2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 94 - JeepForum.com

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post #1396 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 12:13 AM
Jt_grooms
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What's the best oil to use if the modification has not been done? With zddp or not I'm new to this and could use some help deciding on oil? I would be to scared to tackle this problem my self


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post #1397 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jt_grooms
What's the best oil to use if the modification has not been done? With zddp or not I'm new to this and could use some help deciding on oil? I would be to scared to tackle this problem my self
The OP has done us all a favor and organized everything. Go to the first post and read it! I'm not sure why you also started another thread with this same question?
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post #1398 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 01:10 AM
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To just get a answer and OPINIONS on oil. Apparently you cant

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post #1399 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 05:21 AM
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Has anyone found where to buy it? Any in stock

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post #1400 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Jt_grooms
Has anyone found where to buy it? Any in stock
Is there a video showing how to fix it

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post #1401 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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You can find Mobil 1 TDT and VR1 at most retail auto parts stores (at least in Baltimore). I've been very successful finding TDT at Walmart also. Short of those places online is the last resort. Another option that I should add to the first page (maybe I have can't remember) there is an additive called ZDDPlus that can be added to any conventional or synthetic oil of your choice. There may be other oil/additive reactions, but it should be reasonably safe.

With regards to a FogMOD video, it takes some skill and frankly if you can't understand the details from the photos it may be a better alternative to have someone do it for you. While the average joe can tackle this project, those of us who have done it know the delicacies of tooling aluminum and the steady hand and patience required. I don't know if that level of skill will show well enough on a video and may give some a false sense of security. Please understand you are operating on a critical engine component and if not done correctly may cause some serious problems.

On the first page there is a list of tools and some very detailed pics so if you are inclined to give it a try you have a good starting point.
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post #1402 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 07:47 AM
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Thanks for the info

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post #1403 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 08:42 AM
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Just an fyi for you guys...I remember reading in a recent issue of jp magazine that our 4.0's do require zddp additives to prevent premature damage. I continue to use ZDDPPlus and will pull my unmodified opda in another couple of thousand miles to see the wear pattern.

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post #1404 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
You can find Mobil 1 TDT and VR1 at most retail auto parts stores (at least in Baltimore). I've been very successful finding TDT at Walmart also. [snip]
FWIW, my local NAPA is running a $4.99/qt sale on Mobil 1 Oils (I think through June). That included the TDT last time I bought.

IIRC, last time I saw it at Walmart it was closer to $25/gal.

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post #1405 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepScrap View Post
Just an fyi for you guys...I remember reading in a recent issue of jp magazine that our 4.0's do require zddp additives to prevent premature damage. I continue to use ZDDPPlus and will pull my unmodified opda in another couple of thousand miles to see the wear pattern.

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Or an oil with suitable levels of ZDDP, I prefer the oil to the additive, just me though....post the pics of your OPDA here so we can see the wear....how many miles?

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post #1406 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ItsMrHall View Post
As far as oil goes, I use 6quarts of Chevron supreme 10w-30 every 4000km. I am by far no oil expert and frankly, use the same oil my family has been using for years in their 4.0L.

After sitting down and really getting a good look at this thing. I can tell you that yes the black residue in the housing is the grease on the shaft. You can see from my picture that the grease is actually pushing up the shaft, over the ring, across the backside of the wheel and actually being flung around my housing. The ring under the wheel u can tell has been worn from metal to metal contact, but far from a "groove".

Ok, I pulled the stock grease plug out and found something I wasnt expecting. White material?? I thought it was white grease, but it seems almost like paper? Some sort of packing material? Im just throwing idea's into the wind here, wut else could it be for but to hold in the grease? Because when I blew compressed air into the hole. It did nothing but push back, went absolutly no where, because of course, that white material is blocking it from getting around the resovoir and through the holes to the bushing.

I don't want to sound like a total idiot, but the grease found on the shaft/in the housing smelt exactly like the white material found behind the plug. Im actually at a complete loss to what it is.

I know this is a terrible picture but looking down towards the bushings, u can see the black grease that was infact keeping the shaft lubed. Not well enough how ever as my shaft still changed color due to heat damage. As well as wear enough to scar the shaft itself. In the upper housing where the wheel/ sensor is, You can see the score marks along the wall where the shaft is actually worn out enough to touch the walls, as well as the sensor! I might add.
The factory grease has fibers in it. It's like a yellowish paste. If there is no hole in the upper bushing made from the previous owner, than it's not factory grease.

I think the upper bushing was dry and got hot like we've seen before. I also think the seal failed and allowed oil into the upper section. That oil turned to sludge. I don't think you'll have heat marks if the upper chamber had been lubed from the start.

I have seen other OPDA's with black specs and others have reported seeing black specs in the housing. This makes me think it has more to do with seal failure than previous owner tampering, but I'm just thinking out loud.
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post #1407 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 12:00 PM
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Ok, I have the new unit in my hands and will carefully pull it apart to discover a probably very dry upper shaft, like you guys have been saying.

"The factory grease has fibers in it. It's like a yellowish paste." from that Willy, the reason why the FOGMOD requires you to drill a new hole for the zerk/ grub plug factory one is to allow exisiting factory grease someplace to escape?

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post #1408 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 12:04 PM
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Is the reason the FOGMOD requires you to drill a new hole for the zerk fitting/ cap the existing factory hole with a grub plug to allow the "white material" some place to escape?
Copied from the Question and answer section.

[QUOTE=willydigger;10663501]

Originally Posted by 07AMF
Getting ready to do this mod and was wondering if a 90 degree zerk could be used and place it in the factory grease port. Also instead of removing the factory grease port plug, (if a zerk can't go there) could the plug just stay there instead of installing the grub screw?
Thanks

Answer:
The factory grease port is at the rear of the OPDA between the OPDA and the engine. It would be a tight fit and difficult to reach. That said it is doable with a few caveats. There will be no way to completely purge the reservoir since you will be using the purge port as your fill/grease port. You will purge through the hole in the bushing. The hole through the bushing will also be in line with your fill port so the opposite side of the reservoir will not get cleaned out.

With regards to leaving the factory plug in place, the pressure from the zerk will pop it out. You also need to drill the bushing hole through that port so the plug will need to be removed.
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post #1409 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 12:20 PM
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[quote=Benderff;11675548]Copied from the Question and answer section.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post

Originally Posted by 07AMF
Getting ready to do this mod and was wondering if a 90 degree zerk could be used and place it in the factory grease port. Also instead of removing the factory grease port plug, (if a zerk can't go there) could the plug just stay there instead of installing the grub screw?
Thanks

Answer:
The factory grease port is at the rear of the OPDA between the OPDA and the engine. It would be a tight fit and difficult to reach. That said it is doable with a few caveats. There will be no way to completely purge the reservoir since you will be using the purge port as your fill/grease port. You will purge through the hole in the bushing. The hole through the bushing will also be in line with your fill port so the opposite side of the reservoir will not get cleaned out.

With regards to leaving the factory plug in place, the pressure from the zerk will pop it out. You also need to drill the bushing hole through that port so the plug will need to be removed.
Thank you, I knew I read this somewhere and everything I was thinking is now confirmed.

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post #1410 of 5452 Old 06-08-2011, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Jt_grooms View Post
What's the best oil to use if the modification has not been done? With zddp or not I'm new to this and could use some help deciding on oil? I would be to scared to tackle this problem my self
If you don’t do a mod then I would say to oil the shaft/ bushings with whatever motor oil you chose. One of the highest ZDDP oils & reasonably priced is Valvoline VR1 conventional oil. I am using 10-30 VR1. Note that there is both VR1 synthetic & conventional. In 10-30, the conventional is actually higher in ZDDP & costs less. Also note that it is classified as a racing oil. That is to allow the higher zinc. Their true racing oil is different & clearly labeled “not for street use”. See my reference below

If you go this route, I would say to monitor it be pulling it occasionally to see how it goes. Don’t forget to inspect the cam gear.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Not to enter the oil debate but realize that with Valvoline there are three “racing oils”. They are:
Racing Motor Oil

All are different & have their own applications. I see on their Product Information sheets that the VR1 Synthetic has lower ZDDP levels on their 5-30 & 10-30 than on their 20-50. Also, as I posted earlier, the conventional ZR1 10-30 & straight 60 don’t actually have the API seal but claim on the bottles to meet the API standards.
The VR1 conventional has been on sale for $2.99 at O’Reilly’s making it a great deal.



The ZDDP plus adds $1.50/qt.(+) to any oil change & I like the fact that the VR1 has the ZDDP formulated into the oil rather than an additive. Probably not a big deal but who knows?
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