2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 282 - JeepForum.com

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post #4216 of 5448 Old 01-17-2013, 06:03 AM
flyingjeff
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I tried this. Apparently my engine spins pretty freely. Two or three blips of the key moved the OPDA 1/4 turn. One more blip went about 1/2 turn.

After three attempts at your method, I went back to the wrench.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargo View Post
Or you could take the cover off the OPDA and follow these simple steps

1) Check if the if the holes line up. If not:
2) Get in Jeep and give the key a quick flick. The OPDA turns at 1/2 engine speed. It won't spin past the hole with small quick flicks of the key.
3) Get out of Jeep and repeat step 1.

Once the holes are lined up, pull the key from the ignition so no one turns it over. Put them in your toolbox or somewhere so you don't either. Then drop a small screwdriver or nail or something in the holes and proceed as indicated in the video. This is what I did. I think my holes were off by about a 1/4 turn when I started and it took about 3 quick flicks of the key to line them up.


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post #4217 of 5448 Old 01-17-2013, 08:13 AM
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Sounds like OPDA roulette :P
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post #4218 of 5448 Old 01-17-2013, 08:22 AM
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HEY! If you're going to do Canadian humor there has to be beer involved!
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post #4219 of 5448 Old 01-17-2013, 09:08 AM
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I have a 2005 .. Is there a Serial number build date one can go by to see if mine falls into this category? My build date is 04-2005. I been using Valvoline conventional 10W30 till about 30,000 then I switched to Castrol semi synthetic oil in 10W30..Now with 41,000 miles on her I Was thinking of going to Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W30.. Will this help with the wear on my OPDA ? George

2005 Black Rocky Mountain Edition Wrangler 6cyl, 4 speed auto, D44 Rear 3.73's, Tilt, tinted, 7 speaker sound with sub and CD on Ravine Wheels 30X9.50's for now stock..
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post #4220 of 5448 Old 01-19-2013, 03:04 PM
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I'll throw my 2 cents in here--I have an 06 Rubicon, engine build date 03/06, with the same bleeping symptoms--sudden, sporadic, severe power loss and bucking. Happens under heavy acceleration, 1st or 2nd gear. Dealer replaced sensor, reported that the gears looked fine, and all was well for two months. Happened again, this time I pulled the OPDA and sure enough, the gears were irregularly and deeply worn on the faces, and one brightly burnished, slightly worn spot on the back of one tooth. Mucho play in the system, which certainly would comport with the symptoms I'm seeing. So I'm taking another run at the dealer and see how my otherwise very helpful service advisor can get done. But I'm surprised NTSB is not ordering a recall on this, given the very scary, wild bronco loss of power experience I've had several times now.


So...fast forward to December, 2015, and guess what...quick right turn, accelerate, and yes indeed, bucko-stoppo--it's baaaaaacckkk! Had to pull off road 3x in 3 miles; made it home; then ran OK in test drive. Oddly, not throwing codes. But I pulled the four-letter OPDA and sure enough, the bronze gear is well-worn. This was the Mopar part from the prior replacement--ordered a Dorman this time and will have a spare in the back from now on. Also changing to higher zinc motor oil, whilst noting that other posts indicate that drag on the upper bushing is the problem; that a freely-spinning OPDA out of the engine ain't the same as in the engine, under heat and load. May be something to that, as the amount of lateral play is imperceptible to the hand. Very frustrating, and I encourage all sufferers to report this Outrageous Painfully Defective Assembly (OPDA) to the NHTSA http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/ and see if we can get some action on this.

Photos: First two are the 2013 failure; second two are 2015. Note thinning of gear teeth--losing close to half the width of the tooth. I've got a spare ordered along with a replacement, and may venture to do the modifications to it in hopes of ending this madness....


January 2016: Lastly, after replacing the unit and a satisfactory test drive, I disassembled the old (second) OEM unit--the shaft showed zero perceptible wear; only the faintest grayish discoloration which rubbed off with finger pressure. For 2 years' use, I see no issue with the bearing aspect. In my view, there may be two things going on: a significant number of overly soft gears which wear rapidly and lead to the bucking misfire syndrome; others have the bearing issue. After further research I've decided to grab a Crown unit and use this Dorman as my onboard spare, and am changing to Valvoline VRX oil; will start pulling the OPD at least every 6,000 miles for physical exam.


Sometimes, it would be so delicious to strangle some engineer....


Good luck to yah'll in the OPDA battles....
Attached Thumbnails
DSCN1307.JPG   DSCN1310.JPG   IMG_4474.jpg   IMG_4475.jpg  

Last edited by mccgsm; 12-28-2015 at 10:32 PM. Reason: Update with Dec. 2015 failure; new photos
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post #4221 of 5448 Old 01-19-2013, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubithebeast View Post
could you just use the original hole that the plug is in on the opda housing and put an oil bath in that way. or is something else in the way? i know i would still have to tap it but looks about the same height as the other hole that has been drilled in the modded opda.
Yes you can. But if your seal has already failed the oil bath won't work very good. IMHO the SG Mod is by far and above the easiest and best way to go.

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #4222 of 5448 Old 01-19-2013, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccgsm View Post
I'll throw my 2 cents in here--I have an 06 Rubicon, engine build date 03/06, with the same bleeping symptoms--sudden, sporadic, severe power loss and bucking. Happens under heavy acceleration, 1st or 2nd gear.
I don't think the OPDA will give you those symptoms.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mccgsm View Post
But I'm surprised NTSB is not ordering a recall on this, given the very scary, wild bronco loss of power experience I've had several times now.
Recalls are only meant for issues that can injure or kill people.

I'd never trust my Jeep to a dealership unless it was a warranty deal at no cost. And even then they won't fix the OPDA issue. In the case of the OPDA they will put the same deal back in and it is the same as the units they started to put in '05 units back almost 9 years ago. But if you still are under warranty and the cam gear is shot I'd have them replace the cam and/or the OPDA. Once you get it home remove that new OPDA and do the SG mod to it. No more issues.

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
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6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #4223 of 5448 Old 01-19-2013, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George2005 View Post
I have a 2005 .. Is there a Serial number build date one can go by to see if mine falls into this category? My build date is 04-2005. I been using Valvoline conventional 10W30 till about 30,000 then I switched to Castrol semi synthetic oil in 10W30..Now with 41,000 miles on her I Was thinking of going to Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W30.. Will this help with the wear on my OPDA ? George
Any and all '05-'06 models.

Mobil 1 High Mileage full synthetic has all the zinc you need for the flat tappet 4.0. As far as the OPDA any oil is fine. The wear on the gear and bushings is not caused by what oil you use. The whole zinc thing has to do with the flat tappets (valve lifters) these engines use.

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #4224 of 5448 Old 01-19-2013, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Any and all '05-'06 models.

Mobil 1 High Mileage full synthetic has all the zinc you need for the flat tappet 4.0. As far as the OPDA any oil is fine. The wear on the gear and bushings is not caused by what oil you use. The whole zinc thing has to do with the flat tappets (valve lifters) these engines use.
What oil would you recommend that has enough zinc in the shell brand?
Do you by chance have a list of oils that would be good to use?
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post #4225 of 5448 Old 01-20-2013, 04:55 PM
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Well I took out my fog mod unit today & it has roughly 14,000 miles on it & replaced it with a new SG modded unit. My fog modded unit spins more freely than the new SG unit. The lower oil lite bushing being dry may have something to do with this? The factory unit had 30,800 miles on it when I got a new unit to fog mog. It now has 44,000 miles on it total. The gear wear on the fog mod unit versus the factory unit is less but it is about half the mileage.
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post #4226 of 5448 Old 01-20-2013, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSAdrenaline

What oil would you recommend that has enough zinc in the shell brand?
Do you by chance have a list of oils that would be good to use?
I don't know about Shell brands, but Mobil 1, Valvoline VR1 Racing, some Rotellas, plus a few more have good content. For a full list/discussion see the"oil section" at the beginning of this thread. The VR1 Racing is my personal choice after much research, FWIW. Few stock it, but most will special order if you ask and will have it in a day or two.

Gear-Calculator Stu Can Help You Part Names and Numbers Dealer Supplied Parts and ask for "Jeep Club" Prices


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post #4227 of 5448 Old 01-20-2013, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSAdrenaline View Post
What oil would you recommend that has enough zinc in the shell brand?
Do you by chance have a list of oils that would be good to use?
You look for a 10/30 wt oil with ACEA A1/B3 API is SL The ACEA ratings vary by oil wts. The 4.0 uses a 10/30 oil. Zinc is 1100 PPM.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

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6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #4228 of 5448 Old 01-23-2013, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Any and all '05-'06 models.

Mobil 1 High Mileage full synthetic has all the zinc you need for the flat tappet 4.0. As far as the OPDA any oil is fine. The wear on the gear and bushings is not caused by what oil you use. The whole zinc thing has to do with the flat tappets (valve lifters) these engines use.
Thanks, Was not going to go with the Mobil 1 High Mileage full synthetic oil yet only 41,000 miles on her, Just going with the mobile 1 10-30 Full synthetic oil for now.. So far I have no issues but would pulling the unit out and having a look at the gear tell all with it? Do I need to look other places on it? Is there a reliable replacement unit? Oh this Jeep don't see winter cold as it garaged in the winter don't know if this will help with the wear factor or not.. Thanks again! George

2005 Black Rocky Mountain Edition Wrangler 6cyl, 4 speed auto, D44 Rear 3.73's, Tilt, tinted, 7 speaker sound with sub and CD on Ravine Wheels 30X9.50's for now stock..
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post #4229 of 5448 Old 01-23-2013, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by George2005 View Post
Thanks, Was not going to go with the Mobil 1 High Mileage full synthetic oil yet only 41,000 miles on her, Just going with the mobile 1 10-30 Full synthetic oil for now.. So far I have no issues but would pulling the unit out and having a look at the gear tell all with it? Do I need to look other places on it? Is there a reliable replacement unit? Oh this Jeep don't see winter cold as it garaged in the winter don't know if this will help with the wear factor or not.. Thanks again! George
The object of the High Mileage oil is it is made for old engines like your 4.0. Don't matter if you have 346 miles on it, it is a dinosaur. No engine has been built for many many years with flat tappets with the exception of some lawn mower engines and the 4.0. Oil companies changed the formulation of oils in order to get better emissions control and longer cat life in vehicles. Look at the ACEA rating and make sure you have 1,000-1,200 PPM minimum of zinc in it. Mobil 1 10-30 has 900 PPM and Mobil 1 HM 10-30 has 1,100 PPM zinc.

The gear wear is not oil related. The gear wears as the shaft binds/drags in the upper unlubricated steel bushing. Even though you may think the shaft "spins freely" by hand, it is a different world with the engine running and that shaft spinning at 1,000-1,500 RPM. You need to check the upper bushing area. It will be worn.

There is a unit made by Dorman that is a good replacement, but being it is fairly new no long term reports have been out yet. But IMHO it will be a good fix. You can modify your unit with the many mods shown on page 1 of this monster. The best mod hands down is the SG mod which replaces the top bushing with a bearing and the bottom with a proper bronze bushing.

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #4230 of 5448 Old 01-23-2013, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George2005 View Post
Thanks, Was not going to go with the Mobil 1 High Mileage full synthetic oil yet only 41,000 miles on her, Just going with the mobile 1 10-30 Full synthetic oil for now.. So far I have no issues but would pulling the unit out and having a look at the gear tell all with it? Do I need to look other places on it? Is there a reliable replacement unit? Oh this Jeep don't see winter cold as it garaged in the winter don't know if this will help with the wear factor or not.. Thanks again! George
Skip the synthetics and go with Valvoline VR-1 10W-30. It's formulated with plenty of ZDDP, just like from when these engines would have been more "mainstream". I can't say enough good things about this oil.

My engine is quieter since the switch and I've been closely monitoring the wear on my new cam and OPDA gear - it is breaking in nicely and has little to no wear after about 9,000 miles.

Chris
'02 Sahara
'06 Rubicon Unlimited
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