2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 96 - JeepForum.com

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post #1426 of 5484 Old 06-09-2011, 06:33 PM
bonza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azxj91 View Post
My question is how do you break in the gear on a new OPDA? Special grease? idle for awhile? special proceedure??
!!
I would give the pinion gear a good coating of this grease from Mallory
http://shop.888murrays.com/product.p...cat=593&page=1
and squirt some oil into the oil gallery for the lower bearing

as an aside, just received my insurance spare from Dodge wholesale at the new lower price. great service was here within a week.
will fogmod it this weekend

interestingly I am nor aware of this issue being widespread on any '05-'06 Wranglers here in Australia except for two Wranglers that had damaged cam lobes when the opda pinion broke at a very low mileage. as far as I know the zddp has not been lowered in engine oils here yet


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post #1427 of 5484 Old 06-09-2011, 08:13 PM
njjeepthing
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OK, so a little update on mine. Pulled the OPDA today, gear looks pretty good actually, was expecting to see a broken tooth or serious wear, but it looked pretty good, could see a few mesh indications, but nothing that looked alarmingly worn.
The shop re timed it using the TDC method, still throwing code P0016, and above 3000 RPM is sounds like its hitting the rev limited.

The shop also had another LJ there, so they swapped out the sensors just to see and it made no difference. Same code same engine issue.

They did have the battery un hooked for 2 days, I am wondering if the computer was affected and needs to be reflashed or the timing needs to be reset via the computer?

I'm starting to get stressed here! Anyone have any ideas what else to check or look at?
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post #1428 of 5484 Old 06-09-2011, 08:21 PM
TJJP77
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Your cam/crank sync needs to be reset to as close to 0 degrees as possible with a factory tool, a DRBIII. The DRBIII allows you to see the actual cam/crank sync difference in real time so you can dial it in as close as possible. Some people seem to get lucky when they ballpark it, or if they carefully marked everything they can get in the window where the PCM won't set a sync error code (P0016). Clearly that isn't the case here.

Chris
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post #1429 of 5484 Old 06-09-2011, 08:21 PM
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Have they checked the crankshaft position sensor?

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post #1430 of 5484 Old 06-09-2011, 08:28 PM
njjeepthing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJJP77 View Post
Your cam/crank sync needs to be reset to as close to 0 degrees as possible with a factory tool, a DRBIII. The DRBIII allows you to see the actual cam/crank sync difference in real time so you can dial it in as close as possible. Some people seem to get lucky when they ballpark it, or if they carefully marked everything they can get in the window where the PCM won't set a sync error code (P0016). Clearly that isn't the case here.
That's the next step I guess!
Thanks
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post #1431 of 5484 Old 06-09-2011, 08:28 PM
njjeepthing
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Quote:
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Have they checked the crankshaft position sensor?
Yup
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post #1432 of 5484 Old 06-09-2011, 08:33 PM
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Strange. If they had the engine at TDC, and the OPDA tone wheel aligned with the hole in the housing, it should run OK and only require a little tweaking to get the code to go away.

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post #1433 of 5484 Old 06-09-2011, 08:42 PM
njjeepthing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkp View Post
Strange. If they had the engine at TDC, and the OPDA tone wheel aligned with the hole in the housing, it should run OK and only require a little tweaking to get the code to go away.
Yup, says it was TDC, the little alignment holes lined up with little to no jiggle room for the small screw driver.

He's using a Snap on Scanner tool, I think he said the timing was like 3.1, does that make sense? The other LJ in the shop is like 13 he said, the parameters were less than 15 was ok?
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post #1434 of 5484 Old 06-09-2011, 08:56 PM
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You can be off by up to 15 degrees either direction, IIRC, and the computer will compensate for the difference. Sounds like yours was close to spot on.

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post #1435 of 5484 Old 06-09-2011, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njjeepthing View Post
OK, so I skimmed some of this thread, and read all of page one. I have an 06LJ that I just bought used with 33k on it. It started having issues today, threw all kind of CPS codes, running rough, CEL...etc This happened as the mechanic finished installing my lift, the Jeep wouldn't start, when it did it ran rough, and anything over 3000RPMs it just dies out. I'm not a mechanic, so some of this tech is spanish to me! I also read the other threads that say no aftermarket part is available yet.

So what do I need to get this thing driveable again? Do the parts from Dodge-wholesale work, at least till Jeep releases something this summer? My jeep can't drive right now, I can't sit around waiting for Jeep to make a part!

Help!
OK so is it at least running better now than when this all started? There have been several guys report P0016 codes after BL/MMLs. Don’t know of any reports of finding the cause. Do some searches & contact these guys & find out what they ended up doing to fix this.

Here are 3 threads that a quick search found. Not necessarily real recent but it’s a start.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/p0...-lift-1136722/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/p-...e-code-590419/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ch...s-bmml-405406/

Here is another recent one

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/p0016-help-1205812/
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post #1436 of 5484 Old 06-14-2011, 04:37 PM
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Using factory fill hole on OPDA

I'm in the process of replacing my OPDA; I was wondering if anyone has used the factory fill hole with a 90 or 45 degree grease fitting? Looks like there may be enough room to get a grease gun on it.
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post #1437 of 5484 Old 06-14-2011, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgstj View Post
I'm in the process of replacing my OPDA; I was wondering if anyone has used the factory fill hole with a 90 or 45 degree grease fitting? Looks like there may be enough room to get a grease gun on it.
This is very popular question recently. Couple points. The answer is on the first page. Typically the first page is the last place to look in a thread that nearing 100 pages. I've tried to continually update the first page with new info so in the future have a quick look there first. Below is the section from the Q&A section.

My other "question" with this question is the reasoning. You will save some money on the zerk tap (which frankly you will likely never use again), however trying to jam the zerk in the rear instead of putting it in front for easy access doesn't seem worth it. The threads on the aluminum are frail compared to regular steel. You don't want an awkward grease gun fitting placing unnecessary force on those threads. It's a better idea IMO to spend the extra few dollars on a bottom tap for the zerk and put it in the front.


Quote:
Question:
Originally Posted by 07AMF
Getting ready to do this mod and was wondering if a 90 degree zerk could be used and place it in the factory grease port. Also instead of removing the factory grease port plug, (if a zerk can't go there) could the plug just stay there instead of installing the grub screw?

Answer:
The factory grease port is at the rear of the OPDA between the OPDA and the engine. It would be a tight fit and difficult to reach. That said it is doable with a few caveats. There will be no way to completely purge the reservoir since you will be using the purge port as your fill/grease port. You will purge through the hole in the bushing. The hole through the bushing will also be in line with your fill port so the opposite side of the reservoir will not get cleaned out.

With regards to leaving the factory plug in place, the pressure from the zerk will pop it out. You also need to drill the bushing hole through that port so the plug will need to be removed.


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post #1438 of 5484 Old 06-15-2011, 09:22 PM
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I volunteer with a shop that fixes up cars to donate to needy families. They have a Sun Solus scanner that I used to read the Cam/Crank signal. When I first hooked it up it was reading -2.5 since I last looked at my OPDA a few weeks ago. I wanted to get it a little closer to zero so I loosed the hold down bolt adjusted the rotation of the OPDA. It is very hard to make fine adjustments by turning the unit. At one point I turned it too far and the reading went to -25 and the engine quit. I was able to realign it by using marks from previous attempts. That allowed it to start and it read 5. After some fiddling I was able to get it to -1.6 by setting it to about 1 and then tightening it. As it was tightened the reading shifted some. I've read here that any value within 10 degrees is okay but I wanted to get it as close t zero as I could. Next time I'm there I'll take another reading to make sure it hasn't moved.

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post #1439 of 5484 Old 06-16-2011, 05:00 PM
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Just wanted to know if anyone has done this with any success.
Does sound better to be able to purge the old grease out with new.
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post #1440 of 5484 Old 06-16-2011, 05:14 PM
bonza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgstj View Post
Just wanted to know if anyone has done this with any success.
Does sound better to be able to purge the old grease out with new.
I recently fogmodded a spare OPDA and considered fitting a 90 degree zerk in the original fill hole but decided against it as figured that when the grease gun is applied to the zerk there would be a tendancy to push against it with the risk of causing the threads to strip in the soft aluminum body of the OPDA. besides it's easy to drill and tap another port for a flush mounted zerk for a needle grease nozzle in a more accessible position and flush out the prefill crap and any shavings from drilling and tapping

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