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Unread 03-19-2011, 08:28 PM   #826
TJJP77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicagoRod View Post
So, if I replace the gear, I should be OK.
Unfortunately no - I replaced a gear with a similar wear pattern at 9,300 miles with a new gear, and the new gear looks almost as bad with only 3,000 miles on it!

Once the gear on the cam is damaged, it will start a wear pattern on a new OPDA gear almost immediately.

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Unread 03-19-2011, 08:35 PM   #827
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If it spins fine, why is my gear worn?

The wear doesn't' look that bad in person but then again I'm not sure what a properly worn/not worn gear should look like. I mean, it doesn't seem like any of the teeth are about to break off due to wear.

When I replace the gear, I'll see what the shaft looks like. I'm still more worried about the 0016 code.
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Unread 03-19-2011, 08:48 PM   #828
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So, if I replace the gear, I should be OK. I'm more worried about the engine code of 0016. I stopped by an O'Reiley's and borrowed a code reader. The 0016 says it's a CPS. I cleared them both and the 0016 came back in 2 minutes.

What did I do wrong? The only thing that I changed was the oil pump notch to get it all to line up again. All my marks are back on. If I was off a gear tooth it wouldn't run, right?
Yours does look pretty worn to me. But my original failed at 20K and I have no clue what it looked like since it was done under warranty (and yes, took the cam, lifters, and oil pump with it. You can see what my current one looks like with 15K on it earlier in this thread. I will guarantee you have upper bearing wear/heat marks, just the nature of the beast.

Now when I put mine back in after the Fog-mod (thanks again willydigger!) I was sure I had it back exactly where it went. Got 2 min. down the road and got CEL P0016. I simply loosened the hold down bolt again, very slightly rotated it clockwise tightened the bolt. Cleared the code and have put 100 miles on it since that and changing to the Mobil 1 TDT oil. No codes, and runs fine!!

Also I didn't have to align the oil pump, mine slid right back in the way it came out .
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Unread 03-19-2011, 08:54 PM   #829
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Now when I put mine back in after the Fog-mod (thanks again willydigger!) I was sure I had it back exactly where it went. Got 2 min. down the road and got CEL P0016. I simply loosened the hold down bolt again, very slightly rotated it clockwise tightened the bolt. Cleared the code and have put 100 miles on it since that and changing to the Mobil 1 TDT oil. No codes, and runs fine!!
That's exactly what I wanted to hear because that was the ONLY variable I had. I marked everything and "kind of" lost the mark on the engine block but had a really good idea where it was before, I didn't think it would be enough to matter. I'm talking mm's here.
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Unread 03-19-2011, 09:02 PM   #830
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That's exactly what I wanted to hear because that was the ONLY variable I had. I marked everything and "kind of" lost the mark on the engine block but had a really good idea where it was before, I didn't think it would be enough to matter. I'm talking mm's here.
Yep, I even went as far as taking pictures before I removed it and making several reference measurements.......what good that did I barely moved it, but what ever amount it was worked for me. Good Luck.
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Unread 03-20-2011, 08:32 AM   #831
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Here are couple observations. A mis-alignment is easily fixable. Even with the TDC method there are reports of codes. Like reported, if you have trouble loosen the housing and tweek it. It should not prevent people from pulling the OPDA.
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Unread 03-20-2011, 02:11 PM   #832
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So, now that I know I might have a problem. How do I find my engine date code? To date I've had no strange sounds either from the engine or trans. Other than the noisey throw out bushing.2005 LJ with the 6 spd.
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Unread 03-20-2011, 02:15 PM   #833
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So, now that I know I might have a problem. How do I find my engine date code? To date I've had no strange sounds either from the engine or trans. Other than the noisey throw out bushing.2005 LJ with the 6 spd.
The build date has no value. You have the OPDA that is defective being a 2005. Pull it and post pics. I hate spreading panic, but I don't think anyone who had a catastrophic had any warning. Not having a sound may mean you still have time to fix the one you have.

To answer your question there is a sticker in the driver door jam.
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Unread 03-20-2011, 02:47 PM   #834
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Ok. No sticker. Looks like this just went to the top of the to-do list. I'll post my findings, mileage ect.
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Unread 03-20-2011, 07:22 PM   #835
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I’m new to this site put have read most of the previous posts in this thread. I agree that the FOGMod is the best so far but wonder if it can be improved further. Oil is preferred since it worked for previous designs. Using grease for this application is not ideal (factory or FOGMod). Grease is typically used for rolling (wheel bearings) or limited motion (suspension components) applications where there is somewhat limited area of contact &/or motion. The research into various greases is good but this bushing is not subjected to high pressures. The revolving surface is constantly wiping the grease away. If after the FOGMod there is still discoloration the heat causing it may be breaking down even the best grease. What is the temp. at the bushing to discolor the shaft? I see the 33MS is rated to 149 C. Is that enough? Is there a difference between high temp & high pressure (EP) greases? A method of constant replenishment would be preferred (oiling). With that said, we have to work with what we have & the best possible grease may be all we can hope for given the less than ideal situation we have.

Has anyone tried removing the seal? I know Lope did but he also changed the shaft. The high grooving may have offset the seal removal’s possible benefits. Also, what about a shorter bushing? Look at the ’04 bushing. That extra surface area only adds friction. It’s not as if there is any great side loading on the shaft. Does the bushing really need to extend above the housing? Does the shaft need to bottom on the bushing or will the oil pump serve the same function?

Does anyone know the dia. of the shaft & also the OD of the bushing? Maybe a needle bearing or small roller bearing could replace the top bushing. That would reduce the friction & make grease a more viable option. Worst case a bronze or oilite bushing. If anyone knows the sizes, ID, OD, & length, PM me & I will try to source a bearing.
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Unread 03-20-2011, 09:46 PM   #836
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Has anyone tried removing the seal?
Possible problem would then be no top seal. I agree oil is better than grease.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Also, what about a shorter bushing? Look at the í04 bushing. That extra surface area only adds friction. Itís not as if there is any great side loading on the shaft. Does the bushing really need to extend above the housing? Does the shaft need to bottom on the bushing or will the oil pump serve the same function?
True about the shorter bushing offering less resistance, but the spinning mass of the much larger '05-'06 trigger wheel may demand a longer bushing. The shaft does bottom on the bushing. There is a spacer between the two.


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Maybe a needle bearing or small roller bearing could replace the top bushing. That would reduce the friction & make grease a more viable option.
This sounds promising as far as a fix for the shaft.
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Unread 03-21-2011, 01:18 PM   #837
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Here are couple observations. A mis-alignment is easily fixable. Even with the TDC method there are reports of codes. Like reported, if you have trouble loosen the housing and tweek it. It should not prevent people from pulling the OPDA.
I tweaked it a few times yesterday and I couldn't get the light to go off at idle. I went to remove the cover and stripped one of the screw heads that I had off less than 24 hours before. I twisted it back, just from memory, and ran some errands. The check engine light went away after it was parked for 3 hours.

I'll deal with the stripped torx when I get a new drive gear. Without me reading this whole thread, where is the best place to buy a gear again?
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Unread 03-21-2011, 02:42 PM   #838
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I know I’m jumping into this late but I have an early ’05 that has had the OPDA gear replaced. Now at 24,000 miles, so far, so good but we’ll see. Compatibility between the drive & driven gears is critical. I’ve read in various threads & posts about sourcing gears from various places. Be carful. Obviously excessive drag seems to be the cause of excessive wear. Without eliminating this drag, no solution will be a permanent fix. I think the FOGMod is the best so far. A roller bearing instead of a top bushing would be better. Doable, but not as simple (inexpensive) as the FOGMod unless there is an off the shelf bearing that will replace the bushing. Anyone have the bushing dimensions?

Back around page 49 I was reading about reducing the mass of the target wheel. I can assure you that the torque required to turn the oil pump is much greater than the target wheel. Reducing the wheel’s mass will have little net reduction in the load on the gear since most is from the pump. A better procedure might be to see if the wheel is well balanced. The notches are not symmetrical & even though the RPMs aren’t that high (1/2 engine speed) maybe there is enough imbalance to cause excessive loading on the bushing. Not likely, but just a thought.

Also around P.50 there was talk about bronze gears, like from Hesco. I have some experience with bronze distributor/oil pump drive gears. They are to protect the cam gear mostly in racing applications since most use high volume oil pumps (also like the Hesco) which require more torque to turn than standard pumps & some use a Magneto which really takes a lot of torque. They are expected to be replaced periodically. Not necessarily a good solution for street applications. Besides, it still does not address the root problem of excessive drag from the top bushing area. If the OPDA shaft seizes up there is no gear that will save you.

Also on P. 50 Heath asks about using a crankshaft signal. The reason you can’t use the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CRPS) rather than the Cam Position Sensor (CPS) is simple. The CRPS sends the signal to fire the sparkplugs; the CPS sends the signal to open the fuel injectors. When the CRPS tells the ECU that the engine is at TDC #1 & #6 it does not matter if the compression is 1 or 6 because one coil fires both plugs. The ECU does need to know which injector to open & the CPS is what determines whether the compression stroke is 1 or 6. Same for the other 2 TDC events. We need a CPS, just one that does not tear the engine up.
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Unread 03-21-2011, 03:16 PM   #839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
...I’ve read in various threads & posts about sourcing gears from various places. Be carful. Obviously excessive drag seems to be the cause of excessive wear. Without eliminating this drag, no solution will be a permanent fix. I think the FOGMod is the best so far. A roller bearing instead of a top bushing would be better. Doable, but not as simple (inexpensive) as the FOGMod unless there is an off the shelf bearing that will replace the bushing. Anyone have the bushing dimensions?

Back around page 49 I was reading about reducing the mass of the target wheel. I can assure you that the torque required to turn the oil pump is much greater than the target wheel. Reducing the wheel’s mass will have little net reduction in the load on the gear since most is from the pump. A better procedure might be to see if the wheel is well balanced. The notches are not symmetrical & even though the RPMs aren’t that high (1/2 engine speed) maybe there is enough imbalance to cause excessive loading on the bushing. Not likely, but just a thought.

Also around P.50 there was talk about bronze gears, like from Hesco. I have some experience with bronze distributor/oil pump drive gears. They are to protect the cam gear mostly in racing applications since most use high volume oil pumps (also like the Hesco) which require more torque to turn than standard pumps & some use a Magneto which really takes a lot of torque. They are expected to be replaced periodically. Not necessarily a good solution for street applications. Besides, it still does not address the root problem of excessive drag from the top bushing area. If the OPDA shaft seizes up there is no gear that will save you...
Glad to have you on board. You seem very knowledgeable. I have an OPDA (well used) at the house. I'll see what I can do about getting some "ballpark" measurements. I should be able to get OD and a close ID. I'll have to guess on the length of the bushing. Maybe lopes or tkki have that somewhere.
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Unread 03-21-2011, 04:03 PM   #840
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Thanks, Willy. The ID needs to be the shaft dia. In your 1st post you had a pic of someone holding the old & new bushings. Was that from tkki? If so, tkki, any info?
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