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Unread 06-19-2011, 05:36 PM   #1471
06RubiconBlue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs

Willy, I really think they purposely put the hole off center making the gear only go on one way. All the replacement gears (including the E05 replacements) only have one hole for that reason. That is better for us since putting a 13 tooth gear on 180 out makes the shaft about 14 degrees off on re-installation. (I know, use the shaft-to-housing marks, not the housing-to-block marks.) Still it is easier if everything goes back as it came out.

If you know that you are going to replace your OPDA when you take the old one out - use the TDC method outlined here on the first page. That way you can use the alignment pin that comes with the OPDA to accurately install it.

Take the old one apart first & see how bad the shaft & bushing are. Maybe all you need is to mod yours & replace the gear.

If you do replace your OPDA, you still should disassemble it & mod it or at least lubricate the shaft & bushings. They have zero lube from the factory.
Thank you. I think I'll just pick up a new one and do the FogMod. I think this would be the best choice do to wear of the entire unit. That way I know I have fresh start. I was just worrying about getting a new one timed right. I must have skipped over that part I also just changed the oil to mobil 1. So next oil change I'll go with the turbo diesel oil. It's sad that a engine with 26,000 miles could have a defect this great. Not a happy Jeeper...

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Unread 06-19-2011, 05:48 PM   #1472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06RubiconBlue View Post
Thank you. I think I'll just pick up a new one and do the FogMod. I think this would be the best choice do to wear of the entire unit. That way I know I have fresh start. I was just worrying about getting a new one timed right. I must have skipped over that part I also just changed the oil to mobil 1. So next oil change I'll go with the turbo diesel oil. It's sad that a engine with 26,000 miles could have a defect this great. Not a happy Jeeper...
If you marked your existing unit as demonstrated by Willydigger's YouTube video on page one, match the marks on your new unit to the old, and drop it in. The marks on the target wheel, ODPA housing, and engine block should all line up, and it should be close enough that the computer will compensate and you won't have any problems.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 05:57 PM   #1473
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
If you marked your existing unit as demonstrated by Willydigger's YouTube video on page one, match the marks on your new unit to the old, and drop it in. The marks on the target wheel, ODPA housing, and engine block should all line up, and it should be close enough that the computer will compensate and you won't have any problems.
When I swapped mine a just matched the marks. The computer will compensate and if you're off a little, you can easily tweak the housing CW or CCW. The TDC method will work too, however, don't rely on it exclusively. Mark it anyway. Some guys have relied on the TDC only and have still had timing issues. Take some photos or have a helper. I've had mine out around 5-6 times. Each time I used the sharpie method and I've never had an issue.

Also remember the slot for the oil pump sometimes gets moved. Take a flat head screwdriver to realign. The video actually shows the oil pump not cooperating.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 05:58 PM   #1474
06RubiconBlue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB

If you marked your existing unit as demonstrated by Willydigger's YouTube video on page one, match the marks on your new unit to the old, and drop it in. The marks on the target wheel, ODPA housing, and engine block should all line up, and it should be close enough that the computer will compensate and you won't have any problems.
Thank you sir! I was going to log on the computer with better pictures but, I forgot my pass word and locked my self out.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 06:02 PM   #1475
willydigger
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Originally Posted by 06RubiconBlue View Post
Thank you sir! I was going to log on the computer with better pictures but, I forgot my pass word and locked my self out.
Starting from scratch is the best alternative, but based on your images, I think your OPDA is fine. The gear doesn't look bad at all. If there is no issue with spinning and no shaft damage, I'd mod that one and save some money. I just did and OPDA for gunner87 that looked just like yours with regards to wear. His shaft had scoring that buffed out and there was some discoloration in the upper bushing area. If you'd rather buy new for piece of mind, you can likely keep the existing one for a spare.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 06:04 PM   #1476
06RubiconBlue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger

When I swapped mine a just matched the marks. The computer will compensate and if you're off a little, you can easily tweak the housing CW or CCW. The TDC method will work too, however, don't rely on it exclusively. Mark it anyway. Some guys have relied on the TDC only and have still had timing issues. Take some photos or have a helper. I've had mine out around 5-6 times. Each time I used the sharpie method and I've never had an issue.

Also remember the slot for the oil pump sometimes gets moved. Take a flat head screwdriver to realign. The video actually shows the oil pump not cooperating.
Thanks Willy! I'll have the better pics up shortly and see what you think. My ODPA is a Rev E. And build date is 6/06.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 06:08 PM   #1477
Rubi4MyMrs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06RubiconBlue View Post
Thank you. I think I'll just pick up a new one and do the FogMod. I think this would be the best choice do to wear of the entire unit. That way I know I have fresh start. I was just worrying about getting a new one timed right. I must have skipped over that part I also just changed the oil to mobil 1. So next oil change I'll go with the turbo diesel oil. It's sad that a engine with 26,000 miles could have a defect this great. Not a happy Jeeper...
Since you will have the new gear riding on the old cam gear it not ideal so I would lube the gear with a good Moly grease. I have 25,000 miles on mine & TJJP77 has like 12,000 miles with the same problem. At least it is "only" a $100+ repair. Mine also spit gas at me every time I fill up & that's is a $600+ problem. Still love my LJ though!
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Unread 06-19-2011, 06:17 PM   #1478
willydigger
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Originally Posted by 06RubiconBlue View Post
Thanks Willy! I'll have the better pics up shortly and see what you think. My ODPA is a Rev E. And build date is 6/06.
As mentioned previously, build date and Rev. are irrelevant. My first OPDA was a Rev.B and I'm running a Rev.E currently. Both Rev. fail.

I actually believe 2006 model year Jeeps have more potential for damage simply due to the ZDDP levels in the 2006 oils. That's just me being anal though.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 06:20 PM   #1479
06RubiconBlue
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Here are the better pictures. If you see the last one, its of the end of the shaft, is that wear from the oil pump? Crazy....
picture-019.jpg   picture-020.jpg   picture-021.jpg   picture-022.jpg  
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Unread 06-19-2011, 06:33 PM   #1480
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Looks worse than I thought. Definitely replace it.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 06:51 PM   #1481
06RubiconBlue
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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Looks worse than I thought. Definitely replace it.
agreed! I May put 100 miles on it in a month. I hear a TSB will be out in July, should i wait and see what Chrysler is going to do or go ahead and get a new one. Im sure they wont go as far as replacing a cam and lifters but i may get a free OPDA?
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Unread 06-19-2011, 07:07 PM   #1482
element981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
The new OPDA shafts do not have a tapered roll pin hole. I suppose there is a small chance you have some crazy quality control failure, however all the OPDA's I've worked on (12 now) do not have a tapered hole.
WIlly, first off thanks for all the help over the last two weeks. Anyways, my shaft is actually tapered. My punch by itself will only go half way through the shaft and that was it. Other than that the gear and the shaft lined up as good as can be.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 07:21 PM   #1483
06RubiconBlue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs

Since you will have the new gear riding on the old cam gear it not ideal so I would lube the gear with a good Moly grease. I have 25,000 miles on mine & TJJP77 has like 12,000 miles with the same problem. At least it is "only" a $100+ repair. Mine also spit gas at me every time I fill up & that's is a $600+ problem. Still love my LJ though!
Lol, I hear ya. Mine spit gas too, I has to ease that last 2 gallons in everytime. But I'm going to hold off on that. I only drive mine less than 3000k miles a year. So I can handle the gas tank issue, now my motor blowing up with less than 30k on it scares the hell out of me.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 07:37 PM   #1484
Rubi4MyMrs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by element981 View Post
WIlly, first off thanks for all the help over the last two weeks. Anyways, my shaft is actually tapered. My punch by itself will only go half way through the shaft and that was it. Other than that the gear and the shaft lined up as good as can be.
That IS interesting. Any photos? Shaft, gear, pin? Is it still rev.E?
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Unread 06-19-2011, 07:40 PM   #1485
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Based on my experience, a new OPDA/OPDA gear will quickly pick up the same wear pattern your existing gear already has. The only real fix is a new cam and OPDA gear. You can buy yourself perhaps a lot of time just switching OPDA gears, but eventually the cam will have enough wear on the gear that it will exceed the window of error that the computer can tolerate even with a new-ish OPDA gear.
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