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Unread 12-23-2010, 07:56 PM   #31
smittycm
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Okay, so I removed my OPDA. Here are the pics...











Is the wear on the shaft in this last photo normal?

So what do you think. The Jeep has just over 80k on the odometer. I'm not sure what normal wear would look like. So this isn't normal wear for a vehicle with 80k on it? Am I doomed? When rotating the shaft I didn't feel any resistance or any type of grinding at all. It felt completely smooth. There was some up and down play (maybe 1/16"-1/8"), but none side to side at all.

This OPDA has lasted me this long with the resulting wear, and what you're saying is that by purchasing a new OPDA and performing the mod mentioned, I won't have to worry about premature failure? The wear isn't even at all. Some of the teeth are more worn than the others. It may be hard to tell in the pics. I suppose it only takes one tooth to fail on me for my engine to be screwed, eh?

That's so awesome you all have taken the time to figure all this out. I can't believe Chrysler hasn't taken action -- or maybe I'm not surprised at all. I'm surprised that this apparent problem hasn't plagued ALL 05-06 Jeep owners. I hear all the time about people driving their Jeeps for 200k+ miles. I'm surprised I haven't heard of more of these engines dying early because of this.

I love this forum! Full of tons of good information and helpful folks!

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Unread 12-24-2010, 08:48 AM   #32
willydigger
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We don't know it all and we are speculating on some elements. There will be wear regardless if there is a problem or not. The wear you show matched my original.

The problem is that the OPDA is designed with a flaw in the upper bushing. It may fail fast or take a while. The problem I have is no confidence. I would like to see the actual shaft around the upper bushing. I only have one conclusive image. FOG has mentioned on several occasions about heat damage to the top section of the shaft so I believe it is common.

80K is on the high end. Congratulations on lasting that long.

I can't make any promises on how long a new OPDA will last with this mod. Based on the information we have seen with the dissection and the evidence of heat on the upper bushing, the mod will not hurt. It is relatively inexpensive and will allow lubrication on the upper bushing. FOG has reported that he has seen OPDA's with the mod after 20K with no issues. I believe that and I would think there would be indications if it wasn't working at 20K.

It is you decision on how to go from here. Knowing what I know I would order a new OPDA and make the mod.

Also just for clarity what oil were you using?
What was the REV? B or E?
How much city:highway driving? 50:50?
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Unread 12-24-2010, 08:57 AM   #33
Elwood
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Thanks so much for all the efforts put into this issue. I have not pulled mine yet, but I did order a couple gaskets yesterday. My LJ has 42k miles on it and when it is very cold outside, before the engine gets to operating temp. mine will squeal a little.

I am going to pull mine next week and see what it looks like and if all is OK, perform the mod. When I ordered gaskets, I inquired about the unit. She told me that there were 150 on back order in "our district", whatever that means. I spoke with a service tech. and he said he has replaced two broken gears, but never seen any excessively worn gears. This is at a very small dealership in rural Illinois.

Again, thanks so much for all the efforts!!!
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Unread 12-24-2010, 09:06 AM   #34
willydigger
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Two points.

First point. Send me pics or add pics to the thread. The more images the more we'll learn.

Second point. For all the perfectionists out there, please forgive the way this thread is coming together. Each day, several times a day, I will be updating the sections with comments or additional pics. As people come up with questions not covered I'll update the front page. This may hide details that weren't there during the first read through. I may use one of the reserved posts to help direct things.

In the meantime, thanks for the support and keep the questions and hopefully pics coming.
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Unread 12-24-2010, 12:24 PM   #35
willydigger
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Updated Section 10 to Results. There are some new premature images. They only offer how fast the shaft scoring occurs and the importance of the right grease.

Updated Removal with very nice (if I do say so myself) marking image of target wheel. I finally learned to mark where the shaft needs to be for re-installation.
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Unread 12-24-2010, 12:43 PM   #36
4.0l sahara
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Just a thought but atleast for extra lube for the lower bushing. Why not t off the oil sender and run a oil line to the lower bushing. You could use a small jet to restrict the oil flow.
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Unread 12-24-2010, 01:08 PM   #37
TheFog
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This has been talked about a good bit in the other thread. The benefits vs the risk and difficulty just isn't worth it. The way I look at it is that never has a vehicle needed a pressurized lubrication system on a distributor cap shaft. Between greasing the upper bushing and having grooves machined into the bottom of the shaft the problem is easily solvable without risking a major oil leak.

The lower shaft does show a little bit of wear marks but they are so light that a pass or two of 1000+ grit sand paper will them disappear. The bottom half has never shown any signs of heating up nor trying to seize. The upper bushing however clearly shows signs of extreme heat from lack of lubrication and several Jeep owners have actually had the upper bushings seize to the point of making the assembly spin around and rip the wiring harness apart.



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Unread 12-24-2010, 04:31 PM   #38
smittycm
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Thanks for the information. To answer your questions...

Also just for clarity what oil were you using?

--- I just bought the Jeep three weeks ago. I just changed the oil yesterday and put plain old Valvoline 10w-30 in it. I have no idea what the PO was using prior to me buying the vehicle.

What was the REV? B or E?

--- For some reason the sticker has been removed from the OPDA. I have no idea which revision it is.

How much city:highway driving? 50:50?

--- PO used the vehicle as a daily driver, as do I. I would say 50/50.

I have to say this issue has turned me off of Jeeps as quickly as I was turned onto them. I'm looking to sell the vehicle now. I've always said Americans can't build a vehicle for s^%$. Sucks to say that, but that's how I feel based on my experiences. This is the first American vehicle I've purchased in a long time. Now I'm thinking I should have went with a Tacoma afterall. Totally sucks to say that. NO OFFENSE to all the Jeep lovers on this forum. I'm not trying to start a war here. I'm just so totally pissed that there is an obvious inherent flaw with the design of this engine, and there isn't even a fix for it. I feel like I'm driving around a ticking time bomb. As if at any moment my motor is going lose oil pressure and take a crap on me. I shouldn't HAVE to replace the OPDA after only 80k. If it WAS only limited to the OPDA, I'd be pissed, but I could deal with it. The fact that it affects the cam as well REALLY irks me. That's not an easy fix. I shouldn't have to worry about all this. With regular preventative maintenance, I should expect my motor to last me well beyond 200k with minimal issue. Okay, I'm done ranting. Again, nothing against the Jeep lovers. And I can't say enough how much I appreciate the research done already, and everyone's assistance. I'll replace the OPDA, and then I'm selling this thing next spring before I end up having to do even more expensive internal engine work.
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Unread 12-24-2010, 05:10 PM   #39
smittycm
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And just to clarify, the OPDA issue ISN'T the only major issue I'm having with my "new" used Jeep. I've also been experiencing the jumping out of gear (JOG) issue with 1st gear that MANY other folks have been having with the 6-speed manual transmissions. I only have a two inch BDS lift. No T-case drop or any other mods to suspension/body. I've read of several instances where people have had to have their new transmissions replaced with very low mileage on the motor. Between the transmission issue, and now this OPDA, that is unacceptable in my book, and should be in everyone else's as well. I feel super lucky that the vehicle appears to be going strong still after 80k. I'm waiting for it to leave me stranded roadside somewhere though. I guess I could look for an older TJ (pre-2005), or a CJ. Again, forgive the ranting, I'm just not very happy with Chrysler/Jeep right now.
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Unread 12-25-2010, 10:34 AM   #40
willydigger
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Completely understandable. I was very angry too. I had also contemplated going after a 2003 TJ. Once I calmed down a little I've opted to stick with it. For one I want to see it through. I want all this work and effort to be rewarded with a fixed unit. It is a shame that I (we) have to go through it, but I think we've discovered the root cause and can now make adjustments.

For some reason I have an attachment to my Jeep. I can't just discard it. It's like a wounded animal. Give it a little love and it will be fine. That's the optimist in me.

All that said, I would not recommend a new buyer to purchase a 2005-06. I would not recommend a Tacoma either. There is something special about a Jeep that a P/U (with the possible exception of the Raptor) can't compare with.

Have a good holiday.
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Unread 12-25-2010, 11:47 AM   #41
TheFog
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I agree no vehicle is perfect and I just think of it as another mod. I don't think I have ever owned a vehicle that didn't have some defect like this that I had to fix. My 01 4Runner has a history of rupturing the auto trans cooler in the radiator and getting anti-freeze in the transmission. I just installed a aftermarket cooler and bypassed the radiator. My 95 GMC diesel has a problem with the injector pump transistors. I built a new mount to relocate the pump transistors and it runs fine now.

Both vehicles now don't give me any problems and I have a good feeling of accomplishment by being able to come up with a good fix to make a vehicle reliable that most others would give up on.

Aside from the CPS issue the 05 and 06 TJ/LJs are pretty well built and reliable vehicles especially if they have a manual transmission.


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Unread 12-28-2010, 06:16 PM   #42
willydigger
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Quick Update:

When I removed the OPDA shaft using the Mobilith 220 I reinstalled it with Aeroshell 33MS, but I forgot to clean the shaft back to new. I pulled it again today to sand it with some 2000 grit sand paper. The top bushing was covered in MS33. It had squeezed out the top and globbed around the black plastic washer. While the 220 had very minimal contact the 33MS was everywhere. I was very impressed with the coverage.

I polished the shaft clean. I added some oil to the inside of the OPDA to make sure it didn't dry start. Once I get 5000 miles I'll post up the start shaft pics and the used shaft pics for comparison. To keep the thread clean until I get "after" images I'll put the "before" image here.









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Unread 12-28-2010, 06:58 PM   #43
kellyII
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man im totally bumed now, im not motor savvy at all. i feel i need to do this mod but I know I have no business turning a wrench. what to do, what to do... UGH

I need to get this fixed but I dont know what to do. Dam this pisses me off
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Unread 12-28-2010, 07:02 PM   #44
ChaseB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellyII View Post
man im totally bumed now, im not motor savvy at all. i feel i need to do this mod but I know I have no business turning a wrench. what to do, what to do... UGH

I need to get this fixed but I dont know what to do. Dam this pisses me off
We're in the same boat my friend, I just picked up a 2005 X with low miles. Oil Pump Drive Gear was replaced under recall but I'm not convinced that did anything....shame there isn't an aftermarket replacement so I could just drop a new one in
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Unread 12-29-2010, 12:19 AM   #45
ianschrd
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First I want to say think you Fog and Willydigger for putting in a lot of time and effort into finding a solution to this problem.

I know there was a lot of talk on the other thread about changing the gear on the OPDA. Is that still recommended? I just ordered my part today, 153 on back order.
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