2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 81 - JeepForum.com
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post #1201 of 5527 Old 05-08-2011, 06:01 PM
TJJP77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Where did you find the spec? Which bulletin are you referring to?
Well, technically it's not a bulletin - it's in dealer portion of the "E05" customer satisfacation notice. It tells the technician to verify the clearance in between the gear and the thrust washer after replacing the gear with the new part in the kit.


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post #1202 of 5527 Old 05-08-2011, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJJP77 View Post
Well, technically it's not a bulletin - it's in dealer portion of the "E05" customer satisfacation notice. It tells the technician to verify the clearance in between the gear and the thrust washer after replacing the gear with the new part in the kit.
Thanks, I didn't know there was more to the E05 than willy posted on page 1. Do you have a copy? Is there any more helpful info in it?
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post #1203 of 5527 Old 05-08-2011, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweeney View Post
The play at the thrust bearing is not critical to the shaft so much as it is to the engagement at the oil pump.
Quote:
Originally Posted by surfcat2000 View Post
We put the new one in and got it running before we took a look at the one we took out. We were focused on getting the new one timed right. I wish we would of measured the play on the new one. I like to use 010" on air cooled engines crankshaft endplay. I was just worried about the gear riding up and down on the cam gear. Maybe is doesn't. Eric has 80,000 miles on his Rubi and everything looked fine. Jeff
You can see from the various photos in this thread (mine included) that there is plenty of engagement into the oil pump slot. So even that is not critical. Engagement point on the cam gear is the other consideration. There again, itís not that critical. It should be more or less in the center. There is a good article on this & some oil info as well at http://www.classicinlines.com/DizzyGear.asp that was referenced earlier, but worth reviewing for those joining late. You can tell where it engages by checking the wear pattern on the gear. Itís similar to checking the pattern on ring & pinions in the differential.

I canít say for sure that the gear doesnít ride up & down during operation but I donít think it does. I would think that there is enough drag from the oil pump to keep the gear against the thrust washer even under engine deceleration.

You can still check the play on the installed OPDA if you have a dial indicator. Take the cap off & check it at the wheel. You could even check it hot & cold to see if there is much difference.
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post #1204 of 5527 Old 05-08-2011, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Thanks, I didn't know there was more to the E05 than willy posted on page 1. Do you have a copy? Is there any more helpful info in it?
Probably not helpful for our situation. It basically starts off with using the scan tool to check the cam/crank variance vs. the learned value when the vehicle was new. If the variance between the two values is less than 2 degrees, then just replace the gear. If it's more than 2 degrees, replace the gear and the camshaft. The rest of it just outlines the step-by-step process to replace the gear only or the camshaft and the gear, depending on the outcome of the initial scan tool test.

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post #1205 of 5527 Old 05-10-2011, 12:24 PM
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many thanks for compiling all this info.

My 05 LJ just started reporting low oil pressure @idle a day after an oil change, two days later I'm getting this horrid screaming monkey sound.

I dont know if its just a coincidence but I'm going to order the parts and replace it when I get back from out of town. Quite pissed I even have to replace a part like this on my LJ, just finally hit 60k miles, fluid changes have been regular and I use good stuff.

-D2
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post #1206 of 5527 Old 05-10-2011, 02:54 PM
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ugh, called Jeep dealer and they said the part is on national backorder until end of the month. Huzzah...

So in essence I can't drive my LJ until this is fixed unless I'm okay with a destroyed motor that isnt going to be covered by Jeep.

Pure awesome

-D2
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post #1207 of 5527 Old 05-10-2011, 05:11 PM
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Mine still hasn't come in. Ordered in December.

2013 JKU Rubicon
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post #1208 of 5527 Old 05-10-2011, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtnduey View Post
ugh, called Jeep dealer and they said the part is on national backorder until end of the month. Huzzah...

So in essence I can't drive my LJ until this is fixed unless I'm okay with a destroyed motor that isnt going to be covered by Jeep.

Pure awesome
Just to be sure, did you try dodgewholesale.com? The info is on the first page. Also another alternative to get you on the road is to tear the old one apart and clean the shaft. Try 2000grit paper. Buy a 3/16 punch and knock out the roll pin. Sand and grease the shaft and reinstall. I assume your gear is toast. If that's the case you can get a gear from a 2004 OPDA and drill out the hole to fit yours. It is a mid-term fix, but if you need your Jeep it is a better option that nothing.

There may be people on the board willing to lend/sell you a replacement. I have a worn unit I can fab up to get you going. It's old and worn, but it will work for a short term solution. I can install a new gear and FogMOD it, it might last forever. Just throwing out ideas.

I am reluctant to believe everything will be fine again in a month. With the history of these things, when they go on back order it's for several months and this last time with a hefty increase in price.


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post #1209 of 5527 Old 05-11-2011, 04:55 AM
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Modified my (badly scored shaft) opda this past weekend then changed oil to VR1 10w30 Monday night (its wednesday). I dont usually put alot of faith in info on the internet but much of what I find on this thread seemed from knowledgeable people. Strange but motor seemed to run better on VR1....THEN this morning when I started it up to go to work, I heard a ticking sound and quick glanced down at oil pressure and it was low. I instinctively shut it off. May have not had chance to build pressure (maybe 4-5 seconds) but ticking sound was as soon as motor started. Motor has 50000 miles. It was 60 out so cold isn't an issue. When I started it back up all was well and oil pressure looked fine. I can't see the oil making that much difference although this and the filter (NAPA Gold) are the only changes. I read on another thread where someone else had this issue last year after switching to 10w30 (no brand stated) but no good replys to explane it. If it happens again, I will change the filter (??sticking check valve??) then if again the oil. The ticking sounded more like that of an exhaust tick than a lifter but all sounds good now. Any ideas??
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post #1210 of 5527 Old 05-11-2011, 06:04 AM
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I've had the same, lasting maybe a second only immediately at start up and maybe three times

05x 4.0 6sp 30/35, aussie front, 3.73's, r/c 4"x lift, adv adptr sye, shifter bracket, tw cv ds, 33 t/c skid, 33x12.5 dunlop mud rovers on steelies, psc sport cage/rockers, warn fr bump/steer and 30 diff skid, sirius,cb, hand throttle 1"bl/mml 265/16's pepboys at's on orig moabs for street. Lowrance H20c for gps
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post #1211 of 5527 Old 05-11-2011, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTGTrucks View Post
Modified my (badly scored shaft) opda this past weekend then changed oil to VR1 10w30 Monday night (its wednesday). I dont usually put alot of faith in info on the internet but much of what I find on this thread seemed from knowledgeable people. Strange but motor seemed to run better on VR1....THEN this morning when I started it up to go to work, I heard a ticking sound and quick glanced down at oil pressure and it was low. I instinctively shut it off. May have not had chance to build pressure (maybe 4-5 seconds) but ticking sound was as soon as motor started. Motor has 50000 miles. It was 60 out so cold isn't an issue. When I started it back up all was well and oil pressure looked fine. I can't see the oil making that much difference although this and the filter (NAPA Gold) are the only changes. I read on another thread where someone else had this issue last year after switching to 10w30 (no brand stated) but no good replys to explane it. If it happens again, I will change the filter (??sticking check valve??) then if again the oil. The ticking sounded more like that of an exhaust tick than a lifter but all sounds good now. Any ideas??
My thought is the filter check valve too. Especially if it only happens after sitting overnight but not when re-starting after only a short time. Were you running a thicker oil previously? The ticking may be a lifter that is leaking down (not necessarily a big issue). That would be more noticeable with a thinner oil. Delayed OP, filter, ticking, lifter.
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post #1212 of 5527 Old 05-11-2011, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTGTrucks View Post
Modified my (badly scored shaft) opda this past weekend then changed oil to VR1 10w30 Monday night (its wednesday). I dont usually put alot of faith in info on the internet but much of what I find on this thread seemed from knowledgeable people. Strange but motor seemed to run better on VR1....THEN this morning when I started it up to go to work, I heard a ticking sound and quick glanced down at oil pressure and it was low. I instinctively shut it off. May have not had chance to build pressure (maybe 4-5 seconds) but ticking sound was as soon as motor started. Motor has 50000 miles. It was 60 out so cold isn't an issue. When I started it back up all was well and oil pressure looked fine. I can't see the oil making that much difference although this and the filter (NAPA Gold) are the only changes. I read on another thread where someone else had this issue last year after switching to 10w30 (no brand stated) but no good replys to explane it. If it happens again, I will change the filter (??sticking check valve??) then if again the oil. The ticking sounded more like that of an exhaust tick than a lifter but all sounds good now. Any ideas??
I have the same issue happen a couple times a week minus the low oil pressure. My Jeep actually is missing along with the tick. I cure it it every time with a quick shut off and restart, sometimes while driving down the road. I have NO IDEA why this cures it, there are threads that talk about this as well.

Rod
05' LJ

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post #1213 of 5527 Old 05-11-2011, 01:12 PM
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I'm not sure what oil was in it. This is the first change since I bought it. My guess is it was 5w30(as labled on factory oil cap). It had a Mopar filter on it. I watched the gauge when I started it at lunch and it takes a few seconds (as is normal) to build pressure and no noise. I am really siding tward the the oil filter draining back while sitting all night.
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post #1214 of 5527 Old 05-12-2011, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTGTrucks View Post
I'm not sure what oil was in it. This is the first change since I bought it. My guess is it was 5w30(as labled on factory oil cap)....
I thought the factory called for 10w30? Reason I'm asking is because I switched to the 5w40 TDT Mobil after Willydigger modded my OPDA.

I'll be pulling my OPDA soon (maybe this weekend) to check for wear since it's been about 3K miles since it was modded. Will post the results.
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post #1215 of 5527 Old 05-12-2011, 06:21 AM
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Mine has the random tick on cold starts occasionally...same deal, shut off and restart and it's gone. I have a ticking sound like an exhaust leak as we'll.....

I was thinking a sticky lifter.
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