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Unread 04-21-2011, 11:31 PM   #1051
TJJP77
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^ I hate to say this, but the longer wear marks on the one side of your gear show the typical striation wear of a gear that's worn past the outer hardened layer - I'd suggest trying to get a better look at your camshaft gear - I'd be willing to bet it shows similar wear.

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Unread 04-22-2011, 12:03 AM   #1052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeep

How was it that you had possesion of the Jeep, if every thing was so trashed, and not the dealer?

( sorry about your loss BTW )
Chrysler agreed to pay for it, and the dealer said i could keep driving it till they could fix it, so that's what I did. I pretty much never drove it on the street (maybe 10-15 miles). But I did wheel it. I drove it to and from the park on a trailer. Once the dealer re synced the OPDA, it rarely would give me problems.

If they would have said to not drive it, I wouldn't have.
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Unread 04-22-2011, 12:12 AM   #1053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs

As Willy says, they are off center. I’m not sure if that was intended or not. That is probably why some replacement gears have only one hole in them (from what I’ve heard). That allows the buyer to finish drilling to match their particular misalignment.

Here’s where I’m at. As an update, I have an early ‘05 LJ that had the gear replaced as a recall. I have 25,000 miles now. I have not experienced any definite symptoms. A couple of times last Dec. I thought I may have heard the laughing monkey briefly but it was gone before I could stop & open the hood so I’m not sure

I just pulled the OPDA & disassembled it. Where to start? The gear had 4 holes (all 3/16") so it was a recalled gear that was re-drilled. I don’t know where they got the replacement gears but they were apparently already drilled. They actually had to be re-drilled as part of the replacement process. I think I read that there even was a drill bit included in the package. I marked the gear to get it back in the correct place. Turns out I didn’t have to do that. With 4 possibilities, only one matches, the others don’t even comes close to matching. There was no binding & the shaft spun freely. The shaft had a little oil film on it including the top near the wheel. Wiping with a paper towel confirmed that. There is slight scoring (meaning not deep) on the lower shaft & signs of some heat to the top area. The bushings look pretty good. There is the typical dark ring on the shaft in the seal area. That ring is not grooved like some have experienced. The gear has a very uneven wear pattern. The contact area is much greater on one side than the other (180 apart). I’m not sure what that means but I suspect just poor manufacturing tolerances. It looks bad but the shinny area is not deep. As I said, I don’t know where Chrysler got the replacement gears used in the recall. Maybe they were left over ‘04s? I couldn’t get a real good look at the cam gear but it looks OK.

I checked the shaft end play. It has about .038” The other set of holes would reduce that to about .028” as the holes are at different distances from the end of the gear. I’m not sure if that was intentional or drilling error by the tech that drilled it.

That tech may have done me a favor. He apparently oiled the shaft before re-installation. I’m basing that on the fact that there was some oil on the shaft & when I removed the factory fill plug the grease in the reservoir was dried but not real hard.

I have now finished a modified FOGMod. I followed Willy’s instructions but I installed an oil cup instead of the grease zerk. If it doesn’t work as expected, I can change it to the zerk.

Heath, Sorry to hear about the ’05 LJ. Sounds like you recovered nicely to find an ’06 LJ Rubi. I’ve only seen one ’05 subject to that recall besides mine & they both had the gear re-drilled so I agree with you that it wasn’t done. I went on Jeep.com but can’t find any verification that it was done on mine.
Thanks.

The dealer and myself both have pictures of the 05s OPDA, and the gear looked nothing like that. It had clearly never been touched. Not that it would have made any difference IMO, but I think it was a large determining factor in Chrysler paying up.

As for my LJ, I love it. It is identical to what my TJ was in every way but its an LJ. Impact Orange, LJ, Rubicon, automatic, dual tops, one owner, pristine with all oil change receipts since new dome a the dealer. The only mod when I got it was EBC pads and rotors. 66k miles and he factory MTRs looked great.
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Unread 04-22-2011, 09:15 AM   #1054
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Quote:
Very clever. Let us know the results. Also if you will for others please post some links to the where you bought the equipment and prices. I can't say with certainty which is better, but I love the idea.

EDIT: I added this version to the front page under modification. Since the mod principles are the same but with a different lubing system, I thought I should add it. I may have to add an addition section on the front page for alternate ideas.
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Unread 04-22-2011, 10:21 AM   #1055
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So how does that oil cup work exactly? Just pour oil into it??
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Unread 04-22-2011, 01:00 PM   #1056
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Is the 2004 CPS gear compatible with the 2005-06 gear without modification? NO.

Can the 2004 CPS gear fit with the 2005-06 gear without drilling a new hole in the shaft? YES.

Please see the attached images.

First is the roll pin. The larger is 3/16 and fills the 2005-06 OPDA shaft hole.



Here is a side by side of the 2004 and the 2005-06 gear. Left is the 2005 (large hole).



With regards to all other specs they look the same.







The hole alignment relative to the tooth location is offset a little. This means if you were to pull the OPDA and use this gear it would not install exactly the way it was removed. I don't believe TDC or the sharpie would match exactly. The below pics show the 2004 gear drilled to 3/16. The 2004 gear is on the left.





To modify the old 2004 gear to fit the larger hole for the 2005-06 shaft you will have to drill out one side of the 2004 gear. Use a 3/16 drill bit. It would be best to have a vise and press. I didn't have any of that at the house so I used a steady hand instead.

Drill one side to 3/16. Once you have the hole drilled, place the gear on the shaft so the holes line up. From there you can insert the drill bit and drill the opposite hole. Without a press and vise the shaft hole may egg a little bit. The roll pin should handle a small imperfection in the hole. I ran the drill through and tapped in the roll pin with no issues.

I believe this is an easier method than an aftermarket gear and drilling a new hole through the existing shaft.
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Unread 04-22-2011, 02:00 PM   #1057
ChuckT6
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I'm concerned that the 2004 hole location relative to the gear tooth being 10 degrees or more off than the 2005 hole location could cause problems. Can someone explain what they are and how to correct for this difference? Obviously the cam sensor wheel will be off 10 degrees or more when the OPDA is reinstalled.
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Unread 04-22-2011, 02:24 PM   #1058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
So how does that oil cup work exactly? Just pour oil into it??
Yes, you answered your own question. They used to put those on all types of old machinery. You don't see them as often today.
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Unread 04-22-2011, 04:37 PM   #1059
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckT6 View Post
I'm concerned that the 2004 hole location relative to the gear tooth being 10 degrees or more off than the 2005 hole location could cause problems. Can someone explain what they are and how to correct for this difference? Obviously the cam sensor wheel will be off 10 degrees or more when the OPDA is reinstalled.
I may have misspoke in the earlier post. Just because it doesn't go back exactly doesn't mean it won't work. All that will happen is the housing will be a little off from the original position to keep the alignment between the sensor and the target wheel accurate.

For example if you had the OPDA set at TDC using the plastic key, when you reinstall it using the new gear the OPDA will still be at TDC, but the housing location relative to the engine block will be off the 10.

For the sharpie method, if you make a match mark to the housing/engine and you make a match mark to the housing/target wheel, when you reinstall the match mark for the housing/target wheel will still match, but the housing/engine mark will not.

I mentioned it in my first post so if people weren't paying attention during install it would look odd. Just remember to keep the target wheel and the sensor the same. All you have to do to account for the difference in the gear is move the housing to keep everything aligned.
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Unread 04-22-2011, 04:45 PM   #1060
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So with my '05, I should probably jump on the Rock Auto Camshaft Synchronizer for an '04 and steal the gear since my shaft is fine but my gear is worn. Correct?
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Unread 04-22-2011, 05:00 PM   #1061
Rubi4MyMrs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Very clever. Let us know the results. Also if you will for others please post some links to the where you bought the equipment and prices. I can't say with certainty which is better, but I love the idea.

EDIT: I added this version to the front page under modification. Since the mod principles are the same but with a different lubing system, I thought I should add it. I may have to add an addition section on the front page for alternate ideas.

Thanks, Willy. I appreciate the support. I only made 2 changes to your FOGMod. I used a 5/16-18 x 3/8” grub & tapped the other hole to 5/16-24 for the adapter to 1/8 pipe to fit the oil cup threads. I was a little hesitant to tap that hole to 1/8 pipe as it looked like the hole might be too big for the size of that area of the OPDA. That 11/32 bit looks really big! Looking at it now with the hole there, I think the 1/8 pipe might work. I don’t have an extra OPDA so I wanted to be conservative.

I gave the guys (4 of them) at the local industrial hardware store a real challenge. We finally came up with using a 1/8 compression to 1/8 pipe thread adapter to get what I needed. The threads on the 1/8 comp. fitting are 5/16-24. That end goes into the OPDA. It is not a taper thread so it won’t self-seal. For now, I have an O ring there until I see how this is going to work. I also drilled out the fitting some because the hole was small & this is only a gravity fed system.

The cost of the parts was $12. The oil cup w/1/8 pipe male threads, a 1/8 to 1/8 coupler, the 1/8 comp. to 1/8 pipe male thread adapter & an O-ring plus the grub. I didn't end up needing the nipple seen in the invoice photo below.

The cap on the oil cup is spring loaded. Opening the cap allows oil to be added. My main concern with this method is how much oil will be consumed. I guess it depends on how well the seal holds the oil. I didn’t want a bigger cup (they make them) because I wanted the oil level to stay below the top of the top bushing. The oil cup might be the hardest part to find. Some call them “GITS” cups. I got the parts at McFadden-Dale Industrial Hardware in Anaheim, Ca. They have others around the country. The Anaheim # is 714-630-6390.



Quote:
Originally Posted by TJJP77 View Post
^ I hate to say this, but the longer wear marks on the one side of your gear show the typical striation wear of a gear that's worn past the outer hardened layer - I'd suggest trying to get a better look at your camshaft gear - I'd be willing to bet it shows similar wear.
I agree. I also wonder about mating a new gear to a worn cam gear. If the wear isn’t great (deep) is it better to keep the mated surfaces together rather than changing one. Of course both new is ideal but certainly a lot costlier.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckT6 View Post
I'm concerned that the 2004 hole location relative to the gear tooth being 10 degrees or more off than the 2005 hole location could cause problems. Can someone explain what they are and how to correct for this difference? Obviously the cam sensor wheel will be off 10 degrees or more when the OPDA is reinstalled.

Willy, Good info on the ’04 gear. Is the height of the hole the same, meaning is the end play the same when the gear is installed?

As far as the position being different, that is a case for using the TDC & pinning the wheel procedure. I think that anytime the gear is replaced it is best to pin the wheel. That is why I pinned mine as well as marking it. On removal, I had no idea whether the gear needed replacing.

When the OPDA goes back in with the wheel pinned, the proper relationship to the CPS is maintained. The position of the OPDA to the engine may change but that is unimportant.

Since there are 13 teeth on the gear, & mine was re-drilled at 90o, I’m sure the OPDA had to be turned slightly on re-installation.

Willy, sorry, you added while I was typing. You are right, it's the wheel-to -housing position that matters. Pinning or marking. Maybe less confusing with the pin???
p64210138.jpg   p64210133.jpg   p64210131.jpg   p64210144.jpg   p64210145.jpg  

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Unread 04-22-2011, 05:10 PM   #1062
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The height of the hole is the same. The 2004 and 2005 looked to have the same up/down play.

Rubi, what type of oil do you plan to try?
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Unread 04-22-2011, 05:27 PM   #1063
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That oil cup is clever. Thank you for the effort. I did the fogmod but darn if I don't like the oil-cup idea. Has it leaked?
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Unread 04-22-2011, 05:44 PM   #1064
Baseplate
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I purchased an 2005 OPDA gear off my Chrysler dealer in Australia

PART #: KCDC0E051AB
DESCRIPTION: GEAR, OIL PUMP-05 TJ

I'll see if Bobby at Mopar-Wholesale has or can get these.
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Unread 04-22-2011, 05:55 PM   #1065
Baseplate
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Email sent to MW

Hi Bobby

As you probably have worked out, there are some issues with the Oil Pump Drive on 05 and 06 Jeep Wranglers (TJ).....the part is still faulty but we all know that.

There are two issues we are all having with the part:
1. The upper bushing on the drive assembly does not seem to get oiled adequately and it binds up, this impacts on issue two..
2. The drive gear on the bottom of the part meshes with the gear on the cam - this gear (on the cam and the OPDA) is wearing excessively.

One solution is for us to keep buying the complete assembly but another is for us to buy the OPDA gear as well and replace them frequently.

Is it possible for you guys to stock the gear please - I know you would sell plenty of them - I for one would order around 5 myself.

Here are the details of the part:
PART #: KCDC0E051AB
DESCRIPTION: GEAR, OIL PUMP-05 TJ

Thanks Alex.
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