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Unread 01-23-2014, 04:35 PM   #4816
Altonymous
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Have a lot of people had issues with the camshaft gear? I haven't pulled mine yet to look.. Wondering what the odds will be that I'm going to have an issue there.

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Unread 01-23-2014, 05:21 PM   #4817
Ljcrawler05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Altonymous View Post
Have a lot of people had issues with the camshaft gear? I haven't pulled mine yet to look.. Wondering what the odds will be that I'm going to have an issue there.
89k on mine and I haven't had any issues... yet
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Unread 01-23-2014, 05:34 PM   #4818
Altonymous
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I heard the cam gear is strong and the OPDA is softer so it doesn't tear up the cam gear.
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Unread 01-23-2014, 06:26 PM   #4819
Semper Fi 03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06philaTJ View Post
I'd go with the Oil Cup mod vs. the original grease fitting mod if your looking to experiment with the Mopar OPDA. I looked into the original grease fitting mod years ago and you basically have to guess how much grease you need to inject and check the OPDA fairly often. If you overfill it, it could cause binding of the shaft as well and grease has to be added every now and then. I also considered that some types of grease in low temps could possibly cause binding of the shaft with a cold engine since they could be less viscous than regular engine oil. The oil cup mod at least lets you monitor and add to the oil level and you can use regular old 10w30 engine oil, which is dirt cheap generally.

Those were basically the reasons why I declined that and several other modifcations listed here that looked good but seemed like only "band-aid" fixes to the problem in my opinion. Lucky for me, I didn't have a problem with my original, un-pulled/un-modified OPDA until this week and have a Dorman on standby to replace it. Good luck though if you try either modification as it would be interesting to see the results vs. the Dorman OPDA as I'm not 100% sold on a permanent solution to this problem yet.
I have the Dorman OPDA. What is different about them? How can I tell whether it needs the MODD or not?
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Unread 01-23-2014, 06:41 PM   #4820
Semper Fi 03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06philaTJ View Post
I'd go with the Oil Cup mod vs. the original grease fitting mod if your looking to experiment with the Mopar OPDA. I looked into the original grease fitting mod years ago and you basically have to guess how much grease you need to inject and check the OPDA fairly often. If you overfill it, it could cause binding of the shaft as well and grease has to be added every now and then. I also considered that some types of grease in low temps could possibly cause binding of the shaft with a cold engine since they could be less viscous than regular engine oil. The oil cup mod at least lets you monitor and add to the oil level and you can use regular old 10w30 engine oil, which is dirt cheap generally.

Those were basically the reasons why I declined that and several other modifcations listed here that looked good but seemed like only "band-aid" fixes to the problem in my opinion. Lucky for me, I didn't have a problem with my original, un-pulled/un-modified OPDA until this week and have a Dorman on standby to replace it. Good luck though if you try either modification as it would be interesting to see the results vs. the Dorman OPDA as I'm not 100% sold on a permanent solution to this problem yet.
I have the Dorman OPDA. What is different about them? How can I tell whether it needs the MODD or not?
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Unread 01-23-2014, 08:24 PM   #4821
mattadams05tj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Altonymous View Post
Have a lot of people had issues with the camshaft gear? I haven't pulled mine yet to look.. Wondering what the odds will be that I'm going to have an issue there.
Mine made it to 172k until It started laughing at me, the cam gear looked good when I replaced the opda
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Unread 01-23-2014, 09:49 PM   #4822
06philaTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Semper Fi 03 View Post
I have the Dorman OPDA. What is different about them? How can I tell whether it needs the MODD or not?
This is from my own observations of my two OPDA's (Mopar and Dorman) and what I read in this thread: The Dorman doesn't need any modifications like the ones listed in the beginning of the thread. It uses a bronze upper bushing that is able to receive lubrication from the engine oil all the way to the top of the OPDA shaft. This eliminates the binding issues on the upper shaft that plagues the OEM Mopar OPDA for 05-06 TJ's. The 05-06 OEM Mopar OPDA uses a steel bushing that is sealed off from the lower part of the shaft so it receives no lubrication from the engine oil. It relies on a small amount of grease in the upper bushing housing, which is inadequate to lube the bushing and the upper part of the shaft, resulting in binding. The binding of the shaft can cause abnormal wear on the OPDA gear, which in turn can cause extra wear on the cam gear. The "laughing monkey" sound is actually when the upper shaft is binding bad enough to cause the entire shaft to seize, which causes OPDA failure and in some cases, major engine damage.

The reason why there are so many modifications in the early pages of the thread is because the Dorman OPDA was not available until the end of 2012. There were no options for the past several years other than to mod an OEM Mopar OPDA since all of the 05-06 Mopar units, new and old are defective by design.
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Unread 01-23-2014, 11:28 PM   #4823
Altonymous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06philaTJ
This is from my own observations of my two OPDA's (Mopar and Dorman) and what I read in this thread: The Dorman doesn't need any modifications like the ones listed in the beginning of the thread. It uses a bronze upper bushing that is able to receive lubrication from the engine oil all the way to the top of the OPDA shaft. This eliminates the binding issues on the upper shaft that plagues the OEM Mopar OPDA for 05-06 TJ's. The 05-06 OEM Mopar OPDA uses a steel bushing that is sealed off from the lower part of the shaft so it receives no lubrication from the engine oil. It relies on a small amount of grease in the upper bushing housing, which is inadequate to lube the bushing and the upper part of the shaft, resulting in binding. The binding of the shaft can cause abnormal wear on the OPDA gear, which in turn can cause extra wear on the cam gear. The "laughing monkey" sound is actually when the upper shaft is binding bad enough to cause the entire shaft to seize, which causes OPDA failure and in some cases, major engine damage. The reason why there are so many modifications in the early pages of the thread is because the Dorman OPDA was not available until the end of 2012. There were no options for the past several years other than to mod an OEM Mopar OPDA since all of the 05-06 Mopar units, new and old are defective by design.
Thanks very much for summarizing this thread. Very we'll done!
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Unread 01-24-2014, 02:51 PM   #4824
aje3721
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And there you have it...
__________________
1984 CJ-7 383 TH350 D300 behind Novak, 3" Black Diamond, Currie Greasables, PowerTrax No Slip, DC-1 33X12.50X15
1994 YJ 4.0, Air Aide, Western UniMount plow, custom bumpers, custom sliders to cover the holes, Smittybilt XRC8000, cat back.
2006 LJ Rubi, 6" Rough Country X Flex long arm, 35" Mickeys.
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Unread 01-24-2014, 11:12 PM   #4825
Ljcrawler05
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I guess I'm just missing it but where is the part number for this thing. I haven't really had any issues with it up to this point but if it's as cheap as 85 dollars maintenance I'm gonna go ahead and pick one up.
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Unread 01-24-2014, 11:20 PM   #4826
Altonymous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljcrawler05
I guess I'm just missing it but where is the part number for this thing. I haven't really had any issues with it up to this point but if it's as cheap as 85 dollars maintenance I'm gonna go ahead and pick one up.
I installed Dorman 689-201 today and problem gone! I picked mine up off Amazon because I have prime.
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Unread 01-25-2014, 10:38 AM   #4827
06philaTJ
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I just replaced my original OPDA with 57,610 miles on it today. I noticed a mild squeaking tuesday during the snow storm here while clearing snow off of it to leave work and it's been hard to start everyday since when cold. Now with the Dorman installed it's quiet like the engine was new and it started in 20 degree weather as if it was 80 degrees out on an ice-cold engine.

Couple things to note that made it easy for me:
-You need a 3/4 inch socket for the engine pulley to turn it clockwise to line up the OPDA holes and a 1/2 inch wrench to remove the hold down bolt. The hold down bolt immediately loosened up after spraying a bit of PB blaster on it and I think the OPDA cap uses a t25 torx bit IIRC.
-Unbolt the CPS sensor from the housing (10mm bolt). Removing it gives you better access to the hold down bolt when removing the OPDA and you can shove the hold-down tab for the sensor inbetween the heater hoses to keep it out of the way.
-You don't have to remove the airbox, I just unbolted the airtube (8mm bolt) from it and loosened it on the TB so I could turn it out of the way.
-I soaked the new OPDA shaft/gear in the engine oil I use just for a piece of mind, not sure if it's needed though.
-As long as you lined up the holes correctly removing the OPDA, your golden as mine started without an issue despite knocking the Dorman alignment tab out for a second and having to re-insert it while installing it.

Regarding OPDA gear wear, the picture below (quality is poor with my camera phone) is my original, un-touched Mopar OPDA with only 57k and noticeable gouging on the gear teeth. The shaft still turns freely for the most part with only a slight resistance after X number of revolutions. Cam gear looked fine so the OPDA gear took the damage so I'm glad I didn't wait any longer to replace the OPDA.

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Unread 01-25-2014, 02:22 PM   #4828
boilerup1998
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"-As long as you lined up the holes correctly removing the OPDA, your golden as mine started without an issue despite knocking the Dorman alignment tab out for a second and having to re-insert it while installing it. "

Were you able to fully seat the unit with the factory alignment pin in place? I found that you have to take that pin out to allow the shaft to spin as it meshes with the cam gear in order for it to fully seat.
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Unread 01-25-2014, 03:05 PM   #4829
06philaTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boilerup1998 View Post
Were you able to fully seat the unit with the factory alignment pin in place? I found that you have to take that pin out to allow the shaft to spin as it meshes with the cam gear in order for it to fully seat.
Yep, I actually could not get it to seat right due to that so the alignment pin popping out wasn't a bad thing as I thought. Once it was meshed I put the pin back in, bolted it down, then removed the pin, started it and now it runs/drives fine.
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Unread 01-25-2014, 05:44 PM   #4830
winhawk
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So like today is OPDA install day. I did mine also, was very easy, used Bigbob's directions. My 05 LJ has 35300 miles. I had no noise but figured why wait till it's bad. OPDA gear had some ware, but not bad, also had a little on oil pump tang. The only thing I would add to directions is check TDC on engine. Don't trust lining up of holes. I thought I had mine perfect till I checked balancer. I was of probably 2-3 degrees off, which ain't much on the OPDA. I put nail in old alignment holes and OPDA rotated right out. I left pin in new one and it rotated right in, easy. Thanks for this post everyone helped alot.
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