2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 58 - JeepForum.com

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post #856 of 5452 Old 03-22-2011, 04:32 PM
BNLfan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Wolf View Post
Simply put - I am let down. Getting into my Jeep 2yrs ago, I was really expecting to not have an issue from the AMC 4.0 in the least bit, that it would chug along without missing a beat - heck that's the reputation.
My feelings exactly, except I bought mine 2 months ago.

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post #857 of 5452 Old 03-22-2011, 06:02 PM
TJJP77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Wolf View Post
Because of the pushrod design (vs SOHC) it makes a proper cam change require seperation of the head from the block.
I don't feel like retyping it here, but if you search the other threads I shared a method for swapping out the cam without pulling the head. You have to be willing to re-use the existing lifters though...personally I think more is made of this particular point/issue than necessary. I've installed new lifters on existing cams before and never had an issue. I'm just going to grease the heck out of the new cam and break it in properly and move forward with my life and my Jeep.

Chris
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post #858 of 5452 Old 03-22-2011, 06:46 PM
westx
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Originally Posted by BNLfan View Post
My feelings exactly, except I bought mine 2 months ago.
only had mine for 2 weeks, wish i had known about this, but man i love this jeep so far.
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post #859 of 5452 Old 03-22-2011, 07:08 PM
yellowismellow
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I called the dealership today and asked about this issue. They said not to worry about anything if nothing has happened yet. Should I have argued more? I refuse bringing my tj to the dealer for anything. However, I'm covered under the 7/70 powertrain. Could this replacement be covered? Im at 54k miles.

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post #860 of 5452 Old 03-22-2011, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowismellow View Post
They said not to worry about anything if nothing has happened yet.
LOL If the ship has not sunk we must be okay!

Truth is, most aren't gonna even look at it unless you had engine failure.

Pro-Active is the key word:

Definition of PROACTIVE

[1pro-] : relating to, caused by, or being interference between previous learning and the recall or performance of later learning <proactive inhibition of memory>

[2pro- + reactive] : acting in anticipation of future problems, needs, or changes
— pro·ac·tive·ly adverb
See proactive defined for English-language learners »
Examples of PROACTIVE

1. A survey was given out to customers so that the company could take proactive steps to improve their service.
2. The city is taking a proactive approach to fighting crime by hiring more police officers.

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post #861 of 5452 Old 03-22-2011, 07:23 PM
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I just pulled my unit after 3000 miles to check and see if any of the modifications that I did recently made any difference. My priority was to cut down on the friction and wear on the lower bushing, as that was where I was having problems with my OPDA. For those of you who are not familiar with the modification that I did, I cut a gap in the lower unit, and I drilled a hole to allow oil inside (see pic)




Here is a pic of the shaft. Hmmm....something tells me that I may have under estimated how much side load that shaft is actually under lol. There is still scoring going on in the lower bushing area.





Was this because oil is still not getting into the unit? Inspecting inside of the OPDA, it is really hard to tell if the oil was actually getting in there. I'm going to try one more thing before I move on to something else. I grabbed another brand new unit, and I added a twist to the modification. I machined out the flat spot, but I drilled out two holes instead of one. The holes are larger than the first mod, and the additional hole (lower one) actually clears the block. I measured the thickness of the block, and there is about 3/8ths of an inch of the OPDA that sticks out past the block. The cam gear has a straight shot at this exposed lower area and hole, so it is a sure thing that oil will get into that lower bushing.





I am also going to try a different shaft. I sent out some shafts to get treated with a Salt Bath Nitro Carburization process. The suface of the shaft is now hardened quite a bit over the stock spec. The machine shop tells me it's probably around Rockwell 45-55. The shaft is now jet black in color. Here's a pic:




I'll probably only need a couple of hundred miles to see if the Shaft hardening made any difference. I have a feeling that it won't. In the meantime, the machinist is making me a set of bronze bushings. I tried to get Oilite, but because of the messed up sizes on the shaft and OPDA, there are no off the shelf parts that you can just order-you would have to custom make them. I've thought about roller or ball bearings, but it's just too small in there. I'll probably end up running bronze bushings with the hardened shaft, along with the Fogmod.

For those of you who think I'm insane, doing all of this useless testing and spending all of this money, I'm not. I own a rather large building complex, and one of my tenants is a Machine Shop. My Machinist friend is doing all of this stuff for free. And by the way, all of this BS with the OPDA is driving him nuts too.
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post #862 of 5452 Old 03-22-2011, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJJP77 View Post
I don't feel like retyping it here, but if you search the other threads I shared a method for swapping out the cam without pulling the head. You have to be willing to re-use the existing lifters though...personally I think more is made of this particular point/issue than necessary. I've installed new lifters on existing cams before and never had an issue. I'm just going to grease the heck out of the new cam and break it in properly and move forward with my life and my Jeep.
That's why I said proper . However, I did not know about that on the AMC I6s before reading about that, very cool.

-Rick

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-1990 BMW 325i Convertible 5spd e30 - extensive overhaul in progress

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post #863 of 5452 Old 03-22-2011, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkki1230 View Post
For those of you who think I'm insane, doing all of this useless testing and spending all of this money, I'm not. I own a rather large building complex, and one of my tenants is a Machine Shop. My Machinist friend is doing all of this stuff for free. And by the way, all of this BS with the OPDA is driving him nuts too.
It is really fun to see all the crazy stuff you're trying. Keep it up!

Last edited by willydigger; 03-23-2011 at 05:22 AM. Reason: reduced quote
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post #864 of 5452 Old 03-22-2011, 10:25 PM
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tkki,

Yes, keep up the good work. You are on the right track with the hole facing the gears. They throw off a lot of oil. Also keep in mind that the side loading on the bottom bushing is from the shaft being pushed away from the cam as the gears mesh. The rotational resistance causes the gears to try to separate.

The problem with using bearings is, as you suggest, the odd sizes of the shaft & bushing OD. They are like 17/32” & 49/64”. Crazy! No bearings made that size. Today I researched various bushings. You are right that none come in those sizes but some can be gotten in basically unfinished stock to be machined to fit. I think that includes oilite as well. There are certain ways to machine them so as not to lose their oil retaining/releasing properties. There is also a product called Cermet M* that might be good. I think that is at oiles.com. Determining the proper clearance is an important issue. Maybe your machinist will have info on that.

I also found a reference to “Everlube” that is some kind of a dry coating. I think it would be applied to the shaft to prevent galling. This is what I found on a post somewhere: “You can greatly reduce the chances of galling with a mating piece if you coat them with a product called Everlube. It is an extremely thin coating that you apply with a brush or spray and bake for awhile. We use to use it regularly on mating fitting…”

* Some of Cermet M info that I found: ”Small inside diameter, suitable for high speed operation Cermet M is oilless bearing material, based on metal sinter alloy with solid lubricants dispersed. Major element of solid lubricants is molybdenum disulfide. The number of oil-supplying can be reduced remarkably compared with gunmetal bearings.”

Hope this helps, Good luck. Keep us posted.
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post #865 of 5452 Old 03-24-2011, 11:38 AM
chutta
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Took mine apart for another inspection today, gear getting a little worse.
What's the bottom line on replacing just the gear? Do I in fact have to drill it out for fitment on the shaft and shim the thrust washer too?

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post #866 of 5452 Old 03-24-2011, 06:14 PM
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On p 48 #714 there is a reference to Hesco. I think they have a bronze gear for our application. (Product: Bronze Distributor Gear #HES29425 Price: $89.95 Description: Bronze replacement gear for 4cyl. and 6 cyl. Jeep distributors.) I’m not sure how long a bronze gear will last for daily use but it is something to try if no other gear is compatible.

There is a good article on this & some oil info as well at http://www.classicinlines.com/DizzyGear.asp that was referenced earlier, but worth reviewing for those joining late.
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post #867 of 5452 Old 03-24-2011, 06:29 PM
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The lady I've been dealing with from Jeep called me, and my dealer, again today. She left me a message letting me know she's still working on finding me a new OPDA.....I laughed. She called the dealer and asked him if he had found one......he laughed. At least she's trying.
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post #868 of 5452 Old 03-25-2011, 02:51 PM
anderson5290
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F*** yes the dealership just recieved my replacment opda and will be installing it today so i get my jeep back today after 2 months.
I guess calling every day for 2 months and giving them S*** is what it takes.
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post #869 of 5452 Old 03-25-2011, 03:43 PM
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Good news anderson 5290. Please check and determine if it's a replacement (improvement over stock) or simply a stock replacement and let us know.
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post #870 of 5452 Old 03-25-2011, 04:23 PM
matteo92065
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I just bought my 2005 Rubicon two weeks ago, and now I read this thread!
This issue is bothering me. I want to fix this poor design.

I've bought all the stuff to run an oil line from the valve cover to the OPDA. I'm thinking that all I need is just a little oil to run down from the top bearing to the lower bearing on the OPDA.

This is how I plan to do it;
First, drill and tap valve cover (use a bulkhead fitting or weld bung if necessary) as close to the lowest point (where it looks like oil might pool). Then I'm going to connect some clear tubing to it and run the engine. I expect to see some oil in the tube after a short period. I might put the other end of the tube in a jar to see how much oil flows over a given distance or time period.
Next I'll drill and tap the OPDA, right where the factory grease port is. I'll connect the other end of the oil tube to this port. Then after driving for a while, I'll reinspect and hopefully the oil will be making its way back down to the engine. If it looks like that there is too much oil flowing into the OPDA, I can either cut down on the flow through the tube, or I can modify the shaft and/or bearings to let more oil pass by the sleeve bearings. If I'm not getting enough oil through the tube, I can move or modify where I am picking up the oil.

Any thoughts? Problems?
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