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Unread 06-18-2011, 01:44 PM   #1456
Jetscuh
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My Jeep has a build date of 12-04. I'll be checking my OPDA tomorrow when I perform other maintenance. I'm both curious and nervous

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Unread 06-18-2011, 03:08 PM   #1457
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Build date, is irrelevant. If it is a 05-06 model, it has the problem.
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Unread 06-18-2011, 03:20 PM   #1458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by element981 View Post
Well, I got a new ODPA, did the FogMod and here is my report.
*The new shaft is different from the old, meaning the hole in the shaft for the pin is tapered, whereas the old is not.
*When spinning the new one before/after the FogMod, my old one spins night and day better. To the point one good twist equals about 2-3 full turns. The new one only does a 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Any ideas as to why?
*The old still had some form of grease in it; however, it looked like most everyone else except my gear seems to be as it should.
[IMG][/IMG]


I'm guessing here but the new one was probably dry, right? It seems that none of the new ones are pre-lubricated. Also the new one has a new seal & from the grooves in some of the shafts shown in this thread, I'd say they are pretty tight & also lacking lubrication. This will add drag. As far as not spinning after the FOGMod, I'd guess that is from the grease you packed in (& new seal). I don't know what grease you used but any grease is pretty stiff when "cold".

Are the 2 photos of the same shaft but opposite sides? The first one looks pretty black in the bushing area.
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Unread 06-18-2011, 05:19 PM   #1459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
I'm guessing here but the new one was probably dry, right? It seems that none of the new ones are pre-lubricated. Also the new one has a new seal & from the grooves in some of the shafts shown in this thread, I'd say they are pretty tight & also lacking lubrication. This will add drag. As far as not spinning after the FOGMod, I'd guess that is from the grease you packed in (& new seal). I don't know what grease you used but any grease is pretty stiff when "cold".

Are the 2 photos of the same shaft but opposite sides? The first one looks pretty black in the bushing area.
Actually there was grease (if you can call it that) in there. I was like a hard version of vasoline. I used the amshell of what ever it is called to replace the factory grease.

As for the shafts, they are the same. One is before I cleaned it and the other is after. That black stuff was actually grease and was stuff greasy if you will.
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Unread 06-18-2011, 06:02 PM   #1460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by element981 View Post
Actually there was grease (if you can call it that) in there. I was like a hard version of vasoline. I used the amshell of what ever it is called to replace the factory grease.

As for the shafts, they are the same. One is before I cleaned it and the other is after. That black stuff was actually grease and was stuff greasy if you will.
I didn't mean in the reservoir, I meant on the shaft/bushings. I should have clarified that. So far everyone that has gotten a recent OPDA & taken it apart as you did has found the shaft/bushings dry. A great reason to FOGMod them as you did.

The Aeroshell seems to be the grease of choice but as good as it is, it has a high viscosity when "cold" making it understandably hard to spin. That is one of the reasons to pump it in when the engine is warm & running (after the initial installation).

It is hard to tell from the photo but the gear looks really good for the mileage. Is the pattern good all the way around?
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Unread 06-18-2011, 08:05 PM   #1461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
It is hard to tell from the photo but the gear looks really good for the mileage. Is the pattern good all the way around?
Actually the pattern is real good all the way around. When I was swopping in the new one, in the back of my mind I was concerned if the new one will do so well.

You are correct. The new one (shaft/bushing) was bone dry.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 12:39 PM   #1462
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I'm probably missing something here...but why can't you just get a whole new assembly from say...a 2004 and switch it out with the one that is in your 2005 or 2006?
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Unread 06-19-2011, 12:57 PM   #1463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetscuh View Post
I'm probably missing something here...but why can't you just get a whole new assembly from say...a 2004 and switch it out with the one that is in your 2005 or 2006?
I am not too smart on this and most likely wrong, but the point should be the same nonetheless. The computer on the 04 and earlier read a different signal from the OPDA (I believe). For example the 04s would be analog whereas the 05+ are digital. That is about the depth and scope as to why.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 01:02 PM   #1464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by element981 View Post
I am not too smart on this and most likely wrong, but the point should be the same nonetheless. The computer on the 04 and earlier read a different signal from the OPDA (I believe). For example the 04s would be analog whereas the 05+ are digital. That is about the depth and scope as to why.
But would the CPS from the 05, fit into the housing on the 04? That would solve the problem, no?
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Unread 06-19-2011, 01:04 PM   #1465
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Yep, the '05-'06's went to a different sensor so they're not interchangable
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Unread 06-19-2011, 01:07 PM   #1466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeachinXJ View Post
But would the CPS from the 05, fit into the housing on the 04? That would solve the problem, no?
No, different design. The '05 sensor wouldn't read the "bug" on the '04 & earlier. What would be nice is if someone would make an adapter that would read the sensor on an '04 and convert the signal for the '05-'06 computer to read.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 01:31 PM   #1467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slugger View Post
On a whim, I called Superchips today. Spoke with a very informative engineer who is the Jeep programmer. He was not familiar with our problem. I gave him the link and asked him of the possibility of using an 04 OPDA unit and using a chip to reprogram the 05 and 06 computers to read the signal it gave. He was going to read this link,but felt that they probably would not do anything. He said they were working on 2011 models and ours being only produced for 2 years that they couldn't budget for it.

I'm hoping he will at least be curious enough to look at this link and do a little thinking on his own.
Yes Lope I have thought this all along. Rather than fix this POS new one find a way to make the 04's work with our computers. I have sent e-mails to some folks , but there seems to be no interest. I wish Chrysler would reflash them for us.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 01:49 PM   #1468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by element981 View Post
...
*The new shaft is different from the old, meaning the hole in the shaft for the pin is tapered, whereas the old is not....
The new OPDA shafts do not have a tapered roll pin hole. I suppose there is a small chance you have some crazy quality control failure, however all the OPDA's I've worked on (12 now) do not have a tapered hole.

Instead the hole is not always drilled in the center of the shaft. It is sometimes to the side just a bit. What this means is the gear can only go back on one way. If you spin the gear 180° the hole will be off a little. If you don't notice this you can start the roll pin with no problem, but you will soon twist the gear to a point where you will not be able to continue to drive the roll pin in (creating the illusion of a tapered hole).

I normally mark the gear so it goes on the same way and I would encourage FogMODers to do this. If you don't or forget, just make sure before to drive in the roll pin that the gear and shaft hole line up right. If you're unsure turn the gear 180° to see how the hole lines up.
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Unread 06-19-2011, 02:22 PM   #1469
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I took mine out today. (2006 Rubicon. 26k miles) iPhone pics are not the best. But I have even wear all the way around, it's pretty heavy to only have 26,000 miles. The cam shaft had a little wear on it as well, not as bad. Looks like I'll be installing a new one soon. The question I have is, when installing the new one, how do you get everything lined up? Just mark new one up like the old one? Please advise. Thanks!
image-1516029937.jpg   image-1577149989.jpg   image-99484864.jpg   image-119769249.jpg  
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Unread 06-19-2011, 04:47 PM   #1470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
The new OPDA shafts do not have a tapered roll pin hole. I suppose there is a small chance you have some crazy quality control failure, however all the OPDA's I've worked on (12 now) do not have a tapered hole.

Instead the hole is not always drilled in the center of the shaft. It is sometimes to the side just a bit. What this means is the gear can only go back on one way. If you spin the gear 180° the hole will be off a little. If you don't notice this you can start the roll pin with no problem, but you will soon twist the gear to a point where you will not be able to continue to drive the roll pin in (creating the illusion of a tapered hole).

I normally mark the gear so it goes on the same way and I would encourage FogMODers to do this. If you don't or forget, just make sure before to drive in the roll pin that the gear and shaft hole line up right. If you're unsure turn the gear 180° to see how the hole lines up.
Willy, I really think they purposely put the hole off center making the gear only go on one way. All the replacement gears (including the E05 replacements) only have one hole for that reason. That is better for us since putting a 13 tooth gear on 180 out makes the shaft about 14 degrees off on re-installation. (I know, use the shaft-to-housing marks, not the housing-to-block marks.) Still it is easier if everything goes back as it came out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 06RubiconBlue View Post
I took mine out today. (2006 Rubicon. 26k miles) iPhone pics are not the best. But I have even wear all the way around, it's pretty heavy to only have 26,000 miles. The cam shaft had a little wear on it as well, not as bad. Looks like I'll be installing a new one soon. The question I have is, when installing the new one, how do you get everything lined up? Just mark new one up like the old one? Please advise. Thanks!
If you know that you are going to replace your OPDA when you take the old one out - use the TDC method outlined here on the first page. That way you can use the alignment pin that comes with the OPDA to accurately install it.

Take the old one apart first & see how bad the shaft & bushing are. Maybe all you need is to mod yours & replace the gear.

If you do replace your OPDA, you still should disassemble it & mod it or at least lubricate the shaft & bushings. They have zero lube from the factory.
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