2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 209 - JeepForum.com
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post #3121 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 10:37 AM
stripperguy
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Here is a 3/4 section view of the OPDA with my intended components and modifications included. I have RFQ's for purchased parts, still need to produce detail drawings to get quotes for machined components. Short term will probably machine the 1st series of parts myself... not shown in the assembly is the thrust washer/bearing, drive gear, nor roll pin, no changes there at all.

Still need another week or two...



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post #3122 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 10:42 AM
flying_bosun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stripperguy
Here is a 3/4 section view of the OPDA with my intended components and modifications included. I have RFQ's for purchased parts, still need to produce detail drawings to get quotes for machined components. Short term will probably machine the 1st series of parts myself... not shown in the assembly is the thrust washer/bearing, drive gear, nor roll pin, no changes there at all.

Still need another week or two...
Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Clause!

I'm so happy I could cry...


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Paul
“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul
"Did you exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"
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post #3123 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
willydigger
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Looks very difficult to mod. I don't see an Average Joe pulling bushing and installing a sealed bearing.

What is the outer race of the bearing setting in?
Does the bearing prevent up/down travel of the shaft?

I look forward to seeing a completed prototype.


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post #3124 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 10:54 AM
BioTex
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Personally, I don't feel the gear wear is a result of too much friction at the upper bushing. I have pulled my OPDA with it at normal operating temp, and cold. It spins freely at both.
45K since new. I believe the wear is from the gears meshing together are not to the proper tolerances. Only other thing that would do it, would be if the metal was just too soft. Sure wish we had hardness test results. We could compare them to other cam/gear combinations.

Currently:
79 CJ7 "CJ Express" 4.2L, NV4500, D44 rear
69 800 with SBC, SM465, NP205, 14BT
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post #3125 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
Personally, I don't feel the gear wear is a result of too much friction at the upper bushing. I have pulled my OPDA with it at normal operating temp, and cold. It spins freely at both.
45K since new. I believe the wear is from the gears meshing together are not to the proper tolerances. Only other thing that would do it, would be if the metal was just too soft. Sure wish we had hardness test results. We could compare them to other cam/gear combinations.
Who knows, but what do you blame the laughing monkey sound on if the shaft isn't binding?
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post #3126 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ops5 View Post
Who knows, but what do you blame the laughing monkey sound on if the shaft isn't binding?
I'm not saying that they all spin freely! Obviously if a shaft is in a bind, then there will be more gear wear. What i'm saying is that how do you explain the gear wear if there is no shaft binding? There are two seperate issues at stake here. Yes, one may affect the other, but it doesn't have to.

Currently:
79 CJ7 "CJ Express" 4.2L, NV4500, D44 rear
69 800 with SBC, SM465, NP205, 14BT
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post #3127 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ops5 View Post
Who knows, but what do you blame the laughing monkey sound on if the shaft isn't binding?
There's often excessive gear wear without the monkey which is caused by binding. No binding means no monkey...


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Paul
“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul
"Did you exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"
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post #3128 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Are you sure O'reilly can't get it for you? I just saw it in one of their stores a couple days ago. I see it online on their site. I seem to remember it being higher price in the store. Here is a link:


http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/VLV0/RACE1030/N0425.oap?ck=Search_N0425_-1_3067&pt=N0425&ppt=C0162

Says "currently unavailable" on their website.

Found it here! http://www.jegs.com/p/Valvoline-Raci...61749/10002/-1 for $5.99

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84 CJ7, dang near stock - Daily Driver!
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post #3129 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
There's often excessive gear wear without the monkey which is caused by binding. No binding means no monkey...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
I'm not saying that they all spin freely! Obviously if a shaft is in a bind, then there will be more gear wear. What i'm saying is that how do you explain the gear wear if there is no shaft binding? There are two seperate issues at stake here. Yes, one may affect the other, but it doesn't have to.
Yep, you are both right. The whole thing is a mess

I've been following this thread for a while, and I still haven't gotten up the nerve to pull mine and check it. I did buy a new unit to mod, but i'm not sure which mod to do yet, grease or oil. I want to see what this new mod looks like.
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post #3130 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ops5 View Post
I've been following this thread for a while, and I still haven't gotten up the nerve to pull mine and check it. I did buy a new unit to mod, but i'm not sure which mod to do yet, grease or oil. I want to see what this new mod looks like.
Get the nerve, buddy. Take it from a cam loss victim, head in the sand ain't gonna save ya and it doesn't appear to matter which mod you choose (or at least it didn't).


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Paul
“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul
"Did you exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"
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post #3131 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ops5 View Post
Yep, you are both right. The whole thing is a mess

I've been following this thread for a while, and I still haven't gotten up the nerve to pull mine and check it. I did buy a new unit to mod, but i'm not sure which mod to do yet, grease or oil. I want to see what this new mod looks like.
I am starting to lean more and more to the grease zirk since it was found out that the bushings are porous.

Currently:
79 CJ7 "CJ Express" 4.2L, NV4500, D44 rear
69 800 with SBC, SM465, NP205, 14BT
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post #3132 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 02:09 PM
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Yeah, i know I need to check it. I'm really worried more about putting it back in, although the recent method shown turning the crankbolt with a wrench does seem to make it easy. I'll have to look at it again and just do it.

I thought the general consensus lately was the oil cup was better than grease?
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post #3133 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ops5 View Post
Yeah, i know I need to check it. I'm really worried more about putting it back in, although the recent method shown turning the crankbolt with a wrench does seem to make it easy. I'll have to look at it again and just do it.

I thought the general consensus lately was the oil cup was better than grease?
Oil cup is better than grease. Grease is better than factory. A porous bushing and oil are a perfect match.

Getting up the courage to do it yourself is very difficult. It is very simple. I think of it like riding a bike. Once you're up and on it, it is very simple. Pulling the OPDA is the same way. There is no trick or special training. If you can watch a video and follow directions you can pull it.


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post #3134 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stripperguy View Post
Here is a 3/4 section view of the OPDA with my intended components and modifications included. I have RFQ's for purchased parts, still need to produce detail drawings to get quotes for machined components. Short term will probably machine the 1st series of parts myself... not shown in the assembly is the thrust washer/bearing, drive gear, nor roll pin, no changes there at all.

Still need another week or two...

Great Job, look forward to the prototype!
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post #3135 of 5527 Old 05-01-2012, 02:59 PM
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Finally getting around to putting the engine back together. Just got a case of the turbo diesel truck stuff as it was all that was in stock local. Well two cases actually since there's only 6 to a case, but that means bigger discount which was nice.

So is there an exact parts list to do the oil cup with everything needed specifically to do the mod? I have the new cam and all new parts going in along with plenty of lube from Comp and the recommended bottle of break-in additive, think I have everything else covered to finally put it together, just need to know exactly what I need to buy to mod the OPDG (new) as well as the old for a backup and what exactly to make this "oil cup".

Thanks,

Best of Luck,

Mike
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