2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 301 - JeepForum.com

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post #4501 of 5452 Old 05-18-2013, 11:59 AM
TroubleNEO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljcrawler05 View Post
I've got 80k on my lj rubicon.. I've noticed a ticking.. sometimes it is very noticeable others not at all it generally is worse right after I crank it and when the engine is still cold. My oil pressure fluctuates between the middle of the gauge to the 3/4 mark depending on my rpm, which just seems odd. Does this sound like the symptoms of the opda? I want to fix it before it leads to other problems
Your ticking could be any number of things as well. Is it an actual tick, or more of a clacking? I have a clacking noise which I suspect is bearing failure from putting the Jeep on its side and not being able to quickly shut off the engine.

Most of the time a ticking that goes away when the engine warms up is exhaust related. A common place to have that happen is the flanges where the mini cats bolt up to the rest of the exhaust. If you can get up in there from the bottom with an impact and some long extensions tighten them up and see if that doesn't help. Also look up the torque specs for the exhaust manifold and torque all the bolts, or at the very least just see if you can tighten them up a little with a wrench or ratchet. Those tend to get loose and cause leaks as well.


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post #4502 of 5452 Old 05-18-2013, 04:08 PM
goofus
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Originally Posted by TroubleNEO View Post
Even the end that drives the oil pump has a bad notch worn into it from the OPDA binding the oil pump slamming into it when the OPDA slows down.


That wear is EXACTLY what I found on mine and I'm pretty sure the startup tick was right there. I could not pin down the tick to anywhere else. I'm thinking that once the oil pump got warm enough and oil worked up around that spot, the noise faded/stopped. Startup tick disappeared after I replaced the OPDA. There were not other wear/damage symptoms.

When the tick was ticking, I got a stethoscope on the top of the OPDA (the plastic lid) and that was where I heard BANG BANG BANG. Nothing (or very faint sound) on the valve cover, intake, and exhaust manifold.

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post #4503 of 5452 Old 05-19-2013, 02:19 AM
TroubleNEO
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Originally Posted by goofus View Post
That wear is EXACTLY what I found on mine and I'm pretty sure the startup tick was right there. I could not pin down the tick to anywhere else. I'm thinking that once the oil pump got warm enough and oil worked up around that spot, the noise faded/stopped. Startup tick disappeared after I replaced the OPDA. There were not other wear/damage symptoms.

When the tick was ticking, I got a stethoscope on the top of the OPDA (the plastic lid) and that was where I heard BANG BANG BANG. Nothing (or very faint sound) on the valve cover, intake, and exhaust manifold.
Makes sense. The binding is what causes the scoring and, and one could assume that when the binding occurs that naturally the OPDA would slow down. This would probably allow the quickly spinning oil pump to catch up to it, or at least this is my theory.

Right now I have a pretty bad clacking on startup. It's not even a ticking anymore, it is literally a clacking that almost sounds like bearing failure. Hoping that replacing the OPDA will solve it, because I would be shocked if that were the case and I actually had bearing failure.

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post #4504 of 5452 Old 05-21-2013, 09:16 AM
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My new OPDA will be here tomorrow. Anyone know if I can set the timing myself if I have a scan tool? I know there is a special functionality of the DRBIII scantool to do it, but if my scan tool can see the timing can I just put the new OPDA in the same as the old one, and then adjust it until the timing is within spec?

I know a few people said they noticed a large difference when they had the dealership do it.

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post #4505 of 5452 Old 05-21-2013, 09:30 AM
George2005
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Good question! I have a ACTRON Auto Scanner Plus # CP9580. Will this unit do the job? I only used it once to diagnose a ABS issue I had with a Ford pick up.. Box said it displays live engine data!!! Anyone know ?George

2005 Black Rocky Mountain Edition Wrangler 6cyl, 4 speed auto, D44 Rear 3.73's, Tilt, tinted, 7 speaker sound with sub and CD on Ravine Wheels 30X9.50's for now stock..
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post #4506 of 5452 Old 05-21-2013, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroubleNEO View Post
My new OPDA will be here tomorrow. Anyone know if I can set the timing myself if I have a scan tool? I know there is a special functionality of the DRBIII scantool to do it, but if my scan tool can see the timing can I just put the new OPDA in the same as the old one, and then adjust it until the timing is within spec?

I know a few people said they noticed a large difference when they had the dealership do it.
When I put mine in.
I turned the main crank by hand/wrench to get the timing mark set TDC, YOu will need to remove the fan belt to get it out of the way so you can see the marks. I just loosened mine up so I could see the marks

I made sure the holes was lined up on the old ODPA. pulled it, dropped the new one, lined up the "holes" using the plastic pin. bolted everything back together,

Never looked back.

I think the Key points here is Make sure you get the fan belt out of the way to make sure you get at TDC marks, hard to see it if you do not get the fan belt out of the way. Set the timing at TDC. Make sure the ODPA "HOLES" are aligned.

This was almost a plug and play operation. Not as easy as changing the battary but close.

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post #4507 of 5452 Old 05-22-2013, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Submariner View Post
When I put mine in.
I turned the main crank by hand/wrench to get the timing mark set TDC, YOu will need to remove the fan belt to get it out of the way so you can see the marks. I just loosened mine up so I could see the marks

I made sure the holes was lined up on the old ODPA. pulled it, dropped the new one, lined up the "holes" using the plastic pin. bolted everything back together,

Never looked back.

I think the Key points here is Make sure you get the fan belt out of the way to make sure you get at TDC marks, hard to see it if you do not get the fan belt out of the way. Set the timing at TDC. Make sure the ODPA "HOLES" are aligned.

This was almost a plug and play operation. Not as easy as changing the battary but close.
Gotcha thanks!

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post #4508 of 5452 Old 05-22-2013, 01:30 PM
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Here is a question, why do I need to have the engine at TDC or even touch the belt if I just line the holes up on the old OPDA, remove it, line the holes up on the new OPDA and drop it in? That seems like it would take care of the TDC marks being in the same place on it's own.

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post #4509 of 5452 Old 05-22-2013, 02:02 PM
ngajeeping
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroubleNEO
Here is a question, why do I need to have the engine at TDC or even touch the belt if I just line the holes up on the old OPDA, remove it, line the holes up on the new OPDA and drop it in? That seems like it would take care of the TDC marks being in the same place on it's own.
That's all we done to mine good so far a week later
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post #4510 of 5452 Old 05-22-2013, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroubleNEO View Post
Here is a question, why do I need to have the engine at TDC or even touch the belt if I just line the holes up on the old OPDA, remove it, line the holes up on the new OPDA and drop it in? That seems like it would take care of the TDC marks being in the same place on it's own.
That is correct in most cases. Lining up the TDC marks is more for those that get the P0016 code after installation. That means it won’t be on TDC when the holes line up so TDC must be set, then turn the housing to line up the holes. Also if there is a lot of gear wear it is a good idea to check the marks. As the gears wear the wheel will become somewhat retarded so a slight correction might be needed.
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post #4511 of 5452 Old 05-22-2013, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TroubleNEO View Post
... if I just line the holes up on the old OPDA, remove it, line the holes up on the new OPDA and drop it in ...
Here is what I did (A-Z with notes..):

Disconnected the wiring harness connector and retaining clip
Remove cap from OE unit
Turn motor until holes line up
Drop in Allen key / hex wrench
Removed the retainer and bolt
Pulled the OE unit out soft and smoothly allowing the unit to spin out off the cam gear
Took mental note of sensor position once released from the cam gear
Checked condition of gears, cam didn't even look wrn (have had a feeling previous owner put in a new cam.)
Grabbed dorman and put in same position while its retention pin was in place
Gently slid new dorman in allowing the unit to spin on the cam gear
Installed retainer and bolt
Pulled retention pin from new unit.
Connected wiring to wiring harness and retainer
Primed oil and fired up
Allowed engine to warm up while I listened for any noises
None were heard, and no codes on the dash
Went for a test drive, noticed an improvement to drivablity I'm still enjoying

In short take everything out in time, and replace with new unit in time and everything will be fine.

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Last edited by SolarOne; 05-22-2013 at 07:07 PM. Reason: legibility and typo
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post #4512 of 5452 Old 05-23-2013, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroubleNEO View Post
Here is a question, why do I need to have the engine at TDC or even touch the belt if I just line the holes up on the old OPDA, remove it, line the holes up on the new OPDA and drop it in? That seems like it would take care of the TDC marks being in the same place on it's own.
I did that first, figured it would be just as good. Went ahead and looked at the TDC, was off by 2 degrees, not much but just enough to cause a problem. turn the crank to tdc, hole was off just a smidgen.

So check your tdc, align the holes and go for it.

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post #4513 of 5452 Old 05-23-2013, 01:01 PM
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just FYI, my 04 wear patterns didnt look much different than your 05-06's. 130k miles on the OEM one.





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post #4514 of 5452 Old 05-23-2013, 05:22 PM
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Replaced the OPDA with the Dorman unit today. Probably going to need to have a relearn done with a DRBIII tool, runs like the timing is out some and I haven't been able to get it back in by hand. It runs though, definitely good enough to drive.

The last few times I fired it up though the clacking that I thought was bearing failure was not present. It usually started when you started it cold and then went away when the engine warmed up but now....nothing. Add another item to the list of weird **** a worn OPDA causes I guess. Some people have said theirs was a knocking noise, but this was literally like rod knock or bearing failure. Pretty much just "CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK" until the engine warmed it. It was getting bad enough that I was considering pulling the engine and having it rebuilt.

I lined the holes up, dropped an allen key in, pulled the OPDA, and dropped the new one in. Pulled the pin on the new one, spun it out of the way, put the hold down and bolt back on loosely, spun the opda back and stuck the pin back in. Then I tightened the hold down and finally yanked the pin. I didn't end up removing the belt to find TDC, which could be why it runs why the timing is slightly out.

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post #4515 of 5452 Old 05-24-2013, 05:51 AM
keithert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie
just FYI, my 04 wear patterns didnt look much different than your 05-06's. 130k miles on the OEM one.
That looks a whole lot better than most of the 05-06 I've seen with half that many miles.

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