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Unread 01-13-2014, 01:40 PM   #4756
govmule84
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2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Macungie, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aje3721 View Post
I have an 06 Rubi with 78K and it's a new to me ride. I've read all the threads, watched all the videos and waited for the failure to begin. The PO said the motor has always been quiet and had no issues. It's all stock. We'll today I started to hear a noise very similar to the monkeys but not at idle! It increases in speed with ground speed but not engine rpm. I don't hear it at idle and it's very apparent when rolling to a stop. I have a Dorman on the way if that's the issue. I have this sinking feeling that I should have never bought this thing knowing ahead of time about the potential for issues.
You're in good shape, dude. Pop it out, check it, put the Dorman in regardless. You have an easy fix; and this is not a major problem at this point in time.

Don't get down on it, this is easy!

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Unread 01-13-2014, 02:01 PM   #4757
aje3721
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Thanks man... The only thing that concerns me is that the noise isn't consistent with rpm, doesn't do it at idle and is more related to ground speed. But the sound is identical. If it's not the OPDA then what else would sound like that. I hear that horrendous sound in nightmares. Is it bearing? Can't be belt cause it's not doing it idle. I'm just a little lost. Would the OPDA make noise and quit at idle?
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1984 CJ-7 383 TH350 D300 behind Novak, 3" Black Diamond, Currie Greasables, PowerTrax No Slip, DC-1 33X12.50X15
1994 YJ 4.0, Air Aide, Western UniMount plow, custom bumpers, custom sliders to cover the holes, Smittybilt XRC8000, cat back.
2006 LJ Rubi, 6" Rough Country X Flex long arm, 35" Mickeys.
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Unread 01-13-2014, 02:11 PM   #4758
govmule84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aje3721 View Post
Thanks man... The only thing that concerns me is that the noise isn't consistent with rpm, doesn't do it at idle and is more related to ground speed. But the sound is identical. If it's not the OPDA then what else would sound like that. I hear that horrendous sound in nightmares. Is it bearing? Can't be belt cause it's not doing it idle. I'm just a little lost. Would the OPDA make noise and quit at idle?
I can't answer that... perhaps you have angry sparrows, and not angry monkey. However, your OPDA is a separate problem that does need attention. If it's drivetrain related, unhooking your front shaft and taking a spin might help narrow down what you're hearing.
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Unread 01-13-2014, 03:31 PM   #4759
Bigbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aje3721 View Post
Thanks man... The only thing that concerns me is that the noise isn't consistent with rpm, doesn't do it at idle and is more related to ground speed. But the sound is identical. If it's not the OPDA then what else would sound like that. I hear that horrendous sound in nightmares. Is it bearing? Can't be belt cause it's not doing it idle. I'm just a little lost. Would the OPDA make noise and quit at idle?
Any engine noise will change with RPM. Driveline noises will change with speed. Could be a wheel bearing, a u-joint, who knows. Don't fear the '05-'06 Jeep. They are great Jeeps.

Suggestions:

Check your wheel bearings. Jack up at the axle and see if the wheel bearing has movement by moving the 6 o-clock part of the wheel in and out.

Check your drive-shaft visually and if you want you can remove it and drive the Jeep and see it the noise is gone. The front shaft has a double cardan joint at the transfer case side and the centering ball can be dry/shot.

You can also check the rear shaft by removing it and running the Jeep on the front shaft only by using 4WD high.
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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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Unread 01-13-2014, 04:05 PM   #4760
jkp
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You probably have u joint issues since it changes with ground, not engine, speed.

Look up "angry sparrows."
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Unread 01-14-2014, 05:33 PM   #4761
aje3721
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Thanks guys. I guess I'm just not mentally prepared to be digging into the new ride at this point. I bought the thing "done" since I was somewhat tired of wrenching all the time. I have a Dorman in the box and am prepared to slide that in but I guess I wasn't prepared for the WTF was that when I heard the new chirp. Angry Sparrows? Really? I've never heard of this type of wildlife popping up in a Jeep. It has to be drivetrain. Thanks again for keeping me from pushing this thing over a bank. I think the reall issue is that I haven't even had a chance to fall in love with this girl yet. The ol' standby CJ and YJ have a permanent home; the LJ hasn't earned it yet!
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1984 CJ-7 383 TH350 D300 behind Novak, 3" Black Diamond, Currie Greasables, PowerTrax No Slip, DC-1 33X12.50X15
1994 YJ 4.0, Air Aide, Western UniMount plow, custom bumpers, custom sliders to cover the holes, Smittybilt XRC8000, cat back.
2006 LJ Rubi, 6" Rough Country X Flex long arm, 35" Mickeys.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 03:16 PM   #4762
Semper Fi 03
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I just had this problem happen to me but, I have not read where anyone has said that there Jeep quit running one them.

I had the Laughing Monkey sound for a couple of days, maybe a week. That lasted for about 10 minutes until the Jeep was nice and warm.

I drove it to my friend to ask him what was wrong. He was not sure but, we knew where the sound was coming from. On the drive home from his place, less then 10 miles, the Jeep shut down. I have tried to start the Jeep several times and it won't start. It sounds like it wants to but won't.

After reading all of the posts about the noise I heard, I ordered a new OPDA. I got lucky and found one on E-bay for $100, and I just got it today.

I have read and understand the removal of the old one. I even understand the marking of the old one to be removed. What I am not sure of, is how does the new one go in? If the "holes" are lined up, with the factory plastic plug, do I put the new one in. Or do I have to try and make them look the same before I put the new one in?

I have just bought this 2006 Wrangler Rubicon LJ with 29,000 miles on it in October. It only had 26,000 miles on it when I bought it. Now it is sitting in my driveway not running. This is my 10th Jeep and it is making me very upset! I only but around 3000 miles on it before this happen. Can anyone please help me!?!?
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Unread 01-15-2014, 03:19 PM   #4763
Semper Fi 03
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I only use Castrol synthetic oil in the Jeep. Does that have anything to do with it?
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Unread 01-15-2014, 03:47 PM   #4764
jkp
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Remove the cover on the one in the Jeep, rotate engine until the holes in the wheel and housing line up. Drop an allen wrench in the holes to ensure alignment. Remove old one. Install new one. Remove alignment pin in the new one. Done.

Did your Jeep lose oil pressure? If the OPDA gear broke, the pump is not running.

The type of oil used does not matter.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 04:17 PM   #4765
Semper Fi 03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkp View Post
Remove the cover on the one in the Jeep, rotate engine until the holes in the wheel and housing line up. Drop an allen wrench in the holes to ensure alignment. Remove old one. Install new one. Remove alignment pin in the new one. Done.

Did your Jeep lose oil pressure? If the OPDA gear broke, the pump is not running.

The type of oil used does not matter.
Glad to hear about the oil type not making a difference. It has been the only oil I have used for about 30 years, not all synthetic.

I have no idea about the oil pressure stopping or not. I also have no idea about the OPDA gear being broken. I will let you know when I get it out.

Thanks for the quick reply, I will go do it now.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 04:19 PM   #4766
jkp
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You will probably have to use a screwdriver to line up the slot in the oil pump to get the new one to seat. Just don't turn the engine once you have the old one out.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 04:21 PM   #4767
Semper Fi 03
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I am going to put the new one in to get it to run. After that I will be able to drive it to my friends house and have the zerk fitting placed in the OPDA. Should I do the oil groove on the shaft as well? He is a machinist, and will do it for free. I am going to give him the old one first, for a try, and then the new one.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 04:30 PM   #4768
jkp
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I think someone did the oil groove, don't remember the result thought. Try searching for it.

I went with a Dorman replacement in mine.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 04:58 PM   #4769
Semper Fi 03
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I can not remove the plastic cap on the old one. It will be ok if I break or cut it off, correct?
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Unread 01-15-2014, 05:00 PM   #4770
Bigbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Semper Fi 03 View Post
After reading all of the posts about the noise I heard, I ordered a new OPDA. I got lucky and found one on E-bay for $100, and I just got it today.

I have read and understand the removal of the old one. I even understand the marking of the old one to be removed. What I am not sure of, is how does the new one go in? If the "holes" are lined up, with the factory plastic plug, do I put the new one in. Or do I have to try and make them look the same before I put the new one in?

I have just bought this 2006 Wrangler Rubicon LJ with 29,000 miles on it in October. It only had 26,000 miles on it when I bought it. Now it is sitting in my driveway not running. This is my 10th Jeep and it is making me very upset! I only but around 3000 miles on it before this happen. Can anyone please help me!?!?
Read my removal/installation instructions:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-kG...MY2pfRUk0/edit



Quote:
Originally Posted by Semper Fi 03 View Post
I only use Castrol synthetic oil in the Jeep. Does that have anything to do with it?
Has nothing to do with the OPDA bushing failing as the oil never sees the bushing. But on these 4.0 engines oil is extremely important as is fuel.
The 4.0 was the last of the flat tappet gasoline engines sold in the USA and perhaps anywhere. Most all engines for the last decades use roller tappets (lifters). Since the roller tappet creates much less fiction at the tappet/camshaft interface oil companies were able to remove some of the zinc from their product which can make more pollution ETC. Get an oil with at least 10,000-12,000 PPM of zinc. ACEA A1-E2 (I think) is what you want in these dinosaurs. Mobil 1 full syn High Mileage oil works perfect. And you want a good detergent gasoline like Chevron with Tecron to avoid any build up on your valve stems which can add to the overall load on the cam and tappets.

And if you got a "stock" type OPDA you got screwed. You can get a Dorman with the proper bushings delivered for about $85
__________________
2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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