2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 240 - JeepForum.com

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post #3586 of 5484 Old 08-22-2012, 07:48 AM
sanmy1412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun

If its not too late, be sure to have them inspect/photo the cam gear. That's the ultimate concern.
Didnt get it done yesterday but doing it now. The mech just showed me the opda out if my engine.... spins fine with no abnormal wear on the teeth.... still hoing to install the new one.

Kinda strange... but when it was chirping you could feel it vibrating... when the chirping stopped the vibration went away

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post #3587 of 5484 Old 08-22-2012, 09:08 AM
flying_bosun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanmy1412

Didnt get it done yesterday but doing it now. The mech just showed me the opda out if my engine.... spins fine with no abnormal wear on the teeth.... still hoing to install the new one.

Kinda strange... but when it was chirping you could feel it vibrating... when the chirping stopped the vibration went away
While I can't say I've seen it, it's very possible to have a binding shaft and not the abnormal tooth decay. Did you Phil the roll pin and get to disassemble the shaft from housing and inspect the bushing-shaft interface?


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Paul
“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul
"Did you exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"
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post #3588 of 5484 Old 08-22-2012, 09:26 AM
sanmy1412
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Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
While I can't say I've seen it, it's very possible to have a binding shaft and not the abnormal tooth decay. Did you Phil the roll pin and get to disassemble the shaft from housing and inspect the bushing-shaft interface?
no, i havent done more than look at it.

back at work now, so i will take it apart when i get home tonight if its not to late.

i got the lecture from the stealership about it being fine and not needing to be replaved etc etc, should have done a proper diagnosis and yada yada.

nice guys, but they still porked on the labor, which i figured, but i am more than happy to have some piece of mind with a brand new unit in.

looking forward to the morning though to see if it happens again.

when you say 'Phil the roll pin'... i'm not familiar... what do you mean by that?
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post #3589 of 5484 Old 08-22-2012, 11:22 AM
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I checked my OPDA gear and it was pretty worn. It had already been replaced at least once because the gear was double drilled. I couldn't see the cam gear very well but it didn't look too bad.
I bought a 2004 OPDA to steal the gear. With only 250 miles on it the sel light is back on and all that goes with it. I pulled it and it's already worn.
It looks like I'm gonna do a cam change... I have a brand new 05 OPDA and I'm on the list for the stripper mod. Other than cam, lifters, timing set, and gaskets is their anything else I should change while I'm in there? It has 85,000 miles on it. Is there a good source for parts? Will an aftermarket cam work as far as smog and ECM compatibility?

One last question. When my engine acts up so does the speedo? I haven't heard any other mention of this?
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post #3590 of 5484 Old 08-22-2012, 04:11 PM
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any trick to getting a stuck opda out? iv got the bolt out, iv tried a little heat, and a little prying but she wont budge
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post #3591 of 5484 Old 08-22-2012, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by povchrisw View Post
any trick to getting a stuck opda out? iv got the bolt out, iv tried a little heat, and a little prying but she wont budge
Turn it as you pull... counter clockwise I think.
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post #3592 of 5484 Old 08-22-2012, 05:17 PM
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thanks.. already tried that.. got it out with an air chisel.. there was so much rust it was seized together.. cleaned it up and found alot of wear on the worm gear and bushings are sloppy... glad i found this thread before it was too late
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post #3593 of 5484 Old 08-23-2012, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanmy1412

no, i havent done more than look at it.

back at work now, so i will take it apart when i get home tonight if its not to late.

i got the lecture from the stealership about it being fine and not needing to be replaved etc etc, should have done a proper diagnosis and yada yada.

nice guys, but they still porked on the labor, which i figured, but i am more than happy to have some piece of mind with a brand new unit in.

looking forward to the morning though to see if it happens again.

when you say 'Phil the roll pin'... i'm not familiar... what do you mean by that?
Should have rear "pull the roll pin" as in "disassemble the OPDA" and inspect the shaft and bushing. If you replaced the Opda and there's no problem with the shaft/bushing, then you wasted money. If on the other hand, it's shot, then 'techs' where you had it replaced are in the dark.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Paul
“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul
"Did you exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"
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post #3594 of 5484 Old 08-23-2012, 10:04 AM
sanmy1412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun

Should have rear "pull the roll pin" as in "disassemble the OPDA" and inspect the shaft and bushing. If you replaced the Opda and there's no problem with the shaft/bushing, then you wasted money. If on the other hand, it's shot, then 'techs' where you had it replaced are in the dark.
What's the easiest way to get the roll pin out?

And heres an interesting one that makes me think replacing it was the right call...

My old unit spun freely by hand wgeb it came out... but it was only sqeakubg on start up in the morning. Abd the last few night's around here have been cooling off.

I got home late last night and was just playing with it a bit and it was still spinning fine. So i threw it in the fridge for about 45 minutes.... took it out and it was noticeably stiffer and i could feel it binding as u spun it... 'to late'......

Last edited by sanmy1412; 08-23-2012 at 04:16 PM.
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post #3595 of 5484 Old 08-23-2012, 11:30 AM
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You may want to edit your last sentence before someone uses it as their sig line.
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post #3596 of 5484 Old 08-23-2012, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
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You may want to edit your last sentence before someone uses it as their sig line.


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post #3597 of 5484 Old 08-23-2012, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanmy1412 View Post
What's the easiest way to get the roll pin out?

And heres an interesting one that makes me think replacing it was the right call...

My old unit spun freely by hand wgeb it came out... but it was only sqeakubg on start up in the morning. Abd the last few night's around here have been cooling off.

I got home late last night and was just playing with it a bit and it was still spinning fine. So i threw it in the fridge for about 45 minutes.... took it out and it was noticeably stiffer and i could feel it binding as u spun it.
With colder weather coming there are likely to be more “laughing monkeys” out there. It typically has been on cold startups that the monkey rears its ugly head & sounds off. Once warmed up it usually subsides.

As for the roll pin, use a 3/16” punch or something like that to drive the pin out. Even a simple nail with the point ground flat will work. BE SURE TO MARK THE GEAR BEFORE REMOVAL. It looks like it can go on either way but the hole is offset slightly & driving the pin back in with the gear 180º out will break the gear with little force!! To be sure, slide a 3/16” drill bit through the gear/shaft before installing the pin. If the bit passes through, you know the pin will as well.

(Quote edited for Slugger)
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post #3598 of 5484 Old 08-23-2012, 02:08 PM
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You may want to edit your last sentence before someone uses it as their sig line.
...

Too late

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post #3599 of 5484 Old 08-23-2012, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fingers302 View Post
...

Too late
You bum, I wanted that!

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post #3600 of 5484 Old 08-23-2012, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
BE SURE TO MARK THE GEAR BEFORE REMOVAL. It looks like it can go on either way but the hole is offset slightly & driving the pin back in with the gear 180º out will break the gear with little force!!
Ditto. Simple method is to just mark the gear and the oil pump tang on one side with a hack saw. Just a good scratch is all you need.

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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