2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 204 - JeepForum.com

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post #3046 of 5448 Old 04-24-2012, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lope View Post
Did you plug the wires to the sensor back in? Ask me how I know this can happen!
This is what I thought.

If you did everything right, then maybe its something else.

Did you use the sharpie or adjust to TDC?

Try moving the housing a bit clockwise and if that doesn't work counter-clockwise? I've done plenty of installs and I can't imagine you would be off that much without knowing it.

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post #3047 of 5448 Old 04-24-2012, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy2169 View Post
Jeep won't start. Everything went back together correctly. Marks were lined up adn everything. Turns over, just won't start.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy2169 View Post
Yes. It wants to start just wont stay on.
Well, I wager you got it off a tad. Loosen the bolt and move the housing ever so little and try starting it again. You may need to fiddle with it a while turning it one way then the other. Good luck. Next time you pull the unit line up the timing holes in the wheel and housing first and you should have no issues. The way to do that is one a video on page 1

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #3048 of 5448 Old 04-24-2012, 06:56 PM
chevy2169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
This is what I thought.

If you did everything right, then maybe its something else.

Did you use the sharpie or adjust to TDC?

Try moving the housing a bit clockwise and if that doesn't work counter-clockwise? I've done plenty of installs and I can't imagine you would be off that much without know it.
I used the sharpie method. Followed all the steps to the T. I thought it was a sensor issue too after reading a few posts here so I went outside and double checked my connections. No difference. So i decided to rip it all apart again and start from square one. Took your advice and rotated the housing a bit after using a screwdriver to turn the oil pump thingy. Hooked everything back up after two attempts and it fired right up.

As far as the OPDA looked, there was no scoring, excessive heat build up, or any abrasions on it. The teeth on both the OPDA shaft and the cam looked good, no wear signs whatsoever. In a couple months when I have the money I may do what a previous poster said and buy a new one and ship it to you for a mod (paying you of course) if your ok with that. Just for peace of mind with this issue.

Some say a comet will fall from the sky.
Followed by meteor showers and tidal waves.
Followed by faultlines that cannot sit still.
Followed by millions of dumbfounded dip****s.
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post #3049 of 5448 Old 04-24-2012, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy2169 View Post
I used the sharpie method. Followed all the steps to the T. I thought it was a sensor issue too after reading a few posts here so I went outside and double checked my connections. No difference. So i decided to rip it all apart again and start from square one. Took your advice and rotated the housing a bit after using a screwdriver to turn the oil pump thingy. Hooked everything back up after two attempts and it fired right up.

As far as the OPDA looked, there was no scoring, excessive heat build up, or any abrasions on it. The teeth on both the OPDA shaft and the cam looked good, no wear signs whatsoever. In a couple months when I have the money I may do what a previous poster said and buy a new one and ship it to you for a mod (paying you of course) if your ok with that. Just for peace of mind with this issue.
Did you get any pics? Assuming everything looks good, you should be able to clean up the old one and use it.
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post #3050 of 5448 Old 04-24-2012, 07:20 PM
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No pics. Don't have a camera at the moment. Next time I pull it I'll see if I can use my wifes phone.

Some say a comet will fall from the sky.
Followed by meteor showers and tidal waves.
Followed by faultlines that cannot sit still.
Followed by millions of dumbfounded dip****s.
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post #3051 of 5448 Old 04-25-2012, 07:59 AM
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Ready to put in my new OPDA that was modded by Willydigger Thanks for the help!!!!!

If anyone needs the mod and doesn't want to do it themselves and if he is willing to do it.... go for it!!!

Anyway.. I have reviewed the vids and all the info multiple times but still have a question about installing the new unit.

My process is going to be using the timing hole alignment method on the first page. It will be easy to line up the holes, spin the casing to remove the hold down, but my question is this...

When i have the holes lined up, unit ready to remove, as I pull up, the upper wheel will spin slightly because of the gear so the holes will no longer be aligned. The new unit has the alignment pin already installed but the top wheel will spin when i slide it into place. So now the new unit is in, but the holes are not lined up. Can I just use the ratchet to turn the engine over until they are properly aligned agian? I guess i don't really see the purpose of the alignment pin when it has to turn to be seated correctly???

Am i missing something obvious?
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post #3052 of 5448 Old 04-25-2012, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoveBikr View Post
...
My process is going to be using the timing hole alignment method on the first page. It will be easy to line up the holes, spin the casing to remove the hold down, but my question is this...

When i have the holes lined up, unit ready to remove, as I pull up, the upper wheel will spin slightly because of the gear so the holes will no longer be aligned. The new unit has the alignment pin already installed but the top wheel will spin when i slide it into place. So now the new unit is in, but the holes are not lined up. Can I just use the ratchet to turn the engine over until they are properly aligned agian? I guess i don't really see the purpose of the alignment pin when it has to turn to be seated correctly???

Am i missing something obvious?
The alignment pin will place the target wheel position at the sensor exactly where it needs to be for TDC. So you can leave the pin in and rotate the entire housing (since it's now locked to the OPDA shaft) or you can remove the pin and allow the shaft to rotate while holding the housing. If you choose to allow the shaft to spin, once installed turn the housing to match the target wheel (align the holes) then tighten it down. You don't need to turn the engine (then moving the shaft) to align the holes. The important part is the target wheel and sensor location.

If the holes are aligned before removal of the old unit, you should be able to install a new one and align the holes. The alignment pin takes away any slack or backlash. There is no wiggle that you may get with an allen key or screwdriver.

Leaving the alignment pin in during removal or install makes it a little harder to access the hold down bolt. That said, if your holes are aligned when you remove the old one, the target wheel is positioned correctly at the sensor. When you put it a new one, if the holes are aligned again the target wheel is again in the right position for TDC.
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post #3053 of 5448 Old 04-25-2012, 08:24 AM
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On the existing OPDA rotate the engine so that the hole in the wheel is above the hole in the housing and put a allen wrench through both. When the new OPDA goes in do the same thing with it. That way the wheel remains in the same position that is was in.

Current: 2005 Wrangler Unlimited - Past: 90 and 92 Trackers and 98 Wrangler SE
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post #3054 of 5448 Old 04-25-2012, 08:40 AM
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ok, got it. makes sense.

As long as holes are aligned before removal i can either...
1. put in alignment pin and rotate assembly as i remove or
2. align holes and allow target wheel to spin as i remove.

After out and putting in the new modded OPDA i can...
1. leave alignment pin in and rotate entire assembly or
2. remove pin and later align housing to mach target wheel before tightening.

End result is... as long as the holes are lined back up at the end it does not matter which method you use (rotate assembly with pin in, or rotate housing afterward with pin out)

Doing it this afternoon... will take pics of opda when removed. i have laughing monkey so it should be interesting.
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post #3055 of 5448 Old 04-25-2012, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoveBikr View Post
My process is going to be using the timing hole alignment method on the first page. It will be easy to line up the holes, spin the casing to remove the hold down, but my question is this...

When i have the holes lined up, unit ready to remove, as I pull up, the upper wheel will spin slightly because of the gear so the holes will no longer be aligned. The new unit has the alignment pin already installed but the top wheel will spin when i slide it into place. So now the new unit is in, but the holes are not lined up. Can I just use the ratchet to turn the engine over until they are properly aligned agian? I guess i don't really see the purpose of the alignment pin when it has to turn to be seated correctly???

Am i missing something obvious?
It matters not that the wheel turns when you pull in out. The wheel has to turn as the gear is cut that way. Just align the holes by turning the engine with a wrench and once the holes are lined up you are good to go. You don't need to leave in a pin or whatever to keep the holes lined up to remove or re-install. Just make sure the holes are lined up before you tighten the housing clamp. The housing may be clocked a little different when you re-install if it's off a tooth on the gear. That matters not as long as the holes are lined up. If you don't like the way the the housing is clocked, remove the unit and turn the oil pump slot with a long screwdriver in the direction you'd rather have the housing clocked.
Line up the holes before you loosen the housing clamp and remove the unit and line up the holes again before you tighten up the holes when installing.
Make sure the engine does not turn while the unit is out!

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #3056 of 5448 Old 04-25-2012, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoveBikr View Post
ok, got it. makes sense.

As long as holes are aligned before removal i can either...
1. put in alignment pin and rotate assembly as i remove or
2. align holes and allow target wheel to spin as i remove.

After out and putting in the new modded OPDA i can...
1. leave alignment pin in and rotate entire assembly or
2. remove pin and later align housing to mach target wheel before tightening.

End result is... as long as the holes are lined back up at the end it does not matter which method you use (rotate assembly with pin in, or rotate housing afterward with pin out)

Doing it this afternoon... will take pics of opda when removed. i have laughing monkey so it should be interesting.
That's exactly right. I can't wait to see pics. Are you going to disassemble the shaft from the housing? I'd love to see the upper bushing and shaft area.
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post #3057 of 5448 Old 04-25-2012, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
That's exactly right. I can't wait to see pics. Are you going to disassemble the shaft from the housing? I'd love to see the upper bushing and shaft area.
yes... OPDA porn to come later
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post #3058 of 5448 Old 04-25-2012, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
It matters not that the wheel turns when you pull in out. The wheel has to turn as the gear is cut that way. Just align the holes by turning the engine with a wrench and once the holes are lined up you are good to go. You don't need to leave in a pin or whatever to keep the holes lined up to remove or re-install. Just make sure the holes are lined up before you tighten the housing clamp. The housing may be clocked a little different when you re-install if it's off a tooth on the gear. That matters not as long as the holes are lined up. If you don't like the way the the housing is clocked, remove the unit and turn the oil pump slot with a long screwdriver in the direction you'd rather have the housing clocked.
Line up the holes before you loosen the housing clamp and remove the unit and line up the holes again before you tighten up the holes when installing.
Make sure the engine does not turn while the unit is out!
thanks
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post #3059 of 5448 Old 04-25-2012, 11:31 AM
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going to do the switch right after work. pulled the cover and have the holes aligned right now. very worried what i will find. there was actually dirt/dust under the cover.... doesn't seem like that is a good thing..

going to loosen it up and pull it in about 45 min.
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post #3060 of 5448 Old 04-25-2012, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoveBikr View Post
going to do the switch right after work. pulled the cover and have the holes aligned right now. very worried what i will find. there was actually dirt/dust under the cover.... doesn't seem like that is a good thing..

going to loosen it up and pull it in about 45 min.
Dust and dirt under the cover is normal as the wheel area of the housing is not sealed. You may also have some grease and actual bushing material in there as well. Once you pull it if the pinion gear looks real bad, which it may, make sure and check the cam gear real good. The issue is the top bushing is not lubed, it starts to drag and makes that laughing monkey noise you hear. The added drag of the bushing puts added load on the pinion gear causing it to wear. The cam gear is much larger and the pinion will wear first.

Hopefully your cam gear looks okay.

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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