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Advance Adapters SYE KitsARTEC JK UNDER ARMOR - 4 door Bellypan Kits~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 01-21-2011, 04:39 PM   #106
Jeffro06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJXTWO View Post
I assume this is because of the higher ZDDP levels? I am running Mobil 1 10-30 full synthetic and adding ZDDP to the oil. Is there another reason to run the TD oil?
I was recommended in post #9. I tried it, it seems to be working.

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Unread 01-21-2011, 04:44 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffro06 View Post
I was recommended in post #9. I tried it, it seems to be working.
Cool, just wondering if I missed something in the thread.

BTW: you are lucky if your dealer has the OPDA. I just talked to my dealer today, and they only show two dealers in their system with one in stock each. One of the dealers has a note saying the part is not for sale. I am actually going to call the other dealer monday and see if they are willing to sell. Good luck.
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Unread 01-21-2011, 04:57 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJXTWO View Post
BTW: you are lucky if your dealer has the OPDA.
I don't think they have one, but I'm not as worried about failure now as I was, thanks to the advice here about the oil, and that I've got my "claim" number on file with Chrysler. If it starts chirpping I'll stop driving it.

I think we all need some luck with this issue. Chrysler needs to fix it, not just throw a band-aid on it.
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Moab Trails I've done: Onion Creek, Long Canyon, Dome Plateau, Top of The World (2), Fins-N-Things (2), Poison Spider,
Golden Spike, Gold Bar Rim, Hell's Revenge (2), Baby Lion Back, Cliff Hanger, Moab Rim, Kane Creek Canyon, Strike Ravine

Shortcuts to key points in my build: MTRk's OME 2" HD Lift Antirock Skidrow steering box & radiator skids LoD rear bumper
Rokmen Mercenary bumper w/Superwinch Rokmen sliders Skidrow engine skid Rampage Top CB set up
Custom trunk Rokmen 1" Billet spacers JJ track bar Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms Currectlync Steering
Rokmen Trail Corners Metalcloak Overlines Kentrol Hood Latches JK Turn Signals Xenon 4" Flat Flares Hood Decal Duratracs
Derale Tranny Cooler DieHard Factor 55 Thimble Ten Factory Front Chromo Shafts

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Unread 01-21-2011, 04:58 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJXTWO View Post
Cool, just wondering if I missed something in the thread.

BTW: you are lucky if your dealer has the OPDA. I just talked to my dealer today, and they only show two dealers in their system with one in stock each. One of the dealers has a note saying the part is not for sale. I am actually going to call the other dealer monday and see if they are willing to sell. Good luck.
Best of luck, I know another member had already tried that dealer with no luck. What the hell are they going to do with it then? Bastards

And I'm changing my oil Monday, not going to wait another two thousand miles. Diesel TJ here I come lol
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Unread 01-21-2011, 05:03 PM   #110
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This movie is taking forever. I would expect it to be done late tonight. Then however long it takes to upload to Youtube.
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Unread 01-22-2011, 05:45 AM   #111
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Wow that was really complicated. I had to convert it, enable, edit, save, and upload. Anyway here it is. I ran out of daylight so I didn't get any video of inserting the screwdriver. Hopefully this should give people some confidence with the removal.

T20 torx for the lid bolts
1/2 -6 point wrench for the retaining bolt


I few interesting comments. I recommended the 6-point wrench and then ended up using the open end. To clarify, I did work on an OPDA where the bolt was rounded. A 12-point would not engage and the open end slipped as well. With a 6-point you'll get a good grip on a rounded bolt. If your bolt is in good shape (like mine was in the video) a 12-point will work.

Also at the end (11:19) I misspoke and said "don't turn the engine off". I should have instead said "don't turn the engine on". NEVER turn the engine on unless you are comfortable with the reinstallation.

Finally, I'll likely do another video in the spring. When it's times to pull the OPDA for inspection. I'll put this video on the first page and then when I do a better one, I'll replace it.
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Unread 01-22-2011, 06:42 AM   #112
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The video really cleared things up! Thanks for taking the time to make it. Just to clarify what happens exactly with the oil pump when the OPDA won't go back in? When using the flat head in the hole, do you turn it in a certain direction?
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Unread 01-22-2011, 06:50 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
The video really cleared things up! Thanks for taking the time to make it. Just to clarify what happens exactly with the oil pump when the OPDA won't go back in? When using the flat head in the hole, do you turn it in a certain direction?
I was afraid of that question. For whatever reason (cold, rushing, whatever) the oil pump moved a little when I pulled out the OPDA. The bottom has a flat key that will fit into the slot on the oil pump. You have to take the screwdriver and put it in the oil pump slot and tweak it so that when the OPDA shaft goes in, it lines up right. The oil pump will spin easily. Generally it's a little to the left or right. Place the target wheel match mark on the start mark (not the sensor mark) and look at how the bottom slot is facing. They turn the oil pump to get close to that alignment. It takes a little trial and error. I ran out of daylight or I would have shown the whole process. It is probably the most nerve-wracking part.

When I redo the video I will purposely mess it up and fix on camera.
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Unread 01-22-2011, 07:02 AM   #114
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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I was afraid of that question. For whatever reason (cold, rushing, whatever) the oil pump moved a little when I pulled out the OPDA. The bottom has a flat key that will fit into the slot on the oil pump. You have to take the screwdriver and put it in the oil pump slot and tweak it so that when the OPDA shaft goes in, it lines up right. The oil pump will spin easily. Generally it's a little to the left or right. Place the target wheel match mark on the start mark (not the sensor mark) and look at how the bottom slot is facing. They turn the oil pump to get close to that alignment. It takes a little trial and error. I ran out of daylight or I would have shown the whole process. It is probably the most nerve-wracking part.

When I redo the video I will purposely mess it up and fix on camera.
I understand now, the bottom of the OPDA fits into that slot and and you just have to turn it (on the oil pump) so that when the OPDA goes back in it will fall into that slot?

My lack of knowledge of anything engine related is apparent!
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Unread 01-22-2011, 07:50 AM   #115
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Either my chirping is the OPDA or a pass side U-joint I swapped out(ears werent perfect straight).
It will chirp briefly when cold, can not duplicate stopped, nor does it rise/fall in pitch with the revs, only go away below about 7mph.
disco'd the front driveshaft to rule out those joints.
Pretty sure it's the OPDA and maybe more, as the motor ticks/clicks after the chirping like a lifter failing.
When all is warm things smooth out.
It's friggin 12 degrees out up here, going to try to do it Sunday aft and get it back together right this time
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Unread 01-22-2011, 08:40 AM   #116
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I'm a backyard mechanic and your video Willydigger of the R/R of the OPDA is terrific. Thank you for your effort. The Fog deserves much credit too.
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Unread 01-22-2011, 01:22 PM   #117
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Just want to say "THANK YOU" for freezing you *** off for us. It is certainly appreciated. Exceptional job!
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Unread 01-22-2011, 06:35 PM   #118
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Not bad Willy, but tell that gal running the camera she did awesome!
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Unread 01-23-2011, 01:55 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Wow that was really complicated. I had to convert it, enable, edit, save, and upload. Anyway here it is. I ran out of daylight so I didn't get any video of inserting the screwdriver. Hopefully this should give people some confidence with the removal.

T20 torx for the lid bolts
1/2 -6 point wrench for the retaining bolt

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3qJxlV_GJ4

I few interesting comments. I recommended the 6-point wrench and then ended up using the open end. To clarify, I did work on an OPDA where the bolt was rounded. A 12-point would not engage and the open end slipped as well. With a 6-point you'll get a good grip on a rounded bolt. If your bolt is in good shape (like mine was in the video) a 12-point will work.

Also at the end (11:19) I misspoke and said "don't turn the engine off". I should have instead said "don't turn the engine on". NEVER turn the engine on unless you are comfortable with the reinstallation.

Finally, I'll likely do another video in the spring. When it's times to pull the OPDA for inspection. I'll put this video on the first page and then when I do a better one, I'll replace it.
You're the man. It was cold as **** today and yesterday in MD, and windy.
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Unread 01-23-2011, 06:55 AM   #120
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Wily - Great video.
Looks like you ended up with a "flush" grease fitting. Did I see it correctly?
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