2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 268 - JeepForum.com
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post #4006 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 12:29 PM
GoHack
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Hi,

I'm thinking, or was thinking about buying an '06 Wrangler Unlimited until I heard about this issue w/the OPDA CPS Distributor failure.

Has Chrysler addressed this, and come out w/any permanent fix.

I've owned other model years of the Wrangler, and never had any issues w/them.

I'm also considering just buying a new '13 Wrangler as well, but the new 3.6L V6 engine that came out in '12 has it's own issues as well.

.

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post #4007 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoHack View Post
Hi,

I'm thinking, or was thinking about buying an '06 Wrangler Unlimited until I heard about this issue w/the OPDA CPS Distributor failure.

Has Chrysler addressed this, and come out w/any permanent fix.

I've owned other model years of the Wrangler, and never had any issues w/them.

I'm also considering just buying a new '13 Wrangler as well, but the new 3.6L V6 engine that came out in '12 has it's own issues as well.

.
Can't beat the LJ. IMHO it is a better Jeep than the new models. It does not get as good of fuel mileage but has a lot of things going for it.

If you do buy it just get the new Dorman OPDA or better yet the SG mod parts. You'll want to check how bad the unit is on the Jeep. If it is real bad you may need a new cam shaft. If possible you may want it checked before you buy.
Chrysler has no fix for it and won't.

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #4008 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 01:13 PM
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I got my flow through hooked up with the modified SG bearing. No leaks! But as you can see in the video it is flowing more than what I want. It runs about 10 ozs a minute. I need to find a really small drill bit to make a smaller orifice. I am guessing about 1/64th would work just right.


I like the idea of more oil to the gear. BTW, the video shows it running with a warmed up engine.

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
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6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #4009 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Can't beat the LJ. IMHO it is a better Jeep than the new models. It does not get as good of fuel mileage but has a lot of things going for it.

If you do buy it just get the new Dorman OPDA or better yet the SG mod parts. You'll want to check how bad the unit is on the Jeep. If it is real bad you may need a new cam shaft. If possible you may want it checked before you buy.
Chrysler has no fix for it and won't.

Have you a link for someone who has the Dorman OPDA in stock?

Thx


.
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post #4010 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoHack View Post
Have you a link for someone who has the Dorman OPDA in stock?

Thx


.
Nope. I heard Amazon has them.

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
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6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #4011 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 05:13 PM
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Nope. I heard Amazon has them.
Is the Doman a better design than the Chrysler one?

When replaced, how many miles approximately are they good for?

Is there ample warning when they need to be replaced?

Thx


.
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post #4012 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by GoHack View Post
Is the Doman a better design than the Chrysler one?

When replaced, how many miles approximately are they good for?

Is there ample warning when they need to be replaced?

Thx


.
The Dorman is basically the same design as the stock unit, but it uses proper bronze bushings and the way I understand it the mid mounted seal is void so oil can reach the upper bushing. The stock unit, which has never changed, uses steel bushings and the top bushing is sealed so no oil gets to it. This is the problem. If you pull your unit and the gear looks okay I'd say to go with the SG set-up as it is a really good fix that will last the life of the Jeep. It uses a bronze lower bushing and a sealed ball bearing at the top.

On some Jeeps the unit starts to make a noise we lovingly call "laughing monkey". This takes place usually when you start it up especially on a cold morning. Even if there is no noise the bushing and gear can be worn real bad.

How many miles are on the Jeep you are looking at? Is it a private sale?

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6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #4013 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
The Dorman is basically the same design as the stock unit, but it uses proper bronze bushings and the way I understand it the mid mounted seal is void so oil can reach the upper bushing. The stock unit, which has never changed, uses steel bushings and the top bushing is sealed so no oil gets to it. This is the problem. If you pull your unit and the gear looks okay I'd say to go with the SG set-up as it is a really good fix that will last the life of the Jeep. It uses a bronze lower bushing and a sealed ball bearing at the top.

On some Jeeps the unit starts to make a noise we lovingly call "laughing monkey". This takes place usually when you start it up especially on a cold morning. Even if there is no noise the bushing and gear can be worn real bad.

How many miles are on the Jeep you are looking at? Is it a private sale?
Is the SG a mod to the stock unit?

It's got 106K, which is nothing for a Jeep, but from the pictures, the body is in mint condition. I'm planning to go look at it Tuesday or Wednesday at a Ford Dealership.

.
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post #4014 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 07:14 PM
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Hey Gohack...........Try RockAuto.com part number 689201
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post #4015 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 08:08 PM
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Hey Gohack...........Try RockAuto.com part number 689201
So the new OPDA the dealer is installing on Thursday...is it the new OPDA or original design? They are also replacing the CAM.

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post #4016 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Fusco View Post
So the new OPDA the dealer is installing on Thursday...is it the new OPDA or original design? They are also replacing the CAM.
Chrysler never changed the design. The Dorman unit is aftermarket.

What I would do after getting it back is park it until I got a stripperguy bearing kit, then install that ASAP and move on from there.

Chris
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post #4017 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 10:20 PM
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So the new OPDA the dealer is installing on Thursday...is it the new OPDA or original design? They are also replacing the CAM.
No, I don't own the vehicle yet. I'm going to go look at it.

Trying to make up my mind about either buying it, a new one, or just forgetting about it.


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post #4018 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 10:29 PM
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No, I don't own the vehicle yet. I'm going to go look at it.

Trying to make up my mind about either buying it, a new one, or just forgetting about it.


.
Have you started it yet?

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #4019 of 5527 Old 11-26-2012, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Have you started it yet?
It probably won't be until Wednesday before I can get to check it out.

When I start it up, what should I listen for, a squealing noise around the OPDA?

Oh, I did find out that the Jeep comes from Canada, if that makes any difference, other than for the speedometer being in kilometers per hour vs. miles per hour and there being no Carfax on it. The local Ford dealer bought it at auction. I would imagine that it must be in excellent shape for them to buy it.


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post #4020 of 5527 Old 11-27-2012, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Chrysler recommends 10w30. Over the years, ZDDP has been reduced from common oils. Even oils with higher ZDDP 10 years are likely subpar now. That is why when someone brings up and older oil like a Rotella that has been know to have high levels of ZDDP, I am skeptical. Only a current oil analysis can be conclusive.

The flat tappet of the I6 has been replacement or redesigned in some way with newer engines so ZDDP wasn't has important. With the I6 (an old engine) it would be a good idea to run a higher ZDDP oil.

I'm not going to say it will fix the gear wear. I doubt it will. But ZDDP is a wear inhibitor so why not? I'm no expert, but IMO the VR1 and M1 TDT seem to be good oils.

Regarding the two issues here is my simple logic. If you reduce binding in the OPDA shaft and add a wear inhibitor like ZDDP, you are improving the life of your OPDA and engine. You will need to spend a few hours and a minor amount of money to fix the binding and you will need to spend a little extra on oil. This is a no brainer.

I am perfectly willing to change an OPDA gear on occasion. Moving parts will wear. I was more concerned with the shaft binding. The designs in this thread do a great job preventing that.

Instead of, or in additional to using a high zinc oil, what about adding a moly additive to your oil when it comes to cutting wear?


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