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Unread 01-05-2011, 12:44 AM   #61
Conrad85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverhorn View Post
I've burned the phone lines for three days now and cannot find the OPDA anywhere. Two dealerships have one each but will not sell. Mopar-wholesale.com says there are 182 on back order nationwide and Chrysler has given them no expected date of arrival.
What are our chances of getting these now that they're on backorder? Didn't the company that made them go out of business?

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Unread 01-05-2011, 10:32 AM   #62
silverhorn
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I had not tried dodge-wholesale.com but I just did and got the message that the part requested is not available in quantity needed... "1".

I don't recall who told me this but during my phone expedition one parts manager said, "this is what happens when a company files bankruptcy and suppliers don't get paid what they are owed".
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Unread 01-05-2011, 10:49 AM   #63
TJXTWO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverhorn View Post
I've burned the phone lines for three days now and cannot find the OPDA anywhere. Two dealerships have one each but will not sell. Mopar-wholesale.com says there are 182 on back order nationwide and Chrysler has given them no expected date of arrival.

Truly amazing that I cannot find a part for a 4 year old vehicle. When I spoke to Chrysler and suggested the reason for the shortage was a nationwide failure of the part on '05 and '06 Wranglers they said "there is no proof of that", and "you can't believe everything you read on the internet". Very helpful customer service.

I've been handed off to the expediting team. They said I should expect a callback in 4-5 days... how's that for expediting?
like I said in another post: Chrysler is by far the worst car company I have dealt with. Their customer service is a joke.
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Unread 01-05-2011, 12:57 PM   #64
Conrad85
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I called mopar-wholesale.com and they told me the ETA is Feb 7th.
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Unread 01-08-2011, 02:13 PM   #65
liljpy
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I've been following the OPDA/CPS threads for several weeks and found after pulling my own CPS that my 2006 rubicon (32k miles) also suffers from this issue. I came up with a plan given all the research everyone else (thanks!) has done and here it is:

1. Since the CPS shaft is OK I don't want to order a new one. Since I don't want to risk damaging a part I can't easily replace, I'll avoid the mod for now. I'll wet sand the old shaft, grease it with the Shell grease and order a new Crown automotive gear from 4wd (mentioned in previous posts).
2. I'll replace the gear, then inspect the shaft since it's been in for 100 miles to see how well the grease is working. After I'm satisfied I'll relube the shaft and bearings.
3. I'll pull the CPS every oil change and inspect/relube it.

Well I ran into a snag today with step 2 when I went to put on the new gear. It doesn't fit. The pin hole is slightly off from the stock pin hole. Plus, the pin hole doesn't go completely through the new gear. The size and shape of the gear and teeth seem to be identical, but there are a few differences.

Below is a side by side comparison. Note first that the pin holes are off. The difference in pin location is way more than the amount of play between the old gear and the thrust washer. Put another way, there's no way that new gear will fit without modification.



Here's another pic, notice the new gear doesn't have a second hole for the pin to go through...



Below is a pic with the gear pushed up as far as possible to show how little play there is. There's no way the new gear will go far enough up to allow the pin to go in.


Below is a bottom comparison. The picture isn't that great, but you can get a good look at the tooth profile. Note two things here. First, the tips of the teeth on the new gear are thicker than the tips on the old gear. At first I thought maybe the old gear was a bit worn, but it doesn't appear so. I came to that conclusion because the backside of the teeth on the old gear don't make contact with the cam gear and thus, shouldn't be worn. The second thing to note here is that the lip is more rounded over on the inside edge. That's probably not a big deal, but still worth pointing out.



Below is a top comparison. Again, the flash washes things out a bit, but provides us with a good look at the profile.



I also noticed that the new gear fits much, much tighter on the shaft. I got it on about 1/4 of the way and knew if I went further I wouldn't be able to easily pull it off. In fact, I had to heat it with a blow torch to take it off when it was just 1/4 of the way on. This is troubling to say the least!

So I thought I'd take some time and document my findings for everyone to learn from. I'm not sure what I'll do next. I considered drilling a new hole, but I don't have a drill press which I would consider necessary. Plus, I'll have to heat the gear and basically press it on, so if it doesn't work then I'll have to cut it off.

What do you guys think? I know that gear needs replaced, but feel like my only option is to buy the whole CPS which seems unavailable for the most part.

Has anyone else replaced only the gear? Everything else is fine with the CPS
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Unread 01-09-2011, 11:21 AM   #66
TJXTWO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conrad85 View Post
I called mopar-wholesale.com and they told me the ETA is Feb 7th.
I ordered mine two days ago and the ETA was Feb 14th. I think they have been getting calls, because the guy new the part just by the number I gave him before he even looked it up.
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Unread 01-09-2011, 04:17 PM   #67
bonza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljpy View Post
I've been following the OPDA/CPS threads for several weeks and found after pulling my own CPS that my 2006 rubicon (32k miles) also suffers from this issue. I came up with a plan given all the research everyone else (thanks!) has done and here it is:

1. Since the CPS shaft is OK I don't want to order a new one. Since I don't want to risk damaging a part I can't easily replace, I'll avoid the mod for now. I'll wet sand the old shaft, grease it with the Shell grease and order a new Crown automotive gear from 4wd (mentioned in previous posts).
2. I'll replace the gear, then inspect the shaft since it's been in for 100 miles to see how well the grease is working. After I'm satisfied I'll relube the shaft and bearings.
3. I'll pull the CPS every oil change and inspect/relube it.

Well I ran into a snag today with step 2 when I went to put on the new gear. It doesn't fit. The pin hole is slightly off from the stock pin hole. Plus, the pin hole doesn't go completely through the new gear. The size and shape of the gear and teeth seem to be identical, but there are a few differences.

Below is a side by side comparison. Note first that the pin holes are off. The difference in pin location is way more than the amount of play between the old gear and the thrust washer. Put another way, there's no way that new gear will fit without modification.



Here's another pic, notice the new gear doesn't have a second hole for the pin to go through...



Below is a pic with the gear pushed up as far as possible to show how little play there is. There's no way the new gear will go far enough up to allow the pin to go in.


Below is a bottom comparison. The picture isn't that great, but you can get a good look at the tooth profile. Note two things here. First, the tips of the teeth on the new gear are thicker than the tips on the old gear. At first I thought maybe the old gear was a bit worn, but it doesn't appear so. I came to that conclusion because the backside of the teeth on the old gear don't make contact with the cam gear and thus, shouldn't be worn. The second thing to note here is that the lip is more rounded over on the inside edge. That's probably not a big deal, but still worth pointing out.



Below is a top comparison. Again, the flash washes things out a bit, but provides us with a good look at the profile.



I also noticed that the new gear fits much, much tighter on the shaft. I got it on about 1/4 of the way and knew if I went further I wouldn't be able to easily pull it off. In fact, I had to heat it with a blow torch to take it off when it was just 1/4 of the way on. This is troubling to say the least!

So I thought I'd take some time and document my findings for everyone to learn from. I'm not sure what I'll do next. I considered drilling a new hole, but I don't have a drill press which I would consider necessary. Plus, I'll have to heat the gear and basically press it on, so if it doesn't work then I'll have to cut it off.

What do you guys think? I know that gear needs replaced, but feel like my only option is to buy the whole CPS which seems unavailable for the most part.

Has anyone else replaced only the gear? Everything else is fine with the CPS
Polish the pinion bore using a Dremel and emery until it becomes a sliding fit on the shaft. You will find it is only tight by about a thou, 0.001”

The new pinion is meant to have one hole only so you can align with the shaft to drill the second hole diagonally from it. Align the one hole in the pinion up with the hole in the OPDA shaft and drill and ream thru the pinion with a bench press drill or a pistol dril if you are very careful.

You will find that the space is greater between the OPDA and the thrust washer on the new pinion. Just use another washer to take up this space until you have the same clearance as the original gear. About 0.010” from memory. Check first with feeler gauges. The new pinion being higher or lower on the shaft doesn’t affect the mesh with the camshaft gear as the centre lines are still the same, but the helix of the pinion would have rotated the OPDA target wheel slightly so you will have to set up the unit as per previous posts, ie #1 cylinder on TDC, target wheel hole aligned with housing etc, and all that jazz

Hope that helps
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Unread 01-12-2011, 09:02 PM   #68
luskie
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What is the part # for the crown replacement gear, and where can I get one asap.
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Unread 01-13-2011, 12:31 AM   #69
Conrad85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luskie View Post
What is the part # for the crown replacement gear, and where can I get one asap.
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=11465

I think you'll have to redrill the shaft for the new gear
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Unread 01-13-2011, 10:57 AM   #70
liljpy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonza View Post
Polish the pinion bore using a Dremel and emery until it becomes a sliding fit on the shaft. You will find it is only tight by about a thou, 0.001”

The new pinion is meant to have one hole only so you can align with the shaft to drill the second hole diagonally from it. Align the one hole in the pinion up with the hole in the OPDA shaft and drill and ream thru the pinion with a bench press drill or a pistol dril if you are very careful.

You will find that the space is greater between the OPDA and the thrust washer on the new pinion. Just use another washer to take up this space until you have the same clearance as the original gear. About 0.010” from memory. Check first with feeler gauges. The new pinion being higher or lower on the shaft doesn’t affect the mesh with the camshaft gear as the centre lines are still the same, but the helix of the pinion would have rotated the OPDA target wheel slightly so you will have to set up the unit as per previous posts, ie #1 cylinder on TDC, target wheel hole aligned with housing etc, and all that jazz

Hope that helps

Awesome advice, thanks a ton!! I realized that I was looking at the gear upside down when I said it wouldn't fit. It'll actually have a larger gap than the factory gear, thanks for setting me straight.

I have been thinking about honing the inside of the gear by wrapping emery cloth on a wooden dowel and rotating the gear until proper clearance is obtained. I don't have any way to drill a precision hole, so i need to find someone with a drill press, buy one, or take it to a machine shop. I considered having a machine shop drill a new hole offset 90 degrees from the existing hole, but match the existing gear's hole location. Though, from what you're saying it's not necessary. What type of shim do you recommend to close the gap? Do you recommend a standard low grade steel washer, a grade 8 washer, or a special metal shim (i'm thinking motorcycle valve job shims)? Where would I get your recommended shim?

How would this plan suffice for aligning the new gear:

I would assume if i mark the OPDA wheel play (2 reference lines to mark the play) on the housing then I can simply rotate the housing slightly until it matches one of the marks. Theoretically there will be less play since the new gear will have a tighter mesh with the cam than the old gear. Since the back side of the old gear isn't worn then i can rotate the wheel forward to take out the play and match that reference mark (as opposed to matching the drag mark which would include gear wear).

Or, i guess can just to all the TDC stuff you mentioned. Does anyone know what notches in the OPDA wheel align with the magnet on TDC of the compression stroke? If i can avoid pulling a plug then that would be easiest. Otherwise i need 2 people...

Thanks again, this has all been great info. Hopefully folks will buy a $30 gear instead of the entire OPDA if their shaft is salvageable. It seems that referencing a proper shim is the last step in having this option documented. FYI it took about 6 business days for the new gear to come.
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Unread 01-15-2011, 01:29 PM   #71
jeep201
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great info

I have the same problem. 06' 84,000 miles. I pulled the odpa, shaft was heat scored, but cleaned up. My gear was fine. My question is can I just clean everything up, do the mod and keep an eye on it, or do I have to replace the whole unit?
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Unread 01-15-2011, 02:48 PM   #72
ChaseB
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An update for those interested : dodge-wholesale.com does not have the OPDA in stock. I received and email shortly after placing my order that expected ETA was February 2nd. I don't believe this one bit. Currently my Jeep is sitting at a dealership waiting to be diagnosed. What the hell are we supposed to do when the part we need to fix our junk isn't even available? This is an outrage to say the least. Shame on me for buying a 2005 lol, but I really couldn't pass on the cleanest Jeep I had come across. What's really sad is that Chrysler is denying there is a problem and offering no solution to it's customers whatsoever.
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Unread 01-15-2011, 05:35 PM   #73
TJXTWO
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Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
An update for those interested : dodge-wholesale.com does not have the OPDA in stock. I received and email shortly after placing my order that expected ETA was February 2nd. I don't believe this one bit. Currently my Jeep is sitting at a dealership waiting to be diagnosed. What the hell are we supposed to do when the part we need to fix our junk isn't even available? This is an outrage to say the least. Shame on me for buying a 2005 lol, but I really couldn't pass on the cleanest Jeep I had come across. What's really sad is that Chrysler is denying there is a problem and offering no solution to it's customers whatsoever.
Yeah, they told me the 14th but I will believe it when I see it. I have though about ordering a couple more just to have on hand. I only have 14k on it now, and it's not a DD so it will be around for a while.
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Unread 01-15-2011, 06:16 PM   #74
ChaseB
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Originally Posted by TJXTWO View Post
Yeah, they told me the 14th but I will believe it when I see it. I have though about ordering a couple more just to have on hand. I only have 14k on it now, and it's not a DD so it will be around for a while.
I've been trying to call and all I get is some weird guy on voicemail. I've left numerous messages. My Jeep is a daily driver and I'd like to keep it a very long time. Anyone have any information regarding "LDI"? If they went out of business I would highly doubt they will be producing anymore units. I suppose I'll have to modify my existing unit if all else fails.
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Unread 01-15-2011, 09:00 PM   #75
jeep201
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I was @ the dealer today, they told me they have not had any of these come up here in kfalls, Or. Allthough he looked up the odpa, & told me that there was 200 on back order. I think I caught mine in time so I'm doing the mod, I will update with results....
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