'd like to fix this myself because it seems like an easy switch and well worth saving a couple hundred bucks for a $12 or something like that.

Thanks for all of your help.
Ray

[dcope17]

Mine was the resistor. Worked on high only. I checked the switch before buying anything though.

[greendot200200]

Those signs, other than the cruise control, spell out a blown resistor pack. Mine went in my 2000TJ. At full speed the full 12 volts from the battery is used, so there is no resistor being used to step down the voltage to the fan motor and reduce it's speed. Mine slowly went to the state just like yours did...speeds 1&2 went and then 3 went. I am surprised though that yours went on an 05 though, but I would be willing to bet that is what your problem is. The pack isn't that expensive and replacement is definitely a DIY project, so it might be worth just replacing that and see what happens.

[zeke8]

Probally worth the $15 for the resistor as a guess, it usually is. If you got a multimeter you can check continuity between prongs on resistor. You should have continuity between each prong, I have an 2002 tj and it is a resistor that resembles a circuit board which are diffucult to repair unlike the older ones.

[rfields576]

How do you check the switch?

[zeke8]

Check for battery voltage at the fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the A/C-heater control from the instrument panel. Check for continuity between the ground circuit cavity of the A/C-heater wire harness connector and a good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the open circuit to ground as required.
With the A/C-heater control wire harness connector disconnected, place the A/C-heater mode control switch in any position except the Off position. Check for continuity between the ground circuit terminal and each of the blower motor driver circuit terminals of the A/C-heater control as you move the blower motor switch to each of the four speed positions. There should be continuity at each driver circuit terminal in only one blower motor switch speed position. If OK, test and repair the blower driver circuits between the A/C-heater control connector and the blower motor resistor as required. If not OK, replace the faulty A/C-heater control unit.

[rfields576]

why is the resistor not working? I mean shouldn't it just wirk like its supposed to? I'll see about changing out the resistor. Any clue where to get it from?

[zeke8]

Buy resistor from any auto parts store, take out glove box it should be behind there, if its not on your 2004 it will by the kickpanel on passengers floor.

[rfields576]

I have a 2005. Same location? No auto store here carries that part.

[greendot200200]

Not too familiar with 2005s and this part looks different than mine for my 2000, but this could be it. Let me know if the link takes you directly to it. I am not a mechanic so you will definitely not want to take my word that this is the part, but it might be a starting point for you.


AutoZone.com | | Blower Motor Resistor | BLOWER MTR RESISTOR

[greendot200200]

Perhaps these will help some

http://www.answerbag.com/q_view/526692

Where is and how do you replace a blower motor resistor on a 2005 jeep wrangler se V6? I've got everything torn apart and am looking at a few different little boxes. | Answerbag

[redfox86]

I just replaced the blower resistor for the second time in my mom's 2001 Chrysler T&C, and two other people I know with Chrysler/Dodge minivans of the same era have the same problem. It seems to be a rampant problem with these vehicles cause the Pepboys by my house had to call three different parts chains to find one for me cause everywhere else in the area the resistor is backordered and I'm not getting one from the dealer. Don't expect the new one to last long as the 2nd one we had barely lasted two years, bad design maybe?

[PhulesAu]

Ebay has a bunch right now.

[vossintl]

I have EXACTLY the same problem. From everything else I've read so far as it relates to a faulty resistor pack, usually the first 3 speeds are not working and the 4th speed is working properly (since this speed is battery direct). My speed 1 & 2 do not operate. Speed 3 is okay. Speed 4 is ridiculously noisy to the point that it is annoying. My question is........Does the resistor pack slowly deteriorate affecting speeds 1 and 2 first and then move into the 3rd speed? Is this sequence a common progression as well?

[dcope17]

I would first check the voltage at the blower motor in each position. Just an assumption of the voltages but lets say low is 3V, pos 2 is 6V, pos 3 is 9V then 4 is 12V. Should be something like that. If it is... then sounds like a bad blower motor. If it doesn't work like that... then check the switch in the dash. If the switch works fine, last would be either a bad resistor, or some wires are broken.