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Unread 05-21-2012, 10:59 AM   #3211
RaggedOleMan
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In the 8th post of this thread (image above) you show how you drilled & tapped a hole for the zerk, to the right of where the factory grease port is. I don't understand why it's not better to drill & tap the original factory hole & drill through the bushing? Did I miss something?

EDIT: And install the grease zerk there, instead of in the new location.

~John/Puyallup, WA

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Unread 05-21-2012, 11:09 AM   #3212
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Is it because of how that area is oriented to the block i.e. inaccessible?
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Unread 05-21-2012, 11:10 AM   #3213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaggedOleMan View Post
In the 8th post of this thread (image above) you show how you drilled & tapped a hole for the zerk, to the right of where the factory grease port is. I don't understand why it's not better to drill & tap the original factory hole & drill through the bushing? Did I miss something?

EDIT: And install the grease zerk there, instead of in the new location.

~John/Puyallup, WA
Zerk where the factory plug is would be difficult at best to access with OPDA in standard orientation, I believe.
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Unread 05-21-2012, 11:13 AM   #3214
RaggedOleMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
Zerk where the factory plug is would be difficult at best to access with OPDA in standard orientation, I believe.
Thank you, that makes sense. So I have to ask, then why drill, tap & install the screw in that location in the first place? EDIT: Because of the fear that the pressure greasing will visit upon that plug? Concerns it might pop out?
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Unread 05-21-2012, 11:39 AM   #3215
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Originally Posted by RaggedOleMan View Post
Thank you, that makes sense. So I have to ask, then why drill, tap & install the screw in that location in the first place? EDIT: Because of the fear that the pressure greasing will visit upon that plug? Concerns it might pop out?
You have to remove the factory grease. This is done by removing the factory plug. Once removed you need to block it again. So you thread the existing port for the grub screw. The grub just acts as the cap. You drill the hole through the bushing at the factory spot so grease/oil will fill the reservoir instead of exiting though a hole at the zerk location.
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Unread 05-21-2012, 11:41 AM   #3216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaggedOleMan View Post
Thank you, that makes sense. So I have to ask, then why drill, tap & install the screw in that location in the first place? EDIT: Because of the fear that the pressure greasing will visit upon that plug? Concerns it might pop out?
Also, by drilling through the bushing in the area of the stock plug but not though at the new hole where the zerk will go allows the resevoir to fill with grease or oil if you use the oil cup.
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Unread 05-21-2012, 12:16 PM   #3217
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Do you guys foresee any trouble with installing a 90° Zerk in the factory hole?

EDIT: Yes, you could not rotate/screw the 90° Zerk into its new home...sorry...
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Unread 05-21-2012, 12:20 PM   #3218
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I think you should consider modding with oil instead. Is there any particular reason you don't want to follow the FogMod design?
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Unread 05-21-2012, 12:35 PM   #3219
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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
You have to remove the factory grease. This is done by removing the factory plug. Once removed you need to block it again. So you thread the existing port for the grub screw. The grub just acts as the cap. You drill the hole through the bushing at the factory spot so grease/oil will fill the reservoir instead of exiting though a hole at the zerk location.
Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I think you should consider modding with oil instead. Is there any particular reason you don't want to follow the FogMod design?
Yes there is. Among my unfounded concerns is the oil bath will essentially come into constant contact with CPS. That said, it's not clear to me that that would be problematic. Furthermore, the oil bath eliminates any possible venting & condensation can collect.

Another unfounded concern I have is that with the addition of the oil bath configuration, additional stresses can be visited upon the cast unit via excess leverage. The oil bath assembly essentially becomes a lever that can crack the housing. For example, if when changing oil you were to inadvertently bang it. Not sure I can defend either concern...

I can agree that an oil bath completely wipes out any maintenance issues, i.e. specifically remembering to grease it. In addition I like the idea that there is no concern with grease contaminating/sludging up the oil if indeed some grease does eventually migrate into the oil.

At the end of the day, I'm just trying to solve this problem, too. Hope I'm not being a P.I.T.A.
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Unread 05-21-2012, 12:50 PM   #3220
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If you don't mind grease, how about adding a flush needle zerk like pictured in the first page? This will keep everything out the way. You could also turn/re-clock the housing a bit to make the grub a little more accessible if you don't want to drill another hole. Most of this is just piece of mind. The oil cup isn't that fragile. The one's I'm doing now use a half bushing to keep the relatively length reduced.


Here is the oil cup for size reference.
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Unread 05-21-2012, 01:01 PM   #3221
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This is the the solution I'm currently planning to try. Simple & effective, just have to remember to grease it. Not a big deal for me, but perhaps for a future owner of my rig.

So, regarding the oil bath method, there's little or no concern about the CPS being in constant contact with the oil?
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Unread 05-21-2012, 01:10 PM   #3222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaggedOleMan View Post
...

This is the the solution I'm currently planning to try. Simple & effective, just have to remember to grease it. Not a big deal for me, but perhaps for a future owner of my rig.

So, regarding the oil bath method, there's little or no concern about the CPS being in constant contact with the oil?
I haven't used the oil bath. I suspect there may be venting issues, but otherwise it should work. Bigbob modded his that way. I think efm-7 may have done something similar, I think he was the originator. I can't see why it would be a problem, but without doing the mod and experiencing the problems, I'm not the best evaluator. You have to seal some holes and add some others.

I think the reason behind it was lack of oil cup parts availability. I think it's easier to buy the oil cup parts and follow the FogMod instructions. All said though the lubrication method internally is the same and I would consider both an improvement over grease.

If you do decide to do grease, get a grease similar to the Aeroshell. Do not use traditional all-purpose grease. Also do not over fill it since you can hydraulically bind the shaft. I over filled mine during the first run and couldn't turn the shaft at all! You only need a little. How much and how often are the difficult questions that make oil easier to deal with.
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Unread 05-21-2012, 02:12 PM   #3223
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did the oil bath on my new OPDA for now. I did install a vent in the cap just cause I think it needs to vent. I just drilled and threaded a 1/8" NPT hole in the cap and put a short nipple with a cap on it. I drilled a small hole in the cap and shoved some sponge material in the nipple with a dab of glue.

I only filled my housing with enough motor oil so it could run into the holes I drilled into the resevoir. At this "depth" the oil just touches the edge of the wheel. I see no issues with the wheel taking on a load from the oil.

Only issue I did see was I used allen head set screws to seal the 2 holes in the bottom of the housing sealed with blue locktite. They leak! I'll have to remove them and put some JB Weld on them to seal that off.

This mod is just as easy to perform as the Fog Mod. But I'd warn folks to only do this on a unit that you are sure the seal below the top bushing is good. If the seal is bad the oil will just run into the crankcase. But for folks buying a new unit it is what I'd consider the way to go.


There is a video of my bath mod on the first page of this thread.
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Unread 05-21-2012, 02:14 PM   #3224
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ROM, as far as I know the first oil bath was by dproctor. His setup is in the alternate design section on page 1. His CMP is completely submerged & he recently reported having no issues in all the time since his mod & has many miles on it as I recall. So I don't think the CMP cares a bit that it is in oil.

A couple of us with oil cups have added a brace to better secure the cup & maybe the best solution of all (my opinion) is the way lope did his. See below.
p8160180.jpg   lope.jpg  
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Unread 05-21-2012, 04:28 PM   #3225
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I bought a 1/4 x 28 - 30° Zerk, that I'm going to install. It "should" clear as it threads in, as long as the tapped hole is as low on that shoulder as possible. The 30° will give ample room for the grease gun. Yes, I tried for a flush fit Zerk I could access with a needle attachment, but after going to Fastenall, Tacoma Screw, Williams Oil Filter and 2 NAPA stores, and not finding one, I gave up and went with the 30° 1/4 x 28 Zerk. I'm going to install it on the old one as a model first, then into the new one if it all checks out.

That said, I'm not discounting the oil bath just yet. And, I would like to send a new shaft to one of you skilled & talented guys to machine in an oil groove for me. PM me with how much you want for it, or post up the charge/cost of machining if you want to. In the mean time, I'll live with the 30° Zerk. I'll keep checking this thread for continued updates. Thanks again, guys...

~John/Puyallup, WA
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