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Unread 06-05-2011, 07:12 PM   #1381
ChaseB
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I'll be pulling my newly Fog-modded OPDA done by Willydigger in the coming weeks when I change my oil. It will have 5,000 miles on it. I plan on giving the Valvoline VR1 a try this time around, switching from Mobil 1 TDT. I'll be sure to post pics of my findings, although I'm not very optimistic because I'm pretty sure my cam gear is compromised so I would expect similar wear patterns as my original OPDA.

I'm driving it until she fails though. Anymore word on the newly designed OPDA from skinnypedal??

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Unread 06-05-2011, 09:26 PM   #1382
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As jeep ever had a recall on the 05 TJ
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Unread 06-05-2011, 10:55 PM   #1383
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Great Information guys.

Thanks!
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Unread 06-07-2011, 03:10 PM   #1384
ItsMrHall
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Hey I know u guys have looked at lots before, but here's mine. Tell me what you think. No symptons, with lots of Kms..92,000

I am by far no expert on this sorta thing. You can clearly see the discoloration on the shaft. How ever you can also see from where I wiped it with a rag that it was being lubed with some grease.
opda-4.jpg   opda-6.jpg   opda-7.jpg   opda-8.jpg   opda-9.jpg  

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Unread 06-07-2011, 03:29 PM   #1385
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The front facing tooth surface should all have the same type of where which will be different from the rear facing tooth surface. That looks consistent with other wear patterns we've seen.

The upper shaft damage is the most damage I've seen to a functional OPDA with no symptoms. Most of the time it is scoring, but I never got a chance to look at mine with laughing monkey. There was a very old OPDA that I got from ChaseB (who got it from eBay) that had similar wear on the shaft.

The grease/sludge is not uncommon. Some of us have reported specks of black residue in the housing, however I don't think any of up know what it is. I would assume oil sludge due to a seal failure, but I can say for certain.

I would recommend a replacement. The upper shaft damage is severe enough for me to never trust it again. If you're inclined, you can try to clean it up with some sand paper and lube it good, but I couldn't justify not purchasing a new one for $120.

I would also highly recommend the FogMOD. Something damaged that upper shaft, whether heat, contamination, bushing wear, something. The FogMOD will help protect from heat and wear. I would consider you very lucky to have caught it.

EDIT: just to be clear, this is a non-modified unit? There are no signs of changes made to the housing or the area were the grease reservoir is located? Also, for curiosity's sake, if you can, remove the factory grease plug and clear it with a strong degreaser and hit it with some compressed air. Maybe you have a bastard unit that somehow allows grease in. Otherwise I would highly suspect sludge.
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Unread 06-07-2011, 03:40 PM   #1386
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Also I should add a detail with regards to the non-uniform wear pattern. When my OPDA suffered from laughing monkey and I removed it, there was a tight spot when turning it. It would get tight then release. Because you have more turning resistance you create more severe wear.
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Unread 06-07-2011, 03:59 PM   #1387
ItsMrHall
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Thanks for the reply Willy! Yes it is an unmodified unit. The different wear pattern on the gear is from the same side of the teeth, just rotated. I am about to order in a new unit, so when I return I will gladly pull the plug and throw some compressed air through it, I am very curious as well to see if grease in fact can get to the bushing somehow.
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Unread 06-07-2011, 06:53 PM   #1388
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Hey all...been following this for over a year now but havent been onsite since last fall so this collection of threads is new to me....anyways

I have an 05 LJ with 69k miles...called chrysler customer service and *****ed they replaced the opda and the camshaft/lifters last fall...ONLY had to pay 300$...i also have the 7/70...so it seems like the fix is NOT the fix...so what do i need to do? just replace the opda from time to time?

so can anyone give me the 'brief' summary of what is the scoop is so i dont have to read 93+pages...or point me to the page that sums it up...seems like there are some mods to do

thanks in advance for the help
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Unread 06-07-2011, 07:15 PM   #1389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItsMrHall View Post
Thanks for the reply Willy! Yes it is an unmodified unit. The different wear pattern on the gear is from the same side of the teeth, just rotated. I am about to order in a new unit, so when I return I will gladly pull the plug and throw some compressed air through it, I am very curious as well to see if grease in fact can get to the bushing somehow.
When you pull the plug you'll see the factory grease. That stuff is not factory grease (unless you're was packed with something unique). Get a good look at the seal and see if it is damaged. I suppose it could have worn aware enough of the shaft surface to allow some oil to get in. From dissected OPDA's we've seen there is no way for factory grease to get in from the reservoir. Are you the original owner?

If you don't mind I'd like to add the shaft damage pic to the front page.

Did you notice any restriction when turning the shaft before disassembly? What oil were you using and a presume 6 quarts no more no less?

Quote:
Originally Posted by boze_man
so can anyone give me the 'brief' summary of what is the scoop is so i dont have to read 93+pages...or point me to the page that sums it up...seems like there are some mods to do
Everything is on page 1 with pics. The consensus (although not necessarily unanimous) if the FogMOD being the best solution so far. There are rumors of upgraded OPDA's from a forum vendor and Chrysler however at this point they hold water like a sieve.

I've done the FogMOD to mine and for several forum members. As you mentioned doing nothing may yield another 10K or 100K before failure, but to put in the same part thinking it will miraculously not fail is not something I would recommend. Many have reported no issues with high miles, but with as many reports of trouble and in some cases engine failure, the FogMOD is some easy insurance.

You'll also note on the first page, high ZDDP oil recommendations. That theory is explained well on the first page.

I try to update the first page as new "credible" (quotes denote credible by my standard or the standard of members who provide a reasonable explanation) becomes available. All that is conjecture backed up with educational guesses and experience since I don't claim to be an oil, grease, or engine expert.

If anyone has seen some text or photos that they believe should be on the front page, please PM me.
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Unread 06-07-2011, 07:35 PM   #1390
Rubi4MyMrs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItsMrHall View Post
Thanks for the reply Willy! Yes it is an unmodified unit. The different wear pattern on the gear is from the same side of the teeth, just rotated. I am about to order in a new unit, so when I return I will gladly pull the plug and throw some compressed air through it, I am very curious as well to see if grease in fact can get to the bushing somehow.
Everything Willy said + a couple questions. Are you the original owner? (Maybe a previous owner had it apart & lubed it) Is the black residue in the housing at all similar to the grease on the shaft? Also, when you remove the grease cap you may find a similar material in the reservoir (black, not OEM grease). Back to the residue, I see in the photo that it looks like there is some on the ring under the wheel. Is that ring grooved at all? As Willy says, we've seen that before & sometimes the ring appears to be grooved pretty good. I wonder if they lack enough shaft end play causing interference between the ring & the top of the top bushing when hot. That friction would cause a lot of heat & possibly "melt" the ring down & throw off that black material. Check the clearance between the gear & the thrust washer. Someone, possibly the FOG, put his OPDA in a 200 degree oven & found that it turned much harder then than when cold.

You should mod the new unit or at least take it apart & oil the bushings. Some have reported that the new ones are coming to them completely dry.

My gear has the same uneven wear as yours. So yes we have seen that as well.
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Unread 06-07-2011, 08:55 PM   #1391
boze_man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Everything is on page 1 with pics. The consensus (although not necessarily unanimous) if the FogMOD being the best solution so far. There are rumors of upgraded OPDA's from a forum vendor and Chrysler however at this point they hold water like a sieve.

I've done the FogMOD to mine and for several forum members. As you mentioned doing nothing may yield another 10K or 100K before failure, but to put in the same part thinking it will miraculously not fail is not something I would recommend. Many have reported no issues with high miles, but with as many reports of trouble and in some cases engine failure, the FogMOD is some easy insurance.

You'll also note on the first page, high ZDDP oil recommendations. That theory is explained well on the first page.

I try to update the first page as new "credible" (quotes denote credible by my standard or the standard of members who provide a reasonable explanation) becomes available. All that is conjecture backed up with educational guesses and experience since I don't claim to be an oil, grease, or engine expert.
Thanks Willy...will review the first page...guess i will have to do the mod

As per high ZDDP oils...I had this prob with an old 911 i used to own...i would run high zinc dino oil then run a syn mobil1...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...s.php?ubb=cfrm had a list with zinc levels ...also try this link http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z7

thanks again
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Unread 06-07-2011, 10:11 PM   #1392
ItsMrHall
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ok, here goes after dissecting this thing and figuring out how it actually works here are my findings.

First off, please by all means use my pics on the front page, any info to help fellow jeepers is fine by me!

When I pulled it and give it a spin, it spun nice and smooth 5-6 times, no resistance/ hard spot found. I am not the original owner, I bought the jeep bone stock at 40,000ish Kms. I Don't see the original owner pulling it and lubing it himself, when I pulled it the first time, it didn't look like it had been apart before. However, who knows right?

As far as oil goes, I use 6quarts of Chevron supreme 10w-30 every 4000km. I am by far no oil expert and frankly, use the same oil my family has been using for years in their 4.0L.

After sitting down and really getting a good look at this thing. I can tell you that yes the black residue in the housing is the grease on the shaft. You can see from my picture that the grease is actually pushing up the shaft, over the ring, across the backside of the wheel and actually being flung around my housing. The ring under the wheel u can tell has been worn from metal to metal contact, but far from a "groove".

Ok, I pulled the stock grease plug out and found something I wasnt expecting. White material?? I thought it was white grease, but it seems almost like paper? Some sort of packing material? Im just throwing idea's into the wind here, wut else could it be for but to hold in the grease? Because when I blew compressed air into the hole. It did nothing but push back, went absolutly no where, because of course, that white material is blocking it from getting around the resovoir and through the holes to the bushing.

I don't want to sound like a total idiot, but the grease found on the shaft/in the housing smelt exactly like the white material found behind the plug. Im actually at a complete loss to what it is.

I know this is a terrible picture but looking down towards the bushings, u can see the black grease that was infact keeping the shaft lubed. Not well enough how ever as my shaft still changed color due to heat damage. As well as wear enough to scar the shaft itself. In the upper housing where the wheel/ sensor is, You can see the score marks along the wall where the shaft is actually worn out enough to touch the walls, as well as the sensor! I might add.

All and all I am extremly suprised it didn't let go, or at least give me any symptoms.

I hope I covered everything, and didn't sound like a compete noob in the process! !!
opda-10.jpg  
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Unread 06-07-2011, 11:08 PM   #1393
Rubi4MyMrs
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The black grease has to have been applied after initial delivery. The white “material” is exactly what I found in mine as have others. It is not blocking the holes in the bushing because no one has been able to find any passage from the reservoir to the shaft. That is why the bushing has to be drilled in any mod.

You should also take a good look at the cam gear.
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Unread 06-07-2011, 11:44 PM   #1394
ItsMrHall
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O.o meaning the upper bushing on my new unit I'm getting tomorrow is going to b completely dry?? Chrysler could never expect TJ owners to do this..
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Unread 06-08-2011, 01:02 AM   #1395
Rubi4MyMrs
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New OPDA-no top bushing lube

Quote:
Originally Posted by ItsMrHall View Post
O.o meaning the upper bushing on my new unit I'm getting tomorrow is going to b completely dry?? Chrysler could never expect TJ owners to do this..
Quote:
Originally Posted by chutta View Post
Anyone replacing the OPDA should disassemble it and lube the top bushing. My repl was DRY
This is one example. There are others since the recent batch arrived after being on national back order for several months. Chrysler apparently thinks the grease gets to the shaft through osmosis. This is a design flaw on all '05 & '06 4.0 TJs.

Tkki1230 got one that was missing the thrust washer. Great quality control.

Check your new one carefully & lube it up. Be sure to lube the gear as well.
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