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Unread 06-21-2012, 05:06 PM   #3376
flying_bosun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gebirgziege View Post
Bio- what's your opinion of where I can get a new one...
What did you pay?
Link in my signature or call 1 (800) 428-0517. Have the part number ready and ask for "Jeep Club pricing". If there's any question about special pricing, ask for Mike V. Use this for nearly all new OEM parts. They've done great for me and I haven't found anywhere less expensive. ($125+/-)

Edit: P/N 53010624AC, $127.05

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Unread 06-21-2012, 06:03 PM   #3377
NH05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laredo-Alex
I´ve had an open recall on the OPDA which was done by FIAT the last week.

They´ve been not sure which OPDA was taken in my LJ because the sticker got lost. The recall was free for me (is free for everybody!!!!!), even the rental-car. I did it with 31` mls, even i had no "laughing monkey". now i´ve got one year guarantee on the work and two years on the parts.

You can check your open recall under jeep.com with your VIN!

They took the engine our of the LJ to do the rebuilt and now.......now i´ve got four errors and the engine-light is on => P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057 ..... all 4 O2-Sensors! they don´t find the mistake, all sensors are plugged in and ground (-) is there as well. the only thing is that there is not enough volts from the PCM ....... i think they took the plug from the pcm before they disconnect the battery and though blow the pc off.

here is no official dealer with could come and take a quick look ... but thats the problem of the fiat-dealer.

cross your fingers that they will find the mistake .... they can change all the parts untill they found what they´ve done wrong but believe me, i won´t pay anything!

Ok, not sure if I'm reading this right... Has Jeep has finally recalled these things and I can forget all I've read about Zerks, oil cups/ baths, grooves, etc and just schedule an appointment at a local dealer? Sounds too good too be true. Didn't find anything on the Jeep.com site except a site error when I tried to enter my VIN.
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Unread 06-21-2012, 06:11 PM   #3378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NH05 View Post
Ok, not sure if I'm reading this right... Has Jeep has finally recalled these things and I can forget all I've read about Zerks, oil cups/ baths, grooves, etc and just schedule an appointment at a local dealer? Sounds too good too be true. Didn't find anything on the Jeep.com site except a site error when I tried to enter my VIN.
They (Chrysler) haven't redesigned the OPDA if you do get one it will be the same as your original, and wear out because the didn't provide oil for the top half of the shaft. You still may have excessive lifter and cam lobe/gear wear.
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Unread 06-21-2012, 06:13 PM   #3379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gebirgziege View Post
Bio- what's your opinion of where I can get a new one...
What did you pay?

Should I mod the old one with a greaseable zerk?

Some guys are getting theirs replaced by factory. The local jeep stealership is kinda being @$$ hats about replacing free stuff after they did my cats.
Get a new one and do the oil cup or oil bath method of lubrication on it. The grease deal is good if you are in doubt of the condition of the seal. A new unit has a new seal. The black junk you are seeing is probably old grease that spooged up or possibly even seal material. Don't toss the old one as you may want to do the stripperguy modification once he gets that up and running. Screw the dealer. Be proactive and get it done right by yourself.

The actual gear wear looks normal as does the pump drive tang. Did you get a good gander at the cam gear?
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Unread 06-21-2012, 06:20 PM   #3380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NH05 View Post
Ok, not sure if I'm reading this right... Has Jeep has finally recalled these things and I can forget all I've read about Zerks, oil cups/ baths, grooves, etc and just schedule an appointment at a local dealer? Sounds too good too be true. Didn't find anything on the Jeep.com site except a site error when I tried to enter my VIN.
They don't do recalls unless it's something that could cause a sudden total failure that would or already has either caused death or injury due to the failure.

The current company that builds Jeep vehicles did not build your Jeep and has never built a OPDA or designed (or re-designed) a OPDA for your Jeep. They had the suppler build more of them to satisfy customers that bought Jeeps from the former Jeep company.

I think it a good idea to buy an extra OPDA and don't even open the box. Call it insurance.
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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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Unread 06-21-2012, 06:31 PM   #3381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
I think it a good idea to buy an extra OPDA and don't even open the box. Call it insurance.
This ^.
I don't really think these things are ever going to get cheaper, and possible more scarce. If the upcoming "stripper mod" works out, I'll definately purchase another new one, install the mod, and finally put this cluster **** to rest.
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Unread 06-21-2012, 06:40 PM   #3382
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There appears to be two issues at play here.

1. The bushing's lack of proper lubrication.

2. Premature gear wear due to... Poor gear metal quality???


***my question regarding the excessive gear wear is this- Will proper lubrication of bushing prevent the gear from premature wear, or will the bushing be fine with proper lubrication, yet the gear still wear prematurely?

In one sentence: What keeps excessive gear wear at bay?

Will it need to be hardened?
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Unread 06-21-2012, 06:48 PM   #3383
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The cam gear is supposed to be harder than the opda drive gear. You want the opda gear to wear before the cam. It does seem that they wear more than what I'm used to seeing, but they seem to last for 100k or more as long as the top bushing doesn't start tightening up.

The harder the opda is to spin, the more gear wear you will see. Also, the cam walking for and aft will wear the gear. Wrong gasket thicknes will wear it faster.

Some models of these TJs had a factory recall due to the gear meing too soft. A manufacturers defect. It will be replaced free under warranty only for certain serial numbered jeeps.
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1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
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Unread 06-21-2012, 06:49 PM   #3384
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And no I didn't get to take a gander at the camshaft gear. Dangit.
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Unread 06-21-2012, 06:55 PM   #3385
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So you're saying if the bushing does not restrict the opda's constrained rotational movement it will last years and years?
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Unread 06-21-2012, 07:00 PM   #3386
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[QUOTE=gebirgziege;13756566]
2. Premature gear wear due to... Poor gear metal quality???


***my question regarding the excessive gear wear is this- Will proper lubrication of bushing prevent the gear from premature wear, or will the bushing be fine with proper lubrication, yet the gear still wear prematurely?
[QUOTE]

Based on your pictures, you had a significant amount of wear at just 28k and since you have an 06, your engine was broken in with a lower ZDDP oil from the start. You may want to consider running a higher ZDDP oil, like one of the recommeded oils on the first page of this thread. It seems that running oils such as Valvoline VR1 or Mobil 1 TDT 5w40 may reduce the wear to the OPDA gear, which is the sacrificial gear.

Personally, I run Valvoline VR1 Racing 10w30 conventional oil on my 44k 2006 and love it so far. It has worked flawlessly so far while significantly reducing engine noise and it runs much smoother as well.
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Unread 06-21-2012, 09:42 PM   #3387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gebirgziege View Post
So you're saying if the bushing does not restrict the opda's constrained rotational movement it will last years and years?
It might, it might not. It's a crap shoot. Having no constrained rotational movement certainly help its longevity, but I think there are other factors involved also. A couple of them being using the correct oil, and correct oil change intervals.
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1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
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Unread 06-21-2012, 11:52 PM   #3388
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(It seems that running oils such as Valvoline VR1 or Mobil 1 TDT 5w40 "MAY" reduce the wear to the OPDA gear, which is the sacrificial gear.)

-does/ did chrysler jeep recommend such oils with a high zddp?
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Unread 06-22-2012, 06:16 AM   #3389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gebirgziege View Post
(It seems that running oils such as Valvoline VR1 or Mobil 1 TDT 5w40 "MAY" reduce the wear to the OPDA gear, which is the sacrificial gear.)

-does/ did chrysler jeep recommend such oils with a high zddp?

F Chrysler.



sorry just had to get that out
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Unread 06-22-2012, 08:06 AM   #3390
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Chrysler recommends 10w30. Over the years, ZDDP has been reduced from common oils. Even oils with higher ZDDP 10 years are likely subpar now. That is why when someone brings up and older oil like a Rotella that has been know to have high levels of ZDDP, I am skeptical. Only a current oil analysis can be conclusive.

The flat tappet of the I6 has been replacement or redesigned in some way with newer engines so ZDDP wasn't has important. With the I6 (an old engine) it would be a good idea to run a higher ZDDP oil.

I'm not going to say it will fix the gear wear. I doubt it will. But ZDDP is a wear inhibitor so why not? I'm no expert, but IMO the VR1 and M1 TDT seem to be good oils.

Regarding the two issues here is my simple logic. If you reduce binding in the OPDA shaft and add a wear inhibitor like ZDDP, you are improving the life of your OPDA and engine. You will need to spend a few hours and a minor amount of money to fix the binding and you will need to spend a little extra on oil. This is a no brainer.

I am perfectly willing to change an OPDA gear on occasion. Moving parts will wear. I was more concerned with the shaft binding. The designs in this thread do a great job preventing that.
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