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Unread 02-09-2014, 05:27 PM   #4846
OleBlue73
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffjeep1
I've danced this dance for a while. Somewhere towards the front of this thread, you'll find some of my posts. I did a Fogmod on a new unit, and kept it greased with aeroshell 33MS. Used Mobil 1. 0W-40 ( due to the high Zinc ) with 1/2 bottle of ZDDP along with a Donaldson P550299 filter. This one is in the photo after 34,000 miles of use
I did a stripperguy kit, but never installed it.
I just installed a Dorman, with the original Jeep sensor. The new sensor supplied with the Dorman was all scratched on the end, right out of the box.
Got tired of pulling the ODPA every 4k miles, especially now I have no garage or carport. When it was 4F last week, I heard a slight squawk. Knew it was time for grease or the Dorman.
The photos show very little wear, much less than the original at 21K miles. Look closely, there is faint wear on the gear, but I do not think very bad for 34k on this unit
I'm trying to find specific instructions to change the oe sensor over to the Dorman unit. I've seen it but can't locate it now. Where to look?

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Unread 02-09-2014, 05:56 PM   #4847
06philaTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OleBlue73 View Post
I'm trying to find specific instructions to change the oe sensor over to the Dorman unit. I've seen it but can't locate it now. Where to look?
This is from page 316 from another user. I followed what it said below and if you read on page 322, I posted a reply about when I changed my OPDA recently with some tips as well. Here's the info:

All said and done, the removal/ install is easy.

Removal:
-Put it in neutral and block tires
-remove opda dust cover/cap
-turn main shaft clockwise (3/4" socket) until holes in opda line up (that is TDC)
-remove cps from side (dont unplug it)
-remove opda retainer clip screw
-lift opda out, inspect for wear / replacement etc.

Install:
-inspect new unit for any issues - compare to old unit
-line up oil pump key hole (what the bottom of the opda fits into) with a screw driver (because the oil pump can move and not cause issue) to line up opda where you want it similar/close to the original unit's position (doesn't matter)
-re install new opda (with the plastic alignment pin still in the alignment holes) with the new gasket on in place
-put the opda retainer clip and screw back in place tighten
-put the cps back in place and tighten
-remove the alignment pin from the bottom of the opda
-put the opda dust cover/ cap back on

As long as the new opda holes were pinned in to alignment (timed for tdc) upon installment and the unit fits or seats down in the oil pump key hole properly- you're golden.
Go ahead and start it.

The hardest thing is the opda retainer and screw.
It's hard to see and reach.

Ps- my opda came with gasket.

And the oil pump key will fit probably within a couple tries of moving the oil pump keyhole around with a screw driver.
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Unread 02-09-2014, 06:12 PM   #4848
OleBlue73
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I hope to do this when the weather warms this week.
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Unread 02-10-2014, 01:30 AM   #4849
Rubi4MyMrs
Tks 4 the upgrade Blaine
 
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For all those wondering what happens when you replace the OPDA & have the new gear running against the old, worn cam gear here is some input.

A little history for those who have not been following this since the beginning. I have an early ’05 that was within the TSB that replaced a “defective” OPDA gear. I started getting the “laughing monkey” in April 2011 at just under 25,000 miles. I had found this thread a few months before that so knew what needed to be done. Besides a dry & scored shaft my previously replaced gear now had excessive & very uneven wear (second photo below). At that time there were over 350 OPDAs on national back order so simply replacing it was not an option. I cleaned up the shaft (first photo) to remove the transferred metal & lightly honed the top bushing to smooth it out. I then installed an oil cup to lube the top bushing & put it back in. I sourced a new Crown gear from 4 Wheel Parts ($23) for the early distributors & made the simple modifications necessary to fit it to the OPDA shaft & installed it 1600 miles later (originally the gear was on back order so I ran the old one until it arrived). The conventional wisdom seemed to be that the gear would not last long since the cam gear had to be in bad shape & that it would be better to keep the old, worn gear than to put a new one on without replacing the cam.

I’ve had the OPDA out each oil change since & now have 8,700 miles on the “rebuilt” OPDA & 7,100 miles on the gear. Here is the Crown gear today (third photo). The shaft & top bushing are unchanged. Not the miles jeffjeep has but similar results as far as gear wear goes. I think it is holding up very well & have no plans to replace it.
p2040344.jpg

p2040372.jpg

p2090160.jpg

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Unread 02-11-2014, 11:54 AM   #4850
ws6air
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Hey guys, just wanted to say I got the new Doorman unit and used the Doorman gasket which was not that thick, and put the Distro in and it ran fine, no laughing monkey, but , now I have this weird Fast clicking noise on start ups, and only last for about 4-5 seconds. Then after that, it never does it again all day until it has sat overnight. Have any of you had this problem with this Distro (Doorman) Before I replaced it , it never made this noise. I also changed the Gasket to a thicker gasket, as that small one from Doorman started leaking. I've been working on cars for a awhile too, never heard this noise before. I'll try to make a video today and post it....... but have any of you heard this before and know what it is? The Doorman seams to be fine, just has that weird noise at start up and after that, runs great all day, no engine lights, etc..... Thanks guys

marc
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Unread 02-11-2014, 12:52 PM   #4851
Ljcrawler05
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Got a 5% off code from rockauto if anybody is wanting to save a little money

2005979617781380
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Unread 02-17-2014, 08:40 PM   #4852
OleBlue73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OleBlue73
I hope to do this when the weather warms this week.
I did mine this evening. Had some wear on the OPDA gear but not excessive. I swapped the original sensor over so hopefully I won't have issues. Hardest part was the reinstall of the hold down plate.
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Unread 02-17-2014, 09:13 PM   #4853
Testykalz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OleBlue73 View Post
Hardest part was the reinstall of the hold down plate.

Couldn't agree more! I will also say that gasket includes with the Dorman sucks!
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Unread 02-17-2014, 09:46 PM   #4854
BorderTJ
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Hey guys, does the sensor/connector need to point to the 4 o'clock position? If I wanted to turn it just a bit to clear some stuff, how would I do it? I saw a YouTube video that said it doesn't matter which way the sensor/connector points as long as the target wheel stays in the same spot when it's turned.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

Also, I saw that the target wheel moves as you pull the OPDA up and out. How do you install it with that holding pin if the wheel wants to spin?

Excuse my ignorance, I haven't taken mine out to play with it. Yet.
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Unread 02-17-2014, 09:58 PM   #4855
OleBlue73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Testykalz

Couldn't agree more! I will also say that gasket includes with the Dorman sucks!
That gasket does. I left my original one in place.

After replacement, I notice if I let the jeep set for 30 min or so, and I start it, it takes a longer crank before starting. After that initial long start, the next starts are normal (turning off then back on, off, on, etc). Maybe I need to loosen the hold down and bump the OPDA a little to fine tune. It will be interesting to see how it starts completely cold tomorrow morning.
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Unread 02-18-2014, 07:24 AM   #4856
Bigbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BorderTJ View Post
Hey guys, does the sensor/connector need to point to the 4 o'clock position? If I wanted to turn it just a bit to clear some stuff, how would I do it? I saw a YouTube video that said it doesn't matter which way the sensor/connector points as long as the target wheel stays in the same spot when it's turned.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

Also, I saw that the target wheel moves as you pull the OPDA up and out. How do you install it with that holding pin if the wheel wants to spin?

Excuse my ignorance, I haven't taken mine out to play with it. Yet.
Like i said in the video, you can clock the OPDA in any position you want just as long as the crank dampener TDC mark and the OPDA holes are lined up.

And yes the gear will turn as you pull it out or put it in. I never use the holding pin while installing it.
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Unread 02-18-2014, 07:28 AM   #4857
BorderTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob
Like i said in the video, you can clock the OPDA in any position you want just as long as the crank dampener TDC mark and the OPDA holes are lined up. And yes the gear will turn as you pull it out or put it in. I never use the holding pin while installing it.
Got it! Thanks for clarifying and glad to see you're a member on here.
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Unread 02-18-2014, 09:07 AM   #4858
BorderTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob
Like i said in the video, you can clock the OPDA in any position you want just as long as the crank dampener TDC mark and the OPDA holes are lined up. And yes the gear will turn as you pull it out or put it in. I never use the holding pin while installing it.
Thinking about this and had one more question:

I'll probably have to use a screwdriver to turn the oil pump to match the new clocked position right?
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Unread 02-18-2014, 09:58 AM   #4859
Bigbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OleBlue73 View Post
I did mine this evening. Hardest part was the reinstall of the hold down plate.
Access is hard for that bolt. If the air cleaner housing is removed it gets a lot easier. Another simple tip is to rotate the OPDA housing clockwise as far as you can which really opens up the area the bolt goes in. Then just snug the bolt down and line up the target wheel/OPDA housing holes before the final tightening. And if you are a FFA like me (fumble finger ape) you can tie a shoe lace to the 5/16" wrench so when you drop it 20 times you don't need to crawl under the Jeep and fine it of fish it out of the engine or trans skid!!



Quote:
Originally Posted by BorderTJ View Post
Thinking about this and had one more question:

I'll probably have to use a screwdriver to turn the oil pump to match the new clocked position right?
Correct. A totally non-scientific guesstimational operation.
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Unread 02-19-2014, 09:44 PM   #4860
BorderTJ
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Well I think I did it! Haha how soon after would I get a CEL if I had done it wrong?
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