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post #121 of Old 01-23-2011, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
willydigger
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Yeah it's flush. That was the first OPDA I modded and I put the hole a little high so the grease fitting was hard to put on.

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post #122 of Old 01-23-2011, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lope View Post
Not bad Willy, but tell that gal running the camera she did awesome!
That was very nice of you to say. She'll be glad to hear it. She did a great job.

I also updated the Modification section to include a link to the distributor mod you're working on.
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post #123 of Old 01-23-2011, 02:56 PM
Zetto
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willydigger,

Is there an alternative grease you can recommend? I am trying to install the FOGMod today but can not find Shell AeroShell 33MS anywhere.
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post #124 of Old 01-23-2011, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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willydigger,

Is there an alternative grease you can recommend? I am trying to install the FOGMod today but can not find Shell AeroShell 33MS anywhere.
Skygeek.com. I would get it from there. Most other "local" grease is too thick. It will take a few days to get it, but it's worth it. It will cost you about $25. It will be enough to last the life of your jeep.
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post #125 of Old 01-23-2011, 04:15 PM
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Forgive me, I am about to show my ignorance here. What is the purpose of the grub screw? Couldn't you just leave the factory cap and drill a hole for a zerk under the LDI label? Thanks for the info. I hope to do this next weekend.
--BTW-- That video is great--makes me even more comfortable with tackling this job. MANY thanks.
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post #126 of Old 01-23-2011, 05:13 PM
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Also wanting to say thanks for this thread. In April 2010 I took my Jeep to the dealer for a strange issue pointing to this assembly as the problem. They replaced it, but Chrysler refused to cover any of the costs, so I ended up paying almost $3200 out of pocket to get the assembly replaced.

7K miles later, I'm experiencing a similar issue, pulled out the OPDA myself (thanks for the video - I wouldn't have felt comfortable any other way!), and found severe wear on the gear. I'm at a loss at this point, I don't feel comfortable making the shaft modifications (don't really have the money), and can't keep throwing money at this.
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post #127 of Old 01-23-2011, 05:13 PM
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There is a reservoir around the upper bushing. What we do with the grub screw is pull the factory cap out and drill through the bushing into the bore so grease can get into the shaft. Then we put in the grub screw to plug up the hole. After that we drill the hole though only the outer part of the housing, not into the actually bushing and install the zerk. This allows us to A.flush out all the old crap grease in the reservoir and B.allows us to fill up the reservoir with new Aeroshell 33MS grease.

If you wanted to you could just drill a hole on the side all the way into the bore and put a zerk fitting on it. The only problem is when you go to push grease in with a grease gun the pressure WILL pop the factory fill plug out.

In memory of Samantha Sue 1998 to Dec-16-10 at 2:15PM. She may have had 4 legs and a tail but she was the best friend I ever had and helped me through some really tough times. I hope to see her again one day.
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post #128 of Old 01-23-2011, 05:44 PM
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Got it. Thanks FOG.
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post #129 of Old 01-23-2011, 06:26 PM
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They replaced it, but Chrysler refused to cover any of the costs, so I ended up paying almost $3200 out of pocket to get the assembly replaced.
Dang, did it blow your motor? I hope that wasn't just for the OPDA!
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post #130 of Old 01-23-2011, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFog View Post
There is a reservoir around the upper bushing. What we do with the grub screw is pull the factory cap out and drill through the bushing into the bore so grease can get into the shaft. Then we put in the grub screw to plug up the hole. After that we drill the hole though only the outer part of the housing, not into the actually bushing and install the zerk. This allows us to A.flush out all the old crap grease in the reservoir and B.allows us to fill up the reservoir with new Aeroshell 33MS grease.

If you wanted to you could just drill a hole on the side all the way into the bore and put a zerk fitting on it. The only problem is when you go to push grease in with a grease gun the pressure WILL pop the factory fill plug out.
Adding this to the Q&A. Thanks again FOG.
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post #131 of Old 01-24-2011, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
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Updated the Problems section with the "laughing monkey" video made by fropleyquark. Thanks!
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post #132 of Old 01-24-2011, 06:54 AM
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Updated the Problems section with the "laughing monkey" video made by fropleyquark. Thanks!
Wow, praying I never have to hear that!

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post #133 of Old 01-24-2011, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grnberet2b View Post
Also wanting to say thanks for this thread. In April 2010 I took my Jeep to the dealer for a strange issue pointing to this assembly as the problem. They replaced it, but Chrysler refused to cover any of the costs, so I ended up paying almost $3200 out of pocket to get the assembly replaced.
What did they replace for $3200? I've been thinking that if it were needed a rebuilt engine might cost around $4000 complete. Am I way off base in that amount? Does anyone know what would a rebuilt engine would cost to buy and have installed?

Current: 2005 Wrangler Unlimited - Past: 90 and 92 Trackers and 98 Wrangler SE
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post #134 of Old 01-24-2011, 07:37 AM
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What did they replace for $3200? I've been thinking that if it were needed a rebuilt engine might cost around $4000 complete. Am I way off base in that amount? Does anyone know what would a rebuilt engine would cost to buy and have installed?
A lot of it was diagnosis labor costs. They drove it, reproduced the issue, flashed the PCM, drove it, reproduced the issue, started ripping the engine apart, found the issue, continued ripping it apart to get to the camshaft because it was also in bad condition, then replaced everything and put it back together. Came out to something like 21 hours of labor all said and done.

I scanned the invoice, you can see it here. Page 2 is just totals.
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post #135 of Old 01-24-2011, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grnberet2b View Post
A lot of it was diagnosis labor costs. They drove it, reproduced the issue, flashed the PCM, drove it, reproduced the issue, started ripping the engine apart, found the issue, continued ripping it apart to get to the camshaft because it was also in bad condition, then replaced everything and put it back together. Came out to something like 21 hours of labor all said and done.

I scanned the invoice, you can see it here. Page 2 is just totals.
Did they replace your OPDA when they did all this? Seems odd that you would have severe wear in only 7000 miles if they did.

Current: 2005 Wrangler Unlimited - Past: 90 and 92 Trackers and 98 Wrangler SE
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