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Unread 05-06-2011, 07:36 PM   #1186
surfcat2000
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I'm sure this question has been asked but why don't you take the sensor out while the OPDA is still in the engine that way you don't have to mess with the shavings and the connector. I took out mine 2 times to check it and then once more to do the modification when I got the grease. Each time I just pulled the sensor out and left it attached to the harness. I put a drop of loctight on the sensor bolt the last time. Jeff

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Unread 05-06-2011, 07:59 PM   #1187
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I took mine out when I modded it as well.
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Unread 05-06-2011, 11:25 PM   #1188
Rubi4MyMrs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfcat2000 View Post
I'm sure this question has been asked but why don't you take the sensor out while the OPDA is still in the engine that way you don't have to mess with the shavings and the connector. I took out mine 2 times to check it and then once more to do the modification when I got the grease. Each time I just pulled the sensor out and left it attached to the harness. I put a drop of loctight on the sensor bolt the last time. Jeff
I agree, I removed the CPS as well. I'm not sure loctight is a good idea, though. I actually used anti-seize on the threads. I even used anti-seize on the cap bolts. I think it is always a good idea to do that any time there are steel threads into aluminum.

Update.

I have been waiting for a Crown gear from 4WD Parts. Crown has been temporarily out of stock. One is now on its way but I wasn’t able to wait another week. I dropped the OPDA back in using the old gear. I didn’t turn the engine with the OPDA out so I could only see a couple of teeth on the cam gear but they look surprisingly good considering the gear’s wear pattern. I changed to VR1 10-30. I fired it up. NO CODES! I will now start checking the oil consumption in the OPDA & report on that soon.

A note on the VR1. I used 10-30 as recommended for the 4.0 & had to have O’Reillys order it. Even though it was a “special order” from their local warehouse, they gave me the $2.99 sale price. I’m happy about that. The guy there said it was a new product so they haven’t stocked it yet. I noticed there is no API seal. It does state that it “exceeds engine protection requirements for API services SM/SL/CD and all preceding API gasoline categories”. Checking Valvoline’s Product Information; I see that as of 12/6/2010 the 20-50, 30, 40 & 50 meets API SN/SM/SL but not the 10-30 or 60. I also verified that the 20-50, 30, 40 & 50 have the API seal, while the 60 also does not. Not sure what that all means but I’m still trying it.
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Unread 05-07-2011, 06:24 AM   #1189
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Quote:
A note on the VR1. I used 10-30 as recommended for the 4.0 & had to have O’Reillys order it. Even though it was a “special order” from their local warehouse, they gave me the $2.99 sale price. I’m happy about that. The guy there said it was a new product so they haven’t stocked it yet. I noticed there is no API seal.
I wish!! My NAPA is the only place that carries it locally and it is $8.39 a quart!
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Unread 05-07-2011, 06:40 AM   #1190
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As Rubi4 said, "A note on the VR1. I used 10-30 as recommended for the 4.0 & had to have O’Reillys order it. Even though it was a “special order” from their local warehouse, they gave me the $2.99 sale price. I’m happy about that. The guy there said it was a new product so they haven’t stocked it yet. I noticed there is no API seal. It does state that it “exceeds engine protection requirements for API services SM/SL/CD and all preceding API gasoline categories”. Checking Valvoline’s Product Information; I see that as of 12/6/2010 the 20-50, 30, 40 & 50 meets API SN/SM/SL but not the 10-30 or 60. I also verified that the 20-50, 30, 40 & 50 have the API seal, while the 60 also does not. Not sure what that all means but I’m still trying it."

10-30 is rated SM/SL/CD, as I understand from the oil blogs Valvoline is walking the line by advertising it as a racing oil, not a street oil. I guess that way they protect themselves if a consumer has a cat converter problem.
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Unread 05-07-2011, 07:30 AM   #1191
surfcat2000
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Loctight

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
I agree, I removed the CPS as well. I'm not sure loctight is a good idea, though. I actually used anti-seize on the threads. I even used anti-seize on the cap bolts. I think it is always a good idea to do that any time there are steel threads into aluminum.

Update.

I have been waiting for a Crown gear from 4WD Parts. Crown has been temporarily out of stock. One is now on its way but I wasn’t able to wait another week. I dropped the OPDA back in using the old gear. I didn’t turn the engine with the OPDA out so I could only see a couple of teeth on the cam gear but they look surprisingly good considering the gear’s wear pattern. I changed to VR1 10-30. I fired it up. NO CODES! I will now start checking the oil consumption in the OPDA & report on that soon.

A note on the VR1. I used 10-30 as recommended for the 4.0 & had to have O’Reillys order it. Even though it was a “special order” from their local warehouse, they gave me the $2.99 sale price. I’m happy about that. The guy there said it was a new product so they haven’t stocked it yet. I noticed there is no API seal. It does state that it “exceeds engine protection requirements for API services SM/SL/CD and all preceding API gasoline categories”. Checking Valvoline’s Product Information; I see that as of 12/6/2010 the 20-50, 30, 40 & 50 meets API SN/SM/SL but not the 10-30 or 60. I also verified that the 20-50, 30, 40 & 50 have the API seal, while the 60 also does not. Not sure what that all means but I’m still trying it.
It looks like mine had blue loctight on the bolt from the factory. I've been working on alloy engine cases for 40 years and used it with no problems. I use anti seize on spark plugs though. Jeff
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Unread 05-07-2011, 08:59 AM   #1192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roundlitefan View Post
I wish!! My NAPA is the only place that carries it locally and it is $8.39 a quart!
Got mine at Amazon.com. $5.22 / qt. No shipping charge.
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Unread 05-07-2011, 02:49 PM   #1193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roundlitefan View Post
I wish!! My NAPA is the only place that carries it locally and it is $8.39 a quart!
Quote:
Originally Posted by njseifrick View Post
Got mine at Amazon.com. $5.22 / qt. No shipping charge.
Yes the $2.99 is a great price. I got enough for about 3 yrs. I got the flyer with our Sunday paper. It was an 8 page ad. Online the ad was only 4 pages. The VR1 was on a page missing from the online version. I assumed that the VR1 was a local or regional sale. Here (CA/NV) the regular O’Reilly price is $4.89 so you may want to check there. (it’s conventional, not synthetic)
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Unread 05-07-2011, 02:59 PM   #1194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfcat2000 View Post
It looks like mine had blue loctight on the bolt from the factory. I've been working on alloy engine cases for 40 years and used it with no problems. I use anti seize on spark plugs though. Jeff
You are right about loctight, mine had it on the CPS bolt as well. Chrysler really didn’t want us messing around in there. In the FSM they emphasize not to turn the OPDA to try to adjust the timing. Look how tight they have the hold down bracket bolt. Mine even has the threads scored to make removal extra difficult. The cap bolts on mine were really tight too, no need for that.

Jeff, you have experience with loctight & that’s good. I just wanted to caution anyone not familiar with loctight type products.

To me, loctight is for more or less permanent installation, not when regular removal is required. Sure they have various grades some less “permanent” than others. Still, its aluminum & I don’t think the CPS is going to fall out if the bolt is tightened a reasonable amount.

I figured that since I plan on checking it occasionally, I don’t want problems with the aluminum threads. Like sparkplugs in aluminum heads, galling is always a potential problem with aluminum engine parts because of the heat, different expansion rates, & relative softness of the aluminum.

This brings up a good point if anyone removes the CPS before pulling their OPDA.

Anyone removing the CPS needs to use care removing the bolt. Since the bolt probably has loctight, remove it slowly, it is a good idea to remove it with a back & forth motion. 1 turn out, ˝ turn in, 1 out, etc.. That allows the threads to clear the sealant & keeps the threads from overheating the aluminum (from the added friction of the sealant).
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Unread 05-07-2011, 05:16 PM   #1195
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Well, step one of my multi-step process to replace my cam got done today....with the help of a friend, we recovered the freon from my A/C.

While he was doing that, I pulled my OPDA again to check the fit of the older (Pre '05) OEM gear I purchased. I was pleased to discover that the one pre-drilled hole in it lines up perfectly, and once I get ready to do the whole job I'll just run a drill through it to make the other hole.

Hopefully sometime over the next couple of weeks, I'll embark on the cam replacement itself and then I can be done with this problem.
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Unread 05-08-2011, 07:47 AM   #1196
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Thanks to Jeff, (Surfcat) we finished the mod on my recently purchased new OPDA last night. Also, added the mod on my original unit that has 80k miles on it. On the original unit, we found the thrust washer had .20/1000 play in it which we thought was unusual. Anyone else seeing that much slop between their thrust washer and gear?
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Unread 05-08-2011, 09:34 AM   #1197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4Us View Post
On the original unit, we found the thrust washer had .20/1000 play in it which we thought was unusual.
The spec (according to the bulletin) is 0.010" to 0.030"...
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Unread 05-08-2011, 11:49 AM   #1198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJJP77 View Post
The spec (according to the bulletin) is 0.010" to 0.030"...
Where did you find the spec? Which bulletin are you referring to?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4Us View Post
Thanks to Jeff, (Surfcat) we finished the mod on my recently purchased new OPDA last night. Also, added the mod on my original unit that has 80k miles on it. On the original unit, we found the thrust washer had .20/1000 play in it which we thought was unusual. Anyone else seeing that much slop between their thrust washer and gear?
My OPDA has about .038" play. Since the gear was re-drilled, I checked what the play would be in the other set of holes. That would have been about .028" Both checked cold.

Either way, I think there needs to be some play because the housing will expand when hot reducing the play. In at least one photo posted I could see that the top plastic washer was grooved pretty good. To me that says that there was not enough play causing binding against the top bushing. This would cause friction & heat. Not what you want on the top bushing that is already having issues. That top washer is only there for the shaft to rest on when not turning. When running, the shaft lifts & rides against the thrust washer. My top washer was in perfect condition. No groove at all.

Since you also have a new one, what is the play in it?
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Unread 05-08-2011, 01:00 PM   #1199
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The play at the thrust bearing is not critical to the shaft so much as it is to the engagement at the oil pump.
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Unread 05-08-2011, 02:41 PM   #1200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Where did you find the spec? Which bulletin are you referring to?




My OPDA has about .038" play. Since the gear was re-drilled, I checked what the play would be in the other set of holes. That would have been about .028" Both checked cold.

Either way, I think there needs to be some play because the housing will expand when hot reducing the play. In at least one photo posted I could see that the top plastic washer was grooved pretty good. To me that says that there was not enough play causing binding against the top bushing. This would cause friction & heat. Not what you want on the top bushing that is already having issues. That top washer is only there for the shaft to rest on when not turning. When running, the shaft lifts & rides against the thrust washer. My top washer was in perfect condition. No groove at all.

Since you also have a new one, what is the play in it?
We put the new one in and got it running before we took a look at the one we took out. We were focused on getting the new one timed right. I wish we would of measured the play on the new one. I like to use 010" on air cooled engines crankshaft endplay. I was just worried about the gear riding up and down on the cam gear. Maybe is doesn't. Eric has 80,000 miles on his Rubi and everything looked fine. Jeff
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