2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 278 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > TJ Wrangler Technical Forum > 2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure

Hella Rallye 1000 Series 12-Volt/55-Watt Black Magic HalogFS: Jeep Fog Light LED Bulbs! Several Brightness Options! Jeep Wrangler Hurricane Flat Fender Flare Kits for 2007-20

Reply
Unread 01-09-2013, 04:43 PM   #4156
ericshere03
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sandy Eggo, CA
Posts: 28
OK Folks, Dorman Ordered

So I just ordered a Dorman unit, My Jeep is a 2006 with 110k DEALER SERVICED miles... I just bought it a few weeks ago and had always made a noise during cold startup, plus hesitation after a shift occasionally... As we know the factory unit is crap, and other riggings are less than ideal (in my mind). I will be picking up my Dorman 689-201 unit TOMORROW and installing TOMORROW.

Dorman supposedly FIXED the issues associated with the factory OPDA, the brass bushings ('Oillite' bushings???) and no top seal look to be the method of fixing. From the millions of pages, this could be a winner!

I will report on my findings tomorrow when i finish and as time goes on... I feel confidant in this part, and hope I don't have to deal with this OPDA drama again.

NOW, I am assuming my drive gears will be OK as the shaft spins freely, just makes a little noise at startup. Crossing my fingers anyways.

If you all have any questions, feel free to ask. as a side note, I am thinking of pre-lubing by dunking the unit in oil so oil can seep to the bushings, then applying assembly grease to the splines of the gear. Looks like an easy swap, spin motor till holes in OPDA lines up, place plastic pin to be DEAD ON BALLS accurate, remove unit, place pin back in new unit and slap her in, of course unplug the battery to avoid codes and allow for a relearn after first start up...

Also Fellas, these come with a lifetime warranty, so, they turn out to be garbage, just 20min swap each time till they or WE get it right...

Wish me luck, hope this turns out to be a real fix! Otherwise ill be taking a 1999 distributor, and fusing it to another OPDA :-P

__________________
2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, Silver, 6 Speed, Dorman OPDA, Silverstar Sealed Beams, STOCK Everything Else (This List Will Grow!)
ericshere03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2013, 05:22 PM   #4157
Bigbob
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 3,589
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericshere03 View Post
Dorman supposedly FIXED the issues associated with the factory OPDA, the brass bushings ('Oillite' bushings???) and no top seal look to be the method of fixing. From the millions of pages, this could be a winner!
Yup, I think it is a lot better than the stock unit

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericshere03 View Post
Looks like an easy swap, spin motor till holes in OPDA lines up, place plastic pin to be DEAD ON BALLS accurate, remove unit, place pin back in new unit and slap her in, of course unplug the battery to avoid codes and allow for a relearn after first start up...
Just use the pin to make sure the holes are lined up before you loosen the bolt. Ditto with re-install, just put the pin in before you get the finally tightening of the bolt complete. I say this as getting the bolt in and out is easier with the housing turned clockwise a bunch. The hardest part on the install is getting at that bolt and getting it back in. Frustrating. If you have the stock air cleaner you may want to pull it. Makes a lot more room and easy to pull. I wouldn't worry about disconnecting the battery or throwing codes.
__________________
2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
Bigbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2013, 05:52 PM   #4158
Fargo
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 2,991
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericshere03 View Post

Dorman supposedly FIXED the issues associated with the factory OPDA, the brass bushings ('Oillite' bushings???) and no top seal look to be the method of fixing. From the millions of pages, this could be a winner!
:
Does the SG mod use the same bushings as the Dorman unit? Also does the SG mod maintain the top seal? Or is the top seal irrelevant since it uses a sealed bearing on top?
__________________
2005 Rubicon Unlimited Sahara Limited Edition #41
6spd manual

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
...there's very little that is more permanent than a temporary solution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oman Jeep
Go with quality and cry once. Go cheap and cry often. Take your pick ;)
LJ Owners Group member #110
Fargo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2013, 05:59 PM   #4159
ericshere03
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sandy Eggo, CA
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargo View Post
Does the SG mod use the same bushings as the Dorman unit? Also does the SG mod maintain the top seal? Or is the top seal irrelevant since it uses a sealed bearing on top?
I don't think his bushings are the same, as mentioned (but maybe incorrect) his bushings are brass, the Dorman are Oillite brass, apparently they are impregnated with a lubricating material bother upper and lower... For the sake of argument they are both brass... the upper is irrelevant as he uses a sealed bearings, from the looks of the part number on his bearing it is the same bearing used in the tensioner pulley... Overkill for this app, but not in a bad way at all...

One thing that puzzles me, is why didn't they make the dorman with the swirly grooves in the shaft to pull oil up to the hearings and add a seal of some sort on top of the top bushing... Prolly counting pennies in the machine work to have it done. also IF there isn't a bushing in the dorman unit as is, what keeps the oil from seeping out over time ? I think I will be answering my own questions as this unit is so new, lol ...
__________________
2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, Silver, 6 Speed, Dorman OPDA, Silverstar Sealed Beams, STOCK Everything Else (This List Will Grow!)
ericshere03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2013, 06:08 PM   #4160
Fargo
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 2,991
So what made you choose the Dorman over the SG mod?
__________________
2005 Rubicon Unlimited Sahara Limited Edition #41
6spd manual

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
...there's very little that is more permanent than a temporary solution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oman Jeep
Go with quality and cry once. Go cheap and cry often. Take your pick ;)
LJ Owners Group member #110
Fargo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2013, 06:19 PM   #4161
ericshere03
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sandy Eggo, CA
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargo View Post
So what made you choose the Dorman over the SG mod?
Bearings still dry up and dorman unit relys on engine oil if engine oil runs out I have bigger issues, easier to swap unit over buying dealer part and modifying, lifetime warranty just in case, FREE (dealer I bought jeep from covered it), curiosity...

The part was 320 from oreilly but was free for me because I got my dealer to cover it. it if was coming out of my pocket, i would buy a MOPAR one, take it to a machine shop and have them groove the shaft for oil distribution, install 2 brass bushings with the top bushing grooved on the shaft and bushing for an oring ...
__________________
2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, Silver, 6 Speed, Dorman OPDA, Silverstar Sealed Beams, STOCK Everything Else (This List Will Grow!)
ericshere03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2013, 06:24 PM   #4162
ericshere03
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sandy Eggo, CA
Posts: 28
Kind of stupid that I have a Datsun 280zx Turbo with 350k miles on stock turbo and optical distributor\oil pump drive and still drove great, But jeep can totally screw up this MAJOR part... Also what happened to brass gears ? why destroy cam AND distrubutor gear with steel on steel, make the easily replaceable part weaker so that it can be easily swapped without damaging the rest of the engine, personally I font have the cash for a stroker if this OPDA kills my motor...
__________________
2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, Silver, 6 Speed, Dorman OPDA, Silverstar Sealed Beams, STOCK Everything Else (This List Will Grow!)
ericshere03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2013, 06:51 PM   #4163
rekkitralf
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: riverside, ca
Posts: 31
Ok, I searched but missed it. Where does one buy the stripperguy mod? Didnt find any info in his profile.
rekkitralf is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2013, 06:52 PM   #4164
ericshere03
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sandy Eggo, CA
Posts: 28
Easy to miss, i think you contact him directly...
__________________
2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, Silver, 6 Speed, Dorman OPDA, Silverstar Sealed Beams, STOCK Everything Else (This List Will Grow!)
ericshere03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2013, 09:30 PM   #4165
surfcat2000
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Parowan Utah
Posts: 114
I put a new dorman in today and will change out the stripper guy opda gear and compare the wear on both after 1000 miles. I like the bearing idea on the sg but I just wonder about it not having the 1/16 (or what ever it is) up and down end play on the shaft. Thats the only downside I can think of but they both have the same amount of back and forth play on the wheel. I'm just curious. Jeff
surfcat2000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-10-2013, 08:24 AM   #4166
Fargo
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 2,991
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericshere03 View Post
Bearings still dry up and dorman unit relys on engine ...
I do have some concerns about if that bearing will run dry. Should this be a concern? How long can a bearing like this run without needing grease? Although it seems a dry bearing would be better than the dry bushing Mopar used. Also, I didn't see how Dorman is getting the oil to the top bushing. Without groves in the shaft to draw the oil up, wouldn't the SG mod bearings be getting about the same lube as the Dorman bushing. It would seem to me that as long as the bearings are sealed, they will maintain their lube. Right? But if the seals dry out they would get lube from the engine oil same as the Dorman right? Doesn't the SG mod remove the top oil seal and rely on the bearings for the seal? So if the seals went bad the bearing would be exposed to the engine oil right? Or am I all mixed up. Of course this would only work if the seal exposed to the oil side went bad.

If that is correct wouldn't that make the SG mod the better choice? (Obviously Eric had an easy choice since the dealer purchased his Dorman unit) Or is the Dorman unit a better choice?

I will be interested to hear surcats analysis. I didn't realize the SGmod didn't have that up/down play. I too wonder how that will affect things.
__________________
2005 Rubicon Unlimited Sahara Limited Edition #41
6spd manual

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
...there's very little that is more permanent than a temporary solution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oman Jeep
Go with quality and cry once. Go cheap and cry often. Take your pick ;)
LJ Owners Group member #110
Fargo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-10-2013, 08:49 AM   #4167
Bigbob
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 3,589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargo View Post
I do have some concerns about if that bearing will run dry. Should this be a concern? How long can a bearing like this run without needing grease?
A slow running low load bearing like that should run forever. Remember, at 60-70 MPH the bearing is only spinning at 1400-1500 RPM and the load is small. Consider something like a home air conditioner fan. They run for years on a small bearing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargo View Post
Doesn't the SG mod remove the top oil seal and rely on the bearings for the seal? So if the seals went bad the bearing would be exposed to the engine oil right? Or am I all mixed up. Of course this would only work if the seal exposed to the oil side went bad.
Yes, the stock top oil seal should be removed. Oil vapor from the engine will indeed reach the SG ball bearing. And even though the bearing is a sealed unit that hot oil vapor will get in. I know this as I tried my flow through system with the SG mod and pressurized oil did work it's way through the bearing. And even if the bearing gets zero engine oil it has enough grease in it to last the life of the Jeep. If the bearing does go dry and start to get noisy it can be replaced for about $10.00-$15.00 and it is an easy to find common bearing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargo View Post
I didn't realize the SGmod didn't have that up/down play. I too wonder how that will affect things.
It probably should have no effect if mounted as per instructions, but you can do a small mod and have the same click-clack end play as stock which I like.
__________________
2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
Bigbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-10-2013, 09:11 AM   #4168
Fargo
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 2,991
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
A slow running low load bearing like that should run forever. Remember, at 60-70 MPH the bearing is only spinning at 1400-1500 RPM and the load is small. Consider something like a home air conditioner fan. They run for years on a small bearing.
Good to know. Thats of some comfort.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Yes, the stock top oil seal should be removed. Oil vapor from the engine will indeed reach the SG ball bearing. And even though the bearing is a sealed unit that hot oil vapor will get in. I know this as I tried my flow through system with the SG mod and pressurized oil did work it's way through the bearing. And even if the bearing gets zero engine oil it has enough grease in it to last the life of the Jeep. If the bearing does go dry and start to get noisy it can be replaced for about $10.00-$15.00 and it is an easy to find common bearing.
Thats even better news. Unless the oil vapor entering the bearing breaks down the lubricant that was in there before and it causes it to drain out. But if the oil vapor continues to push through it shouldn't be an issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post


It probably should have no effect if mounted as per instructions, but you can do a small mod and have the same click-clack end play as stock which I like.
Yeah, I think I would like that too. I like to think that there are reasons for some of these things. But it might just be the nature of the bushing versus a bearing and have not benefit to the gears or oilpump at all. How do you introduce that slack and still have the bearing tight on the shaft and in the OPDA. Surly you don't want your bearing spinning on either of them.
__________________
2005 Rubicon Unlimited Sahara Limited Edition #41
6spd manual

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
...there's very little that is more permanent than a temporary solution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oman Jeep
Go with quality and cry once. Go cheap and cry often. Take your pick ;)
LJ Owners Group member #110
Fargo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-10-2013, 10:23 AM   #4169
Bigbob
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 3,589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargo View Post
How do you introduce that slack and still have the bearing tight on the shaft and in the OPDA. Surly you don't want your bearing spinning on either of them.
I attach the sleeve to the shaft via Loctite 640 retaining compound and lightly sand down the outer part of the sleeve so it fits into the bearing by hand. A snug fit, but the sleeve can slide in the bearing. No worries on the sleeve spinning in the bearing unless the bearing fails.

If you do this you'll want to set your end play first by using a dab of silicon on the sleeve to temporarily attach it to the shaft. A drop of super glue works good as well and you don't have to wait as long for it to dry. Sand the sleeve down so it snugly slides into the bearing by hand, no fair tapping with tools, it has to go by hand! Slide a 9/16" OD X 3/32" thick rubber o-ring over the shaft assembly to act as a spacer similar to the stock plastic washer. Assemble the unit and check the end play. If the end play is too much you can place the tang area of the shaft in a vise and using a socket that fits over the top part of the shaft tap the target wheel down until you get the end play you want. I am not even sure what the specs call for. I set mine at .025 or so. Once end play is set disassemble the unit again and clean up the sleeve and shaft and dry well and attach it with the Loctite 640. You should be able to slide the shaft up and down in the housing by hand. Click-Clack. Just like stock. BTW, I got my Loctite on Amazon in a small tube. It is hard to find in stores. Industrial bearing supply places usually have it but many times only in larger tubes/containers. A small tube will do 79 OPDA's! LOL
__________________
2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
Bigbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-10-2013, 10:35 AM   #4170
Bigbob
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 3,589
FYI End play is important on these OPDA's. The aluminum housing will expand at a different rate than the steel shaft when it heats up. I recently bought a brand new unit from a member here on the forum. It was still in the box. The end play on it was huge. It was like .080 or so I'd guess. So regardless if you retain your stock unit, buy a new stock unit or a Dorman, or modify your unit with the SG mod you want to see a bit of end play. You should be able to Click-Clack the shaft up and down in the housing .010-.030I'd say. Once the engine is started the shaft slides all the way to the top and the end play goes to zero. But that slight amount of end play you have will allow the housing to expand without putting excess side pressure on the thrust washer.
__________________
2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
Bigbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.