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Unread 05-10-2012, 05:13 AM   #3166
BlackThing2012
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Join Date: May 2012
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Hi guys,

To make it more international...greetings from Holland

Wanted for a long time a jeep.
Bought recently a Wrangler TJ, 2005 Sahara Edition with 39500km(about 26000miles), black, 33'' bfg ko, 4.0I6, 6spd, dana44 f/r(now 3.07 will go to 4.56).
Hoped to have bought a reliable, get you anywhere car.

Then i saw this thread,...sh*t
Well, bye to the warm fuzzy feeling.
Chrysler what where you thinking?, who drunk so much?,did you think it would blow over?

Have no problems yet with the opda.
Will pull him in the nearby future to inspect.

But i have a (maybe stupid or too obvious)question to this matter.
Seen the recent developments, like the porous bushing.
Is it wise to connect a oil mod to the factory grease hole
Is there space for a oil-hose?
That way everything will be lubed all the time(oil with some zddp).
And i don't need to drill another hole.
There is no pressure inside between the seals?So the oil just drips.

Also read about the zddp, got also my interest, started to read some more.
I am also convinced that the modern SM/SN oils have way too less zddp for these old style engines.
Have bought some cheap 5w40 full synthetic A3/B4 SM oil wich i will use in the first few oil changes(start with fullsync, later when engine has many km/ml change to semi), but i will put some zddp-additive in it.

I know some are looking for oils with high levels of zddp.
Found a cheap A3/B4 SL rated 10w40 Semi synthetic oil with, according to the spec sheet, 0,18%zinc and 0,18%Phosphorus.
For me, i think this is the highest of levels i will go, too much is also not good.
And who cares about the catalyc converter, now it will last for 100.000miles instead of 150.000miles. Except it is cheaper and easier to replace.
This oil is from Comma-oil.....Made by....Mobil
Click on detail, you can download the specs guide.
http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/index/6/24
Don't know if you can buy this in the US.

Too stripperguy;

Thank you for putting your personal time in this fix.
Feel we have the right guy on the right place.
If you can give us some solution/fix,...i will buy you a beer(or a bottle of Vodkamy wife is Polish)

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Unread 05-10-2012, 08:21 AM   #3167
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
I was refering to the stock seal below the top bushing.
Will that still be there?
I think you guys are talking about the same seal. There is only one, and if Stripper is removing it, that's the one. There is no need for a seal if the sealed roller bearing is there. It will act as the seal.
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Unread 05-10-2012, 08:32 AM   #3168
Bigbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I think you guys are talking about the same seal. There is only one, and if Stripper is removing it, that's the one. There is no need for a seal if the sealed roller bearing is there. It will act as the seal.
That's what I was hoping. It'd make a perfect platform for my flow through design. I have not been able to find a proper seal for the oddball shaft.
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Unread 05-10-2012, 09:25 AM   #3169
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Just figured I'd update that I got the engine back together the other day and fired instantly with the new cam, lifters and OPDG among other parts... I did the oil cup mod on the brand new unit and it literally only took a few drops of oil from a medicine dropper. After the initial 30 min break in on the cam after the fluid/filter change I checked the OPDG again and the seal inside. The cup had gone down a TINY bit which I suspect being from the running to fill the cavity. Definitely did it's job as under the plastic cap under the tone ring, it was clearly evident that the oil was getting the seal thoroughly as there was a slight amount of oil inside the main housing. Will monitor from here but hopefully this will last a while this time around. Was sure to coat everything thoroughly with the cam lube break-in gel stuff on all wear surfaces and especially on both the cam gear and the OPDG itself. Adding in the recommended 6 ounce of cam break in stuff with the oil changes and using the M1 turbo diesel truck fluid as it's local, and several bucks cheaper than what I'd been using. Will see how it holds up I guess.

Best of luck,

Mike
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Unread 05-11-2012, 10:49 PM   #3170
Pound
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My story:

Bought jeep at 43k. I was aware of this problem but I took the jeep on a 3000 mile road trip before I checked it out for myself. 500 miles into the trip on a cold morning I heard the laughing monkey and knew exactly what my problem was. It laughed at me the subsequent two mornings then stopped. I completed the trip without incident. I just tore it down tonight and replaced it with a new unit with the oilcup mod. I found a bushing and shaft with significant galling. There was also a deep score on the shaft at the lower part of the upper bushing. The oil pump tang also showed signs of binding. The gears on the cam and the opda also had significant wear but it was even and the teeth still have plenty of thickness. Pics below.
upper-bushing-wear.jpg   bushing-wear.jpg   gear-wear.jpg   tang-wear.jpg   oil-cup.jpg  

syringe.jpg   install.jpg  
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Unread 05-12-2012, 08:56 AM   #3171
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I don't remember seeing one with the shaft scored so badly. And, by the looks of the bushing, it's a real blessing it didn't seize up on you. The oil pump tang looks normal to me from what I've seen.

There's more wear on the gear than I'd like to see but I agree, appears to be even and the teeth seem to have plenty of thickness left. If the cam teeth are ok you should be fine with new, modded OPDA. Glad it got you home on the long trip. I'll bet those were some anxious moments when it was squealing, away from home like that!
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Unread 05-12-2012, 10:20 AM   #3172
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Yeah, I'm glad the jeep made it back in one piece. I fretted over this problem and read this thread a few times before the trip. I should have just fixed it. For other people that have this issue that would be my advice. Spend the $150 for a new opda and oilcup parts and just mod it. It's easy enough to do in one evening. A big thanks to all the contributors, especially willydigger and thefog.
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Unread 05-12-2012, 12:14 PM   #3173
RaggedOleMan
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My ODPA/CPS Symptoms
(Duplicate Post, because I feel it belongs in this thread)

Crap...I think I've overlooked the obvious...

As I posted earlier, my 2005 Jeep went in for the recall, and after their inspection they said mine was fine, so I never gave it another thought. As a result, I paid little attention to these ODPA threads.

That said, several years ago, 2 maybe 3 years ago, my Jeep started having this annoying "chirp". I would only hear it as I would come to a stop, and occasionally at initial start-up. The fan belt seemed like the logical source, so I swapped it out. When the chirp returned, I got an automotive stethoscope to try and isolate the source of the chirp. The darn chirp would never surface once I had the stethoscope on...whack-a-mole.

I listened to other possible suspects with the stethoscope, the alternator spinning, the power steering pump, the belt tensioner, the adjacent pulley, but not once would it chirp while I listened. The belt tensioner then became my focus, so I swapped it out. Chirp was still there. Whack-a-mole. I swapped out the adjacent pulley. Chirp was still there. Whack-a-mole. Some time later I began to have some minor to moderate cooling issues. I swapped out the radiator & water pump and thought maybe the chirp lived in the water pump and the problem would now be solved. It wasn't. Whack-a-mole. Cooling issues were resolved but the annoying chirp was still there. Infuriating.

Time passed and I began using an oil can with a long flexible hose to apply 10-30 motor oil to the alternator shaft, power steering shaft, and even to the fan clutch assembly shaft, where it comes out of the engine. Sometimes it seemed to make a difference, but rarely for very long.

Of course throughout these past several years I've also chased down what seems like an endless amount of clunks, squeaks, chirps sourced from control arms, bushings, TRE's, steering, drive shafts etc. With each repair/upgrade I was hopeful the other "chirp" might get resolved. Whack-a-mole always came back seemingly just to piss me off.

Then yesterday, after I first responded to this thread, the short circuited light bulb in my head finally made a connection...actually, this is good news to me, I'm going to get that friggin' mole once & for all...
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Unread 05-12-2012, 12:38 PM   #3174
LRod
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Whack-A-Mole!! Ha! Ha! Ha! Good one I've been there before.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 12:58 AM   #3175
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Finally finished reading this thread after I don't know how many hour or so long sessions. Actually, I probably read it twice with all of the re-reads of the parts I wanted to be clear on.
Anyway, I have a "new-to-me" 05' with 50k on it and has no obvious symptoms. I have not pulled the OPDA so I have no idea of its condition. That being said and considering a new OPDA is relatively cheap, I'm going to just swap my stocker out with a new, modded unit. I consider it cheap insurance and just look at the OPDA as a worn part that should just be changed... like a battery.

So who would be interested in performing the oil cup mod for me? Please PM me so we can discuss the details.

Thanks
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Unread 05-13-2012, 01:15 AM   #3176
keithert
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Willydigger did mine. He is great to work with.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 06:55 PM   #3177
RaggedOleMan
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Ordered a new one from Factory Mopar Parts:

$123.90 53010624AC
$ 2.12 Gasket/J3181288
$ 15.85 Shipping
$141.87 Total

Note, I broke the gear as I was re-assembling/installing the pin...be more careful than I.

Also, though the chirp has been evident for about 2-3 years, and the Jeep has 165k +/- on it, the wear didn't seem excessive to my untrained eye. Nonetheless, it's good I discovered the source of the chirp, bad that I broke the gear, good that replacements are on their way...
img_0060e-8x6.jpg   img_0061e-8x6.jpg   img_0062e-8x6.jpg   img_0001e-8x6.jpg  
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Unread 05-13-2012, 07:30 PM   #3178
RaggedOleMan
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I have a question for all you skilled, and informed mechanics out there: I pulled the unit consistent with the instructions within this thread, and it went text book perfect. That said, the engine was still warm when I did it, in fact the assembly was still quite warm once I had it removed. Anyway...

I drove out the pin and separated the shaft/ took pictures etc. My intention was only to inspect the shaft & gear, maybe apply a little grease to it, and decide whether or not to order new parts once I'd taken a close look at everything. As I went to reassemble it noticed the holes in the little gear wouldn't line up "exactly" on both sides. So, I started the pin on one side and tapped it through, and then....catastrophic failure on my part because I blew out the gear.

Why didn't the holes all line up? It came apart that way, no reason they shouldn't line up, is there? Heat? And/or is there a tool that compresses the pin prior to driving it in, or do you all squeeze it closed a bit before you insert it? Where'd I go wrong on this?

Signed,
Bafoon...

PS: Wushaw & Knucklehead...don't say it!
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Unread 05-13-2012, 07:48 PM   #3179
ChicagoRod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaggedOleMan View Post
I have a question for all you skilled, and informed mechanics out there: I pulled the unit consistent with the instructions within this thread, and it went text book perfect. That said, the engine was still warm when I did it, in fact the assembly was still quite warm once I had it removed. Anyway...

I drove out the pin and separated the shaft/ took pictures etc. My intention was only to inspect the shaft & gear, maybe apply a little grease to it, and decide whether or not to order new parts once I'd taken a close look at everything. As I went to reassemble it noticed the holes in the little gear wouldn't line up "exactly" on both sides. So, I started the pin on one side and tapped it through, and then....catastrophic failure on my part because I blew out the gear.

Why didn't the holes all line up? It came apart that way, no reason they shouldn't line up, is there? Heat? And/or is there a tool that compresses the pin prior to driving it in, or do you all squeeze it closed a bit before you insert it? Where'd I go wrong on this?

Signed,
Bafoon...

PS: Wushaw & Knucklehead...don't say it!
If you would have spun the gear on the shaft 180 degrees the holes would have lined up perfectly. The shaft hole is just a little off center so the gear can only go on one way.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 07:51 PM   #3180
RaggedOleMan
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Well, I won't make that mistake twice! Knock on wood...Thanks ChicagoRod/John
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