2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 255 - JeepForum.com

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post #3811 of 5452 Old 10-18-2012, 03:35 PM
jeep06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken12 View Post
I didn't think to make marks on the old one before I pulled it. When I went to install the new OPDA I wasn't sure how to line it up. Sure would have been nice to have marks on the old OPDA to transfer onto the new one. Oops... I followed the FSM installation procedures so it ended up at about 4 o'clock. It started, but gave me a P0016 code after a few minutes, which tells me the timing is off. It also won't rev above 3000 rpm, which again tells me the timing is off.
The one and only time (so far) I've pulled my OPDA was when I was ready to install a new one with the oil cup mod by Willerdigger. I simply rotated the engine over until the alignment holes lined up on the old OPDA unit (also made sure engine was on TDC using notches on damper), pulled the alignment pin from the new unit and installed it in the old one. So after pulling the old OPDA, I simply put the nylon pin back in the new OPDA, installed it and all was well. No codes and started up first time with no problems. I think this is about the best fool proof way to do it if you have a new OPDA going in since it has the nylon alignment pin. Hope this wasn't too confusing... it's really easy after you do it once.


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post #3812 of 5452 Old 10-18-2012, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken12 View Post
I just finished replacing the cam. Also put in a new SG mod OPDA. Now to drive it and verify it's fixed. But I have a question on the oil pump. I changed the oil and wanted to run the oil pump before starting the engine. So I made a shaft that fits the oil pump and my drill, then used the drill to spin the oil pump. The first few revolutions spun real easy, then I felt the drill bog down like the oil pump was working real hard. So I pulled the drill/shaft out and used a screwdriver to manually turn the oil pump. I could definitely feel resistance there. It wasn't hard to turn, just a firm resistance, more than I expected. I've never spun an oil pump manually, so I don't know if it's normal or not. Comments???
I have used this method many times to get the system primed. Yes the drill will definitely bog down when the pressure builds up & yes, the oil is cold so thicker than when hot but you see what the oil pump drive goes through every cold start up. That is what the gear is designed to do. No question the OPDAs add a lot of drag when the bushing gets dry & hot & starts binding. That, the gear is not designed for!
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post #3813 of 5452 Old 10-18-2012, 08:46 PM
Ken12
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ODPA question. Both my old OPDA and the new one have a bit of what I'll call rotational slop in the shaft when it's installed in the engine. I can rotate the top plate back and forth a bit, maybe 2-3 degrees. I can't move it laterally, just rotationally. It sounds and feels like the OPDA gear and the camshaft hear have a fairly loose tolerance, and it allows the shaft some movement. Is that normal? I'm guessing the answer is yes, but don't like guessing.
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post #3814 of 5452 Old 10-19-2012, 07:38 AM
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Ordered a set of crows foot wrenches, so hopefully I'll be able to get mine out. Been spraying the bolt with PB every time I'm under the hood, but the stupid 12 point wrench I had just wasn't doing it and the last thing I was to do is strip that bolt out...

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post #3815 of 5452 Old 10-19-2012, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken12 View Post
ODPA question. Both my old OPDA and the new one have a bit of what I'll call rotational slop in the shaft when it's installed in the engine. I can rotate the top plate back and forth a bit, maybe 2-3 degrees. I can't move it laterally, just rotationally. It sounds and feels like the OPDA gear and the camshaft hear have a fairly loose tolerance, and it allows the shaft some movement. Is that normal? I'm guessing the answer is yes, but don't like guessing.
Yes, that is normal.

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post #3816 of 5452 Old 10-19-2012, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroubleNEO View Post
Ordered a set of crows foot wrenches, so hopefully I'll be able to get mine out. Been spraying the bolt with PB every time I'm under the hood, but the stupid 12 point wrench I had just wasn't doing it and the last thing I was to do is strip that bolt out...
Try Kroil, it tends to work much better, just a bit harder to find. Thats all we use at work and I work on the ocean front on large steel sinking boats. (a very corrosive environment)

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post #3817 of 5452 Old 10-19-2012, 08:32 AM
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I agree about Kroil its amazing stuff

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post #3818 of 5452 Old 10-19-2012, 12:26 PM
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Okay did the SG mod easiest way to do it is to use a 9/16 tap for both bushings, then thread in a bolt and tap out the old bushing with a punch.
I ordered a new distributer and did the mod. I got an LDI unit and have to say is was quite pathetic. When I pulled the top bushing there was a dried up paper like consistency to the grease, almost powdery, I don't think that would have lubricated anything. Next question is who has the longest running SG modded distributer, time and mileage would be nice.
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post #3819 of 5452 Old 10-19-2012, 02:02 PM
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Had flying_bosun perform my SG mod because I didn't feel comfortable doing it. He has done others and I would recommend his services to anyone who is experiencing hesitation doing this procedure themselves.
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post #3820 of 5452 Old 10-19-2012, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandaman99701 View Post
Had flying_bosun perform my SG mod because I didn't feel comfortable doing it. He has done others and I would recommend his services to anyone who is experiencing hesitation doing this procedure themselves.
had him do my beta kit awesome guy

"always upgraded, never replaced."
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post #3821 of 5452 Old 10-21-2012, 07:46 AM
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Update. New camshaft and new OPDA with SG bearing mod kit installed. As others have experienced, I had a bit of binding after first installing the SG kit. That is gone after driving it a bit, the shaft now spins smoothly. Ran the engine for the 20-minute camshaft break-in, then drove it for 110 miles. I was expecting the OPDA gear to look new, but see some wear marks. Here's what the OPDA gear looks like now.
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OPDA New Gear at 110 miles (8) (Medium).JPG  
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post #3822 of 5452 Old 10-21-2012, 11:58 AM
derrick_ozzy
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So the opda has to be replaced to do any of these mods to fix the problem right??? Is there a way to mod current and change the damaged gear to fix the problem. I have never dealt with this problem and get rid of this turd,But i love it even though it's a money pit. I don't have any major machines,tools,skills,and i wana get this fixed asap. It takes a few days through local dodge dealers to get a new opda and there sayin 175 up. I know i'm askin a lot here quick easy simple.
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post #3823 of 5452 Old 10-21-2012, 12:11 PM
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No, replacement is not necessary. It depends on how bad your unit is. I had uneven & somewhat excessive gear wear (for 20k miles) & the beginning of the laughing monkey with some top bushing galling & discolored shaft from heat. I cleaned everything up, replaced the gear & added my oil cup mod & put it back in. So far no issues. In a month or so I will be changing the oil & will pull it for it's 2nd inspection but expect it to be good. Probably spent $40.
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post #3824 of 5452 Old 10-21-2012, 12:32 PM
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This what it looks like the gear i know needs to be replaced. Thanks rubi i'm afraid i'm gona have to be walked through anything with this.
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047 (800x600).jpg  
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post #3825 of 5452 Old 10-21-2012, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dandaman99701 View Post
Had flying_bosun perform my SG mod because I didn't feel comfortable doing it. He has done others and I would recommend his services to anyone who is experiencing hesitation doing this procedure themselves.
did you just send your opda to him or do you live by him? i might feel better having sombody with experience do it so i know its done right. ive contacted stripperguy and he said he should have my kit in about a week or so. i was going to just mod the old one but if i could have flying bosun do it i would just order a new one. let me know thanks
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