2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 319 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > TJ Wrangler Technical Forum > 2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure

Artec Holiday Sale!Bead Lock Wheels! Raceline, Trail Ready, & Trail-GearROCKRIDGE4WD Introduces a NEW Jeep Wrangler JK *led* tail

Reply
Unread 01-15-2014, 05:19 PM   #4771
jkp
Registered User
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 426
The plastic cap should just come off if you can get the 2 bolts out.

Breaking it won't hurt anything.

__________________
'92 Islander
'06 Rubicon
jkp is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 08:34 PM   #4772
aje3721
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central PA
Posts: 123
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Read my removal/installation instructions:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-kG...MY2pfRUk0/edit

Get an oil with at least 10,000-12,000 PPM of zinc.
Hi Bigbob! Maybe not the right thread to ask this but I don't want to lose the moment since we are there. At what point do the elevated zinc levels start to plug the catalytic converters? I run Amsoil Z-Rod in all my Chevys but with no converters.
__________________
1984 CJ-7 383 TH350 D300 behind Novak, 3" Black Diamond, Currie Greasables, PowerTrax No Slip, DC-1 33X12.50X15
1994 YJ 4.0, Air Aide, Western UniMount plow, custom bumpers, custom sliders to cover the holes, Smittybilt XRC8000, cat back.
2006 LJ Rubi, 6" Rough Country X Flex long arm, 35" Mickeys.
aje3721 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 08:41 PM   #4773
meatlord
Animals taste good
 
meatlord's Avatar
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: western Iowa
Posts: 973
Quote:
Originally Posted by aje3721 View Post
Hi Bigbob! Maybe not the right thread to ask this but I don't want to lose the moment since we are there. At what point do the elevated zinc levels start to plug the catalytic converters? I run Amsoil Z-Rod in all my Chevys but with no converters.
Bad rings/mechanical failure mostly. The 2 systems are separate from each other. Oil usage would be a good sign of that.
__________________
05 Rubicon "Big Stupid" / 99 XJ on 31s "Nurple" FOR SALE. / 07 WK Limited CRD GDE Hot Tuned DPF delete. / 00 TJ "One Shot Wonder"/ 03 Nissan SE-R 6 speed V spec. / 00 Suzuki DR650.
meatlord is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 09:22 PM   #4774
Semper Fi 03
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 170
ok, I was able to work the bolt off of the cap with some vise grips.

I turned the engine, with a wrench, and lined the holes like you guys have said. I then placed an allen wrench into the holes and removed the camshaft synchronizer.

I place the new one in the same position the old one was in, and aligned the oil pump shaft. It all fell into place like it should. I bolted the clamp back on and put everything back together.

When I went to start the Jeep it would not start. Any idea why? Remember it just shut down when I was driving at 50MPH. It was making the Laughing Monkey sound before, and that is why I replaced the synchronizer. Could it be out of time? If it is, how did it just get out of time when I was driving the jeep?

I should take a picture of the synchronizer. There is some burn marks on it but, the gears all look ok to me.

Ideas?
Semper Fi 03 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 09:27 PM   #4775
DrewInDenver
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Denver
Posts: 33
When I did mine I had to disconnect the battery and reconnect it before it would start. You need to leave it disconnected for a few minutes before you reconnect it. Mine started right up after that.
DrewInDenver is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 09:30 PM   #4776
jkp
Registered User
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 426
Have you checked to see if there are any codes? Turn the key on off on off on, codes will display in the odo.

Check all the fuses under the hood and behind the glove box.

You can also check the relays for the fuel pump, etc by swapping them with the ones not required for the engine to run.
__________________
'92 Islander
'06 Rubicon
jkp is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 09:42 PM   #4777
Semper Fi 03
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 170
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkp View Post
Have you checked to see if there are any codes? Turn the key on off on off on, codes will display in the odo.

Check all the fuses under the hood and behind the glove box.

You can also check the relays for the fuel pump, etc by swapping them with the ones not required for the engine to run.
I tried the on off trick but it only showed the mileage. I did have the battery unhooked for at least a minute after it wouldn't start. Could that be the reason there are no codes being displayed?
Semper Fi 03 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 09:47 PM   #4778
jkp
Registered User
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 426
Unhooking the battery will clear the codes.

However, you should get "done" in the odo after the codes display even if there are no codes. You have to do it quickly.
__________________
'92 Islander
'06 Rubicon
jkp is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 09:54 PM   #4779
Semper Fi 03
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 170
I just did it but got nothing but the mileage. How quick is quick? Do you mean to not even let it show the mileage? Just on and off as quickly as I can?
Semper Fi 03 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 10:52 PM   #4780
Bigbob
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 3,589
Quote:
Originally Posted by aje3721 View Post
Hi Bigbob! Maybe not the right thread to ask this but I don't want to lose the moment since we are there. At what point do the elevated zinc levels start to plug the catalytic converters? I run Amsoil Z-Rod in all my Chevys but with no converters.
On the rubicon forum they ran this subject to the point of insanity. it was determined the best oil is a oil you can get that meets the proper weight and the ACEA A1-A3 or what ever it is that you can actually go to a store and buy. M1 High Mileage meets that criteria.
__________________
2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
Bigbob is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-16-2014, 08:37 AM   #4781
keithert
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 2,022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
And if you got a "stock" type OPDA you got screwed. You can get a Dorman with the proper bushings delivered for about $85
I haven't been following the topic as regularly since I had WillyDigger add the oil cup to my OPDA. Has the Dorman been determined to be a permanent fix? I thought I'd read some issues with the Dormans sensor being bad and people using the stock sensor on the Dorman OPDA. If my modded Chrysler OPDA is doing okay should I even consider switching to the Dorman? I have 19,000 miles on the modded OPDA now.
__________________
Current: 2005 Wrangler Unlimited - Past: 90 and 92 Trackers and 98 Wrangler SE
keithert is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-16-2014, 10:51 AM   #4782
Bigbob
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 3,589
Quote:
Originally Posted by keithert View Post
I haven't been following the topic as regularly since I had WillyDigger add the oil cup to my OPDA. Has the Dorman been determined to be a permanent fix? I thought I'd read some issues with the Dormans sensor being bad and people using the stock sensor on the Dorman OPDA. If my modded Chrysler OPDA is doing okay should I even consider switching to the Dorman? I have 19,000 miles on the modded OPDA now.
Use what you have if it's working, but for $85 it may be good insurance to go to Rockauto and get one before they are no longer available. The steel bushing stock unit is junk. The bronze bushing Dorman has to be better. I am testing one now to see how much oil gets to the top bushing. I used the old CPS as I have also heard of failures with the dorman unit. When I said he was screwed I meant he paid too much.
__________________
2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
Bigbob is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-16-2014, 04:15 PM   #4783
Semper Fi 03
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 170
OK, I have got the Jeep running. Let me tell you what has happen and, ask questions that maybe you guys can answer.

1. The Jeep is making the Laughing Monkey sounds.

2. Driving down the road at about 50 to 55 mph and the Jeep shuts down after a little spitting and sputtering.

3. I order and replace, the OPDA exactly the way it is said to do in the thread and on the videos.

4. Jeep will not start after the OPDA is replaced. The only way I could get it to run, at this point, is to spray starting fluid in the throttle body. It started and ran very very fast and then, bang, Backfired out of the throttle body. At this point, we all thought it was out of time but, I replaced the OPDA the way I was told to. Even after I wrenched the engine to aline the holes in the OPDA before removal.

5. I take the Jeep to a mechanic and, after he gets it to run, he calls me to tell me the Jeep is running. I asked what he did to it. He says it was out of time.

How did my Jeep get out of time if all I was doing was driving down the road at 50 or 55 mph? I pulled the OPDA out and replaced it with a new one in the exact same position. What happen???
Semper Fi 03 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-16-2014, 04:24 PM   #4784
jkp
Registered User
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 426
It is possible that the OPDA started to seize and rotated the OPDA housing.

To get the codes you have to do the on off on off on very quickly. On just long enough to flash the lights on the dash, then off. Leave on at the end.
__________________
'92 Islander
'06 Rubicon
jkp is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-16-2014, 04:31 PM   #4785
Bigbob
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 3,589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semper Fi 03 View Post
OK, I have got the Jeep running. Let me tell you what has happen and, ask questions that maybe you guys can answer.

1. The Jeep is making the Laughing Monkey sounds.

2. Driving down the road at about 50 to 55 mph and the Jeep shuts down after a little spitting and sputtering.

3. I order and replace, the OPDA exactly the way it is said to do in the thread and on the videos.

4. Jeep will not start after the OPDA is replaced. The only way I could get it to run, at this point, is to spray starting fluid in the throttle body. It started and ran very very fast and then, bang, Backfired out of the throttle body. At this point, we all thought it was out of time but, I replaced the OPDA the way I was told to. Even after I wrenched the engine to aline the holes in the OPDA before removal.

5. I take the Jeep to a mechanic and, after he gets it to run, he calls me to tell me the Jeep is running. I asked what he did to it. He says it was out of time.

How did my Jeep get out of time if all I was doing was driving down the road at 50 or 55 mph? I pulled the OPDA out and replaced it with a new one in the exact same position. What happen???


How bad did the gear look?

There is a slight possibility the target wheel slipped. On one of the units I rebuilt I discovered the target wheel could actually be moved by had. It was hard to move, but I could rotate it. The target wheel is just pressed on.

Glad to hear you got it figured out. BTW, if you would of set the crank to TDC you could of timed it.

And as far as the OPDA causing misfires that just sounds weird. The firing order ETC is controlled by the computer. The CPS/OPDA just sends a signal to the computer at start up to say everything is lined up. Once the engine is running I think you can disconnect the CPS and it will stay running. But I guess if the CPS is off it throws the computer off. You should have thrown a code.
__________________
2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
Bigbob is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.