2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 26 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > TJ Wrangler Technical Forum > 2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure

Black Friday- Cyber Monday Deals at jeepHutBlack Friday Deals !JcrOffroad Black Friday Sale!

Reply
Unread 02-03-2011, 08:40 PM   #376
Jeffro06
October 2012 TJOTM
 
Jeffro06's Avatar
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Total, Confusion
Posts: 9,814
Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I doubt it's the oil or the block heater. Mine didn't squeal for 5 years with regular oil and no heater. When you say cam gear you're referring to the oil pump drive gear?
Yep. All I know is it started squealling like a stuck pig when it got cold out. Since then I've did the oil swap, had the drive gear swap done on Chrysler's dime, and started plugging it in on these colder than cold nights.

It could just be dumb luck that it decided not to squeal anymore. I'm not obsessing about it like I did when it first started, but I'm trying to be prepared if it comes back.

__________________
Member of JGW (Jeff's Gone Wheeling) and IndyORV
My Old YJ Build My Mods My YouTube Channel

Moab Trails I've done: Onion Creek, Long Canyon, Dome Plateau, Top of The World (2), Fins-N-Things (2), Poison Spider,
Golden Spike, Gold Bar Rim, Hell's Revenge (2), Baby Lion Back, Cliff Hanger, Moab Rim, Kane Creek Canyon, Strike Ravine

Shortcuts to key points in my build: MTRk's OME 2" HD Lift Antirock Skidrow steering box & radiator skids LoD rear bumper
Rokmen Mercenary bumper w/Superwinch Rokmen sliders Skidrow engine skid Rampage Top CB set up
Custom trunk Rokmen 1" Billet spacers JJ track bar Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms Currectlync Steering
Rokmen Trail Corners Metalcloak Overlines Kentrol Hood Latches JK Turn Signals Xenon 4" Flat Flares Hood Decal Duratracs
Derale Tranny Cooler DieHard Factor 55 Thimble Ten Factory Front Chromo Shafts

Get your build sheet here.
Jeffro06 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 08:48 PM   #377
willydigger
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,570
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffro06 View Post
Yep. All I know is it started squealling like a stuck pig when it got cold out. Since then I've did the oil swap, had the drive gear swap done on Chrysler's dime, and started plugging it in on these colder than cold nights.

It could just be dumb luck that it decided not to squeal anymore. I'm not obsessing about it like I did when it first started, but I'm trying to be prepared if it comes back.
You've read the posts and I'm sure you understand everything. There was nothing done to the upper bushing so the squeal/binding will be back (hopefully, meaning you'll have warning). Get the new OPDA and make sure to do something to lubricate the upper bushing. Maybe the bushing is just going bad and the heater is preventing it from getting cold enough to cause clearance problems.
__________________
WHODEY
willydigger is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 08:55 PM   #378
Jeffro06
October 2012 TJOTM
 
Jeffro06's Avatar
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Total, Confusion
Posts: 9,814
Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
You've read the posts and I'm sure you understand everything. There was nothing done to the upper bushing so the squeal/binding will be back (hopefully, meaning you'll have warning). Get the new OPDA and make sure to do something to lubricate the upper bushing. Maybe the bushing is just going bad and the heater is preventing it from getting cold enough to cause clearance problems.
Yep, read them, understand them, but can't do anyting until I get new OPDA, which doesn't seem to be anytime soon.

__________________
Member of JGW (Jeff's Gone Wheeling) and IndyORV
My Old YJ Build My Mods My YouTube Channel

Moab Trails I've done: Onion Creek, Long Canyon, Dome Plateau, Top of The World (2), Fins-N-Things (2), Poison Spider,
Golden Spike, Gold Bar Rim, Hell's Revenge (2), Baby Lion Back, Cliff Hanger, Moab Rim, Kane Creek Canyon, Strike Ravine

Shortcuts to key points in my build: MTRk's OME 2" HD Lift Antirock Skidrow steering box & radiator skids LoD rear bumper
Rokmen Mercenary bumper w/Superwinch Rokmen sliders Skidrow engine skid Rampage Top CB set up
Custom trunk Rokmen 1" Billet spacers JJ track bar Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms Currectlync Steering
Rokmen Trail Corners Metalcloak Overlines Kentrol Hood Latches JK Turn Signals Xenon 4" Flat Flares Hood Decal Duratracs
Derale Tranny Cooler DieHard Factor 55 Thimble Ten Factory Front Chromo Shafts

Get your build sheet here.
Jeffro06 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 09:17 PM   #379
willydigger
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,570
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffro06 View Post
Yep, read them, understand them, but can't do anyting until I get new OPDA, which doesn't seem to be anytime soon.

Just think of how exciting it will be when they do show up!
__________________
WHODEY
willydigger is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 09:46 PM   #380
ChaseB
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 1,598
Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Just think of how exciting it will be when they do show up!
Can't decide if I want to use mine for the Jeep or use it for a nice display piece for the mantel
__________________
[B]1984 CJ-7[/B] Renegade
[B]2005 TJ X [/B](daily driver)
ChaseB is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 09:52 PM   #381
NextJeep
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 322
Is there any reason not to just mod the unit I have? I have no symptoms, and have ordered the Aeroshell grease.
As soon as the Aeroshell gets here I was planning to mod the unit I have. I keep seeing how many folks are waiting for a new unit to mod... any reason not to mod the working unit in my 05 TJ? BTW, I paid $20 for that Aeroshell grease Willy. Are you sure you and FOG didn't buy a little Shell stock before starting this whole mess?
NextJeep is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 09:55 PM   #382
ChaseB
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 1,598
Quote:
Originally Posted by NextJeep View Post
Is there any reason not to just mod the unit I have? I have no symptoms, and have ordered the Aeroshell grease.
As soon as the Aeroshell gets here I was planning to mod the unit I have. I keep seeing how many folks are waiting for a new unit to mod... any reason not to mod the working unit in my 05 TJ? BTW, I paid $20 for that Aeroshell grease Willy. Are you sure you and FOG didn't buy a little Shell stock before starting this whole mess?
Pull your unit and check for binding, also taking the unit apart and checking the bushing and shaft for damage and scoring would be a good idea. But you should be fine to do the mod on your existing unit. The gear would also need to be inspected. I got my grease at sky geek for 14, it was over 20
After shipping though
__________________
[B]1984 CJ-7[/B] Renegade
[B]2005 TJ X [/B](daily driver)
ChaseB is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 10:00 PM   #383
lumpster
Web Wheeler
 
lumpster's Avatar
2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: kansas City MO
Posts: 4,674
Not that im adding anything revolutionary, but i did the fogmod. It wasnt that mine was making noise, but im about 2500 miles away from being out of warranty, so i wanted to check on the drive gear and cam. They are both in great shape (mobil 1 10-30 synthetic its whole life) I did have some slight galling on the upper bushing and shaft. I took it all apart, drilled and tapped it for a grease zerk, polished the shaft with some norton diamond compund to a mirror finish and put it all back in. I dont notice a difference, but i have some piece of mind. Ill be taking it apart this weekend to see how it all held up this week and to clean out the non moly grease so i can pack it full of valvoline palladium NLGI2 http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/Palladium.pdf

Its doesnt have as high a moly content, but ive done alot of looking and it seems that 3% moly is about as much as it takes to get the full benefit of moly. Also its so much cheaper at napa, i think it was 4 bucks for the tube. The jeep grease that was in the OPDA was very pasty, almost like it had paper fibers in it. I highly doubt it was as good a grease as the palladium, let alone aeroshell 33ms.

Ill post pics tomorrow.

Thanks for the great writeup
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Don't ask me to repeat or remember those prices, I may be grumpy tomorrow and either double them or quit altogether.



Want to STOP?

Edited
lumpster is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 10:01 PM   #384
NextJeep
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 322
I bought mine the same place, $8.00 to ship one tube of grease. Just trying to give Willydigger a hard time...
I am planning to pull that sucker as soon as the grease comes in and mod it up. I will post pics when I do, and get feedback on wear.
NextJeep is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 10:11 PM   #385
lope
Member
 
lope's Avatar
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chandler, Oklahoma
Posts: 476
Quote:
Originally Posted by lumpster View Post
I highly doubt it was as good a grease as the palladium, let alone aeroshell 33ms.
I think any grease between the shaft and bushing will be fine, definitely better than no lube which results from the factory design.
lope is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 10:11 PM   #386
willydigger
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,570
The Aeroshell was FOG's suggestion.
__________________
WHODEY
willydigger is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 10:17 PM   #387
willydigger
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,570
Quote:
Originally Posted by lope View Post
I think any greashe between the shaft and bushing will be fine, definitely better than no lube which results from the factory design.
Cheap grease will get dry and sticky. It will break down and cause more harm than good. I tried Mobilith 220 and the shaft didn't look so good. The pics are on the results section of the first page. The Aeroshell is thin and stinky. I think we all know how good stinky grease will perform.
__________________
WHODEY
willydigger is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 10:32 PM   #388
solarpower
Registered User
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 1,419
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFog View Post
Here is the poop with timing the OPDA.

However if the OPDA is close but still outside 15 degrees + or - of where it should be the computer will notice it once you get above 2000 RPMs and will throw a check engine light.

Now for the good news, the computer is designed to be able to tolerate, notice and correct for up to 15 degrees +/- of the where the OPDA should be. If your under the 15 degrees the computer will realize it and make a correction much like we see with short and long term fuel trims.


As far as buying a "code scanner" that will give you live data so you can set the OPDA be prepared to open your wallet. To set the OPDA you must have a tool that can actually talk to the computer and request it to perform tests, not just live data. The scan tool/computers that can do this much have a "instruction set" for specific auto maker IE a Toyota set, a Chrsler set, Ford set, ETC.

Scan tools that have this ability like the snap on MODIS are in the thousands of dollars range.


So as long as your not throwing a check engine light your timing is with-in spec and your not going to gain anything by getting your OPDA spot on zero. And when you pay Chrysler to do it they are not zeroing it either, they are just getting it with-in on the DRB-III and locking it down.


FOG
I was under the impression that the smaller (older style units) needed to be within 2 or 3 degrees...I can tell you that my MPG has changed quite a bit on my April built 2004 model (small/older).. and my good friends (2004 october built newer style) equally compared friend threw a code and his was fine next day back to normal MPG. Older computer readings???



Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Unless there is a substantial failure, I don't think the camshaft gear needs to be changed. The OPDA gear is the wear gear by design so that it wears first (and worse) than the camshaft gear.

Otherwise a modded OPDA should be fine.
I agree...even though you are a Bungals fan living in Ratbird land..Go Steelers

Quote:
Originally Posted by grnberet2b View Post
As far as the ODPA goes - your '03 will not be affected. The design changed at the end of the 2004 model year, giving 2005 and 2006 TJs the new OPDA with the flaws.
Correct. So make sure people know actual build dates could be from 8-2004 (although should be titled 2005+) to end of production. Front of door jam driver side has build date sticker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
UPDATE

Well I received a used OPDA today that was found by lope on eBay. Unfortunately it's in pretty bad shape and I don't feel comfortable having it modified.

Yuck. I would not either.


Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I 100% agree. Don't do anything crazy until you look it over really good. These things are hard to come by and if it's just a matter of cleaning it up, you may want to reconsider "practicing" on it.
agree again..

Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
That's what my original did. I would expect to see some type of sludge or varnish on the shaft like the one Lope had.

If you're not comfortable doing it, don't. Aluminum is not forgiving.
Alum is very forgiving..no memory...replacing alum material by welding does suck though...kind of like some NFL receivers TV shows.



Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Is there any indication of heat on the upper bushing? What is the dark stuff on the upper bushing? Is it sludge or is the shaft discolored and scored?
That shaft sucks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
The red line makes sense. This is the dead spot in the shaft. The shiny spot below the arrow is the seal so I would expect the arrow to be in contact with the bushing. Normally the bushing and seal are right next to each other. This is generally the most worn spot on the upper bushing from the OPDA's I've seen. I'm surprised it is pitted. Can you look and see if the section in the housing is unusual?
I have looked under a microscope at a better shaft than that..that pitting is most likely the result of enough heat to change the hardness of that particular part of the shaft to point it becomes brittle enough to chip off and flake under friction. Shafts are not made from 1018 CRS for that kind of automotive application generally. 1018 (grade of steel) has a very slight added pitting for those that don't work with steel everyday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
You haven't tried sanding it yet right?
Sanding will only add to pitting and out of concentric the shaft will be in relation to bushing. From what I can tell those bushing are cast into that housing when initially formed so changing actual alignment is impossible. Trying to ream bushings already worn and holding .003 overall makes me giggle.

Ok now to the point of why I have been ragging on willydigger.....

I have a good OPDA to donate to someone that needs. Thanks to the time, effort, and good will of people posted here I'm going to send that unit to a person who needs it. Free of charge.



Catch is that Chase B sends that POS parts OPDA thing ( that are great pictures...my camera sucks but my good opda can be held up next to those pics) to a good home whether it be scrap metal or someone who can test the actual metallurgy of it.

oh and willydigger has to TYPE he will root for Steelers to win Super Bowl this Sunday in this thread...even if it's a lie.

This OPDA has 80,000 miles on it. The gear is worn like a normal 80,000 gear would wear if it was going to last over 200,000 miles. The shaft has very small rings near the top end of bushing and not enough wear to need any polishing.

I was given this OPDA with the hopes of doing some research on it, but my personal time has become more more scarce with the resources needed to pursue a total solution...especially considering that people are driving around that need one...and good people like willydigger, the fog, have spent many hours working on it...... and a great guy from WA state (home of Seattle Seahawks) sent me this OPDA.

This unit will need zerk installed..I could do it if needed but I was going to send unchanged for picture reasons...and again time to do mod at work is rare for near future. If by following fog's good instructions and using good tools no reason a competent person can't install a zerk.
__________________
04 TJ "U" package
06 XK Commaddy 4.7
solarpower is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 10:43 PM   #389
Zetto
Member
 
Zetto's Avatar
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 205
I still need to write up and post all the pictures from my FogMod last weekend.

Now that the mod is done I have a 14oz tube of Shell AeroShell 33ms I will never use in a lifetime. I will gladly let ANYONE in the Los Angeles area who is doing the FogMod take some grease so they do not have to also order a lifetime supply.
Zetto is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2011, 10:50 PM   #390
TheFog
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Galveston, Texas
Posts: 476
The AeroShell far exceeds any grease you can buy off the shelf in auto parts store and is well worth the money. The shipping is a touch high but it give you incentive to buy a couple of tubes at a time. If you have a Warn winch its the spec grease for the planetary gears.

On a side note I was going to pull my OPDA and inspect it but before I did I was curious if greasing it with the motor running makes any difference. So I greased it with the engine idling and pull it out. What I noticed is that the grease is much more uniformly disspersed all up and down the upper bushing as opposed most of it at the bottom half that we see when lubing it with the engine off.

The slow pumping with the OPDA shaft spinning at idle speed allows the grease to creep up the shaft as opposed to taking the path of lease resistance and going out the seal and entering the chamber between the top and bottom bushings.

Which brings me to another discovery/point. If you go nuts with greasing the OPDA with the engine off the grease will flow down past the seal and enter the 3 tubes that oil normally come up. With just 2-3 pumps this won't be a issue but I was curious if I just kept on pumping grease would it fill up the upper bushing and come out the OPDA tone wheel.

So the only way to really get the upper bushing really good and evenly coated is to slowly inject the grease while the engine is running.

NextJeep.. Don't have any stock in Shell, the only stock I own is Sirius sat radio (got it when the market tanked for $.05 a share and now its $1.80) so all you Sirius subscribers literally bough me a new house and paid off my Jeep
__________________
In memory of Samantha Sue 1998 to Dec-16-10 at 2:15PM. She may have had 4 legs and a tail but she was the best friend I ever had and helped me through some really tough times. I hope to see her again one day.
TheFog is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.