2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 213 - JeepForum.com
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post #3181 of 5448 Old 05-13-2012, 09:38 PM
Brainwashed2566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaggedOleMan View Post

Also, though the chirp has been evident for about 2-3 years, and the Jeep has 165k +/- on it, the wear didn't seem excessive to my untrained eye. Nonetheless, it's good I discovered the source of the chirp, bad that I broke the gear, good that replacements are on their way...
That shaft looks terrible, but its good to know that at least some unmodded OPDA's can last so long. I would suspect most would fail far before 165K, but that's just a guess.


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post #3182 of 5448 Old 05-13-2012, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaggedOleMan View Post
Well, I won't make that mistake twice! Knock on wood...Thanks ChicagoRod/John
Next time just mark the gear and tang on the shaft with a hack saw before you remove the pin. Makes life simple.

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post #3183 of 5448 Old 05-14-2012, 08:38 AM
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Sooo, anyone in AZ want to come on over and help me out?

I don't get how I'm supposed to put a new one in when you mark with a sharpie on the old?

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post #3184 of 5448 Old 05-14-2012, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ajmadic View Post
Sooo, anyone in AZ want to come on over and help me out?

I don't get how I'm supposed to put a new one in when you mark with a sharpie on the old?
Put the sharpie in your pocket and go to page one of this OPDA Bible and look for the video I posted on aligning the unit. Easy to do and fool proof.

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post #3185 of 5448 Old 05-14-2012, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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The first page is constantly updated with "member approved" info. Bigbob was kind enough to do a video showing the alignment pin/TDC method. This should help novice mechanics with the swap.
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post #3186 of 5448 Old 05-14-2012, 09:45 AM
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not to add more clutter to this thread but...

I just wanted to say thanks to willydigger for all of the help, very much appreciated!
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post #3187 of 5448 Old 05-14-2012, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -sean- View Post
I just wanted to say thanks to willydigger for all of the help, very much appreciated!
X2, same for BigBob and the others who've gone to such an extent to find remedy. Above & beyond. Thank you.
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post #3188 of 5448 Old 05-14-2012, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Put the sharpie in your pocket and go to page one of this OPDA Bible and look for the video I posted on aligning the unit. Easy to do and fool proof.
Very awesome, thanks dude.

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post #3189 of 5448 Old 05-14-2012, 07:06 PM
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I'm a little confused. Is there a break down of the exact steps that need to be taken in diagnosing this problem.

I don't mean the actual R&R procedure to replace the ODPA, but a step-by-step list of what to look for and what to replace in the case of a bad OPDA.

For example, I have a 2005 Unlimited built in January, 2005. It has just over 13K miles on it (I purchased it new and only use it during the nice weather months). I'm getting ready to get it out of storage in the next week or so. As of the last time I drove it (Dec., 2011), I have never experienced the laughing monkey noise.

After reading these posts, part of me is worried I should do something to prevent future engine failure. The other part thinks that since I haven't experienced any symptoms I should do nothing.

If I remove the OPDA and see wear (on the shaft and gear), then I replace it with a modded unit, right? If I see wear on the cam gear, do I need to replace the cam as well? Dang I hope not.

This vehicle is still covered under the 7/70 plan (it ends in July). Should I waste my time returning it to the dealer?

For oil I've been running Mobil 10W30 HM, but it seems like that's not a good choice anymore due to a reduction in ZDDP. I have always preferred synthetic oil due to the long periods it sits between uses. Even during the summer, I usually only put 1K-2K miles on it a year. Valvoline VR1 seems like a recommended choice, but is there a synthetic alternative available?

I guess after reading all of these posts I'm more confused on this subject than ever. I've seen where people have removed their ODPA to check the gear and shaft for wear, but not much on removing the cam or lifters for inspection. How many people with ODPA problems also have to replace their cam and lifters? While many people talk of replacing the ODPA, not many talk about the other parts.

I hope this doesn't come off as I'm rambling, but besides possibly pulling the ODPA to check for wear I have no idea what else to look for.

Thanks,
Tom

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post #3190 of 5448 Old 05-14-2012, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Tom,

In your case with 13K I wouldn't worry about the camshaft gear. We'll get that out of the way first. The OPDA gear is the wear gear so it is designed to wear faster since it's easier to repair.

The step by step goes like this:
Pull it and inspect. You're looking for binding of the shaft, unlikely at 13K and gear wear. Gear wear is an indicator of binding. If you have excessive gear wear, chances are at some point your OPDA will fail. Whether that means laughing monkey or catastrophic gear failure is unknown.

I would suspect you will show symptoms of binding and gear wear. You can try to have Chrysler fix it. This is highly unlikely though there are some who have successfully made Chrysler fix it. It is worth a shot. In my case the dealer played dumb so I will assume you will get no where.

The course of action after finding premature gear wear is to mod the existing OPDA or by new and start from scratch. In your case, again with only 13K, I think you will be fine with modifying your existing OPDA. The most effective option at this point is either the oil cup or oil bath. Both are essentially the same. Both are covered in the alternate design section of the first page.

Regarding oil, I use Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40. It is a mixed fleet oil for both diesel AND gasoline engines. I've used it for over a year. It is the only synthetic that I am aware of with the adequate ZDDP. This is described on the first page too.
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post #3191 of 5448 Old 05-14-2012, 09:00 PM
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Anybody see this last post today on the wranglerforum.com? http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/has-...ml#post2368501
Sounds and looks like something in the lines of what Stripperguy has in the works?
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post #3192 of 5448 Old 05-14-2012, 09:45 PM
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I pulled my oil cup modded OPDA today after 1000 miles. There is a slight amount of wear on the back side of the gear. The pics below show the most noticeable spots. The wear is on the opposite side of where I would expect it to be on the gear. I'll pull it again in another 1500 miles.



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post #3193 of 5448 Old 05-15-2012, 06:16 AM
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We are not alone!

Talking to another worker at the place I check my cam/crank timing I told him what I was doing and why. He said that the Ford Taurus 3.0 engine had a similar issue. A quick internet search showed a number of threads with people talking about squealing from the cam position sensor. Below is a link to a video and a forum discussion. Here is what some posters said about it.

Quote:
Replace it before it fails and drops the gear into the engine or seizes and stops turning the oil pump
Quote:
From what I can tell, the part that goes bad is an internal bearing, like a sleeve bearing. The shaft is poorly lubricated because of it's design. Oil is supposed to climb up and lubricate the bearing. I don't think they are rebuildable by the DIY'er. The gear is held in place with a pin. The bearing is pressed in.
Quote:
The squeaking is caused when the shaft binds up in the housing bearing. Looking at the design, Ford apparently did not provide any way for oil to reach the bearing. Yes, it has a hole in the housing in the area between the two block supports for oil to get into the bearing. However, the lower support blocks nearly all splash lubrication from the crankcase; this region of the housing was almost completely dry on the part I took out.

No wonder these parts fail after about 100K miles or so. I'm surprised they work that long without oil. Before I put the replacement in, I filled the hole into the bearing with as much oil as it would take and lubricated the gear.

A coworker suggested that the Vulcan block probably originally had a oil passage that directed oil into this region between the supports, and some bean counter took it out to save the $0.05 cost to drill it.

WHAT A SCREW UP. One would think that Ford, after 100 years in the business, would understand the importance of lubricating the distributor shaft, even when they take the distributor cap and rotor off of it and call it a camshaft syncronizer.
Forum Discussion



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post #3194 of 5448 Old 05-15-2012, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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That looks similar to the standard "after mod" wear we've seen. 1000 miles is really a very low mileage point. 5 or 10K would show a more representable wear pattern. I don't know if I would bother checking at 1500.
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post #3195 of 5448 Old 05-15-2012, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
In your case with 13K I wouldn't worry about the camshaft gear. We'll get that out of the way first. The OPDA gear is the wear gear so it is designed to wear faster since it's easier to repair.
I would caution against making such a blanket statement. My cam gear had significant and noticeable wear with only 9,300 miles on it. Both gears are only surface hardened a few microns and once that protective "layer" is gone, it's game on. The camshaft is stronger by the nature of what it is made from, but it is not impervious.

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