2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 227 - JeepForum.com
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post #3391 of 5390 Old 06-22-2012, 08:02 AM
BioTex
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Digger,
Everything in your above post is spot on IMO. However, I don't agree with the change drive gears part though because there just isn't a good prospect out there. The aftermarket ones are not a simple swap on job, and there is too great a chance that there could be some misalignment that will wipe out the cam.
Gear cut, hardness, quality control, too many things can go wrong.

The only gear I would swap in would be from a brand new OPDA, but at $125 each, not a viable option for everybody. Me personally, I plan to just swap out my OPDA every 40 - 50K or so. I'll pull it frequently and check the wear, and go from there.


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post #3392 of 5390 Old 06-22-2012, 08:19 AM
JustinCHorst
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
Digger,
Everything in your above post is spot on IMO. However, I don't agree with the change drive gears part though because there just isn't a good prospect out there. The aftermarket ones are not a simple swap on job, and there is too great a chance that there could be some misalignment that will wipe out the cam.
Gear cut, hardness, quality control, too many things can go wrong.

The only gear I would swap in would be from a brand new OPDA, but at $125 each, not a viable option for everybody. Me personally, I plan to just swap out my OPDA every 40 - 50K or so. I'll pull it frequently and check the wear, and go from there.
With a properly modded and cared for OPDA I think you/we will find that replacing them at that frequency will not be needed..just a hunch, but Ill be keeping an eye on mine.
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post #3393 of 5390 Old 06-22-2012, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinCHorst View Post
With a properly modded and cared for OPDA I think you/we will find that replacing them at that frequency will not be needed..just a hunch, but Ill be keeping an eye on mine.
I agree. I don't think the FogMod fixes the gear wear. When people contact me with those expectations I try to talk them down. The binding is the much bigger deal. A gear that wears away (granted at a faster rate than previous models) IMO is expected.

I do believe changes in oil type and regular intervals will help the gear wear. At some point I would expect to pull my OPDA and see more gear wear. The teeth are relatively thick and the gear is designed to be a wear part. We don't have anything conclusive to fix the gear wear. As the gear wears, there will be codes and warning. With binding you are playing Russian Roulette (maybe not that extreme but you get the point).

I'm excited to see what stripperguy has come up with. I think the brainstorming process between members has been the key to getting through this. Part support group, part engineering division. At this point, I'm extremely comfortable with my oil cup. I watch the thread more to keep the first page updated than I do looking for a solution.
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post #3394 of 5390 Old 06-22-2012, 11:31 AM
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Ah, here we go on oil again! LOL

My thoughts:

If you use a proper ACEA A3 oil you will have enough zinc. IMHO if you add 2 quarts of straight zinc it won't stop thew wear of the gear. I don't think the gear wear is due to oil specs, but the system may not get enough oil to the gear, but that may not be true either. The oil issue on these engines relates to the lifters and cam lobes mainly.

I think the gear wear is directly connected to the bushing bind. Spinning at 1200 rpm any binding of the bushing causes the load at the gear to increase dramatically. Even though you might spin the shaft easy by hand, that does not mean it don't bind.

I also think the actual engine block casting may be flawed on some engines to the point the gear backlash is wrong or at the wrong angle.

If what stripperguy is coming up with similar to what I envision in my engineering mind (with no tools in hand!) this will be the fix. I looked at doing the same sort of thing but my idea/design used bronze bushings. I contacted a bushing builder in Michigan but the cost was going to be prohibitive. We know the top bushing does not get proper lubrication and we also know the bushing material is all wrong. He addresses both those.

stripperguy may be a hero soon.

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post #3395 of 5390 Old 06-22-2012, 11:38 AM
Bigbob
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BTW, the load on the gear should be minimal. Look what it drives? Basically only the oil pump. Spinning that sensor wheel is a very small load. It's the bushing design boys. The basic "distributor" design, driving the oil pump and the ignition system or sensor wheel, has been around for 80 years. Not many failures before due to oil or whatever.

This is a bushing design failure.

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #3396 of 5390 Old 06-22-2012, 11:39 AM
Gary2
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check out stripperguys company site sometime , He can show ya how to make bearings last with no oil . I beleive he is part magician

My back up has landed . Sleep better tonight
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post #3397 of 5390 Old 06-27-2012, 07:15 PM
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I've made the switch to VR1 in my Jeep because of an oil leak I had with the Mobil 1 synthetic. For those of you running the VR1, how long are you going between oil changes?

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post #3398 of 5390 Old 06-27-2012, 07:30 PM
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I'm around 4,000
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post #3399 of 5390 Old 06-27-2012, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
I've made the switch to VR1 in my Jeep because of an oil leak I had with the Mobil 1 synthetic. For those of you running the VR1, how long are you going between oil changes?

I' around 4,000 every oil change with VR1, no oil leaks and 55,000 miles with the oil bath mod.
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post #3400 of 5390 Old 06-28-2012, 05:11 AM
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Those using the VR1, are you using the Dino version, or synthetic?
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post #3401 of 5390 Old 06-28-2012, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhopton
Those using the VR1, are you using the Dino version, or synthetic?
Dino

Gear-Calculator Stu Can Help You Part Names and Numbers Dealer Supplied Parts and ask for "Jeep Club" Prices


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post #3402 of 5390 Old 06-28-2012, 08:30 AM
locosdj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhopton View Post
Those using the VR1, are you using the Dino version, or synthetic?
Dino
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post #3403 of 5390 Old 06-28-2012, 11:14 AM
ChaseB
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Dino as well, stopped my rear main leak


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post #3404 of 5390 Old 06-28-2012, 08:06 PM
TJJP77
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Dino here too on the VR1...10W30

Chris
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post #3405 of 5390 Old 07-01-2012, 05:57 AM
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Dino VR-1 10W30 here to, change it every 3k mi.

2015 Cherokee Limited (granite) 4x4, 2.4L, 8.4AN, luxury group, wireless charge pad.
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